Warm floors are no longer a new thing. This technology is used for heating floors in apartments, private houses, offices and various other premises. Their operating principle is simple - they heat the base under your feet, as well as the air in the room, which allows you to warm up any room quite well. They are usually installed in addition to the main heating system. Installing them is not as complicated as it seems, but it is quite a troublesome task. How to make a heated floor correctly? This process will largely depend on what type of system has been chosen for installation.

Now there are three main types of heated floors, which differ in the type of coolant, and also have different technology of arrangement. However, in general they have one main advantage in common - the heating element is installed directly into the floor pie, due to which it is heated. At the same time, the air masses in the room also warm up, but near the floor the air will be warmer, while above this boundary, at the level of a person’s head, the air remains slightly cool, which allows creating optimal microclimate in the room.

On a note! In certain cases, underfloor heating can completely replace a central heating system. But this is not always possible, and you still shouldn’t give up on basic radiators.

Water based heating

In this case, the coolant is ordinary heated water, which flows inside pipes laid according to a certain pattern and filled with concrete screed. The service life of such a system is approximately 20 years. A fairly reliable and safe option, but it is used either in private homes or in new buildings where it is possible to connect such a floor. In old multi-storey buildings without permission management company It will not be possible to connect a water floor, since installation will involve connecting it to a central heating system that is not designed for additional loads - it can become very cold in other apartments.

The disadvantages of this design may be the likelihood of leaks and the risk of flooding of rooms located below, as well as the tendency of some types of pipeline to corrosion. Installation, of course, is labor-intensive, but this is one of the most economical flooring options. This type of heating can be installed under any finishing coating. However, if you want to use the capabilities of water heated floors as efficiently as possible, study the features different coatings. Find perfect option will help .

Heating with cable

Such floors can be installed in absolutely any room - be it in old or new apartments, houses, offices, etc. This option has become a real salvation for those who, for some reason, cannot install a water-heated floor. The system is quite simple to install and consists of a specially laid electrical cable located inside the screed. It converts electricity into heat.

Can be used for heating self-regulating and resistive cables. In the latter case, a two-core one is usually used (single-core ones often become sources of radiation harmful to the body, which is why they are not preferred to be used). Self-regulating wires do not have the disadvantages that resistive wires have. Typically, cable flooring is used if the finishing coating is made of tiles or linoleum.

IR floor

This is perhaps the most popular floor heating system, as it does not require pouring a new screed, is easy to install, but is not inferior in quality to other heating options. It is represented by thin mats with carbon strips connected to each other by wires. Such floors heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly (sometimes this function is needed), are very thin, allow you to quickly adjust the heating temperature, are economical in terms of energy consumption, are easy to repair and are completely safe for humans. This system also works thanks to electricity. There is a drawback - a little static and because of this - the attraction of dust to the base. Read more about infrared heated floors depending on the finish coating in separate articles on the portal: under laminate, and under tiles.

Table. Comparison of characteristics of different systems.

Characteristic	Water floor	Electric floor
Availability of EMR	No	Possibly depending on cable type
Possibility of arrangement in apartment buildings	Only in new buildings with a separate connection	Yes
Quickly manage settings	No	Yes
Dependence on heating season	Yes - in apartments and no - in private houses	No
Installation time	Long due to the need to fill the screed	Short
Possibility of laying any finishing coating	Yes	Certain types of coverings cannot be laid over an electric floor
Easy to repair	Complex repair	In the case of IR floors - quick repair

If you have not yet decided on the type of heated floor, read. There we examined in detail the advantages and disadvantages different materials and compiled a list of recommendations.

Making a warm water floor with your own hands

Let's take a closer look at the work process when installing water floor heating. It includes a number of stages - preparation of the rough base, installation of the system itself, as well as pouring the screed and laying the finishing coating. IN in this case A budget option for creating a heating system will be considered.

Warm floors are a serious cost item during renovation, so it is important to accurately calculate how much and what materials will be needed. To ease your labor costs, we have prepared a guide that tells you how to calculate a heated floor - water or electric. Online calculators included. And in the article “” you will find full list everything you might need during installation.

Preparing the base

Let's look at how to make a subfloor for installing a water system based on expanded clay.

Step 1. First of all, the old wooden floor is completely dismantled. Boards and joists are removed. Remnants of bricks and oversized construction debris may be left on the foundation.

Step 2. A laser level is used to determine the height of the final floor. The main guideline for the required level is Entrance door. The marking should be 1.5-2 cm below the threshold.

Step 3. Markings are applied to the walls. The first mark marks the boundary of the screed with the installed heating pipes (the thickness of the screed should not be less than 6 cm thick). The second indicates the thickness of the expanded clay insulation (in this case, the thickness of this layer will be 10 cm).

Step 4. Along the laser level line, marks are applied to the walls along the entire perimeter according to the level of the finished floor.

Step 5. Markings of two other levels are applied to the walls - expanded clay bedding and screed. The reference point in this case is the finished floor mark.

Step 6. The rough concrete floor is covered with sand, which is evenly distributed over it. You can focus on the lower mark.

Step 8

Step 9 Holes in the walls left from the logs are sealed with pieces of brick and cement mortar.

Step 10 Waterproofing is laid on a layer of sand. In this case, it is a thick polyethylene film that is factory-installed on the walls. For convenience, the film is fixed with tape.

Step 11 The installation of beacons begins. For this purpose, high-density foam block cubes are used, on which metal beacons will then be installed. The cubes are placed on polyethylene at a distance of about 1 m from each other. The height of one cube is 9 cm.

Step 12 Metal beacon profiles 1 cm high are installed on the cubes.

Step 13 A cube must be installed at the joints of the beacons. For proper docking, the beacons are trimmed. When docked correctly, the beacons overlap each other in the direction of the future movement of the rule.

Step 14 Beacons are set according to level. Landmark - a line on the wall indicating the height of the screed. To level them, you can use plywood pads.

Step 15 When the beacons are level, they are fixed to the cubes using self-tapping screws.

Step 16 The subfloor should have a slight slope (the difference is up to 5 mm for each meter of base length). If necessary, the cubes can be pressed into the sand to achieve the desired result. The operation is carried out along the entire length of the beacons.

Step 17 Additional cubes are installed between the main cubes.

Step 18 Expanded clay is mixed with a small amount of cement mixture. This will result in a stronger floor. A bucket of sand, 2 kg of cement and about 3 liters of water are used for a bag of expanded clay.

Step 19 The prepared expanded clay is laid out on the base and leveled. Backfilling is done starting from the far corner of the room. There should be about 1.5 cm of free space left to the top level of the beacons.

Step 20. The expanded clay layer is covered with cement mortar. The solution is leveled with a trowel over the entire surface.

Step 21 The screed is aligned using the beacon rule. Ideal evenness may not be achieved. To make the beacons easy to remove from the screed, their surface is not covered.

Step 22 After two days, when the screed has dried, the beacons are removed. To do this, the screws securing them are unscrewed. Wooden linings are removed along with the beacons.

Step 23 After this, the resulting cracks are cleared of debris and sealed with cement mortar.

Laying the pipe system and connecting

After preparation, the installation of the heating system itself begins.

Step 1. In this case, the existing heating system will be retained based on a gas boiler. The battery is powered by a supply circuit located on the second floor. The water leaving the radiator is directed to the return circuit, which is located in the basement. The warm floor will be connected to the second output of the battery and to the return circuit. Taps will be installed to turn off the radiator and heated floor. At the entrance to the return circuit there will be installed circulation pump.

Step 2. The radiator is equipped with the necessary fittings. These are connectors and pipes. Plumbing flax and sealant are used to seal the connection.

Step 3. This is what the finished battery outputs will look like. One of them will be used to connect the heated floor.

Step 4. Before further installation of pipes, a damper tape is glued around the perimeter of the room (we have already discussed its choice). She sits on the walls with glue.

Step 5. Multifoil, a special insulation material, is placed on the rough screed. Individual strips of material are fixed to each other using tape.

Step 6. A reinforcing mesh with 10x10 cm cells is placed on top of the foil. Individual pieces are overlapped by 1-2 cells. The mesh is connected to each other using wire.

Step 7 The pipe leading to the return line is installed and connected.

Step 8 A water floor pipe with a cross-section of 20 mm is mounted to the other exit from the battery. You can put a piece of protective corrugation on the initial section of the pipe.

Step 9 The pipe is laid on the floor and fixed to the reinforcing mesh using plastic clamps. When laying, it is important to ensure that there are no kinks in the pipe. To form the elbows, you can use a hairdryer to heat the pipe. The distance in the circuit between adjacent pipes should be about 20 cm in this case.

Step 10 The heated floor pipe is laid in a snake pattern.

Step 11 The ends of the return pipe and the heated floor are directed into metal pipes leading to the basement. Voids can be sealed with foam.

Step 12 The sections of metal mesh that rise above the floor level are fixed to the base of the floor using dowels and metal plates.

Step 13 Further work will be carried out in the basement. A circulation pump is being installed. It connects to the return pipe. Two taps are also installed in the system. One of them will block natural circulation. The lower valve completely closes the entrance to the return pipe.

Step 14 The control unit is assembled and all pipes are connected. In natural circulation mode, water flows through the heated floor pipe into the return line with both taps open. If you turn off the top tap, water from the heated floor will move through an additional pipe towards the pump - this is a mode for quickly warming up the floor. If the bottom tap is closed when the pump is turned off, the heated floor will be completely turned off.

Pipes connected

Filling the screed

The final stage of installing a water floor is pouring the screed and laying the floor covering.

Step 1. To make the screed even, metal beacons are installed. They are located on pieces of concrete.

Step 2. Pieces of concrete are fixed to the base using cement mortar.

Step 3. The beacons are fixed to the concrete using self-tapping screws in pre-made holes. All of them must be strictly level.

Advice! It is better to start installing the first beacons from the side of the door. This will allow you to more correctly select their height relative to the doorway.

Step 4. The concrete solution is prepared according to exact proportions.

Step 5. The concrete is evenly distributed over the prepared floor.

Important! At the time of laying the screed, the floor pipes must be filled with water.

Step 6. The concrete solution is leveled along the beacons using a rule.

Step 7 The screed is dried for 28 days. The floor is covered with a finishing coating.

Video - Installation of a water floor

Video - Installation of infrared floor heating

The complexity and entire process of making a heated floor will depend on which heating option is chosen. A water floor is perhaps the most best option for arranging base heating in a private house or new building. For those who don’t want to bother with screeds, we can recommend using infrared floors.

Wooden floors are always stylish and beautiful

Why do many people today find it difficult to choose a gender? wooden house? After all, such a house is, first of all, a choice in favor of an environmentally friendly building material. It will not only give warmth and comfort to residents, but will also contribute to the creation of natural air exchange and simply an excellent indoor microclimate. But here doubts begin: how to arrange your floors so that they are both smooth and durable - and also have an attractive appearance? appearance?

To do this, you will first have to understand what floors are, then consider the options and technology for their installation.

All floors in wooden house can be roughly classified into two groups:

1. from boards
2. made of concrete

So, let's look at them in order, how to make a warm floor in a private house on a wooden floor.

Wooden floors

The floor is like a pie of several layers, the components of which are the subfloor, thermal insulation and waterproofing layers, finishing (base), flooring(finishing). And between them you can even lay heating elements (cables or pipes) to create a heated floor system.

As a rule, floors in a wooden house are built either on joists or on pillars - if the house itself does not have a concrete foundation. Of course, with monolithic foundation everything is quite easy, and you don’t need any troubles, but if you don’t have time to pour a concrete foundation, you will have to use one of the methods for constructing a foundation on beams:

By design, there are single-layer and two-layer wooden floors. The first ones can be with or without joists - this will depend on the thickness of the boards and the spacing between the beams. When a house is built with floors on joists, the boards can be laid directly on the beams themselves, provided that the distance between the beams is no more than 0.6 m.

When installing a two-layer floor, a subfloor (base) layer is added when the beams are attached to the underside rough boards. An insulating layer is laid on them - either some kind of sheet insulation, or an expanded clay layer (layer height up to 80 mm). And for complete insulation, you can use filler, which is laid between the finished and subfloor. However, in this case, it is necessary to provide a small gap (about 2-5 cm) to create air circulation and prevent the destruction of the boards.

The need for insulation

Undoubtedly, you need any kind, both wooden and concrete. Some owners strive to maximize the insulation of a wooden floor - and do this with the help of a thick thermal insulation layer that fills the internal space between the layers of double flooring.

By the way, along with modern thermal insulation materials (mineral wool, mineral mats, polyurethane, etc.), some owners also use “old-fashioned” options: sawdust and wood shavings, dry leaves. However, both with the use of thermal insulation materials and with the use of “old-fashioned” insulation methods, a gap should be left above the thermal insulation layer - from 15 to 50 mm, so that air can circulate freely.

The need for a subfloor

As a rule, floors in wooden houses should be well ventilated and durable. For these purposes, so-called “rough” floors are constructed, which meet the following requirements:

• are a kind of rigidity frame, and also serve as a basis for laying layers of insulation, waterproofing and a finished floor
• create the necessary air gap, thanks to which heat is retained in the house, the entire structure does not rot and there are no distortions in the structure

All this contributes to the excellent preservation of the floor finish. For rough floors, unedged boards with a width of 15 to 50 cm are used, which are pre-impregnated with an antiseptic composition.

Floor installation on joists

How to make a subfloor

Some amateur builders often mistake the surfaces intended for laying floor coverings for subfloors. And they are mistaken. As a rule, bases (or in other words, substrates) are constructed using some kind of sheet material - chipboard, etc. - or with the help of boards laid on logs. Such substrates are needed specifically for leveling the surface of the base and subsequent even laying of the floor covering, as well as for uniformly distributing the load on the floor, and are used in both monolithic and wooden houses.

Another definition that explains the concept of a subfloor is considered to be the lowest layer of a two-layer plank base - this layer is used when laying on joists or floor beams, when there is a fairly wide step between the joists and beams. It is in this case that the subfloor layer - the boards - are laid diagonally relative to the finishing boards. In this case, additional strength of the overlap is achieved, which is formed due to the different directions of the wood fibers.

And a rough wooden floor in a private house is also called the lowest layer of flooring - double insulated. In this case, the board flooring simply serves as a retainer for the thermal insulation and waterproofing layers.

Insulated subfloor

First of all, it is necessary to consider the ventilation of the subfloor so that the subfloor boards do not rot and are not in constant humidity. Ventilation is very easy to arrange by drilling several holes in the joint corners of the house - round holes measuring 50-60 mm, which are then covered with decorative grilles. Grids and openings should be raised 5-6 cm above the floor level to prevent water from entering. True, in some cases ventilation holes can also be made in baseboards.

Secondly, the foundation itself must be well waterproofed. This can be done either by constructing a very good blind area, or using roofing felt, or coating waterproofing materials, of which there are also plenty on the construction market today.

Next, you will have to thoroughly treat the lower crowns, joists and boards of the subfloor itself with various antiseptic compounds in order to protect the wood from fungal infections and destruction (preparations that will protect the wood from insect attacks, as well as ordinary used machine oil, are suitable).

Laying can be done in three ways: on beam shoulders (shaped like an inverted large letter “T”), on cranial beams nailed to the edges of the beams, and also acting as beam shoulders, or in pre-prepared grooves in the beams (their shape is similar to the lying on the side with the letter “H”).

To keep the floor warm, it needs to be insulated.

The easiest and simplest way is to lay it on skull blocks, on which it is then laid waterproofing material, insulation (the best is mineral wool), vapor barrier material. After laying the vapor barrier, a finished floor is laid, which is either a tongue-and-groove board or chipboard. The finishing floor is then laid with floor covering (linoleum, laminate, etc.).

Since, according to standards, the internal temperature of the premises should not differ from the temperature from the floor surface by more than 2 degrees, it will have to be insulated very carefully. And even if you close your eyes to these standards, will it really be pleasant for you to step on cold boards?

So, what insulation should you choose? Of course, such that the weight is light, the thermal insulation qualities are high, and non-flammability and hypoallergenicity are present. And the insulation should be very easy to install, durable and strong. Mineral wool is well suited for these purposes - it does not burn, practically does not absorb moisture, and is hygroscopic. But polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam burn, although they are light in weight.

Roofing material, isoplast, polyethylene film, and PVC membranes are suitable as waterproofing.

After choosing insulation and waterproofing, you can begin installing the wooden floor on the joists. First, a subfloor is constructed, on which a waterproofing layer is laid, and thermal insulation and vapor barrier, and then you can lay and finish.

Finished flooring

Lay the finished floor on top

To lay the finished floor, a milled board is used (today there are those that are connected with tenons in grooves), with dimensions of (28-44) x (98-145) mm, with vents on the back side measuring 20 mm. The vent is designed to ensure natural air circulation.

However, if there is no milled board, you can use other options: tongue-and-groove boards, with tongue-and-groove slats, with straight, segmented and trapezoidal tenons. True, there is no air in such boards, and you have to very carefully monitor their fit on the joists. You should also remember that the boards are laid based on the growth rings of the wood - so that the rings look in different directions. After laying the finished floor, finishing can be done.

Concrete floors

WITH concrete floors everything is a little simpler: you just need to correctly make the cement screed, reinforcing it. But first, let's look at whether concrete floors are good in wooden houses?

Undoubtedly, concrete in general has a lot of advantages: it is durable, strong, reliable, and with the use of modern “tricks” in the form of self-leveling mixtures, it will generally become for you a perfectly flat floor, on which not only linoleum, but also laminate, will fit well, and ceramic tiles.

However, installing a concrete floor also has its own nuances, which include pouring concrete. How to properly pour a concrete floor in a wooden house?

There are two installation methods: laying concrete along joists and on the ground. In the first case, only high-quality, undamaged logs will be required, but the second method is easier than the first. But we will look at both methods.

Laying concrete on the ground

Having decided on the floor level, you need to make marks using a cord tied on pegs - the cord will be a kind of measure to which the concrete base will reach (about 10 cm). Next, the soil is sprinkled with a layer of gravel, so that the gravel is level with the pegs, which are then removed. Sand is sprinkled on top of the gravel layer and the layer is compacted.

Now you need to make a layer of waterproofing - take a regular polyethylene film (the thickest one possible) and lay it on the sand so that its edges are higher than the level of the future concrete floor. After waterproofing, you need to fill the already prepared base with concrete, level it, and cover the solution with film - for faster maturation, however, not forgetting to moisten it periodically. The concrete structure is not touched for about a month - this time is necessary for the concrete to gain the required level of strength. After a month of “holding” for concrete surface liquid cement is applied to create a screed.

During the winter months, cold temperatures may cause indoor temperatures to drop. Therefore, you should immediately think about heated floors - electric or water. In any case, when constructing a structure, the thickness of the floor covering should not be more than 25 mm - therefore, ceramic, laminate, and linoleum are excellent finishing options.

If we talk about in a wooden house, then it can be mounted in a cement screed or a heated floor system. In the first case, the design of the water heated floor system will be as follows:

• base (concrete on the ground);
• layer of thermal insulation (20-100 mm);
• reinforcing layer (reinforcing mesh);
• a pipe for a water heating system, secured with clamps to the cells of the reinforcing mesh (pipes are laid in increments of 100-300 mm);
• underlay for flooring;
• flooring: parquet, laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles, etc.

A water heating system on a concrete base will not only be appropriate, but necessary in rooms such as, for example, a bathroom or a children's room.

As for the flooring system of water heated floors, in addition to the reinforcing mesh, a layer of chipboard or polystyrene is added to the structure.

And if you want to install an electric heated floor, it’s even easier. It can also be mounted on joists and screeds. The electric screed is mounted in the same way as the water screed, and the joists are mounted with an air gap. In this case, the cable also needs to be laid out on a reinforcing mesh, the cell size of which does not exceed 50 x 50 mm, fixed to the logs. In the same joists, gaps should be cut (the height of the gaps is approximately 50 mm) in increments of 50 mm, which will be insulated with foil. And the heating cable itself is laid in these gaps, crossing the logs, just like metal reinforcing mesh.

Nowadays, a significant share of almost any family budget consists of payments for public utilities. In this regard, a wide variety of heating methods have become widespread, including the technology of heated floors, which will be discussed below. Whole line positive properties typical for such systems. This article will discuss how to make a heated floor with your own hands.

Warm floor is comfortable

The very idea of ​​heating a house with the help, it must be stated, is not new; this is probably due to the advantages that the result provides. When the room is heated traditional way– radiators, warm air rises to the ceiling. As a result, warm air is obtained above, cooler air below, although a person is physically more comfortable when it is the other way around. The effect when warm air is below and cooler air is above gives heating warm floors. Even if the overall outlet temperature is lower than when heating with batteries, a person will still be more comfortable. Another plus is that maintaining such a temperature will require significantly less energy, unlike the conventional heating method.

Advantages of heated floors

Of course, it is difficult to immediately install any of the systems everywhere in an apartment or house. However, if you install a heated floor, say, when renovating a bedroom, bathroom, or nursery, it will be immediately noticeable and the indoor microclimate will significantly improve. People suffering from allergies should especially pay attention to the fact that when using heated floors, convective air currents do not form, allowing dust to spread.

For owners of private houses, it will be especially important that the problem of mold and fungi will be largely solved, since heated floors reduce the level of humidity much lower. Various types of heated floors have high ergonomic and hygienic qualities. In addition, they are environmentally friendly, since electromagnetic radiation is not generated during their operation.

Existing options

There are three main ways to heat a home using underfloor heating: electric, water and infrared. Everyone has characteristics. Let's tell you more about each of them.

Water heated floors

Operating water floors will be cheaper. After approximately five years of operation and maintenance, water systems not only pay for themselves, but their costs will also be half as much. A significant portion of spending on utilities is saved due to the fact that regular costs with heated floor technology are 25–30% lower than with traditional heating. Water floors require a major installation.

Water heated floor

People familiar with the principle of operation of a heated towel rail will not need to look for the answer to the question: how to make a warm floor from heating? Supplied into the pipe hot water, exactly the same as what circulates in central heating pipes and radiators.

Electric cable heated floors

Electrical systems are easy to install and can be easily installed under flooring. This process is cheaper than installing water floors.

In addition, electric underfloor heating is the most popular type of heating of this kind.
High energy costs make operating such a floor not the cheapest.

Infrared heated floors

Infrared heated floors are a product that appeared on the construction market not so long ago, but have already become very popular among buyers. After all, it is easy to install without the help of specialists and does not require special care.

Warm floor

This floor has a simple design. Essentially, these are thin metal wires located at a close distance from each other and hermetically sealed with a moisture-resistant film. The heating elements are connected to the electrical network, then a thermostat is installed, with which the temperature is set desired temperature floor.

Infrared floors come in two types: rod and film. In the first case, thin carbon rods are inserted into the film and connected with wires, and in the second, thin metal strips are used.

The main advantage is that before installation there is no need to specially prepare the floor: level it, pour screed - they will work on any surface.

Using a thermostat, you can easily regulate the temperature in the room - turn off the floor during a thaw and quickly heat the room in the event of a sudden cold snap.

Unlike radiators and heaters, IR floors do not dry the air, so you do not have to install an additional humidifier in the room.

This floor even has some therapeutic effect. After all, it emits negatively charged ions, which help treat some chronic diseases.

But such floors also have disadvantages. They consume a lot of electricity, and in the cold season their operation can hit family budget. The film is also a very fragile material; it can be easily damaged by slight mechanical stress. Experts call a high fire hazard a serious disadvantage of such floors. If the floor is not installed correctly, it may catch fire.

Installation features

Rules for the cable version

In electrical systems, special heating elements transfer heat due to their high heat output. The system includes: a heating cable, a temperature sensor and a thermostat, which is usually sold separately from the system. The heating cable is installed under the cement screed, and the floor covering is mounted on top. An electric heated floor also necessarily requires a project that will be drawn up and executed in a professional manner, taking into account calculations for all indicators.

Floor level needs to be raised

The heating cable (flat or round) is the most important element of the entire structure. Flat floors are used as elements of heated floors, called film floors. This floor is more efficient as the flat configuration increases surface area heating element. Thanks to this configuration, the temperature over the floor surface is distributed more evenly, which makes it possible to lay the laminate directly on the film. Film floors are the most economical.

There is one feature that needs to be taken into account when installing these structures - they require raising the floor level. In principle, if the dimensions of the room allow, this is not important. However, if the ceilings are not particularly high, the best option is a heated film floor, which has almost no effect on the level of the floor.

Installation of infrared film floor

Before you go to the store, correctly calculate the floor area. Please note that the heated floor contour is not placed throughout the room, but only on open areas where there is no large furniture. This floor can be installed under any covering – carpet, laminate or linoleum.

When you have decided exactly where the floor will lie, you can proceed to its installation. To do this, place a heat-reflecting screen on the screed. It will direct the spread of UV rays upward and prevent the ceiling of the neighbors below from heating up. The screen is fixed with tape, and then the film is laid on it metal elements down.

Warm floors cannot be placed under furniture

The film is placed in sections, so all its parts need to be connected to each other with clips and wires to complete the circuit. When the wires are connected and insulated, the thermostat is connected to a separate outlet.

Usually to infrared floor Attached is a diagram strictly according to which the connection should be made. But if you do not understand electricity, it is better to invite a specialist. After connecting, you need to check the operation of the system and only then apply the coating.

Infrared floors are considered an excellent alternative to central heating radiators and electric heating devices. After all, such a floor “works” over the entire area of ​​the room, which means the room heats up faster and more evenly. But when incorrect installation and operation, such a floor can become a serious source of danger. Therefore, if you are not sure that you can install it correctly, it is better to seek help from specialists.

Water floor heating system

When installing water heated floors, it is advisable to resort to the services of a specialist. It's quite difficult engineering system, which requires a special project for each room, paying attention to its features. Professionals will install the system taking into account all requirements, which will ensure its reliable operation for many years. It involves dismantling the floor covering, but water-heated floors can be installed under tiles or laminate.

Water heating

However, if you have some knowledge and skills, installing the system yourself will not be difficult.

A water heated floor is also called a heated floor, because it works on exactly the same principle as central heating in city apartments.

In order for water to circulate in the heated floor circuit, a slope of its level should be provided, and to avoid the associated inconveniences, you can install a circulation pump: this is a device that “helps” water move in the pipes.

Before installing the system, you need to prepare the surface. To do this, the entire covering is dismantled, a concrete screed is created and leveled to the building level.

Before forming the screed, a damper tape is installed along the walls (like a plinth), the essence of which is to protect the concrete from temperature fluctuations when the structure heats up and cools down. The height of the tape should be higher than the concrete screed. Currently, you can buy tape with an adhesive layer, and if gluing is not possible, attach it to nails.

The next layer, on top of the concrete screed, is insulation (thermal insulation), because we make a heated floor not to heat the ceiling of our neighbors, but for the comfort of our loved ones. The insulation (metalized layer) can be either thick or thin, if the height of the ceilings does not allow, but it must be laid in a joint, without unevenness.

In order to avoid fastening the heating cable with wire, it is installed on special plates with “windows” where the cable itself is placed. You should have an idea in advance of how the heating element will be laid: it can be laid in a spiral from the center to the periphery or laid in a snake. During the installation process, it is important to ensure that there are no unheated areas so that being in the room being repaired is comfortable.

A layer of concrete screed is mounted on top 6 cm above the pipes.

So, which heated floor to choose and what to follow is a matter for each owner, the main thing is that three main principles are taken into account: comfort, safety and compliance with the financial capabilities of the family.

How to make the floor in a bathhouse warm without rotting. How to make the floors in the bathhouse warm

How to make a warm floor in a bathhouse 🚩 Waterproofing the floor in a bathhouse 🚩 Repairing a summer house

Since ancient times, people have gone to the bathhouse for health and the pleasures that come from cleansing the body with water and hot steam. In Rus' there has always been a particularly reverent attitude towards baths. In the villages, not even the wealthiest family now has its own bathhouse. There are certain rules and secrets for building a bathhouse. A very important point is laying the floor in the bathhouse. Some people make the floor cold, but for greater comfort and heat savings it is recommended to make the floors warm, although this is a more complex and costly process.

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You will need

• Sand, roofing felt, cement, polystyrene foam, reinforcing mesh with 100×100 mm cells, wooden flooring boards or tiles, depending on your wishes.

Instructions

When starting to install a heated floor in the steam room, you need to dig a pit about half a meter deep. Remove the earth, compact the walls and bottom of the pit, and evenly distribute a layer of sand about 5 cm on it. Place foam sheets on the sand, fitting them tightly. The thickness of the sheets must be at least 200mm. Do not throw away scraps and fragments of foam plastic; they will be useful for preparing cement pouring.

Apply a layer of cement and sand mortar on top of the foam. It is mixed in a one to one ratio. Foam chips should be added to the solution.

Now roofing material or its equivalent should be laid on top of the layer in two layers to waterproof the floor in the bathhouse. Pour another layer of cement mortar five centimeters thick on top of the roofing felt. This time add vermiculite to the solution.

Lay the reinforcing mesh, fill with a layer concrete mortar, mixed with fine crushed stone. After this, you can lay the top layer of the floor.

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note

When laying floors, do not forget to make a slope of up to five percent towards the sewer drain so that water does not stand on the warm floor of the bathhouse.

Helpful advice

Bathhouse floors thermally insulated in this way do not need to be covered with wood, which needs to be replaced every few years. You can lay tiles and throw wooden grates on top of them.

Sources:

• heated floor in the bathhouse

Nothing compares to a sauna built with your own hands. This is not just a hygienic room where you can wash off the dirt, but a real home health resort. That is why everything in it must be built so that it corresponds to this proud name. Including the floor must be laid according to all the rules so that it does not violate the “spirit” of the bath (no cement or tile coverings in the steam room).

Instructions

When installing a floor in a bathhouse, you need to solve several issues: 1. design of the drainage system, i.e. water drainage;2. selection quality material and flooring;3. arrangement of ventilation (so that in the intervals between bath procedures the floor was dry).

To solve the first question, first remove the black soil over the entire area of ​​the bathhouse. In the washing compartment, make a platform with a slope in one direction and arrange a pit - a recess. To remove water from the pit, lay a pipe and bring it out under the foundation.

As flooring material, use coniferous wood, boards with a thickness of at least 30mm. First you need to lay out the brick pillars. They will be supports when laying the floor joists. To do this, make a bedding of sand on the prepared site and lay out columns of red brick and mortar at the height of laying the logs, and perform waterproofing.

Lay the wooden logs on brick posts and nail the floorboards, pre-cut to size, to them. Before laying, the boards are planed on three sides (front and sides). This is done so that, firstly, it is pleasant to walk on them with bare feet, and secondly, so that the water drains without lingering on the surface of the boards. This will prevent them from getting wet and subsequently rotting. Sew the boards with a gap of 5-7mm between them, which will also ensure rapid drainage of water under the floor into the pit. Lay and secure the plinth along the walls on the floor.

Now to the question of ventilation. From above, the floor in the bathhouse will dry out when the ventilation hole located in one of the walls is opened (its size is 15x15cm, the normal position is open, closed only when washing). From below, to ventilate the floorboards, arrange a box in the corner of the bathhouse, one end of which is lowered to the level of the bottom bed of boards, and the other end is brought to the roof of the bathhouse. The box can be wooden or made of tin. In the latter case, cover it with the same material that lined the inside of the bathhouse. Your bathhouse floor is ready!

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Sources:

• Building a bathhouse with your own hands in 2018

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air heating system + Video

How to organize a heated floor in a bathhouse? What features should you know in advance and what should you avoid? All this is in our article!

The bathhouse will be much more comfortable if your feet do not freeze in the dressing room. Agree that this happens quite often, when the heated floor is only in the steam room, but in the dressing room the cold hits your legs. But this can be avoided.

Features of the floor arrangement in the bathhouse

A bathhouse is a very specific room, which is characterized high humidity and temperature. In this case, water is collected or drained over the entire surface of the floor. This also adds a requirement for the materials used in finishing. Preference is given to wood, but tiles are also acceptable. And what’s especially depressing is wood, which is a fairly good heat insulator.

Based on such a rigid framework, organizing a heated floor in a bathhouse is a multifaceted task, but has several implementation options.

1. Common heated floor. This is the most expensive option. To do this, lay the heat exchanger circuit with your own hands over the entire area of ​​the bathhouse (excluding the steam room), according to all the rules, i.e. with a layer of insulation. A screed is poured on top, with a slope to drain water, and ceramic tiles are laid. The advantages of this method are that there is no differentiation of premises during the construction process. Everything is done the same way. But there are quite a lot of disadvantages:

• Extremely large investment in non-residential premises;
• Wet tiled floors with a slope are more dangerous;
• Monstrous inertia of the system. Warming up such a layer of screed will take longer than heating a firebox in a bathhouse;
• There is a danger of defrosting the system in winter if it is turned on irregularly;
• The need to allocate a separate corner to accommodate the heating system and control the water heated floor.

Conclusion: such floors are good for use in a large bathhouse, if not public, then corporate. In private housing construction, for an ordinary person this option is very burdensome

1. Differentiated approach. In this case, you create two systems with your own hands that work independently: one heats the floor in the dressing room, the other in the washing compartment. This option is a priori better, because it allows you to solve problems of different levels of complexity independently. In particular, in the dressing room, infrared heated floors are quite appropriate, given that the humidity level there, although high, is an order of magnitude lower than in the washing department. In the bathhouse itself, creating a heated floor system faces a number of inconveniences, in particular:

• The thermal conductivity of wood and expanded clay is the same, i.e. these are equally good heat insulators;
• Tiled floors imply a general slope and require a fundamentally different approach when installing a sewer system in a bathhouse. Laying ceramic tiles impossible on a wooden base in rooms with high humidity and temperature. This means that it is necessary to organize a full-fledged “floor pie”, with excavation of soil to a depth of 60-70 cm.

In this article, we are trying to limit ourselves to considering personal baths. And these are used a couple of times a week. This means that the floor heating will be turned on a couple of times a week. And this is fraught with defrosting the system. In other words, a water heated floor in a personal bathhouse is very unprofitable. The same can be said about cable heating elements. In any case, they will be in the screed, which means the inertia of heating will not allow you to sincerely enjoy the delights of a heated floor.

The best solution to the problem

In a private bathhouse, it is much more pleasant to have a wooden floor under your feet. But the destructive effects of dampness are detrimental to wood. At the same time, heated floors in the bathhouse simply attract with their comfort. But there is a way out that allows the integration of one type of equipment to immediately obtain maximum benefit, in particular:

• Warm floor;
• Dry underground space;
• Drainage through leaking floors;
• Minimum capital investment.

All this is possible when organizing air floor heating. And another important advantage is the ability to organize uniform heating of the entire floor covering.

First you will need to organize the correct collection of water in the underground space. Therefore, the whole process will consist of the following steps:

1. Organization of reinforced screed with a slope;
2. Laying lags;
3. Installation of heating system elements;
4. Installation of flooring.

An important principle in creating a screed is its waterproofness and slope. Ensuring a uniform slope exactly at the level of the screed will make it possible to install floors without a slope, in which water will flow between the boards. Such floors are safer.

Screed organization

The screed will be organized immediately under the entire bathhouse. The slope that must be maintained for natural water collection is 30‰. That is, 3 cm per linear meter. It is recommended to drain in the center of the building. With this approach, it will be possible to avoid too large differences between opposite walls. For example, in a 4x5 m bathhouse, the height difference can be either 15 and 12 cm, or 7.5 and 6 cm, depending on the location of the drain hole.

The height of the floor of the underground space is not required to be too high; the minimum clearance will be 20 cm (along the walls). The pipe outlet to the septic tank is located in the center of the building. The pipe head is brought to the expected level and plugged. Before pouring the screed, you need to pour a cushion of a layer of sand - 5 cm, and a layer of crushed stone - 10 cm. Any sand can be used, it is poured in an even layer and compacted well. But crushed stone is required with low flakiness and a fraction of 20-30 mm. The crushed stone is filled from the center to the edges. In this case, the required slope must be taken into account.

IMPORTANT: The slope must be created by properly filling with crushed stone! In order to maintain the required degree, you can mark horizontal markings on the corners of the foundation. Crushed stone is also compacted, but this should be done without fanaticism.

The screed will be organized with a spill. That is, waterproofing is not provided between the crushed stone and the screed, and part of the solution will go into the lower layers. To minimize losses, the solution is mixed thick. The thickness of the screed is at least 5 cm. To calculate the required amount of ingredients, it is assumed that 1 m2 of screed, 5 cm thick, weighs ≈ 72 kg. It will require 16 kg of cement, 48 kg of washed river sand and about 8 liters. water.

To increase waterproofing properties, for every 10 liters. add 1 liter of water. liquid glass!

Additionally, it is necessary to include polypropylene fiber in the solution. This component is used for dispersed reinforcement, but in addition it will give the finished surface exceptional smoothness.

After pouring the screed, you should wait 1.5-2 days and iron the surface. To do this, it is sprayed with 10% liquid glass solution, and then sprinkled with a thin layer of cement. Then, it is thoroughly rubbed into the screed using grout. This operation will qualitatively increase the strength of the entire structure.

The time for complete maturation of the screed is 4-5 weeks. During this time, it must be sprayed with water daily and protected from direct sunlight.

Laying lags

A larch beam measuring 10 by 20 cm is perfect for bath logs. Before installation, it must be covered with two layers of drying oil. The beam is laid with a narrow edge on the ledge of the foundation. It is fixed with corners. Special strength is not required, because after installing the floor covering, the entire system will be monolithic and motionless.

The laying step is calculated based on the thickness of the floorboards. For a bathhouse, the optimal choice would be a 30 mm thick board. This means that the step between the logs should be 45-50 cm.

Heating system installation

The floor heating system will consist of a heat gun and a network of air ducts fixed to the joists. At the bottom of the pipes, it is necessary to drill holes ᴓ12-15 mm, in increments of 20 cm. The pipes are fixed with mounting clamps to the bottom of the beam. Flexible air ducts must be at least 12 cm. Almost all of them are designed to work with hot air. To connect them together, appropriate fittings are used: tees, nipples, diffusers. Therefore, it is better to purchase everything at once from one manufacturer.

The heat gun is installed with your own hands in the attic, and it is also discharged there central pipe air duct. Placing the gun above the ceiling will serve as additional protection from noise. The choice of a heat gun should be determined by the presence of several operating modes and the shape of the outlet. In terms of performance, even something as simple as “Energoprom TPE-3 MKR” produces more than 40 l/s. And the air heats up to 40°C when operating in the weakest mode.

Flooring installation

Larch is ideal for the floor in the bathhouse. It will cost a little more than pine, but in terms of durability, it has no rivals. In addition, the rule should be taken into account: the wood of the joists and the flooring must be of the same species. Edged boards, 30x100 mm. The use of boards 10 cm wide is more preferable than 150 mm. They will be located more often, and there will be more gaps between them.

When laying, a gap of 5-7 mm must be maintained between each element. It will serve not only to drain water, but also to raise warm air. To maintain such a clear boundary, the easiest way is to use crosses for styling tiles.

Before laying the flooring, prepare the drain pipe. Remove the plug, treat the perimeter of the pipe with silicone sealant and place a protective grill on the head.

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How to make the floor in a bathhouse warm without rotting with your own hands

A bathhouse is a small structure whose walls are usually made of wood or brick. Most important elements baths is the floor. After all, drainage is carried out through it, so the coating in this room requires the most attention. This material contains useful information that answers the question of how to make a floor in a bathhouse with your own hands. We will look at what materials should be used to make a covering, and what is best to choose for a certain area. We will also consider the question of how to build a heated floor so that it does not rot.

Which coating is better to choose?

Today in private homes you can find two types of baths:

• brick;
• wooden.

If on your site there will be a compact log house with a steam room and a dressing room, then the right decision will make a warm wooden floor. The work to create a pre-timber foundation is cheap, and no lengthy construction is required. Wooden floors have their drawbacks - high humidity and temperature lead to rotting of the wood. Of course, such a bathhouse is only suitable for summer holidays.

The first step is to find out what it will be future construction. If you want to eventually get a full brick bathhouse, which will include, in addition to the steam room, a relaxation room, a washing room and a dressing room, then it’s worth choosing concrete structure. You can enjoy such a bath both in winter and summer. For concrete base special requirements are put forward - the presence of drainage and waterproofing.

Wooden base for a bath

So, you have decided to make a wooden heated floor. The following trees are suitable for this purpose:

• fir;
• many types of pine trees;
• larch.

The base is made of beams and boards. Thanks to the advent of special impregnations, you can make the floor in such a way that it does not rot. Typically, wood is impregnated with resin, due to which the “working life” of boards and beams is noticeably increased. Another plus is the availability healing properties from essential oils, which appear when wood is heated.

You can make a leaky or non-leaky floor with your own hands. The first option is designed in such a way that there are narrow gaps between the boards through which excess moisture is removed. To prevent the floor from rotting, the base is installed on pillars. Because wooden sauna designed for summer period, the liquid is quickly absorbed into the soil.

As for the non-leaking base, it has a slope towards the drain, along which the liquid goes into the sump. A non-leakage structure is usually built on a concrete screed. This option is more difficult to implement, and it is quite difficult to ensure that the floor does not rot.

How is the underground constructed?

If you have chosen a leaky floor, then it is worth finding out the characteristics of the soil on which the future bathhouse will stand. First of all, you need to find out what filtration properties the soil has on your site. If the structure will stand on sand, then only a layer of gravel 25 cm thick will be needed. Before entering the ground, the runoff will be filtered through gravel. Important: there should be at least 10 centimeters between the upper plane and the supporting logs.

The soil under the structure may also have minimal filtration characteristics - sandy loam, loam, and clay. In this case, you need to make sure there is a drainage pit, from where the liquid will be discharged outside the bathhouse. Craftsmen make a clay castle that slopes towards the pit. If possible, it is better to take concrete for these purposes. It is more suitable for insulating material.

Also, the floor is covered with expanded clay insulation without leakage. It is important that there is a gap of about 15 cm between the logs and the insulating layer. With this design, a pit is required, which is made in the washing compartment of the bathhouse. Its bottom and walls must be thoroughly covered with clay.

• During the installation process you will have to open the coating several times. After this, they must be treated with a special antiseptic for wood.
• Wooden floors are famous for their sound when walking. If you want to avoid this feature, it is recommended to place a sound-absorbing layer under the joists. This could be “Vibrostek-M” - gaskets with a thickness of 4 mm and dimensions of 100 × 100 mm must be cut out of it.
• The boards must be laid in such a way that liquid is removed from the floor across the boards.
• The beams must be 100% dry before they are laid into the structure. Otherwise, after drying, gaps may form - they will not only spoil the appearance of the coating, but will also cause inconvenience.
• The underground space must be thoroughly ventilated; for this, a gap with a thickness of about 150-180 millimeters must be made between the internal backfill and the subfloor.

Concrete floor

Have you chosen a large brick building? Then, in order for the floor to be warm at any time of the year, you need to choose a concrete base, which can be covered with tiles and added aesthetics. The first step is to take care of a layer of gravel with a thickness of 140-160 millimeters. Further work is performed as follows:

1. After the gravel, a concrete layer is laid.
2. The next step is laying a vapor barrier for future tiles.
3. Next comes insulation and waterproofing.
4. They are covered with another concrete layer.
5. The last stage in making a concrete floor is cement strainer, which serves for alignment.

What the coverage will be depends on the preferences of the owners. Warm floors made from tiles are considered the most successful, as they perfectly insulate the warm floor and look nice.

Features of concrete pavement

Floors made of concrete and tiles also have their own specific features, for example, a pit with a pipe connecting the structure to a sewer well. The concrete base made of ceramic tiles has the following features:

• It is necessary to prepare a shutter for the receiving edge of the pipe in case the wastewater is directed to the sewer or septic tank. Of course, there are many options for shutters on the market, but it’s worth paying attention to the “folk” method - a rubber ball that floats up and down.
• If the base system of concrete and tiles is designed in such a way that wastewater flows into the ground under the building, then it is necessary to equip the base with vents. Great option will asbestos pipes. Tile floor vents will eliminate unpleasant odors.

The concrete layer must be carefully insulated so that the warm tile floor does not crack in the future. For this, craftsmen take roofing felt, bitumen, and in some cases use polyethylene film.

jsnip.ru

How to make the floor in a bathhouse warm

A cold floor in a bathhouse is not uncommon! This problem is especially unpleasant in winter - it’s cold outside, and then your feet get cold in the bathhouse. This is where the need arises to make the floor in the bathhouse warm. I had a similar problem. And having conceived a major overhaul, I set out to somehow solve it.

Searches on the Internet did not lead to anything; there were mainly tips to install electric floor heating in the bathhouse, which absolutely did not suit me. I had to remember the laws of physics.

I have a homemade metal stove installed in my bathhouse, which is understandable, since it heats up quickly, is relatively unpretentious and quite durable.

Of course, it also has disadvantages: there is a danger of getting burned and it cools down quickly after stopping the fire. In addition, when the fire is fired, it becomes very hot, so it’s impossible to be near it, I’ll walk away a little cooler. It heats the room mainly due to radiation, and convection is less pronounced, so the air in the room is heated unevenly.

The hottest zone is raised above the floor level by 40–50 cm, therefore the lower layer of air, directly above the floor, warms up with a great delay, which is why the floor does not heat up well.

Hence the conclusion: the heating zone must be lowered as low as possible, ideally even below the floor level, then heating above the floor and the floor itself will heat up faster and more evenly. This can be done if the stove is installed in a pit, then all the cold air will tend to the stove, and the heated air will evenly fill the room. But it is irrational to build a large pit, since in this case it becomes inconvenient to heat, light and, in general, maintain the stove. And so it was decided to install the stove on a concrete base, on which they rested wooden joists floor, that is, deepen the stove in the bathhouse only partially by 15–20 cm and build a screen around its perimeter from brick placed on a narrow edge, 1/4, and the height is equal to the stove, leaving a gap of 5–7 cm on the sides. The gap between the screen and the oven serves as a kind of channel for heated air; it provides a powerful convection flow of hot air.
In order for the air to be heated from the very base, openings of ¾ of a brick are left at the bottom of the brick screen, in the corners. This ensures access of cold air from the concrete base itself, that is, essentially from the underground. In the corners of the room in the floor for better air circulation, 4 holes were made with a ring crown through which air enters the subfloor and the stoves.
Now let's take a quick look at how it all works. When the oven heats up, the air in the gap between the oven and the screen begins to warm up, and very quickly. According to the laws of physics, it moves upward, and in its place comes a cooler one from under the floor. This creates intense air circulation, including the underground space. In addition to quick and uniform heating of the bathhouse (including such a task as making the floor in the bathhouse warm), such a heating device provides enhanced ventilation of the underground, which significantly extends the service life of the floor.

In addition, the brick screen plays the role of a heat accumulator, since it heats up well from the stove and gives off heat for a long time after the end of the fire. And at the same time it protects against burns, because it makes it impossible to accidentally touch the stove.

I built such a system in a bathhouse 5 years ago and am very pleased with its performance!

smogem-sami.ru

How to make the floor in a bathhouse warm

How to make the wooden floor in a bathhouse warm and the boards not rot. For a very long time this question haunted me, as did many other owners of wooden baths.

Some argued that the floors should be made as low to the ground as possible, others, on the contrary, higher. Someone advised making the floors oak or larch - they will never rot.

For inquiring minds, I’ll explain why neither one nor the other is worth doing.

A low floor will definitely rot, as there will always be dampness (and smell) underneath it. The tall one will be cold, since the space underneath will not warm up.

Oak and larch are generally not suitable for bathhouses. Oak because of its specific smell, and larch because of the structure of the wood, which, when frequently wet and dry, can form long, thin and very strong splinters.

The solution to the problem turned out to be simple, like everything ingenious, and it was not in the floors, but in the sauna stove.

It is in it that one small gadget will warm up and dry the floors, and also rid the bathhouse of dampness under the floor and, accordingly, the smell of this dampness.

The essence of the issue is that a hood is being made from the underground. Not natural circulation according to the plinth windows, namely a powerful hood, also natural, by the way.

I won’t “pull the cat by the tail”; such an exhaust hood is created by an additional blower device in the oven, which is located below the floor level and is equipped with a damper damper.

Actually, I still don’t understand why a damper is needed on an additional blower. It never closed for me, it only created a threat to my legs, so I removed it completely, but I will show you the way I saw such a stove in the first place.

Well, if the stove is direct-fired, then it definitely doesn’t need a damper.

The additional ash in this furnace does not deserve its name, since in fact it is the main one, since a conventional ash with this design only serves to clean the grate and remove ash.

And there is a good hood coming from under the floor. Warm air from the bathhouse, which with a conventional stove cannot be driven down to the floor, forcibly penetrates into the subfloor and heats and dries the floor boards.

After all the pleasures of the bath, the hood prevents moisture from lingering in the underground for a long time, as a result of which the floor boards last much longer.

In the iron sauna stove The exhaust power can be significantly increased if, as an additional blower, a pipe d 100-120 is brought under the floor and passed through the firebox into the main chimney.

The pipe will heat up in the firebox and pull from the underground no worse than a vacuum cleaner.

I wish you some light steam.

Section Construction >>>Subsection Bathhouse>>>

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How to make a warm floor in a bathhouse, insulating a bathhouse floor with your own hands, video

Everyone who decides to acquire such a structure dreams of having a heated floor in a bathhouse. Such a bathhouse creates additional comfort and coziness for the visitor. Not everyone wants to stand barefoot on a particularly cold surface in autumn and winter. In addition, this can lead to colds, especially in children.

If the bathhouse has cold floors, this will create additional waste of energy to warm it up. To prevent this from happening, before insulating the floor in the bathhouse, it is advisable to carefully consider all options at the design stage.

How to insulate the floor of a wooden bathhouse

If you are planning a wooden bathhouse, then you can insulate its floors in a simple and unpretentious way. This option will probably be the cheapest and it is called insulating the floor in a bathhouse using joists.

For convenience, the foundation of the bathhouse can be placed on a columnar foundation. This will create an additional ventilation zone for the flooring (underground), which will significantly increase the service life wooden bath.

Throughout the entire area that the room will occupy, pillars with a height of 0.4 to 0.5 m are installed on a pre-leveled surface. They are made of brick or cinder block. First, a hole measuring 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 m is made under the post and filled with 100 mm of crushed stone. The crushed stone is carefully compacted.

The interval between the columns is 1.5 - 2.5 mm; they will take the entire load at the intersection of the load-bearing beams. Placed on posts wooden beams and between them along the lower cut a beam of 40 x 40 mm is filled. The subfloor boards will rest on it.

Important to remember! Load-bearing beams (joists) and subfloor boards must be treated with antiseptic and water-repellent compounds. For this you can use PINOTEKS and drying oil.

The subfloor boards are laid between the beams and secured with nails or self-tapping screws, two on each side. The insulation will be placed in the trough obtained in this way. The floor, which will be located in the washing room, must have a slope of 5 to 10 degrees. This is necessary for withdrawal Wastewater V cesspool or sewer.

Before laying the insulation, be sure to lay a layer of vapor barrier. This can be 0.2 mm thick polyethylene film, glassine or roofing felt. The modern material “Hydrobarrier” is ideal for these purposes. It represents a polyethylene film reinforced with nylon thread.

The material is spread on the floor between the joists and secured with a stapler or small nails. Now you can lay the insulation.

What are the types of thermal insulation materials?

To insulate the floor of a bathhouse, you can use the following heat insulators:

•  Mineral or basalt wool
•  Foam plastic with a thickness of 50 mm or more
•  Expanded clay granules

All these materials have low thermal conductivity due to the fact that they retain a large number of air. However, expanded clay is much heavier than the first two thermal insulators.

It is important to know! The above materials retain their qualities as long as they remain dry.

Thermal insulation is laid between the beams and covered with a layer waterproofing film. It can also be polyethylene or Hydrobarrier film. Fasten it carefully to the beams with a stapler.

From above they perform finishing flooring from a floorboard. They are tightly fitted to each other to minimize moisture seepage onto the waterproofing layer. The boards are not laid flush against the walls. It is necessary to leave a gap of 10-15 mm, which will allow the space under the finished floor to be ventilated and will not allow the boards to deform during swelling and linear expansion.

The gap is hidden with a wooden plinth, which is attached to the walls with nails. To prevent snow from getting into the underground space and cold winds from blowing in, it is sheathed with boards around the perimeter. The boards are pre-impregnated with antifungal compounds and painted on top. The heated floor for the wooden bathhouse is ready.

How to insulate a stone floor

If the bathhouse is brick, then the foundation must be serious. As a rule, the floor in such buildings is made of concrete and covered with tiles. Concrete itself is a cold material and does not have sufficient heat-insulating properties.

To make the floor of a stone bath warm, forced heating systems are used. It is worth noting that this causes additional energy costs. However, the comfort you will receive will justify the cost.

A warm floor for a bath can be used various principles heating:

•  Use of resistive cable
•  Use of water heated floor
•  Film infrared floors

All of them are laid on a concrete or sand-cement screed prepared with slopes and sewage drains. The resistive cable, as well as the water-heated floor tubes, are laid out in a certain order like a snake. The infrared floor is so thin that its strips are rolled out onto the screed, connected, and you can safely lay glue and tiles on them.

The warm water floor system has a thermostat that regulates the flow through servo valves. warm water into the contours of the floor. The temperature of the resistive, heated floor is regulated by an electric thermostat.

Typically, in a bathhouse, the regulators are located in a convenient place for access in the dressing room. By the time visitors undress, the floor will already have time to warm up. After checking the functionality of the heating systems, they are covered with a layer of screed. When the screed has set after 21 days, a finishing coat of tiles is placed on it.

sdelai-pol.ru

How to make a heated floor in a bathhouse with your own hands

When discussing how to insulate a bathhouse so that it is truly hot and retains heat for a long time, sometimes we do not immediately come to the decision that for this it is necessary to install a heated floor in the bathhouse using thermal insulation materials. Sometimes this is enough to heat the room. In addition to comfort, heated floors help the bathhouse floor dry faster, which prevents the appearance of fungus.

Ultimately, human health depends on the temperature of the floor in the bathhouse: warming up on a shelf in a steam room at a temperature of 80-100 on a cold floor is a rather serious test for the human body due to stress from a sharp temperature difference. You should install a heated floor in the bath not only in the steam room, but also in the washing room and in the relaxation room.

The floors in the bathhouse are made of wood and concrete. General principles floor insulation in both cases is the same, but there are some differences.

Wooden floor insulation

Let's look at how to insulate a wooden bathhouse floor. If the bathhouse already has a wooden floor, but it is cold, then creating a new warm floor in the bathhouse should be done by dismantling the old wooden flooring.

Skull blocks are nailed to the lower parts of the beams, which will then open, onto which the vapor barrier material is laid. Vapor barrier is necessary to ensure sufficient humidity in the steam room to minimize steam loss.

As such, you can use glassine, roofing felt or sheet foam. Next, a subfloor is laid over the vapor barrier and its entire area between the beams is covered with thermal insulation material, on top of which a layer of waterproofing is laid. It is needed to protect against moisture. To guarantee it, it is laid with an overlap. The whole process ends with laying the finished floor.

It is most rational to lay the floor from softwood lumber, which has a number of advantages:

• the resin contained in the wood will significantly increase the service life of the floor;
• when the floor is wet there is no slipping;
• the smell of pine needles is beneficial to health.

The floor in the bathhouse is always under special conditions, which dictate the need for a scrupulous selection of materials suitable for its insulation. For a bathhouse where the humidity is very high, only materials with a closed cellular structure can be used as thermal insulation. To such thermal insulation materials refers to extruded polystyrene foam or simply polystyrene foam. This is a modern non-toxic material. It is environmentally friendly and not susceptible to microorganisms. Due to its structure, the foam does not get wet, therefore it retains its low thermal conductivity for an almost unlimited time.

It is recommended to lay foam boards on a well-leveled surface. Due to their light weight, they do not create additional load on the foundation. As a rule, the thickness of the foam is made no more than 25 cm - this is enough to ensure that heat loss in the bath is minimal.

Installation of a heated floor in a concrete bath

Heated floors should be installed in a bathhouse with concrete floors in the following order:

• the foundation of the bathhouse is covered concrete slab ceilings A waterproofing building material is laid on top of it - preferably euroroofing felt. This is a new generation material, very durable, quite easy to install;
• then they put a layer of insulation - expanded polystyrene has proven itself, however, the use of small fraction expanded clay is allowed;
• then the insulation is covered with reinforcing mesh and filled with cement-sand screed. The screed is leveled and ceramic tiles are glued onto it.

Insulation of the floor in the rest room

The floor in this room is never wet. Therefore, here it is quite acceptable to do this: lay mineral wool insulation between two glassine plates and cover the subfloor with this “sandwich”, and lay the finishing floor on top.

Warm heated floors

Nowadays there is enough in the consumer market big choice modern heated floors. They can be water heated or electrically heated: cable, film, rod. You can create a warm floor in a bath using electric and infrared heated floors. They are safe to use. They provide good room heating and are quite economical. In addition, it has a known healing effect infrared radiation on the body - so such floors will help you quickly restore your well-being and improve your mood. This type of underfloor heating is produced in the form of thermal film and mats made from heating rods.

A core floor consists of flexible rods that are laid directly into a floor screed of any thickness, even into the adhesive layer of ceramic tiles. This floor can be installed under different types coverings, including those for standard tiles.

If the bathhouse has wooden floors, it is better to use infrared thermal film. It is successfully capable of heating not only the floor in the steam compartment, but also the shelves and the rest room. The function of the heating element is performed by a special film material.

You can install an infrared floor at any time. To do this, just lift the top floor covering and lay thermal film under it. It is usually produced in the form of a roll, which, once rolled out, can be easily and conveniently cut into the required sizes.

Another modern way make a warm floor in a bathhouse - installing a “warm floor” system. The system is equipped with special electrical cables that heat up when current passes through them. Despite the fact that everything is connected with the use of electricity, the system is safe.

When installing the system, all stages of constructing the floor itself are carried out: it is leveled, covered with a sand cushion 150 mm thick, filled with concrete (layer up to 60 mm) and after reinforcing the frame and re-filling it, a heated floor system is installed. Using this technology you can make a water heated floor in a bathhouse.

It should be noted that it is not recommended to install a heated floor system yourself. It is better to contact specialists so that there are no problems with the operation of the system in the future.