• Landing: no later than the first half of April on a site prepared in the fall, or before winter, from the second half of September to mid-October.
• Lighting: bright sunlight or partial shade.
• The soil: optimal soil– moderately moist, fertile loam of neutral reaction.
• Watering: in drought – abundant (10-12 l per m²). In August, watering is stopped.
• Feeding: after emergence - with mullein or urea, then the garlic is fed at a two-week interval. Just four feedings per season are enough.
• Reproduction: vegetatively – with teeth.
• Pests: caterpillars of garden, winter, cabbage and gamma cutworms, centipedes, onion moths and flies, mole crickets, stem nematodes, secretive proboscis, tobacco thrips.
• Diseases: gray, white and neck rot, downy mildew, jaundice, fusarium, helminthosporium, smut, rust, viral mosaic, tracheomycosis.

Read more about growing garlic below.

Vegetable garlic - description

The root system of garlic is fibrous, the bulb is round, slightly flattened, complex, forming in the axils of scales from 2 to 50 children, called lobules or cloves, covered with white, yellowish, pink-violet or dark purple leathery scales. The leaves are narrow, lanceolate, grooved, keeled on the underside, entire, drooping and erect, up to 1 cm wide, 30 to 100 cm long. The leaves sprout from one another, forming a false stem like a stem onions, but more durable. The peduncle reaches a height of 60 to 150 cm and ends in an umbrella-shaped inflorescence, hidden by a filmy membrane until the opening of sterile flowers on long stalks with pale lilac or white petals up to 3 mm long and six stamens. The fruit is a capsule. There are spring and winter garlic.

Planting garlic in open ground

When to plant garlic in the ground.

Planting of garlic in the ground is carried out early - no later than the first ten days of April, but since it is difficult to dig frozen soil at this time, the area for spring garlic is prepared in the fall. Planting garlic in the fall is carried out in the time period from the second half of September to mid-October, so that it has time to form a strong plant before the cold weather. root system, penetrating 10 cm deep, but at the same time would not have time to start growing.

Soil for garlic.

The soil for garlic needs to be fertile and neutral, but this crop grows best in loam. The soil should not be dry, but avoid planting garlic in lowlands where melted and rainwater. The area for garlic needs to be deeply dug up in the fall, adding 30 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium salt and a bucket of humus per m². In the spring, all you have to do is level the area with a rake.

After which you can plant garlic.

The best precursors for garlic are any cabbage, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas and green manure, the worst are onions, cucumbers, carrots, tomatoes and garlic itself. And for plants such as strawberries, wild strawberries, raspberries, potatoes, gooseberries and black currants, garlic planted nearby will protect against insect pests. The proximity of garlic will also benefit plants such as roses, gladioli and tulips, since garlic repels not only slugs, caterpillars and borers, but even moles do not dig their holes near the places where this crop grows.

How to plant garlic in open ground.

Have you ever heard the phrase “garlic seeds”? Or “growing garlic from seeds”? It’s strange if you’ve heard, since garlic does not form seeds and reproduces vegetatively – by cloves, and winter varieties can also reproduce by aerial bulbs. The harvest directly depends on the quality planting material, so 2-3 weeks before spring planting Place the cloves in the refrigerator to stratify, then sort them by size, discarding those that are diseased, twisted, damaged, soft, too small or irregularly shaped, or those that are missing their shell. After this, the cloves selected for sowing are disinfected for two hours in an ash solution: 400 g of ash are diluted in 2 liters of water, boiled for half an hour and cooled. The ash solution can be replaced with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or a one percent solution copper sulfate, in which the teeth are kept for 12 hours. Then the slices are germinated at room temperature, wrapped in a napkin moistened with water, which is placed in plastic bag for 2-3 days, although this stage of seed preparation is not necessary.

As soon as the soil temperature reaches 5-7 ºC, prepare the bed by making grooves 7-9 cm deep at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other, plant the cloves in them vertically with the bottom down at intervals of 6-8 cm. The planting depth is , equal to twice the height of the clove - something about 5-6 cm. If you place the cloves in the furrow with the edge facing south, the green feathers of the garlic will be able to receive the maximum amount of spring sun, which will increase the yield and make it easier for you to care for the garlic. If the soil is moist from melted snow, watering will not be necessary after planting, but if the soil is dry, water the area as much as possible. Spring garlic germinates at a temperature of 3-4 ºC, the seedlings are not afraid of frost, but the garlic will be grateful to you for mulching the soil with peat.

Planting garlic before winter.

We have already written about how to plant garlic in the fall, especially since planting winter garlic is carried out in the same order and on the same principle as planting spring crops, but the area for garlic is prepared not six months, but two weeks before planting, and a layer of coarse sand or ash 1.5-3 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the furrow, to prevent contact of seed with soil and protect it from rot. Winter garlic, as a rule, is larger than spring garlic, so the largest cloves are planted at a distance of 12-15 cm from each other, and those that are smaller, at a distance of 8-10 cm. And the depth of winter planting should be greater - 15-20 cm The bulbs are sown at the same time to a depth of about 3 cm according to the 2x10 pattern - next year they will turn out to be one-toothed bulbs, planting which again will give you full-fledged garlic bulbs. Mulching the area with dry peat or a mixture of soil and sawdust for the winter is mandatory: mulch protects the garlic from frost, and its layer should be no thinner than 2 cm. If very severe frosts hit and there is no snow, cover the area with film or roofing felt, which can be removed when the snow starts to fall. Under snow cover, winter garlic can withstand twenty-degree frosts.

Caring for Garlic

How to grow garlic.

Caring for garlic consists of regular watering, weeding, loosening the area and fertilizing. It is necessary to remove garlic shoots as soon as they form, and also know how to treat garlic in the event of an attack by insect pests or infection with some kind of disease.

Watering the garlic.

Water the garlic as the soil dries; in dry weather, water generously - 10-12 liters per m², but if it rains regularly, you can avoid watering. They completely stop watering garlic in August, when the bulb begins to gain weight and volume.

Fertilizing garlic.

As soon as shoots appear in the spring, green garlic is fed nitrogen fertilizers(Fertakoy, mullein or urea), after two weeks the garlic is fertilized again. In just one season, it is enough to fertilize the area with garlic four times.

Pests and diseases of garlic

What causes garlic, and what other enemies does it have in the open ground? The diseases and pests of garlic and onions are almost the same. Of the diseases, the most dangerous are white, cervical and gray rot, helminthosporiosis, fusarium, smut, jaundice, downy mildew (or downy mildew), mosaic, rust and tracheomycosis.

Among the insects that most often cause trouble for garlic are the onion secretive proboscis, tobacco thrips, stem nematode, caterpillars of winter, cabbage, garden and gamma cutworms, sprout and onion flies, mole crickets, onion moths and centipedes.

Garlic processing.

We could list disease and insect control products that will help you deal with almost all of garlic's enemies, but before you treat an area with an insecticide or fungicide, remember that the head of garlic absorbs both nutrients and poisons that you will later eat. Isn’t it better to try to avoid a situation in which you have to risk either the crop harvest or own health? The key to a rich harvest of high-quality garlic is compliance with crop rotation and agrotechnical requirements of the crop: do not plant garlic in the same bed until 4-5 years have passed; Treat the storage area two months before planting garlic with a solution of 400 g of bleach in 10 liters of water and take the pre-sowing treatment of cloves and bulbs seriously. Health seed material, in addition to the processing methods we have already described, can provide heating of the cloves at a temperature of 40-42 ºC for 10 hours.

Harvesting and storing garlic

Garlic harvesting is carried out from mid-August to the end of the first ten days of September, and winter garlic - at the end of July or beginning of August. So that you do not make a mistake with the timing, here are the signs that will tell you that the garlic is ready for harvesting:

• – new feathers stopped forming;
• – the old feathers turned yellow and died;
• – the heads have formed and acquired the color and volume characteristic of the variety.

If you are late in harvesting, the garlic will grow again, the head will break into slices, and such garlic will become unsuitable for long-term storage. The garlic is dug up with a pitchfork or pulled out of the ground, leaving it to dry on the edge of the furrow. Then they shake off the soil and dry the heads in air at a temperature of about 25 ºC for ten days or a week in a ventilated room at a temperature of 30-35 ºC, after which the roots and leaves are cut off, leaving a neck about 5 cm long for non-shooting varieties and about 2 see shooters.

The optimal storage temperature for spring garlic is 16-20 ºC, and for winter garlic – 2-4 ºC. Winter garlic is more capricious than spring garlic and is not suitable for long-term storage; it is more often affected by rot during storage and dries out quickly, so the room where the garlic will be stored should not be too dry or too humid. Optimal humidity for storing garlic 60-80%. Heads with three covering scales and a bottom cauterized by fire have the best keeping quality.

Everyone is familiar with the method of weaving garlic into braids or wreaths. To do this, the false stem at the head is not cut, but only the leaves are removed, after which they begin to weave the braid from below, gradually adding new heads, and to give the braid strength, twine is added to the weaving. A loop is made at the end of the braid so that it can be stored in a suspended state. You don’t have to bother yourself with braiding, but simply tie the heads by the false stems in a bun. You can store such braids or bundles right under the ceiling or under the roof of dry sheds or attics. A popular way to store garlic is to hang it in nylon stockings or nets. You can also store garlic in wicker baskets, placing them in a residential room that is not heated in winter - in the attic or veranda. Garlic is stored in sterilized glass jars, sometimes sprinkled with salt, sometimes not. Garlic sprinkled with salt can also be stored in small wooden boxes. Some housewives rinse the heads of garlic in brine, let them dry and store them in linen bags that are hung from the ceiling.

Do not forget to sort through the stored garlic from time to time in order to promptly identify a rotten or drying head.

Types and varieties of garlic

Garlic varieties for open ground are divided into three groups:

• – winter bolters;
• – winter non-shooting crops;
• – spring non-shooting.

Winter varieties are characterized by early ripening, a bountiful harvest with larger heads and cloves, but winter garlic does not store well, so it is better to use it for cooking and as a seasoning for canning and pickling vegetables. Main winter varieties:

• – Boguslavsky– in a spherical head weighing up to 45 g, no more than 6 cloves, the color of the shell is lilac-gray, the variety is cold-resistant;
• – Komsomolets– in a large dense head, covered with a pinkish husk, from 6 to 13 cloves of pungent taste, a mid-season variety, bolting, resistant to cold;
• – Anniversary Gribovsky– a multi-yielding, mid-late, bolting, disease-resistant variety of very pungent taste with large heads in a matte husk lilac shade, in which from 10 to 12 cloves;
• – Gribovsky 60– an early ripening shooter variety with a sharp taste, hardy to weather conditions, with the number of cloves in the head from 7 to 11;
• – Petrovsky– a bolting winter variety with high yield, disease resistance and excellent keeping quality, with a sharp taste and dense pulp;
• – Losevsky– high-yielding, winter-hardy, bolting mid-season variety pungent taste with a round-flat bulb tapering upward, weighing up to 80 g, consisting of 4-5 cloves. Shelf life up to 6 months;
• – Yubileiny 07– mid-season shooter productive variety semi-sharp taste with a rounded flat head weighing up to 80 g, consisting of 5-8 cloves. Shelf life: no more than 6 months;
• – Gulliver– a mid-late shooting variety with a flat-rounded head with dark gray covering scales, white flesh and a pungent taste. Number of cloves from 3 to 5 pieces, head weight from 90 to 120 g, shelf life up to 8 months;
• – Flight– small weight, cold-resistant heads with no more than eight cloves.

In addition to those listed, popular varieties are Parus, Prometheus, Sofievsky, Spas, Kharkovsky Violet, Lyubasha, Donetsk Violet, Promin, Leader, Saki and others.

Spring varieties have a higher shelf life than winter varieties, but require certain storage conditions, otherwise they may be affected by rot. The growing season for spring garlic is about three months. The most common varieties of spring garlic:

• – Gafuriysky– a fast-ripening variety, spicy and prolific – up to 18 cloves in a large head;
• – Ukrainian white– the number of teeth is about 20, the head is large, flattened;
• – Degtyarsky– a non-shooting mid-season variety of semi-sharp taste with the number of cloves in the head from 16 to 18;
• – Elenovsky– a non-shooting variety with a medium-sharp taste and good keeping quality with white upper scales and pinkish inner scales;
• – Ershovsky– a non-shooting, medium-bodied variety with a semi-sharp taste, a round-flat head weighing up to 35 g, stored for up to 7 months and with a number of cloves from 16 to 25.

From varieties foreign selection of interest:

• – French varieties of pink garlic Lautrec;
• – frost-resistant Czech variety Red Duke, the head of which consists of 8 large lobes of a purple hue, although its outer scales are white;
• – Elephant garlic delicate taste, the head of which reaches a diameter of 15 cm and a weight of one kilogram, although there were specimens weighing 2.5 kg with a number of teeth weighing about 50 g up to 20 pieces in one head;
• – Silver- a productive non-shooting variety, resistant to rust, with snow-white outer scales with a silvery tint, the head of which can consist of 18-20 lobes.

When to plant winter garlic? Preparing a bed for garlic. Video - Growing large winter garlic. Mulching garlic in the fall. When to remove mulch from garlic? Buy seed garlic.

In this article I will tell you in detail how I grow very large garlic in the Moscow region using the “Plant and Forget” technology. The name of this technology was not invented by me, but by my good friend from the city of Belgorod. He himself plants garlic in much the same way, and wrote about this last year “Planting Winter Garlic. Mulching with hay and leaves" -

When to plant winter garlic?

In 2016, I planted garlic on October 9th. I usually plant garlic at the very end of October, but the forecast predicted a sharp cold snap, so it’s better to play it safe and plant the garlic early.

Preparing a bed for planting garlic.

Preparing a bed for planting garlic comes down to the following: you need to remove the previous crop, level the ground with a rake, and mulch with a thick layer of grass. There should really be a lot of grass, and the finer the grass is chopped, the better. I use an electric or gas-powered riding lawn mower. The volume of freshly cut grass is a whole 120-liter wheelbarrow per 1 sq.m. Work usually takes place at the end of August. At this point, the preparation of the bed is completed and in about a month and a half we plant garlic.

For those who came to the site for the first time, it may be interesting to know the principle itself Andintense natural farming. View the results of using this method on all crops, about this -

Planting winter garlic. Mulching garlic in the fall.

Seed garlic. Moscow region.

Through the mulch I make holes for the garlic, approximately 5-6 cm deep. The distance between the rows is approximately 15 cm, between the holes in the row 13-15 cm.

There will be a video at the end of the article so you can see everything. Next, I lightly sprinkle each hole with soil. Then I take a lawn mower and collect fallen leaves with it, which I use to mulch the garlic after planting. It does not matter which tree the fallen leaves come from, in my case it is Manchurian walnut.

I mulch the garlic bed with leaves, a layer of leaves 15-20 cm.

Winter will pass, a thick layer of snow will compact the leaves well, but the garlic plant is very strong and breaks through the leaves without problems. (Watch the video)

When to remove mulch from garlic?

I hear this question every spring!

Tell me, why did we mulch the garlic? Why were you so tense? In winter, garlic will not freeze without any mulch. Then why did we mulch it?

We mulched the garlic in the fall so that in the summer we would not have to deal with the garlic and not stand in a typical position while weeding.

All! There is no care for garlic, all care comes down to autumn mulching; in the summer there are more important things to do. This is the “set it and forget it” technology.

If suddenly there is intense heat in May, which happens extremely rarely in the Moscow region, you will need to water the garlic.

Why cut off the arrows of garlic?

Spring and June were very cold this year.

July 7, 2017, harvest is very late. Today I just broke off the arrows. This will give an increase in yield, the head of garlic will be larger. I leave a few arrows. Firstly, they can be used to determine whether the garlic is ready for harvesting. Secondly, you can plant garlic with seeds; next year single cloves or small garlic will grow, and this way you can update the variety. The bulbs on my garlic grow large.

A bulb of garlic on a regular notebook sheet in a cage.

I would like to add that this year I do not have a single arrow on my bow. Onions shoot due to improper storage in winter; you can also add onions before planting, for a month at a temperature of 25 -27 degrees, but I don’t have such conditions, so I buy them and plant them right away.

Moscow region garlic.

I hope that I didn’t miss anything, and it became clear to everyone that growing large garlic using the “Plant and Forget” technology is much easier than traditional method, which involves digging, weeding and fertilizing, and I don’t consider breaking arrows to be hard work.

16.02.2018

Everything about proper cultivation spring and winter garlic in open ground, what to do if it turns yellow in the spring, what to water and how to feed you will learn from this guide. The information will be especially useful for beginners, and will also be useful for experienced gardeners. Growing garlic usually does not cause big problems and yet for good harvest It is necessary to comply with the rules of planting, care and feeding.

What is the difference between spring garlic and winter garlic?

Gardeners know that there are winter and spring garlic, and you will see the differences between them in the table and photo:

Spring garlic	Winter garlic
There are more cloves - from 12 to 30 pieces, but they are smaller	An arrow sticks out in the middle of the bottom, which is surrounded by 4-12 large cloves
The bulbs are smaller in size and have more scales.	Bulbs and cloves are larger and more productive
The teeth on the bottom of the bulb are arranged in a spiral from the periphery to the center, with the outer ones being larger	In the middle there is a thick and hard rod, around which the teeth
Planted out in early spring	Planted in autumn
It ripens in September, it is stored for winter and consumed before the new harvest.	Can only be stored until February

Winter garlic is more common, but in the northern regions they prefer to grow spring garlic, since winter-planted plants can freeze.

Varieties of garlic with photos and descriptions

Most often, garlic is propagated by cloves, of which there are from 4 to 12 in each bulb, and sometimes more.

Do not use grocery store garlic as planting material. It may not be suitable for growing in your region, and in most cases it is treated with special substances that make it difficult to grow. It is best to buy garlic for planting from a trusted online seed store or local nursery.

Garlic varieties are divided into two groups:

1. Arrowheads - they have a flowering shoot emerging from the center of the bulb - an arrow ending in an inflorescence. It consists of bulbs (aerial bulbs) and flower buds, which subsequently dry out without forming seeds. A sign of ripening is the yellowing of the leaves and arrows. All bolting varieties of garlic are considered winter varieties.
2. Non-shooters– in such plants only leaves develop during the growing season. These varieties can be either winter or spring.

The best varieties of garlic for planting before winter

Shooters

Dubkovsky is a medium-ripening variety - 98–114 days pass from germination to harvest. Productivity 5.6 kg per 10 m2. Bulbs weighing 30 g, round-flat, dense. There are 10–12 cloves in an onion. The taste is spicy. Recommended for cultivation in the Krasnodar Territory, Kurgan, Rostov and Pskov regions.

Jubilee Gribovsky is the most common medium-life variety - 83–122 days pass from germination to drying of the leaves. The yield is high - on average 12.5 kg per 10 m2. The bulbs are 20–30 g, round-flat, with large teeth. The taste is very spicy. The variety is relatively winter-hardy, resistant to drought, major pests and diseases, and adapts well to different weather conditions. For cultivation in the northern and central regions of Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Ukraine.

Otradnensky – mid-late variety– 95–135 days pass from germination to drying of the leaves, universal use. The yield is very high - 12–13.5 kg per 10 m2. The bulbs are more than 30 g, round-flat, with up to eight cloves each. The variety is very winter-hardy. Good for growing in the Primorsky Territory and Mordovia.

Parus is a medium-ripening variety - time from germination to harvest: 96–108 days. Gives a yield of 6 to 10 kg per 10 m2. The bulbs weigh 30–47 g, round-flat, dense, store well, and contain 7–10 cloves. The taste is spicy. The variety is winter-hardy. Recommended for cultivation in the Voronezh and Nizhny Novgorod regions, Ukraine, Stavropol Territory and Kazakhstan.

Siberian - medium term - from germination to harvesting 81–113 days, universal. The average yield is 5.8 kg per 10 m2. Bulbs weighing 20–30 g, rounded-flat, with medium-sized cloves (4–5 pcs.). The taste is pungent and semi-sharp. Suitable for cultivation in the Novosibirsk, Kemerovo, Omsk and Tomsk regions.

Non-shooters

Novosibirsk is a medium-early ripening variety - from germination to harvest it takes 68–82 days, for universal use. Productivity 5–6 kg per 10 m2. The bulbs weigh up to 30 g, are round, and store well. There are 9–13 cloves in the onion. The taste is semi-sharp, delicate. Recommended for the Novosibirsk and Kemerovo regions.

Saki – early variety– 100–115 days pass from germination to yellowing of leaves, universal use. Productivity 4.2 kg per 10 m2 Bulbs weighing 20 g, flat and round-flat, with wide cone-shaped teeth. There are 11–13 of them in the bulb. The taste is spicy. Well suited for growing in Crimea.

Garlic varieties for planting in spring

Among spring varieties, a particularly important role belongs to numerous local forms, which are usually very well preserved. Among them:

• Danilovsky (variety of the Yaroslavl region).
• Bryansk, Ufa (varieties of Bashkortostan).
• Cheboksary (Chuvashia variety), etc.

Garlic varieties quickly degenerate, so they must be changed periodically.

What soil is needed for garlic?

Garlic grows well on fertile, loose, light sandy or loamy soil, in non-flooded areas, with sufficient sunlight; Areas shaded by trees are not suitable for this crop. It does not tolerate either excessive moisture or prolonged drying out of the soil.

It is good if the garden bed is located on a sunny hill and protected from the wind by a fence, trees or bushes. In spring, water should not stagnate there.

Before planting, the soil is dug up, loosened, the roots of perennial weeds are selected and carefully leveled.

When digging, humus (1–2 buckets) and wood ash (2–4 kg) are added per 1 m2. Instead of ash, you can take superphosphate and potassium salt (15-20 g each).

Acidic soil is limed. The bed is prepared two weeks before planting, as it needs to settle a little so that the garlic cloves do not go deep into the ground.

How to soak garlic before planting

Before planting, garlic is treated with a weak solution of microelements (one tablet is dissolved in 1 liter of water) or an infusion of birch firewood ash: 1 tablespoon of ash is thoroughly stirred in 1 liter hot water and soak the garlic for one night.

To avoid the most common garlic disease - false powdery mildew, before planting, the teeth are heated for 12 hours at 40 C and treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Growing garlic in open ground

The bulbs and cloves of winter garlic are larger and more productive than those of spring garlic, but the latter, due to its many scales, is stored longer. It is better to grow both forms in open ground.

When and how to plant winter garlic correctly

Winter garlic cloves are planted before winter after the vegetable harvest
crops For planting, choose the largest and healthiest bulbs - without a single spot. Small cloves are discarded, only large ones are planted. It is very important to do this on time.

• IN middle lane In Russia, planting dates are usually recommended from September 15–20 to October 5, several weeks before the onset of persistent November cold.
• Winter garlic is planted in the central regions of the Non-Chernozem Zone in the third ten days of September.
• In the Moscow region best time landings from September 25 to October 5.
• IN northern regions The dates are moved to earlier, in the south - to later.

Such planting dates are due to the fact that the teeth must take root well before the onset of persistent winter cold.

Following such advice, amateur vegetable growers often make mistakes if, at the end of September - beginning of October, after cold weather, relatively warm weather suddenly sets in. And then not only the roots, but also the sprouts begin to grow actively, and the subsequent November frosts destroy them.

If planting is delayed, the cloves do not have time to take root until the end of October and do not overwinter well. In spring, such seedlings, at best, turn out sparse and frail. To avoid mistakes, it is advisable to know a long-term and reliable weather forecast.

Planting scheme for winter garlic

Teeth same size planted in two lines. The landing pattern is as follows:

• the distance between rows is at least 20 cm;
• between teeth in a row – 8–10 cm;

The planting depth depends on the type of soil: on light soils it is 8-10 cm from the top of the clove to the soil surface, on heavy soils - 5-6 cm. Shallow planting of garlic can lead to the fact that when the temperature drops to minus 15 C, a significant part of the plants may die.

For each square meter you need 50 cloves, or 300 g of garlic (6-7 heads).

Although garlic is a cold-resistant crop, in November-December the snow “coat” is still too unreliable and thin, so it is better to insulate the bed by sprinkling it with peat, well-rotted manure or loose compost soil with a 2 cm layer.

Such mulching will serve well in early spring, as the soil will warm up faster. In addition, mulch will prevent the soil surface from forming a crust and will help conserve the moisture that garlic so needs. As a result, this technique alone significantly stimulates the development of young plants, increasing the yield by 10–15%.

How to grow winter garlic from bulbs (aerial bulbs)

Typically, aerial bulbs are used to obtain planting material - sets. One or two days before harvesting the garlic, the shoots are cut off, leaving 2–3 cm above the bulb, tied into sheaves and left under a canopy for 25–30 days.

If you plant bulbs before winter, next year they will produce single-toothed bulbs (sets), which will be the planting material.

Before sowing, the aerial bulbs are separated from the shoots by shaking and then calibrated. The smallest ones (less than 2 mm in diameter) are not suitable for sowing, since they produce very small single-toothed bulbs. It takes three years to grow them into bulbs that can be divided into cloves.

Bulbs are sown in the third ten days of September, like garlic cloves, on the beds in lines, between which a distance of 10–15 cm is left. On one square meter 8–10 g of bulblets are sown in the ridges at a depth of 3–4 cm. The crops are mulched with peat or humus with a 2 cm layer.

The next year after the emergence of seedlings, the plants are fed with nitrogen and potash fertilizers: 10–15 g ammonium nitrate and 5 g of potassium salt per 1 m2. The crops are watered, the row spacing is loosened shallowly, and weeds must be removed.

When the leaves turn yellow and dry out, the plants are dug up, single-toothed bulbs are selected from the soil, dried and prepared for autumn planting.

Single-clove onion sets are planted in the same way as garlic cloves. In the second year, normal shoots and bulbs are obtained, divided into cloves.

Growing garlic from bulbs (how to rejuvenate garlic) - video

Aerial bulbs can also be sown in spring. To do this, they are stored in a cold (2–5 °C) or warm (18–20 °C) room in sheaves, unthreshed. This way they are better preserved. Early spring sowing of aerial bulbs after cold storage results are almost no different from winter sowing.

After warm storage (18–20 °C) and early spring sowing, well-developed plants grow: growing season they last longer than plants sown in winter and cold stored. They produce large sets, but more late date maturation.

If you did not have time to sow garlic in early spring, you can do it in June. In this case, the plants do not form a bulb and continue to grow until winter. After overwintering in the soil, the next year they grow and develop in the same way as bolting garlic plants grown from cloves, but produce a smaller bulb.

How to plant spring garlic correctly in spring

Two to three weeks before planting spring garlic in spring open ground the storage temperature of planting material is reduced from 18-20 to 2 C. Immediately before planting, the heads are divided into cloves and the largest of them are selected.

After preparing the soil, it is carefully leveled with a rake, longitudinal grooves are made, the distance between their centers is 20 cm, between the cloves - 5-6 cm.

Planting depth is 2-3 cm. The teeth should be planted in the center of the groove, bottom down. Shoots begin to appear after 13-15 days.

Caring for garlic in open ground

Caring for garlic plants consists of systematic loosening to a shallow depth (4-5 cm) so as not to damage the root system, killing weeds, watering and fertilizing.

How to water garlic

During the period of active growth of garlic plants, the soil should always be moist. The lack of sufficient moisture reduces yield and reduces the number of cloves in the bulbs.

Spring garlic is more moisture-loving than winter garlic and needs watering. It is necessary to water until mid-June. But garlic also cannot tolerate waterlogging of the soil.

How and what to feed garlic after winter so it doesn’t turn yellow

The leaves of winter garlic begin to grow very early, when the snow has not yet melted everywhere. However, often instead of bright green young shoots, gardeners see pale yellow and frail ones. The reason lies in insufficient plant nutrition. To prevent garlic planted before winter from turning yellow, water your plantings in the spring with a solution of ammonium nitrate (dissolve a matchbox of fertilizer in a bucket of water).

Carry out the second feeding around mid-May. At this time, it is customary to feed the plants with a mixture of mineral fertilizers: ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium salt (10, 20 and 10 g per 1 m2, respectively).

How to water garlic in the spring so that it doesn’t turn yellow if you want to do without “chemicals”? In this case, it is better to use it for feeding organic fertilizers, for example, a weekly infusion of fresh chicken manure (compared to mullein, it contains more nitrogen).

If the plantings dry out, water the soil abundantly, starting from the third ten days of May and throughout June. I periodically loosen the ground with a hoe and weed the weeds, preventing them from growing back.

The last, third time, the garlic is fed at the end of June, when the bulbs are finally formed. Summer food is an infusion of mullein (1 liter of fertilizer is diluted in a bucket of water) or an infusion of weeded weeds growing on a compost heap, in the same concentration. You can limit yourself to feeding with superphosphate (5 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Since this fertilizer is poorly soluble in water, first boil it for 30 minutes in a mug of water, stirring frequently.

How and what to feed spring garlic

Spring garlic shoots begin to appear 13-15 days after planting. During mass germination, the soil surface must be loosened and fertilized with nitrogen fertilizer. To do this, 15 g of ammonium nitrate is dissolved in 10 liters of water and poured evenly into the grooves at the rate of 10 liters per 1 m 2. When the liquid is absorbed, the grooves are covered with dry soil.

The second fertilizing with nitrogen and potassium (potassium chloride) fertilizers should be given in the phase of formation of four leaves at the rate of 20 g per 10 liters of water.

The third feeding - potassium and phosphorus (superphosphate) fertilizers - in the seventh leaf phase - at the rate of 20 g per 10 liters of water, solution consumption 10 liters per 1 m 2. After each feeding, water the garlic.

Around the twentieth of June, garlic shoots out flower shoots, at the end of which aerial bulbs (bulbs) develop. Several of the most powerful arrows that appear first can be left for seed. The rest are gradually removed at the formation stage, when they are good as vitamin-rich greens for salads and canning.

Timely breaking out the arrows at the very base, from the axils of the leaves, increases the yield and allows you to grow large garlic.

Do I need to tie garlic after the shoots break? Practiced by some vegetable growers, tying the shoots of garlic in a knot does not give anything, since the development of the shoots does not stop, and a good half nutrients At the same time, it does not enter the bulb.

Harvesting and storing garlic harvest

A few weeks before harvest, stop watering the garlic. To determine if the garlic is ready to harvest, inspect a few bulbs, thoroughly scraping away any dirt.

When to dig up garlic planted before winter

A sign of garlic ripening is the cessation of the formation of new leaves. In non-shooting varieties, the leaves turn yellow, in shooters, the caps on the bulbs crack, dense wrappers form on the bulbs, and the head becomes ribbed.

As soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, the garlic is ripe. Now you can’t delay cleaning - if you delay, the cloves will tear the wrapper and fall apart, such heads will be unsuitable for long-term storage.

Garlic is harvested in dry weather. Ripe bulbs are dug out with a pitchfork, carefully selected from the soil and laid out in rows for several days to dry under the sun.

Then the roots and stem are trimmed with pruning shears, leaving about 1.5 cm. If the stem is shorter, the hard scales of the cloves can be damaged, and then the garlic will not be stored well.

When to Harvest Spring Garlic

Depending on the variety and weather conditions, spring garlic ripens at the end of August and September. Main signs of ripeness:

• tops lodging;
• drying of the lower leaves;
• yellowing of the upper leaves;
• death of roots (they become thin, dark).

For cleaning, you need to choose dry weather. You cannot delay harvesting, as in rainy weather garlic forms new roots and sprouts. The bulbs are dug up with a shovel or pitchfork and selected from the soil. Dry them in the air or indoors until the leaves are completely dry.

Then the bulbs are cleaned of the remnants of adhering earth, the roots and false stem are cut off 4–5 cm above the shoulders. After this, the garlic is finally dried (it should rustle when stirred) and stored.

How to store garlic in winter at home so as not to dry out

It is better to immediately process the bulk of the harvest and make preparations for the winter. The rest is stored until spring in a room where in winter the temperature is kept quite low but positive with low air humidity. The prepared heads are placed in boxes, baskets or mesh bags, and can be woven into braids.

At a temperature of 1-3 C they will remain juicy and fresh for a long time and will not germinate or dry out until spring.

Experienced vegetable growers know how to properly store garlic at home at room temperature. There are two reliable methods suitable for a city apartment:

1. Well-dried heads of garlic are placed in a canvas bag, tied and placed in a plastic bag, leaving it open.
2. Another method is to take a jar or pan, pour a 2-3 cm layer of salt on the bottom, then put in the heads of garlic and cover with salt again, etc. The top row must be covered with salt, but it should not be raw.

What can you plant after garlic next year?

Garlic can be returned to its original place only after four to five years. As an exception, this is possible, but only if the infection has not accumulated in the soil during the first year of cultivation, which is easy to check if you carefully examine the heads of garlic grown there. If it is completely healthy, without the slightest signs of any damage, you can take a chance and plant garlic in the same place next year, but no more.

It is not advisable to plant onions after garlic, since these crops are affected by the same diseases.

Here's what you can plant after garlic:

• cucumbers;
• zucchini;
• pumpkin;
• early harvested root vegetables and early cabbage;
• all legumes and green crops.

No garden is complete without a bed of garlic. This is not only a necessary seasoning, but also an invaluable assistant in the fight against flu and colds. Growing garlic and caring for it can be done by any gardener; you just need to know its preferences well and follow all agricultural techniques.

Basic growing rules

To get a good harvest of this crop, not much is required:

• high-quality and healthy planting material;
• loose fertile soil;
• timely landing;
• proper watering and fertilizing;
• compliance with cleaning deadlines.

Selection of planting material

If you are planting cloves from your own harvest from last year, then you need to choose only the best ones for seeds. large heads. They should not have double teeth or double tips - these are signs of degeneration. Teeth with external damage and traces of disease are not suitable for planting. Before planting spring garlic cloves, they need to be prepared: vernalized and germinated.

• vernalization - kept in the refrigerator (not in the freezer!) for a month;
• germination - place in a damp cloth, wrap in a bag and keep in the vegetable section of the refrigerator until the beginnings of roots appear.

The yield from prepared planting material will be higher. To disinfect it, the heads with the rudiments of the roots, disassembled into cloves, are soaked in an ash solution or in a solution of potassium permanganate. To prepare an ash solution, boil 400 g of ash in 2 liters of water for half an hour. The teeth are placed in the cooled solution for 2 hours.

To prepare a solution of potassium permanganate, a teaspoon of the drug is diluted in a ten-liter bucket warm water. Exposure time – 10 hours. The prepared cloves are planted on the beds.

Planting spring garlic in open ground

Prepared and germinated seed of spring garlic is planted in the ground in early spring.

Soil and site preparation

Growing garlic begins with preparing the soil. This procedure is carried out in the fall. The place for the plants needs a sunny place; in the shade the leaves will also grow, but you won’t get a good head. Spring garlic prefers loose, fertile light or medium loamy soils with sufficient humus content. The soil reaction should be neutral or slightly acidic.

In the fall, when digging, they add it to each square. m:

• 0.5 buckets of humus or well-ripened compost;
• 2-3 cups of ash;
• 15 g of complex mineral fertilizer.

Immediately before planting, the bed is loosened, but not dug up. It should have a flat surface so that all planted teeth are at the same level.

Then plant garlic

The correct precursors for spring garlic are very important. Plant health largely depends on them. It is best to plant spring garlic cloves after any pumpkin crops. They do not have common pests and diseases, and after harvesting the beds remain well manured, the soil is loose and fertile. Good predecessors are grains, greens or legumes. But you can return garlic to its original place or plant it after onions only after 4 years. The proximity of beds with garlic and peas and beans is undesirable. Their secretions do not like each other, and the yield of all crops will be low.

How and when to plant

Spring garlic is planted only in spring. When planted in winter, it can easily freeze. However, this representative of alliums is not afraid of frost, so it is planted as soon as the earth has warmed up to 5 degrees, but has still fully retained moisture after the snow has melted. Spring garlic grows roots better at low temperatures, so you can’t be late with planting dates. They depend not only on the growing region, but also on the weather.

Garlic is grown on almost every summer cottage. But not everyone knows the intricacies of growing technology. Quality and quantity directly depend on this harvested. It is also important to distinguish spring garlic from winter garlic, because this directly affects the planting time.

Winter garlic is characterized by high yield and large size. The disadvantages of winter garlic include a short shelf life.

Winter garlic is suitable for canning or pickling with various vegetables.

Landing dates

Garlic is planted in the fall, after the first cold weather sets in, but before the soil freezes. As a rule, this is the beginning of October - mid-November.

It is better to buy the largest garlic bulbs as planting material. Over time this will produce its own supply of garlic.

Soil preparation and crop rotation

To prepare the soil for planting winter garlic, you need to add ash and sand to the soil a few weeks before planting. Garlic grows best in well-drained soil, as it does not tolerate stagnant moisture and prefers soil with a high content of organic matter. High bed will be an ideal place for growing garlic.

The soil must be fertilized with rotted manure or high-quality compost. To do this, spread a layer of compost 3–5 centimeters thick over the entire planting area and dig it to the depth of half a spade bayonet. Like most garden crops, garlic grows best when the soil pH is between 6 and 7. If you fertilize the soil with rotted manure or compost before winter planting, further fertilization will not be needed until spring.

Crop rotation rules prohibit planting garlic in the same place more than once every five years. But often small size the site does not allow strict adherence to this rule. Therefore, it is quite possible to return garlic to its original place of cultivation, provided that an interval of 2–3 years is maintained and the correct predecessor plants are selected.

It is not recommended to plant it after onions, potatoes, carrots and other root vegetables, since their cultivation significantly depletes the soil. Not the best predecessors of garlic are nightshade crops, which can infect it with fusarium. And after legumes, cauliflower, cucumbers, zucchini and melon, garlic will feel good and delight you with a wonderful harvest.

When planting you should consider:

• The garlic bed should be illuminated by the sun at least 5 hours a day;
• Soil pH should be neutral to slightly acidic (6-7);
• Fresh manure should not be used to fertilize the soil;
• Planting material should be placed at a distance of 15 centimeters from each other, 5-7 centimeters deep.

Preparation of planting material

Additional processing of the cloves before planting has a positive effect on the quality of the garlic harvest. This serves as a preventive measure against viral, fungal and bacterial diseases.

To treat planting material, you can use special preparations sold in gardening stores (Fitolavin, Fitosporin-M, Maxim).

Using improvised means will be no less effective. For example, you can soak the teeth in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 10 - 12 hours.

You can also soak the planting material in a saline solution for 3 minutes before planting. To prepare the solution you will need 3 tablespoons table salt mix with 5 liters of water.

Good results are obtained by treating a head of garlic with a solution of copper sulfate.

Methods for planting garlic

Planting bulbs with cloves (lateral buds)

On the day of planting, it is necessary to form beds 1 to 2 meters wide. The teeth are planted at a distance of 15–20 centimeters from each other and deepened from five to seven centimeters. The weight of the cloves must be at least 4 grams. The planting site is sprinkled with a centimeter of humus on top.

Garlic should take root before cold weather arrives. That's why best time The planting period will be from early October to mid-November.

Garlic cannot be planted as a whole head. Before planting, the head is divided into single cloves.

Planting with aerial bulbs (bulbs)

To obtain a good garlic harvest, it is recommended to periodically update the planting material. In this case, small aerial garlic bulbs obtained from the peduncle - the arrows of a well-developed plant - are used as seeds. When the twisted arrow of garlic straightens, it is time to collect the seeds of the aerial bulbs.

They are planted for the winter in the year of collection, having previously been sorted and dried for a month.

The planting time and soil preparation process are the same as when planting winter garlic cloves. Before sowing, aerial bulbs are soaked in a solution wood ash for at least 12 hours. The seeds are planted at a distance of 4–6 centimeters from each other and deepened from three to four centimeters.

The covering layer of mulch should be about 2 centimeters. Spring care caring for plants coincides with care when planting with cloves.

In the first year, a single-toothed bulb (set) grows from the aerial bulbs, which will then serve as good renewed planting material. In this case, timely harvesting is very important, since ripe single-toothed bulbs are prone to self-burying. The harvesting time can be determined by the condition of the plant - the leaves begin to turn yellow and droop down.

After two years, the small aerial bulbs will grow into bulbs standard size.

Planting with single-pronged bulbs (sets)

If it is necessary to obtain very large single-pronged bulbs, sets of single-pronged bulbs are planted in the spring, in the second ten days of April.

To obtain regular heads of garlic, the sets are planted in the fall.

Before sowing, the largest, brightest and most even bulbs are selected. Seeds should be planted in rows at a distance of 10 - 12 centimeters from each other and 20 centimeters between rows. Pre-sowing preparation soil, choice of location, and planting time are the same as for aerial bulbs and cloves - from early October to mid-November.

Preparing for winter

After planting in the ground, it is necessary to cover the garlic with mulch made from a thick layer of straw or leaves. This will act as insulation, protecting the bulbs from the cycle of extreme freezes and thaws, thereby preventing the bulbs from freezing.

Care in spring and summer

In the spring, you can move the mulch aside to allow natural sunlight to warm the soil and promote growth. Once the soil has warmed and small green shoots have begun to appear, some mulch should be put back in place to control weed growth and retain moisture.

Garlic does not require a lot of watering unless the soil is very dry. How less water when watering, the more concentrated the aroma of garlic.

In summer spring and winter garlic gives arrows that need to be removed because they do not allow a good harvest.

Growing spring garlic

Spring garlic differs from winter garlic in the size and number of cloves. It is smaller and less convenient when preparing dishes. Its advantage is a longer shelf life, which allows you to use garlic throughout the cold season.

Landing dates

Spring garlic is planted after the frosts have stopped, towards the end of April, starting in the second decade.

Co-cultivation

In addition to following the rules of crop rotation, it is equally important to choose good neighbors in the garden. Neighboring plants will help resist infectious diseases and protect against pests.

Good neighbors garlic will be in all types of salads, as well as spice crops. They can be planted in one bed alternating rows.

Garlic has a beneficial effect on the growth of nightshades - it repels the Colorado potato beetle and minimizes the harm of late blight. Garlic planted next to strawberry or wild strawberry bushes increases their productivity and saves them from aphids and ants.

Garlic should not be planted next to cabbage, peas and legumes. This will slow down their development and minimize yield.

Caring for spring garlic

Caring for spring garlic involves timely feeding, regular watering, weeding and loosening the soil.

Mulching a bed of garlic allows you to reduce watering and protects the soil from drying out in the heat.

Watering and fertilizing garlic

Most active growth The green mass of garlic begins in May and lasts until mid-July. During this period, it is necessary to water the garlic beds 3 – 4 times a month. In case of heavy rain and high humidity soil, watering should not be done, since excess moisture leads to the development of fungal and bacterial diseases of the bulbs and yellowing of the leaves. In the second half of summer, watering should be significantly reduced or stopped completely.

Fertilizing should be carried out 2 times during the growing season. The first fertilizing is carried out immediately after the appearance of green shoots. To prepare the solution, add 2 cups of wood ash to 10 - 12 liters of water. You can also feed the plants with any nitrogen fertilizers. The second feeding is carried out at the beginning of the formation of the bulbs. For the second feeding, use humus or any mineral fertilizers.

Diseases and pests of garlic

To harvest a high harvest of garlic, you must follow all the rules of planting, crop rotation, care and prevention of plant diseases.

Fungal diseases of garlic include peronosporosis, black mold, black neck rot, rust, green mold, black mold-like rot, white rot.

Garlic bulbs can be affected by fungus even during storage. Affected fruits infect healthy ones. The main symptom of the disease is the appearance of wet dark spots and lethargy of the bulbs. A white coating is noticeable on the surface of the heads, which turns green over time. Further development of the disease leads to a hollow bulb. Contributes to garlic head disease elevated temperature and humidity in the storage room.

Exist fungal diseases, capable of affecting garlic not only during storage, but also in the beds.

Symptoms of the disease are:

• rapid yellowing and drying of leaves from top to bottom;
• education white plaque at the base of the bush.

Gradually the plant dies.

Prevention of fungal diseases will include compliance with crop rotation, correct predecessor plants, and periodic renewal of planting material by collecting and planting aerial bulbs.

To combat an existing disease, fungicides are used - chemicals, intended for treating seeds and combating plant fungus. Fungicide concentrate is toxic to both humans and animals.

If preference is given to an environmentally friendly product and there is no desire to treat plants with chemicals, use folk remedies.

You can treat the plants with an infusion of calendula and yarrow. To do this, pour 50 grams of chopped green plants into 1 liter of hot water. Insist for seven days. Before spraying, the infusion is diluted in water at the rate of 1 liter of infusion per 10 liters of water. The soil is cultivated before sowing and again during the period of abundant development of green mass. This treatment will be effective against white rot.

Not less problems delivered by pests of bulbous crops. Among the most common pests of garlic are onion fly, onion hoverfly, onion borer, onion thrips, onion secrecy, onion moths, onion stem nematode, root mites, four-legged garlic mite.

To protect the harvest, you need to take timely measures when the first signs of pests appear. It is recommended to treat plants with well-proven insecticides (chemical preparations designed to combat harmful insects), such as Actellik, Neoron, Dimethoate-400, Calypso and others. Each product comes with detailed instructions by application.

It is important to know when breeding bees in a summer cottage that the use of insecticides can be harmful to insects.

If you don't want to use chemicals, then you can use traditional methods pest control. Among them, we can highlight the treatment of plants with shag infusion - add 250 grams of shag and 1 tablespoon of hot red pepper to 2 liters of hot water. Leave for 3 days. Then strain the tincture and dilute it in 10 liters of water, adding 30 grams of liquid soap. This treatment will save garlic from onion flies.

Garlic storage

A cellar or basement is the best place for storage.

Winter garlic is stored in a cool room. The temperature should be from +2 to +4 degrees Celsius and air humidity should not exceed 70 percent. The shelf life is from 3 to 4 months.

Spring garlic is stored in a warm room at an air temperature of +16 to +20 degrees Celsius and a humidity not exceeding 70 percent. The shelf life is from 5 to 7 months.

Before storing garlic, you need to take care of processing the storage in advance. One of the treatment methods is fumigation of the room with sulfur dioxide. It is also necessary to remove all plant remains from last year's food supplies. This will help avoid contamination of the bulbs during storage.

The storage room for garlic should be clean and dry, with a good ventilation system. Boxes, thick cardboard boxes, finely woven baskets, old nylon stockings, fabric bags, that is, any breathable material or container, are used as storage containers.

Before placing the garlic in a container, it is important to sort through the bulbs, removing those damaged during digging. Clear the soil and leave it on the bed to dry or place it under a canopy for 4 to 5 days. Then cut off the root and stem, leaving a stick about 10 - 12 centimeters long.

During storage, periodically inspect the bulbs, selecting spoiled ones. Make sure that no moisture gets into the storage area.

If there is no special storage space, it is recommended to place the garlic in the vegetable compartment in the refrigerator.

Under no circumstances should you put garlic heads in a plastic bag, as it will quickly deteriorate. It is better to place the garlic in a paper bag and put it in the refrigerator.

To store it in an apartment, take a plywood box and place garlic in it, sprinkling layers with dry sawdust. Also suitable as containers glass jars. In this case, the garlic is sprinkled with salt and the jars are left open.

Paraffin from a melted candle allows you to extend the shelf life of garlic. To do this, dip each onion in hot paraffin. This will create a conservation effect.

Basic criteria for storing garlic:

1. Room temperature;
2. Air humidity;
3. Pre-treatment of the room.

If you need to store garlic not as planting material, but for the purpose of using it as food, then pickling, canning and salting are widely used.

In conclusion, it can be noted that garlic is not only useful product for a person, but also a good opportunity to earn monetary profit without making large expenditures of material and labor resources.

To grow this plant you do not need large area land plot and already in the first year, if you follow the growing technology, you can get a good harvest.