Pepper is a everyone’s favorite crop and mostly grown in greenhouses. In our climatic conditions, growing peppers by sowing them immediately in open ground means dooming yourself to wasted labor. Planting and caring for pepper seedlings - this will be discussed further.

This is not to say that growing peppers is very difficult. However, without knowing some of the features on good harvest can hardly be counted on.

What you need to know:

1. Bell pepper picky about soil composition and temperature.
2. The ripening period is determined by the characteristics of the variety.
3. Young peppers have weak roots that easily tear and break, so it is advisable to grow peppers without picking.
4. Regular watering is very important. It makes no sense to rely only on precipitation.
5. Pepper is a self-pollinating crop. If the sweet pepper’s “neighbor” turns out to be a spicy “relative,” then the sweetness of the fruit will not be preserved. Therefore, it is not recommended to plant bitter and sweet pepper varieties in the same greenhouse.

This information will help you understand the slight “moody” of this plant. But for all its demandingness, pepper remains one of the most relevant crops due to its usefulness and taste qualities. It is successfully grown by gardeners, no matter what. Let's understand together how to grow peppers correctly.

How to grow pepper seedlings?

The entire process of growing peppers is not so labor-intensive as it is meticulous in terms of following the recommendations. The preparatory steps are very important here and should not be omitted. Next, everything is in order.

Preparing seeds for planting

Seeds of any variety of pepper are considered difficult to germinate by gardeners. If they are not properly prepared, the germination process will be shorter and they will not be as friendly; in addition, the pecking process itself will be delayed by 5-7 days.

Given the Russian short summer and fairly cool autumn, this missed week can have a negative impact on the entire harvest. That is why special attention will have to be paid to the preparation of seeds.

Important! Unprepared seeds germinate unevenly. The first shoots will begin to appear only after 2-3 weeks. But the treated seeds will sprout vigorously on the 7th day.

The steps for preparing seeds at home are as follows:

1. Calibration This stage is especially important for those who plan to sow with their own hands. collected seeds. Seed selection is carried out by eye. All small, deformed, empty seeds should be removed. Select only large, undamaged specimens for sowing.
2. Packaging by grade. This stage is only important for those who grow several different varieties pepper To avoid mixing them up, after calibration, pack the seeds of each variety separately in personal gauze bags. Attach a label with the name of the variety to the bags.
3. Disinfection. There is no need to use any newfangled methods (dusting with complex chemical compositions, etc.). Use a long-tested method - potassium permanganate. Soak the seeds in its rich purple warm solution for 20 minutes.
4. Flushing. After removing the potassium permanganate from the solution, rinse the seeds with warm water until the water becomes clear. Within 20 minutes of being in disinfectant solution the seeds will acquire a dark brown color, but potassium permanganate will not have time to penetrate inside and kill the embryo, but will only create a protective shell that prevents microbes from penetrating into the embryo.
5. Warming up. This stage will promote good seed germination. Warm the seeds at a temperature of +40-45° C (no more and no less than extreme values!). It is best to do this in a thermos or in a slow cooker on low. The second way is to place the seeds in a container with a lid and then place them on heating device, however in in this case It will be difficult to control the temperature. Seeds must be heated for at least 2 hours.
6. Stimulation. This final preparatory stage designed to enhance germination energy. In order to stimulate germination, pepper seeds are soaked again, but in nutrient solution. Any growth stimulant (for example, epin, which is sold in specialized stores), aloe juice, ash in combination with boric acid, and trace elements can act as a stimulant. As a last resort, leave the seeds for a day in a warm place on a saucer in a wet cloth. Note! It is important here to ensure that all the moisture does not leave; If the seeds dry out, they will not sprout at all.

Preparing the substrate for the greenhouse

Good, strong, healthy pepper seedlings will grow only on fertile soil, so be especially careful when preparing the substrate.

Garden soil is not very suitable for this purpose, especially if it is heavy, clayey and acidic. There are a lot of recipes for preparing soil mixtures.

For example, it is good to use a mixture that consists of the following components:

• humus - 3 parts;
• turf soil or peat – 3 parts;
• medium-grained sand - 1 part.

Add another glass to the bucket of this substrate wood ash.

Some gardeners, especially beginners, purchase special soil in stores to avoid possible risks. In this case, the risk of developing diseases in pepper seedlings is minimized.

Sowing pepper seeds for seedlings under film

To grow peppers in glass stationary greenhouses, seeds must be sown in early March. In mobile film greenhouses sowing begins only after March 15th.

Before sowing, prepare the seedling soil. You need to prepare the soil for seedlings at least 2 weeks before sowing the seeds. And you should definitely disinfect every element of the soil mixture.

The soil for seedlings should have the following composition:

• garden soil;
• black peat;
• pressed peat;
• mineral fertilizer;
• wood ash;
• humus or compost.

There are several nuances that a gardener needs to know:

1. The soil cannot be taken from the bed where potatoes or tomatoes grew in the previous season.
2. The humus should be sufficiently ripe (black, loose, smells like earth, not rot).
3. The presence of wood ash and fertilizers is required.

Important! Do not sow pepper seeds in ready-made peat from the store.

Containers for seedlings

The container requirements for growing pepper seedlings are not very high.

Allowed for use:

• plastic or wooden boxes;
• packages of dairy or juice products;
• plastic or clay pots;
• cups of yogurt or sour cream;
• shoe boxes, etc.

Important! All containers must have holes made in the bottom. Agloporite or medium-fraction moss is placed on the holes, then a layer of soil is poured.

Sowing

Fill the containers almost to the top nutritious soil. For final disinfection, water the soil with a weak solution (pinkish tint) of potassium permanganate. At a distance of 3 cm in a pot or box, make mini-holes the size of the phalanx of your index finger.

Don't water the soil anymore. Place the sprouted seeds in a hole to a depth of 1.5 cm, sprinkle with dry soil and place in trays with water in a bright and warm place. Place a label with the name of the variety next to each variety.

There is a week left before friendly shoots appear. The air temperature should be between +24 °C - +26 °C. It is in this temperature range with moderate humidity that the first seedlings of pepper will hatch most quickly.

How to care for seedlings?

After a week, when friendly shoots appear, you can transfer the seedlings to another, cooler room. Subsequent maintenance of seedlings for 2 weeks should occur at a temperature of +16 °C - 18 °C.

Note! The maximum time for pepper sprouts to appear is 12 days. If during this time the shoots have not appeared, nothing further will come of it. Feel free to sow something else in the boxes.

Lighting

March seedlings must be illuminated. LED bulbs, phytolamps, daylight sources - use any lighting that does not harm plants.

Only the emerging shoots are illuminated around the clock. Weekly sprouts - three times a day. After another week, leave the backlight on only for 6 hours every day, 4 hours in the morning and 2 hours in the evening.

Watering

The first week the sprouts do not need watering. If the soil dries out, it is enough to sprinkle only the top layer with water. Then watering is carried out every 3 days with warm, settled water.

Picking

Peppers are afraid of picking, so this is not recommended. Let them grow quietly in a glass or box, forming a strong root ball until planting in a greenhouse.

Top dressing

Every second watering is carried out with water with ash dissolved in it. It is advisable to feed the seedlings with liquid mineral fertilizer, bird droppings or mullein. Dilute bird droppings in hot water in a ratio of 1:20, mullein in a ratio of 1:10. Mineral complex fertilizer(1 teaspoon of dry granules or powder) is diluted in 5 liters of water.

Hardening

2 weeks before planting in greenhouse soil, the seedlings are hardened off. For this purpose, first open the window in the room for 2-3 hours during the day, then gradually increase the intervals of receiving air baths up to taking the boxes out into the air.

Transplantation into the ground

Plant on permanent place plants are 25-30 cm in height, with 12-14 leaves, thick stems, in the stage of forming the first ovary.

The daily temperature should be at +15-18°C.

It is better to plant seedlings in the evening, after the heat has subsided, for better acclimatization. At night temperatures young plant easier to settle in. Add peat and humus to the soil in advance, dig with a shovel, and level the ground. Pour 1 tablespoon of mineral fertilizer into each hole. Handle the seedlings without disturbing the integrity of the earthen clod.

When transplanting plants into the greenhouse soil, bury the plants down to the cotyledon leaves and pinch the central root. Water thoroughly and mulch with peat or loose soil.

Note! To avoid the growth of green mass, do not overuse nitrogen fertilizers. If you notice this trend, lower the air temperature and reduce watering.

Further care

Main principles of aftercare:

• timely watering;
• garter;
• weeding;
• feeding

After planting, water the peppers every 2-3 days at the root, spending up to 2 liters of water per bush. In hot weather, water the plants daily. During harvest, water in the morning and evening every 5-6 days.

During the season, apply 3-4 fertilizing with chicken manure (1:10) and mineral fertilizers.

In hot and at the same time humid weather, cut off the lower side shoots. But during drought it is better to refrain from this procedure: the leaf mass will retain moisture in the soil.

Plants are pruned every 10 days: remove excess branches inside the crown and shorten the longest shoots.

To attract pollinating insects, you can spray the flowers with a sugar solution or hang jars of honey around the plants.

An important part of care is careful loosening of the soil and mulching with rotted hay. This will reduce the frequency of watering to once every 10 days. The soil should be loosened shallowly, up to 10 cm, after rain or watering. During the flowering period, hilling is carried out, and then the plants are tied up.

Harvest fruits immediately after ripening to encourage new crops to emerge.

Protect from pests by treating the bush with wood ash (a glass of ash per bucket of water). A tincture of garlic, tansy, wormwood and yarrow works well against aphids and spider mites.

Pepper, as you can see, is a capricious, but grateful culture. If the care is correct, then the harvest will be rich.

Of all the types of pepper, Tyumen residents (as well as other Russians) most liked sweet pepper, which is also called Bulgarian (apparently because it was originally brought from there to our country).

This plant is distinguished by its many bright colors (pepper can be yellow, red, orange, green) and can decorate any dish. In addition, it is juicy, tasty, filled with many vitamins and nutrients.

Most gardeners have already planted peppers in greenhouses, so the remaining seedlings can be safely planted directly into the soil, advises a professor at the State Agrarian University of the Northern Trans-Urals Lyudmila Lyashcheva. - To beneficial features When growing crops, do not lose them, but increase them, adhere to the following rules.

Landing algorithm

Place the seedlings in the holes at the same depth at which the peppers grew in the seedling box, in no case exposing the roots or digging in the root collar.

Pepper refers to heat-loving crops. He won't like cold soil, so pamper him: build one for his place of residence. raised beds, which it is advisable to raise 25-55 centimeters above the ground.

An interesting experience is growing pepper in straw bales (as they once did at the Prigorodny state farm).

Don’t forget: peppers are susceptible to cross-pollination, so if you like several varieties to grow on your site, try to place them as far as possible from each other. It’s good if you separate hedge varieties in the form of tall tomatoes, corn or sunflowers.

Pepper care

It includes regular watering, gartering, weeding and fertilizing. The first “feeding” must be carried out in the phase of 1-2 true leaves; for this, 0.5 g of ammonium nitrate, 1 g of potassium fertilizer and 3 g of superphosphate are mixed in a liter of water. The second feeding - two weeks after the first, with a dose mineral fertilizers in the "recipe" you need to double it.

• Pepper contains much more vitamin C than, for example, lemon. It is also rich in vitamins P, A, and B vitamins. In addition to them, pepper contains quite a lot minerals, compounds of zinc, iron, phosphorus, not large quantities There is even iodine (so necessary for Siberians and northerners).

A Bulgarian friend will be very grateful if you pamper him with nettle infusion (for one part of nettle - 10 parts of water, let the infusion stand for a couple of days).

Before harvesting, it is advisable to fertilize peppers three times with chicken manure (1:10), alternating such fertilizing with foliar fertilizing. For the latter, use mineral fertilizers. Nitrophoska (tbsp per bucket of water) is perfect.

If it is hot outside and it rains frequently, pinion the pepper (remove side shoots), especially the lower shoots. And vice versa, if the sun burns relentlessly, but it is dry, the plants do not shoot, since the leaf mass perfectly protects against moisture evaporation.

During the growing season, peppers need to be pruned several times, trying to shorten the longest shoots so that there are no shaded branches. Be sure to remove all pepper shoots below the main fork of its stem, as well as branches inside the crown. Perform pruning once every seven to ten days and after harvesting the fruits. Simultaneously with pruning, soil cultivation is also carried out. Lure pollinating insects into the garden by spraying the peppers with a sugar solution during flowering: per liter hot water take 100 g sugar and 2 g boric acid. Plants also respond well to fertilizing with liquid organic fertilizers.

If you are not happy with frequent watering, you can reduce the amount: mulch the pepper with rotted straw. In this case, you will need a watering can no more than once every 10 days.

Don’t forget about tying up the plants, which is done after hilling and mulching.

Pests and diseases

To drive away the mole cricket, about an hour before placing the pepper seedlings in the holes, fill them with water.

During the season, the vegetable must be pollinated at least 3 times using wood ash - preferably with dew.

Aphids do not tolerate whey: dilute one and a half liters in a bucket of water, then dust the pepper with sifted wood ash.

Sometimes summer residents complain that peppers do not produce buds. This occurs from overfeeding plants with nitrogen fertilizers: not necessarily mineral, but also organic, including manure or infusion of nettles and other weeds. By the way, fresh manure is generally contraindicated for peppers.

workshop

• With a lack of potassium, the pepper leaves curl and a drying border appears on them.
• If a plant lacks nitrogen, its leaves become dull and, acquiring a grayish tint, gradually become smaller.
• When there is little phosphorus, the underside of pepper leaves turns deep purple, and the leaves themselves are pressed closer to the trunk of the plant and rise up.
• If there is not enough magnesium, the leaves become marbled, and excess nitrogen in the soil leads to the dropping of pepper ovaries and flowers.

Another trouble: the pepper blooms, but does not form ovaries. This most often affects warm-season peppers, because high temperatures and high humidity air interferes with normal pollination. The same can happen with severe cold weather. In this case, drugs to improve pollination, for example, Bud or Ovary, will help.

Regulate the temperature: depending on the weather, either ventilate the greenhouse or, conversely, turn on the heating.

During prolonged cold weather (which often characterizes the Siberian summer), sharply reduce watering: then the peppers will not get sick. Also, in cool weather, give your plants foliar feeding on the leaves with any available preparation (Rostkom, Epin-extra, Zircon, etc.).

Pepper is one type of vegetable that no holiday can do without. Bell peppers are always present on the table in the form of slices or a hot dish, and sweet peppers are present on the winter table in the form of preparations for the winter. But few people know how grow peppers in open ground on summer cottage. This vegetable is very finicky and requires good care to yourself, but every novice gardener dreams of trying to grow it on his own plot.

Bell pepper and sweet pepper seedlings

Growing such a vegetable has its pros and cons; if there is an error with watering, sudden changes in temperature, or improper transplantation, the yield decreases to almost zero.

Damaged plants will no longer produce what they want. harvest in a short summer, since without tying there will be no pollination, and without this the plant will receive less nutrition and thus will not produce the long-awaited harvest in the fall.

But in order for it to grow and please you with its harvest, you need to plant it very early and ensure seedlings and development without stress and temperature changes. This the most important rule when growing sweet peppers in open ground.

The most important points in sowing bell peppers are:

• Preparing seeds for sowing;
• preparing soil for sowing peppers;
• sowing seeds;
• picking peppers.

It is better to consider each procedure separately so as not to miss or make mistakes.

Preparing seeds for seedlings for growing peppers in open ground

Purchased seeds need to be examined and any frail or damaged ones removed. Good seeds it is necessary to treat a fungal infection.

To do this, you need to put the seeds in gauze, like in a bag, and place them in a thick solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes. After this procedure, rinse with warm, running water.

There is another good way for good bell pepper shoots - this is Eline’s solution. You need to place a gauze bag in a solution of 1 drop of Eline, diluted with 1 liter of water and leave for one day.

After all these procedures, plant the seeds on a damp cloth and cover with wet gauze. In this form, the seeds should be placed in a warm place for one week, but if the seeds have not swelled, you can wait another week.

The main thing is not to leave the seeds dry, they must be moistened, otherwise the seeds will dry out and disappear.

Preparing soil for planting

For sowing, you can buy ready-made soil in a specialized store. and only add one fifth of the washed sand.

You don’t need to add anything to the finished soil, because it already contains:

High ground;

• deoxidizing additives;
• mineral fertilizer;
• Hesminic substances;
• sand;
• agropermit.

To understand why the soil needs them, it is better to know all the additives in detail.

The raised soil is practically germ-free and absorbs moisture well; all plants cannot do without this additive.

Deoxidizing additives are needed to remove high acidity from topsoil.

Mineral fertilizer provides mineral nutrition and promotes plant growth.

Hesminic substances are needed to stimulate root formation, as well as plant stability.

Sand reduces soil shrinkage during long-term cultivation of plants. Usually sand is needed in large quantities for home flowers in pots.

Agropermite saturates the roots with oxygen and promotes their good growth and nourishes them with substances necessary for growth.

Experienced gardeners They don’t buy soil, but make it themselves at home. To do this, you only need two parts humus, one part sand and two parts peat. Mix everything well and heat in the oven for about one hour. In this way, the soil will be ready for planting seeds.

Sowing seeds

Seed ripening occurs 10 or 14 days after germination, and it is better to plant seedlings when it is 60 days old. Therefore, it is better to sow in mid-February when the daylight hours are still short.

Before you start planting, you need to rinse the die well in a potassium permanganate solution, and then fill it with the prepared soil mixture. Lightly compact the soil so that the bowl is two centimeters higher than the soil.

Make a hole and carefully spread the seeds at a distance of 1.5 cm. Then cover the seeds with the prepared soil and compact them.

Water warm water, just be careful not to wash out the seeds. To prevent moisture from evaporating, you need to close it with a special lid, and if you don’t have such a lid, you can use a regular plastic bag.

The seeds need to be placed in a warm place where the air temperature is about 17 degrees. Be sure to water with warm water and not let the soil dry out, but you also shouldn’t overwater it.

Be sure to watch the pepper seedlings so that they do not bend. To avoid this, you need to turn one by one towards the sun. You can also do it over seedlings

How to bake correctly

To reduce the risk of root rot damage to plants, peppers are replanted when the plant has two leaves.

But it is better to replant after 4 weeks, when the seedlings are stronger and more resistant to stressful conditions and the stems of the pepper seedlings are already stronger.

Before transplanting the seedlings, you need to water it well and wait for the excess water to drain.

It grows and develops more slowly than tomatoes and therefore it is better to transplant it into separate small pots.

Fill half of the pot with pre-prepared soil, make a hole and place the pepper seedlings, cover with soil and lightly compact. Carefully pour warm water, holding the stems, and if the soil has settled, then add prepared soil, but not too much. The peppers should be halfway in the pot, not completely covered.

Place such seedlings in a warm and well-lit room.

How to feed seedlings

Caring for seedlings should begin after the peppers are transplanted into open ground at their summer cottage.

First bait is given after two weeks after diving and two weeks after the first feeding. While the plant is young, it is better and very convenient to apply fertilizer in liquid form. You can buy it at a flower shop and it is best to choose:

• Agricola;
• Get stronger;
• Fertika;
• Luxury;
• Mortar

How to properly dilute the fertilizer for peppers will be written in the instructions for use.

Two weeks before planting bell peppers in regular soil at a summer cottage, you need to harden the seedlings in the open fresh air.

But you need to take into account one necessary part of open air: direct sunlight should not hit the peppers, but there should also be no cold and strong wind.

Most the best option For hardening, a closed balcony with a non-sunny side is suitable.

Grow seedlings in peat tablets

There is another great way for pepper seedlings - peat tablets. Peat tablets give excellent results, and a plant that experiences stress during a dive can no longer be afraid, so like this procedure with a peat tablet no need to do it.

The peat tablet contains all the necessary additives for the development of pepper and with the help of such a wonderful tablet you can grow good seedlings even for novice gardeners.

Seedlings still need to be grown in separate pots therefore, peat tablets can be taken with a diameter of three centimeters.

Place the required amount of peat tablets on the tray and fill them with warm water. As the tablets swell, they enlarge and take on the shape of a cup.

As soon as the peat tablet swells to the right size and stops absorbing water, you need to drain the excess water and make a small hole in the cups

Pepper seeds should be prepared in the same way as when sown in the soil. This must also be done in advance. The seeds must be carefully placed in the holes and sprinkled with prepared soil. Cover the tray with a lid or put on a plastic bag.

Pepper planting and care in open ground

Peppers do not like cold and heavy soil, and if the site has clay soil, then better cultivation bell peppers in open ground need to be fertilized with peat and humus.

The soil needs to be dug well onto the bayonet of a shovel and level it well with a rake so that there are no large lumps. After this, make not very deep holes for planting, but you don’t need to make very frequent holes either.

Before planting, you need to put a little mineral fertilizer in each hole, which will contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. This composition must be mixed well until smooth.

Carefully remove the seedling from the pot, being careful not to damage the root system of the pepper. Place the seedlings in the hole and cover half hole in the ground. You need to fall asleep so that all root system the seedling was closed.

Water generously with warm water and the water will be absorbed, cover the entire hole with dry soil.

If the plant is tall and requires staking, then it is worth tying the peppers to a special support. If the nights are still cold, then you need to cover the sweet peppers with polyethylene meadows, but you cannot cover them with woven covering material.

Caring for peppers in open ground

For outdoor cultivation to be carried out proper care there are four rules:

1. Feeding.
2. Watering.
3. Prophet.
4. Garters.

Feeding. During growth and cultivation, it is necessary to feed three times. The first feeding after 10 days after planting in ordinary soil can be fed with ordinary manure.

The second feeding is done before flowering. Feed with woodgrass or superphosphate. To do this, dilute potassium humate with 10 liters of water. Pour this solution over the peppers.

The third feeding should occur two weeks after flowering. Feed the tree hall. You can also feed sweet peppers with nettle solution. To do this, you need to cut the nettles into small pieces and add warm water. Leave this solution for several days, and then pour over the peppers.

Watering. Sweet peppers love moisture, but too much pepper is very harmful. Therefore, you need to water sweet peppers as the soil dries out.

Prophet. Light and fluffy soil gives good growth plants. It is imperative to ensure that the peppers are not overgrown with grass, and be sure to loosen the soil near the peppers.

How to properly grow peppers in open ground and provide care? Sweet peppers are a southern crop and require warmth and humidity. IN middle lane, pepper in open ground grown through seedlings and using greenhouses. To grow the desired crop, you need special care.

Pepper grows well in open ground in the middle zone

Soil preparation

Growing peppers in open ground requires competent preparation land.

Sweet peppers grow better in open ground in places with a mild climate and in areas where there is more sun and less wind. To protect from the wind, make a shield from plants or build a fence.

When growing peppers in open areas, it is important to understand after which crops it is more effective to grow peppers.

It is better to plant peppers in the place where cabbage, pumpkin, cucumbers, legumes, and table root vegetables grew. In places with a previous harvest of tomatoes, eggplants, and potatoes, it is not recommended to plant peppers for three years, since diseases of these vegetables spread through the ground.

The soil allocated for pepper should be characterized by fertility that retains moisture. The soil begins to be prepared in the fall. When harvesting in the fall, you need to carefully collect the remains of the previous crop and dig up the ground. They also fertilize the soil, enriching it with the following substances (per 1 square meter):

• superphosphate in a volume of 30-50 g;
• wood ash - 50-80 g;
• humus - from 5 to 10 kg.

In places where they have been fertilized with fresh manure, sweet peppers cannot be planted, since there is no need for organic fresh fertilizer. Too much nitrogen in the soil causes active growth vegetative parts of pepper, and the ovary is poorly preserved, which affects the yield.

In the fall, the place where they plan to place the pepper is dug deep. In spring, the soil is loosened and fed with fertilizers containing phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen. The ground is slightly dug up and leveled before planting the seedlings.

Pumpkin is an excellent precursor for peppers

How to plant seedlings correctly?

Before planting, it is important to water the seedlings well so that the pepper does not wilt. Wilted pepper does not take root well, its growth is delayed, which leads to the fall of the first buds. So the early harvest is lost.

If the weather is hot, it is better to plant in the evening. In gloomy weather, morning disembarkation is recommended.

Prepare holes for planting and water. It is recommended to pour up to two liters of water into each hole (minimum liter), which should be heated in the sun. The seedlings are planted deeper than they were planted in pots, like seedlings. On the stem covered with soil, adventitious roots are formed that can nourish the plant.

Plant pepper seedlings in holes, ensuring sufficient watering

How to water bell peppers correctly?

Sweet pepper seedlings require special care.

In order for the seedling to take root faster, it is necessary to water the root every 2-3 days. One seedling consumes 1-2 liters of water. If the weather is hot, water every day. After seven days, the seedlings are checked and where the pepper has died, a new sprout from the reserve is planted. Reduce the amount of watering. This is called "fine" watering. It is important not to harm the plants by excessive watering. How to determine the water requirement of a vegetable? If the plant darkens, this is a sign that water is needed. The plant should not be allowed to wither for a long time. If leaves wilt in the heat, this is not a reason to water.

When the fruits ripen, watering is done once every 5-6 days. In hot weather, water in the morning or evening.

Watering young peppers should be regular.

When to loosen the soil?

Sweet peppers grow comfortably in loosened soil. It should not be allowed to develop until an earthen crust appears.

What is the benefit of loosening the soil?

• Improves air flow into the root.
• The plant grows faster.
• The functioning of microorganisms is stimulated.

By weeding the ground, there is a fight against weeds.

You should be aware of the slow growth of pepper in the first 10-14 days, because the rhizome is strengthened and there is no need to loosen the soil.

The first loosening of the soil is done after the first “fine” watering. The root system is located in the upper ball of the earth, so loosening will be shallow, at a level of 5-10 cm.

If the soil is heavy, the first time you can loosen the soil deeper, destroying the soil crust. This way the soil is better warmed up and ventilated.

Hilling is carried out during flowering.

Loosening the soil around peppers should be done regularly

Feeding

Caring for pepper will not bring the desired harvest if you do not feed it.

It is good to fertilize the seedlings with nettle fertilizer. To do this, combine nettle with water in a ratio of 1:10 and leave for two days. The last time the seedlings are fed is 2 days before planting, increasing the dosage of fertilizers with potassium (7 g per 1 liter of liquid).

At least three feedings are done per season. The first time during the first fluffing (after planting two weeks later). Fertilize with slurry from manure, bird droppings, mixing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or wood ash.

Manure is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:4, bird droppings are diluted 1:10. It is good to alternate chicken afterbirth with nitrophoska (1 tablespoon per bucket of liquid).

In solution organic fertilizer(manure, litter) it is effective to add 40-60 g of superphosphate and potassium chloride up to 20 g or wood ash in a volume of 150-200 g.

Mineral fertilizers are also used. To do this, you need to add the following substances to 10 liters of water:

• ammonium nitrate - 15-20 g;
• superphosphate - 40-60 g;
• potassium chloride - 15-20 g.

This fertilizer is used for 8-10 seedlings.

During fruit formation, the need for pepper nutrition increases. At this stage, the third feeding is carried out. And the second time they feed at the beginning of fruiting with an increase in the dose of ammonium nitrate.

If the fruits of the crop ripen small, feed it a fourth time.

It is important to know that when caring for peppers, use fertilizers without chlorine or with a very small percentage. Pepper does not tolerate chlorine. But there is a good replacement for potassium chloride - wood ash.

Superphosphate is one of the main fertilizers for peppers.

How to protect peppers from frost?

Having planted pepper, you need to know how to protect the crop from frost and damage. Caring for crops during frost requires creativity.

Tents are built from scrap materials (pieces of wood, cardboard, fabric, etc.). They are made in the evening and removed in the morning. But when the cold snap lasts for a long time, it is advisable to use film.

Flowers and ovaries often fall off. All due to unfavorable conditions for vegetables temperature regime(low or very high temperature). Growth stops at +8-10 degrees. But if the heat is 30-35 degrees for several days, the buds also fall off.

The consequence of untimely watering is a lack of moisture. Dry soil also reduces crop growth.

Pepper should not be shaded. With insufficient lighting, especially during cold weather, flowers and ovaries also fall off.

Bell pepper flowers may fall off due to lack of sunny color

Features of caring for bell peppers

There are some subtleties of caring for peppers for better yield:

1. It is imperative to stepchild the pepper - remove the side and bottom stepsons. But in hot and dry weather, stepsoning is not recommended. Leaves protect the soil from evaporation. To increase the yield, professionals suggest cutting off the central flower that grew from the first branch.
2. During the growing season, long shoots are cut off several times so that there is no shading of other branches.
3. Remove plant shoots below the main branch and internal branches. Pruning is carried out once every 10 days.
4. Pollinating insects are beneficial for sweet peppers. They are attracted by spraying the plant during the flowering period with a sugar solution (100 g of sugar and 2 g of boric acid are diluted in 1 liter of hot water).
5. By mulching peppers with rotted straw (up to a 10 cm layer), the frequency of watering will decrease.
6. When caring, it is important to tie up the crop immediately after hilling and mulching.

Mulching peppers helps reduce the frequency of watering

Pest Control

Pepper is sensitive to diseases, so it requires special care.

But pepper suffers the most from pests (cutworm, whitefly, aphid, Colorado potato beetle, mole cricket, slugs).

To prevent the plant from being damaged, pollination is carried out with wood ash (three times per season). You can fight aphids with a solution of serum and water (0.5 liters of serum per bucket of liquid). And sprinkle wood ash on top of the leaves.

By adopting all the tips, you can grow excellent harvest sweet pepper.

When growing and caring for peppers - both sweet and spicy varieties- must be ensured optimal temperature and humidity. Of course, most plants prefer softer ones, greenhouse conditions, but in warm climates it is possible to plant crops in open ground. Productivity in this case will depend on decent care and favorable weather conditions.

Caring for peppers in a greenhouse: watering, fertilizing, shaping

Caring for peppers in a greenhouse involves maintaining optimal temperature conditions, regular watering, fertilizing, weeding and loosening.

Temperature conditions. The air temperature in the greenhouse during the period from planting to full fruiting should be maintained at 21-28°C during the day and 15°C at night. Then the daytime temperature is reduced by 1-2°C.

When caring for peppers, the greenhouse is periodically ventilated by opening doors, vents, and transoms. In summer, when the outside temperature rises above 30°C, the glass covering of the greenhouse is sprayed with a chalk suspension or shaded using light wooden gratings.

Watering peppers is done 2-3 times a week at the root. Pepper is moisture-loving; 1-2 liters of water are consumed per plant. Plants are covered with moist soil. After the soil dries, the rows are loosened.

Fertilizer and fertilizing. Peppers are fertilized twice a month. For 10 liters of water, dilute 10-20 g of potassium chloride, 20-30 g of ammonium nitrate and 30-40 g of superphosphate. After feeding the peppers in the greenhouse, water the soil with clean water, otherwise you can burn the leaves. Instead of mineral fertilizers, plants are sometimes fed with organic matter: a solution of slurry or bird droppings with the addition of 150-200 g of wood ash per 10 liters of solution.

Experienced gardeners recommend watering peppers from 9 to 11 am. Frequent and prolonged drying out of the soil, as well as excessive waterlogging, should not be allowed, since the plant reacts to both dry soil and waterlogging.

Pollination. During the flowering period, peppers are shaken daily to ensure better pollination.

Bush formation. In order to grow pepper as a vertical crop, the bush begins to form at the first fork. When molding, two shoots are left in the first branch, which will be central. Subsequently, two shoots are left at each node: vertical (central) and external additional. In this way, the bush is formed to a height of 1-1.2 m.

Caring for peppers in open ground: watering, fertilizing, protection

Caring for peppers in open ground consists of watering, loosening the soil, fertilizing and protecting from frost.

Watering. The pepper is watered for the first time immediately after planting. The second time - after 5-6 days. In the future, it is watered every 7-10 days. First, 1-1.5 liters of water are consumed per plant, then the rate is increased to 1.5-2 liters. 2-3 weeks before the last harvest, watering is stopped.

Loosening. The soil is loosened after each rain and watering until the soil begins to dry out and crust over.

Fertilizer and fertilizing. Peppers are fed 3-4 times during the growing season, starting from the 10-15th day after planting the seedlings. When feeding peppers in open ground, use a solution of slurry (4-5 parts of water to 1 part fertilizer) or bird droppings (1 part fertilizer to 12-15 parts water). In addition, 150-200 g of wood ash, 40-60 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium chloride are added to 10 liters of solution. When conducting mineral fertilizing, in addition to phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, pepper is added ammonium nitrate(15-20 g per 10 liters of fertilizer solution).

Frost protection. Heat-loving peppers are protected from frost with the help of temporary tent shelters made of boards, cardboard, burlap, matting, roofing felt or other available materials. Portable film shelters are also popular. In case of severe frosts, the film is additionally covered with burlap or rags. Smoke and sprinkling are used.

Bush formation. During the growing season, pepper shoots that are too long are shortened. All unnecessary branches shading the crown of the bush are cut out. It is imperative to remove all shoots located below the main fork of the stem, as well as branches growing inside the crown. Pruning is carried out once a week, after harvesting the fruits.

Harvesting, storing and processing peppers

Pepper harvesting is carried out in a state of technical ripeness (the fruit has already formed, but has not reached the characteristic of this variety color and size), as well as in a state of biological ripeness (the fruit fully corresponds to its varietal characteristics). Usually 20-30 days pass between technical and biological ripeness. Ripe fruits crackle when touched. Peppers are harvested for the first time in mid-August and harvested every 6-8 days until frost. Before frost, all fruits are removed from the bush. They are sorted by degree of ripeness and, if necessary, stored for ripening. Hot peppers are harvested when the fruits become dry and red. You cannot pick peppers with your hands, as you can damage the fruit or stalk, which will lead to rotting of the pod. Therefore, the stalks are cut with a knife.

Like most vegetables, peppers have poor shelf life, and if stored poorly, the fruits will rot after two days. Subject to the right conditions peppers can be stored even longer than tomatoes and eggplants. Thin-walled peppers are best stored in the refrigerator. Part of the fruit stalk is cut off, leaving a small tip. The fruits should not show signs of disease, damage, cracks or dents.

Peppers are stored in plastic bags, or the fruits are put in boxes and sprinkled with sawdust. The fruits are stored for up to 2 months. Ripe peppers are kept at a temperature of 1-2°C, unripe ones - at 10-12°C.

Fruits are harvested for seeds in the phase of full biological ripeness. They are left for 3-4 weeks, after which they are cut around the calyx and the stalk with seeds is removed. It is kept at a temperature of 25-30°C for 3-4 days, and then the seeds are separated. They are placed in a paper bag and stored in a cool, dry place. Pepper seeds are stored for 5-6 years.

Sweet pepper fruits are consumed fresh, pickled, canned, dried, fried, boiled, stewed. It is also possible to process pepper into caviar, puree, and vegetable snacks.

When preparing for drying, remove the core from the peppers and wash them thoroughly. Then cut the pulp into pieces measuring 1.5 x 1.5 or 2 x 2 cm, blanch them in a boiling 1% salt solution for 1-2 minutes, allow the water to drain and place on a sieve. Dry at a temperature of 60-70°C for 3-5 hours. To obtain 1 kg of dried pepper, you need to take 10-12 kg of fresh pepper.

udec.ru

How to grow peppers

Pepper is a real storehouse of nutrients and vitamins and one of the most beloved vegetables in the whole world. However, if in the midst summer season It can be bought at any market for literally pennies, but by the beginning of autumn sellers are asking for much more money for it. It is for this reason that all those summer residents and gardeners who have already managed to grow delicious cucumbers and juicy tomatoes in their own greenhouses are starting to plant sweet peppers with great pleasure. Moreover, there is nothing complicated in this lesson. Of course, planting and caring for peppers has its own characteristics, but after reading the recommendations below, you can easily grow tasty and healthy sweet peppers yourself.

Pepper contains a huge amount of useful vitamins, which is why it is so often found in the gardens of summer residents.

Secrets of growing sweet peppers: choosing a variety

Growing peppers is not such a difficult task as it may seem to unprepared gardeners. However, before you start growing pepper, it would be useful to familiarize yourself with the variety and characteristics of the varieties of this vegetable.

Different varieties of pepper differ quite significantly in color and shape of the fruit.

Thus, pepper fruits can be elongated or wide, cuboid, cone-shaped, prism-shaped, curved or spherical. The weight of the fruit can also vary (usually from 0.5 to 200 g), as well as the length (usually from 1 to 30 cm). The color of the pepper may vary depending on the ripeness of the fruit: from light green to purple shades, and already ripe fruits can be colored red, brown, yellow and other colors.

Most often, the following varieties of pepper are chosen for growing in a greenhouse:

Before planting peppers in the ground, it should be watered so as not to damage the roots during transplantation.

• "Orange Miracle" is an early ripening hybrid. Characterized by cuboid-shaped fruits painted bright yellow;
• "Alyonushka" is a mid-early hybrid. It has truncated pyramidal red fruits;
• "Winnie the Pooh" is one of the early ripening varieties of pepper. The fruits are red in color and have a short, cone-shaped shape;
• "Pinocchio" is an early ripening hybrid. The fruits are smooth, slightly ribbed, distinguished by their elongated cone-shaped shape and red color;
• “Swallow” is a mid-early pepper variety. The fruits are red, cone-shaped;
• “California miracle” - refers to mid-early varieties with prismatic, large bright red fruits;
• "Tenderness" - early ripening variety pepper with very tender flesh. The fruits are red, truncated pyramidal in shape;
• "Negociant" is an early ripening hybrid. The fruits are red and prism-shaped;
• “Nochka” is a mid-season pepper hybrid. The fruits are bright red, truncated pyramidal;
• “Elephant trunk” is a mid-season variety of pepper. Trunk-shaped and elongated-cone-shaped fruits;
• "Astrakhan" - refers to mid-season varieties. It has drooping, cone-shaped fruits with rough pulp.

Growing and caring for pepper seedlings

Seeds for growing pepper seedlings must be sown at the end of February. Before sowing in prepared soil, pepper seeds must undergo the following treatment:

• disinfection in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for about 30 minutes, then rinsing with water;
• treatment with special growth stimulants, which can be bought in gardening stores;
• treatment with an appropriate antifungal agent to protect future pepper seedlings from fungus.

After the seeds have been processed, they are sown in small separate pots to a depth of 6-12 mm. It is necessary to germinate seeds at a temperature of about +25-30°C. The shoots themselves usually appear on the 4th day. After this, it will be possible to lower the temperature to +15-18°C for a whole week. This is done to prevent the plants from stretching out. A week later, the temperature rises again to +22-28°C.

Pepper seedling tools.

As for feeding, peppers grown in a greenhouse need to be fed for the first time only when 3 true leaves appear on the seedlings. To do this, you need to take the following: 30 g of potassium salt, 125 g of superphosphate and 50 g of urea. Mix all ingredients and dissolve in 10 liters of water. After feeding, immediately water the seedlings with clean water.

Experienced gardeners recommend that after the seedlings have 2-5 true leaves, they begin to additionally highlight them so that the plants are exposed to radiation with a large share of the blue spectrum. The duration of such illumination is 12 hours a day.

The second feeding should be done after the pepper has 4 true leaves. And when the seedlings already have 7-8 leaves, their nutrition and care should be especially good - it is at this stage that the flower organs develop, invisible to the human eye, on which the quality of the entire future harvest directly depends. In total, during the growing of seedlings, soil will need to be added to the pots 2 times.

Scheme of pepper formation (numbers indicate the order of formation of shoots).

Growing hothouse pepper involves performing a procedure such as hardening. Pepper seedlings are hardened off 2 weeks before they are planted in the ground. To do this, if the weather is warm outside, you need to take the pots with seedlings to the terrace or balcony. At night, the seedlings are brought indoors again.

7-8 days before planting, for greater stability, seedlings can be fed with potassium salt. Experienced gardeners recommend spraying the seedlings with a solution of a natural plant growth stimulator a day before planting. This will allow the pepper to produce its own hormones that are necessary for one or another growth phase. Such care will make the plant more resistant to various diseases. Pepper treated with a special solution is much more resistant to various adverse factors and better fruiting. As a result, the yield of peppers increases by approximately 40%, and the nitrate content is reduced by more than 2 times.

Planting and growing peppers in a greenhouse

Pepper seedlings can be considered ready for planting in greenhouse soil if they already have 12-14 leaves and bud development is observed in the leaf axils. As a result, healthy seedlings have a fairly thick stem about 25 cm high and a characteristic even green color. Moreover, it is necessary to plant pepper seedlings in an unheated film greenhouse when the soil in it warms up to +15°C - usually not earlier than mid-May. Moreover, the age of the pepper seedlings itself must be at least 55 days.

The soil itself in which pepper will be grown must be properly prepared. For this purpose, phosphorus and potash fertilizers, 40 g/m², and also nitrogen fertilizers 30 g/m². Do not fertilize the soil for peppers with fresh manure. Such treatment can lead to strong growth of bushes and falling off of flowers. It is better to use compost or humus - 1 bucket for every 1 m² is enough.

It is necessary to plant seedlings in a greenhouse on ridges 1 m wide with a row spacing of 50 cm. Planting density in the case of pepper depends on the characteristics of the chosen variety. Yes, for vigorous varieties pepper and hybrids, the distance between plants in 1 row is usually 35 cm, and for medium-growing varieties- 25 cm. For early ripening low-growing varieties - every 15 cm, that is, there will be 10 plants on every 1 m². Seedlings must be grown in holes that have been previously watered with water - 2 liters of water per hole. After planting, the soil must be thoroughly compacted by hand and mulched with humus or peat.

Proper care of peppers in a greenhouse

Caring for greenhouse peppers has its own characteristics. The plant needs warmth and moisture much more than even tomatoes. That is why it is most advisable to grow peppers in closed and protected ground.

Scheme for growing peppers in mineral wool blocks.

First of all, caring for peppers involves timely watering. If there is not enough moisture, then gray-brown spots will quickly appear on the fruits, and then they will begin to develop gray rot. Make sure that there are no sudden temperature changes in the greenhouse, which are extremely detrimental to the yield of this vegetable.

Greenhouse peppers are a favorite delicacy of aphids and spider mites. To prevent and control these pests, it is advisable to stock up on karbofos, or better yet, keltan in advance.

If the greenhouse is unheated, then to grow medium-sized varieties of pepper in it, you can limit yourself to harvesting the resulting shoots and leaves on the trunk, as well as excess shoots in the middle part of the plants. Caring for newly hatched hybrid varieties It’s even simpler - they can do without such molding, you just need to tie them up in a timely manner.

Hybrids and tall varieties you need to tie it to a trellis, choosing for this when forming the bushes the 2 strongest shoots, leaving 1-2 more for the first collections.

For good development of pepper, even in the very initial period, you need to remove 1 lower bud. In addition, all side shoots, as well as leaves on the main stem, must be removed before the first fork, as well as barren shoots and any diseased leaves.

Pollination of flowers, or how not to turn sweet peppers into bitter ones

All flowers of this plant are bisexual, so they can pollinate themselves. But if some insects get into your greenhouse through the window, cross-pollination may occur - which is why it is not recommended to grow hot and sweet pepper varieties in the same area. After all, if suddenly pollen hot pepper falls on the stigma of a sweet pistil, then the taste of the ripe fruit of the latter may be bitter to one degree or another.

You can experiment with the taste of hothouse pepper; this is not prohibited. Who knows, maybe you'll be the one to bring it out new variety, which everyone will like. Good luck and a good harvest!

VseoTeplicah.ru

Little tricks for growing pepper seedlings

Pepper came to us from the shores of Mexico. Since this is a southern plant, lovers of summer cottages are wondering how to properly grow pepper seedlings. It can be sweet or bitter, but the main points are the same for all varieties.

Preparing seeds and soil

Preparation of pepper seedlings begins from February to mid-May. Pepper seeds lose their viability after three years of storage. Before planting, they must be sorted out and damaged and darkened ones removed.

In order to check whether the seed is suitable for planting, it must be placed in a 3% salt solution (30 grams per 1 liter).

Seeds that float after 7 minutes can be thrown away. The seeds that have settled to the bottom are removed, washed with water, dried and prepared for sowing.

The seed, pre-pickled in potassium permanganate and treated with a growth stimulant, is soaked in warm water. The seeds are laid out on a cloth and placed in a warm place, for example, next to a radiator. It is important to ensure that the seeds are kept in a moist environment. Pepper seeds germinate in 1.5 to 2 weeks. You can put the soaked seeds in a thermos with water at 40 degrees for 2 hours.

For proper cultivation of pepper seedlings, the following types of substrates are used:

• Ready soils. Soil mixtures prepared specifically for peppers are the most reliable option for planting. They will help avoid damage from infections and pests.
• Self-prepared soil. Experienced summer residents prepare a substrate based on soil, humus and peat. If you decide to prepare the soil yourself, do not take the soil from the area where nightshades were grown the previous year and water it thoroughly with a solution of potassium permanganate.
• Coconut substrate. Good for growing peppers
• Peat tablets. A very convenient option for sowing seeds. When transplanting and picking, the plant along with the tablet is simply transferred to a large container.
• Soil with the addition of hydrogel. Adding hydrogel to the soil will help retain moisture in the soil longer. To do this, the balls, already swollen in water, are added directly to the soil. If you add dry granules, when they swell, they can displace the soil from the bowl.

From proper preparation Planting seedlings largely depends on its future quality and yield, so the process requires close attention.

Planting seeds and caring for seedlings

To properly grow pepper seedlings, you need to pay attention to all growth factors:

• The soil.
• Humidity.
• Illumination.
• Feeding.

To grow pepper seedlings, special boxes, peat pots, and plastic cups are used.

Craftsmen even suggest planting seeds in mayonnaise bags. The most important thing is to ensure good drainage in the container using sand and small pebbles, and don’t forget to punch holes in the bottom. This will avoid stagnation of water during watering and rotting of the roots.

The soil is shed with a warm, weak solution of potassium permanganate. Pepper seeds prepared for sowing are placed at a distance of 2 centimeters in small grooves, covered with 1 centimeter of soil and lightly compacted. To provide the seedlings with the most comfortable temperature (25-30 degrees) and humidity, the boxes with them are covered with film or a sheet of glass and placed in a warm place.

At good conditions The first shoots will appear within 10 days. When they appear, the boxes are moved to the light and the covering material is lifted to avoid the accumulation of condensation. The glass is removed when the bulk of the seedlings have leveled off and the first pairs of leaves begin to appear. If after two weeks not a single seedling has appeared, then the seedlings have failed.

You should ensure that the soil is always well moistened.

Water the seedlings with water room temperature left for at least a day. When watering, it is necessary to avoid overmoistening the substrate. To maintain comfortable humidity, the green mass is sprayed or an air humidifier is used. Avoid drafts and use covering material when ventilating.

As the seedlings appear, they begin to be illuminated, initially this is done around the clock using fluorescent lamps. To ensure sufficient lighting for the seedlings, it is necessary to keep the windows clean and make screens for light reflection using foil. As it grows, the green mass is illuminated in the morning and evening, so that the total length of the day is 12-18 hours.

You can feed the plants every 10 days after the first leaves appear using ammonium nitrate.

Complex fertilizing with nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus fertilizers must be carried out before planting in open ground. Pepper seedlings are quite capricious and in order to grow strong seedlings, you need to put in a lot of effort and follow all the rules.

Picking and hardening

There is a lot of controversy among gardeners regarding picking young shoots. Opponents argue that after it the pepper slows down its growth, wasting energy on restoring the root system. Proponents say that after picking, plants increase their vegetative mass better and receive more nutrients.

Pepper seedlings are planted when the first true leaves appear, about three weeks after the start of cultivation.

The seedling is carefully removed from the well-moistened soil, holding it by the upper leaves by one third, the main root is removed and transferred to separate containers with a volume of approximately 200 milliliters. There is no need for large dishes, since the roots can rot or build up excess green mass. Try to ensure that the root does not bend upward and is well spread out. The stem is buried almost to the first leaves, soil is added, compacted and watered.

Picking is also convenient because plants planted in separate cups can be easily moved apart. The pepper does not like to touch its neighbor's foliage and begins to stretch upward, wasting growth energy.

Get powerful seedlings resistant to external factors environment allows hardening.

About a month before landing planting material begin to expose to open sunlight, gradually increasing the exposure time.

To do this, the boxes are taken out onto the balcony or a window is opened. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the seedlings do not fall under drafts that affect them. negative impact and did not experience a lack of moisture. The described actions are not necessary, but their use allows you to grow good seedlings and produce a bountiful harvest.

The seedlings are ready for transplanting after at least 60 days. Seedlings 70-80 days old give greater yield. The decision to disembark is made during a visual inspection.

Plants should be undamaged, have 10-12 leaves, and be 20-30 centimeters in height.

In mid-May, peppers are planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse, and in early June in open ground. One of the problems that a gardener may encounter is overgrowth. To avoid this, when picking seedlings, you should cut off the roots and do not overuse fertilizing, especially nitrogen. If the plants do overgrow, you should reduce watering and lower the ambient temperature.

The pepper area should:

• Be well lit.
• Have loose soil.
• Be protected from draft and wind.
• Have a pH of no more than 6.

Before transplanting, the boxes with seedlings are well watered to carefully remove the plants. The seedlings are transferred from the pots along with the earthen lump. Pepper is sensitive to damage to the root system. The seedlings are carefully transferred to the holes, covered with soil and mulch, then the beds are watered abundantly.

The distance between the rows is 50-79 centimeters, in the row between the peppers 40 cm. If the distance between the plants is less, they will feel uncomfortable and stretch out. The depth of embedding is approximately the same as it was before replanting.

Sweet and bitter peppers are planted in different places to prevent cross-pollination.

If there is a possibility of night frosts, the transplanted peppers must be covered. To protect against bright sunlight for the first time after transplantation, covering materials are also used.

The main troubles when growing peppers await summer residents at the stage of growing seedlings. After transfer to open ground, basic care comes down to timely watering, protection from pests and subsequent harvesting.

Growing peppers is quite a painstaking job. But if you comply with all the requirements and recommendations, the beds will delight you with an abundance of fleshy, colorful and useful harvest peppers.

You can learn a lot of tips on how to plant pepper seedlings by watching the video.

MegaOgorod.com

How to properly care for pepper seedlings

How to understand that seedlings are of high quality and ready for planting in the ground

Any high-quality seedlings must look healthy, resilient, have a natural green color, and a sufficient number of full-fledged leaves.

Seedlings of almost all vegetables are ready for planting approximately 50 days after planting the seeds. It reaches 25 cm in height and has 4-6 leaves.

How and when to pick seedlings

Usually, seeds for seedlings are first sown in large quantities in large boxes, and when the sprouts sprout, the strongest, largest ones are selected from among them and planted in pots and “personal” boxes. As a result, the sprouts receive additional area for further development and gain some experience in transplanting.

Picking is done with sprouts that have at least 2 small leaves. The seedlings are watered, and after a few hours they are dug up, the roots are cut off by about 1/3 and planted in a “personal” pot or large plastic cup.

How to avoid overgrowing seedlings

Overgrown seedlings are not very good, since in a very large shoot the root system becomes too developed and there will not be enough soil in the pot for nutrition. As a result, instead of strong, healthy, stocky seedlings, the gardener receives elongated and frail ones.

Overgrowth of seedlings can occur for the following reasons:

✓ delay in planting in the ground due to cold spring;

✓ with abundant watering and fertilizing; v if there is not enough light on the windowsill.

There are several ways to prevent the situation:

✓ when picking, specially trim part of the root system to prevent overgrowth;

✓ use growth regulators;

✓ plant seeds a little later than usual. If your seedlings have already outgrown, then you should:

✓ stop watering and put the pots in a cooler place;

✓ when transplanting into the ground, place the long lower part of the stem underground, which will shorten the plant, and new roots will come from the stem;

✓ cut off a few from the escape large branches, root them and then plant them.

How to properly illuminate seedlings

Plants receive a sufficient amount of light only in open ground, being in a normally lit area and during a long period of time. daylight hours, which is naturally possible only in the summer. However, seedlings are grown starting from the end of winter. To help young shoots get enough light for development, it should be supplied artificially.

Experienced summer residents use the following methods at will:

✓ mirrors or sheets of foil are attached to the window slopes, and the light reflected from them hits the seedlings in greater quantities. However, this amount of light may still not be enough for the seedlings, so you should regularly wash the windows and take “walks”, opening the windows on a warm sunny day;

✓ the most reliable way of supplementary lighting is to use fluorescent lamps daylight, located at a distance of about 15 cm from the seedlings. It should be remembered that the seedlings grow over time, which means that the lamps will have to be raised from them to the height of their growth. Duration artificial lighting is 19-20 hours daily.

How to water seedlings correctly

It is preferable to water the seedlings with settled or filtered water. You can also use melt water if you are not tormented by doubts about its quality and the harmlessness of its chemical composition. Each box and pot must have drainage holes to drain excess water. The frequency of watering depends on external factors(sunny or cloudy weather), soil composition and the own needs of specific plants. Therefore, it is impossible to say exactly how often seedlings need to be watered - usually the number of waterings ranges from several times a day to once a week. It is better to water vegetables that like moist air (for example, cucumbers) in the evening, while those that prefer drier air (for example, bell pepper, tomatoes) - in the morning.

When to plant seedlings

Each plant has its own duration growing season, so different vegetables are sown for seedlings in different time, but usually this happens in February-March, for example, tomatoes - in the second half or at the end of February, bell peppers - in the first half of February, cabbage, cucumbers - at the end of March.

How to use peat tablet

A peat tablet is compressed peat in the form of a tablet with a diameter of about 8 cm and a thickness of about 3 cm, which has a small depression in one of the bases. Its advantage is its ready-made form, the structure of the peat allows air to pass well into the depths of the tablet to the roots, and its composition is balanced and does not require the delivery of additional nutrients.

Before use, the tablet is placed on a tray with the base facing up and filled with water at room temperature. After about 30 minutes, the tablet increases in height, becoming a cylinder.

Place several seeds into the recess of the moistened cylinder and cover the top with humus. Place the peat cylinder in greenhouse conditions, placing it under a glass or polyethylene structure (for example, an upside-down aquarium or a wire cap covered with polyethylene). When the seedlings sprout and produce roots, they should be planted in the ground or greenhouse along with a peat cylinder.

How to preserve seedlings if you plan to be absent for a long time

If you urgently need to get away for a long time long time, and you are planning to grow seedlings, then you can ensure a regular supply of water to the seeds or sprouts using the classic “thread” by drip, placing a sufficiently large container of water at a level above the boxes with seedlings and passing a woolen thread to each.

Currently on sale there is a so-called hydrogel - a polymer material acrylamide, available in the form of powder or tiny granules that absorb water and increase hundreds of times.

The hydrogel can be added dry to the soil and then watered after planting. Then the soil will increase in volume and everything may fall out of the box/pot. Therefore, it is better to add granules pre-soaked in water to the seedling soil.

Thanks to the hydrogel, the number of waterings can be reduced by up to 6 times, and the soil structure will improve.

Hydrogel consumption is approximately 30 g per 1 m2.

alegri.ru

How to care for hot peppers?

Victoria

Usually, lovers of indoor gardening sow pepper seeds in February, in September-October they remove the reddened fruits and soon throw away the fruit-bearing plant. Depending on the care and experience of the gardener, the yield of the Ogonyok variety can range from 5 to 15 pods, the Ram Horn variety from 10 to 25. With the method that I follow, you can get Ogonyok up to 30-40, and Ram Horn up to 60 or more pods.
I made my discovery by accident. I forgot to throw away the fruited pepper. Without watering or care, it stood on the windowsill. But in January, along with the increase in daylight hours (and the pepper senses this very strongly), the plant suddenly turned green with several buds. Just for fun, I started watering it, cutting off the completely dried branches. To my surprise, strong shoots appeared that went almost horizontally and began to branch. Their color was intense and bright. By May, dozens of fruits began to appear, and not just a few, as happens with an annual crop. By autumn, I had deliberately preserved the experimental plant and observed it for several years.
This way I practiced all the techniques for caring for peppers.
I was convinced that their strong root system, starting to vegetate in the first half of January, allows the plant to fully develop in March-May. What happens during these months cannot even be compared with how the plant develops in June-July and August, when, despite high temperatures, there is a decline in both flowering and fruit filling. Neither care nor fertilizers can compensate for this decline. This is the first thing.
Secondly, healing power The spring sun brings into intensive development not a tiny shoot, as happens with an annual crop, but a thick stem saturated with nutrients. After all, in the fall, even a plant depleted by the harvest deposits nutrients to continue progeny for the next year.
And if we also take care of the pepper in the fall, feed it on time, it will go to “winter” full of strength.
In particular, one of the plants was placed in a pot with a volume of no more than 0.5 liters. Despite the cramped “living space”, the crown of the pepper reached half a meter in diameter, was strewn with flowers and fruits so that it threatened to tip over, I was forced to tie it to the frame. Up to 60 Ram's Horn fruits were set and filled by May, each the size of a woman's little finger, or even more.
The second experience was that I avoided the use of mineral fertilizers, made do with “available materials”, and worked out a waste-free farming scheme. In the fall, after harvesting, I removed half or even two-thirds of the pepper leaves, first of all the wilted ones, with a broken petiole, or curled ones. I trimmed the crown, making it compact, in the shape of a ball or ellipse. I squeezed all the trimmings, including other plants, between the walls of the pot and the earthen ball, sometimes specially taking out part of the earth. I handled the pepper rather unceremoniously. I could pull it out of the pot by the stem and inspect the earthen ball, trim off the excess roots. After all, in a small pot they can “run around” the inner diameter of the pot many times. In this case, the supply of food becomes difficult, which is why I mercilessly cut them off. And I put the scraps together with the soil in a pot: let them rot. At the same time, I diluted the “extra” soil with water and poured the resulting infusion over the vegetable cuttings, filling the air voids. Often mulched the surface of the soil in the pot with grass cuttings during the growing season. The mulch gradually rotted and provided nutrition.
And with such a poor but well-thought-out diet, my peppers bore fruit for several years, until I lost interest in the experiment, having worked out everything I needed.
I was convinced that you can sow pepper seeds at any time of the year. Not only in spring, but even in autumn, before winter. Seedlings do not grow from poor lighting, they only freeze and develop later

Marina Stebeleva

This is exactly how it stands on my windowsill, among other plants. I water it almost every day, because the air in the apartment is very dry. I fertilize periodically universal fertilizer. From time to time I trim branches that are too long.
In general, I don’t do anything special. I'm happy with the harvest.

Plaxaya

I have it on my windowsill too,
and I water it when I remember
I don’t trim the branches, I don’t fertilize the soil,
every year a bunch of peppers ripen...

Gastezzo

Don’t forget to water it, your pepper =)

Andrey Petrenko

Plant care. During the growing season, it consists of inter-row tillage of the soil, manual weeding in the rows, and control of weeds, pests and diseases. Pepper is very sensitive to soil compaction and lack of air, so after each watering or rain it is necessary to loosen the soil. Simultaneously with loosening, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is carried out.
Weed control consists of cultivation and hand weeding.
The main pests of pepper are: Colorado potato beetle, cutworms, aphids and thrips.
The Colorado potato beetle causes less damage to pepper plants, but in large populations it can cause significant damage. Protection measures are similar to those for tomatoes. To combat the Colorado potato beetle on pepper, the drug Aktara 25 WG is registered - 0.06-0.08 kg/ha. Cultivation is carried out when the larvae begin to emerge.
Scoops. Controlling these pests is difficult because there are many varieties of cutworms and their emergence is extended. Therefore, it is very important to predict the emergence of larvae and carry out timely treatment. To more accurately predict the emergence of cutworm caterpillars, it is necessary to use pheromone traps or take into account active air temperatures. There are no drugs registered to control cutworms on peppers.
Aphids and thrips are less harmful, but when there is a high infestation of these pests, plants become depressed and deformed, which leads to loss of yield or death of plants. Fungal and viral diseases actively spread on plants damaged by sucking pests.
Main diseases of pepper: bacteriosis, viral diseases. There are no registered drugs to combat fungal diseases on pepper, so you need to focus on drugs approved for protecting tomatoes.
In recent years, pepper plantings have been severely affected by viral diseases. Measures to combat viral diseases include: mechanical removal diseased plants, as well as heat treatment seed material, combating sucking pests. To guarantee the production of seedlings unaffected by viral diseases, it is necessary to buy pure-grade seed material that has undergone special treatment.
When growing seedlings, the drug Previkur 607 is used to combat root rot. The application rate is 15 ml per 10 liters of water. 2-4 liters of working solution are added per 1 m2 by irrigation.

Juno

decorative pepper (capsicum), nightshade family. Other names: Mexican pepper, capsicum
Place of Origin: Central and South America
Uses: flowering, fruit
Plant dimensions: up to 40 cm in height
Growth: fast
Bloom: summer
Care and maintenance
Temperature in summer
18 – 25 Temperature in winter
10 – 18
LightingLighting: direct solar
bright diffused

bright, but not sunny and only indoors; black pepper tolerates shade and partial shade; In winter we keep it at a temperature not lower than 18 degrees.
WateringWatering: Moderate in winter
In summer - plentiful
Reproduction Reproduction: in spring by seeds or apical cuttings
Air humidityAir humidity: daily spraying
TransplantationReplantation: annually in spring. Soil mixture: turf soil, leaf soil, peat and sand (1:1:1:1/4).
Top dressing Feeding: spring-summer - once every 2 weeks with mineral and organic fertilizers
winter-autumn - without feeding
TrimmingPruning: in spring, from half to two-thirds of the length
Features of careFeatures of care: In summer you can take it out into the fresh air
Feels great next to other indoor plants.

Kazatschka

The weak point, besides dry air, is pests, for example aphids

Ekaterina Dzhuss

You can place it with other plants, but only on a lighted window. It loves moisture, but do not overwater it, otherwise the fruits will be tasteless.