Quinoa is an annual herbaceous plant belonging to the Chenopodiaceae family. There are more than a hundred varieties of this grass, classified as subspecies of shrubs and subshrubs. In Russia, quinoa has a bad reputation, being called a harmful weed, against which there is an endless struggle in crops, field plots, vegetable gardens and household territories.

At the same time, historical data shows us a completely different picture: in ancient times, quinoa was appreciated, because it had the glory of being the herb that saved the people from severe hunger. In Rus', its cultivation was active; the plant very often ended up on the dinner table: quinoa seeds were ground, combining them with flour. The resulting baked goods turned out to be very rough and even callous in texture, but mortal hunger knew no mercy, and quinoa saved a huge number of starving people.

The plant has more than a hundred subspecies, but in general two varieties should be distinguished:

• garden quinoa;
• ordinary.

Sadovaya

Garden quinoa is a cultivated vegetable plant with decorative, melliferous, and medicinal properties. For cooking, quinoa leaves can be used fresh (for salads, soups and grated purees), but more often the herb is pickled, fermented and boiled. It is worth noting that the plant contains less oxalic acid than the famous spinach.

Garden quinoa is distinguished by its bright large leaves, which transform into decorative ones after germination begins. From a visual point of view, it represents beautiful plant with a rich range of colors (a combination of beetroot, green and yellow flowers), serving as a rich background. It is usually recommended to grow it in batches in a mixborder or for high-rise borders. Trimming the plant is not difficult, because it tolerates this procedure well, creating reliable screen protection for other vegetation. It is worth planting it, keeping a distance of up to 15 cm between plants. It is very unpretentious in the matter of soil selection.

Ordinary

The considered subspecies of the Chenopodiaceae family numbers approximately a hundred species growing in temperate and tropical climates. The largest population of the most economically important varieties has roots in the western and central regions of America, but their Australian origin has also been noted.

There are different types:

• annual;
• perennial;
• subshrubs;
• shrubby.

Quinoa leaves can differ in both order and opposition, good development is observed sheet plates. Quite often, this vegetation has a silvery coating of hairs, which creates the effect of flour powder. Quinoa flowers have different sexes, but are located on the same vegetation (monoecy). Male flowers have a five-membered perianth, while female flowers have two bracts.

Plant ecology

According to established opinion, it is considered a weed and is especially common in wastelands, coastal areas, and ravines. The most common variety of quinoa in Russia is spreading.

Quinoa is famous for its tolerance to high salt concentrations in the soil. The grass retains the vast majority of consumed salts in its leaves, which subsequently explains its benefits in cleansing the soil of excess salt. In addition, dry ground quinoa leaves are a storehouse of nitrogen, which makes it a good fertilizer.

Composition of quinoa and its beneficial properties

Quinoa is a vegetable extremely rich in beneficial properties, which has a positive effect on the functioning of all body systems. Quinoa leaves are a real vitamin and mineral bomb. It is famous for its general strengthening properties, as it is rich in carotene, ascorbic acid, and amino acids.

Growing quinoa seeds without special treatment with chemicals allows them to be used in the future as an effective emetic. In this case, quinoa also demonstrates laxative properties, and as a result, serves as a true boon for regular constipation and digestive disorders.

The properties of infusions from the plant are famous for their antibacterial effect, which is why quinoa is often used as a medicine for infectious and inflammatory diseases. The herb of the plant is often used as an effective bactericidal agent: the leaves are placed directly on the open wound in order to prevent purulent processes.

As ancient Russian medical reference books that have survived to this day show, in those distant times people truly appreciated the beneficial properties of the plant. They contain numerous recipes containing quinoa, and they are aimed at treating and preventing not only heart diseases and disorders of the digestive system, but also getting rid of radiculitis, various tumors, hemorrhoids, etc.

Weed control

The word “weed” is familiar to all summer residents. At the same time, the weed has become very widespread in summer cottages. This weed can be seen in the photo below. And, of course, summer residents have a desire to rid the garden of these “enemy” weeds forever. Plus, it's better - without additional work.

weed

There are two main methods:

• Traditional - the fight against quinoa consists, first of all, in removing the roots by digging and plowing the soil. Digging knows several ways. Let's say you dig up the weed with a pitchfork: this way you will not injure the quinoa rhizome, as a result of which new weeds will not grow. It is also possible to plow the soil special equipment(cultivators, tractors, motors). IN in this case you should remove the quinoa rhizome, which is not easy, but very effective: experienced garden owners assure that after this procedure you can safely say goodbye to the weed for several long years. In addition, it is extremely difficult to do the above with a regular shovel;

• Chemical - this method has become very widespread. Although it should be said that not all grass dies instantly from exposure to chemicals. Still, sometimes the chemical method is the only weapon against the weed, but it is worth resorting to it outside the garden. The chemicals are highly toxic and therefore simply poisonous and harmful to vegetation. In addition, some plant species are immune to chemicals.

But remember: widespread control of quinoa will not bring only benefits. This vegetation, although not harmless, is needed to maintain an optimal ecological microclimate.

Effective ways to control quinoa

Let's consider the most effective ways weed control.

Traditional way

The fight against such grass consists of removing their rhizomes by digging and plowing. However, this method has its drawback. In this case, you can carefully select the root system manually, as shown in the photo.

Digging. Eat various ways. For example, you need to dig a plant using a fork, thus the roots of the plant will be less damaged, cut it into pieces, from which new quinoa weeds can then grow.

You can plow virgin soil using equipment such as a cultivator, tractor or walk-behind tractor. In this option, it will be more difficult to remove the root system of the plant, however, based on the experience of gardeners, it becomes clear that with the help of treatment you can get rid of quinoa in your summer cottage for a couple of years, but it is very difficult to uproot them with a shovel, as shown in the photo.

Chemical method

This is a very common method, however, not every herb will disappear from your garden using this remedy. In some cases, this is the only method for quinoa, however, it is better not to use it in garden beds. After all, in chemicals contains poison that is harmful to plants. Also, these products do not work on some plants.

Although, today there is a product on sale called Agrokiller, which can destroy even such weeds.

Biological method

For development and reproduction, plants and any grass need light. At night, the life processes in plant tissues begin to slow down or stop. A lack of light can destroy not only plant shoots, but also the root system, which does not receive the nutrition it needs.

By covering the soil with any dense, opaque material, for example, it could be a black film or mulching agrofibre, you need to deprive the weeds of the conditions they need to live. Although, you will need to be patient: such a process cannot be completely completed within one season. Also, in such a shelter, over time, a layer of earth accumulates, where the seeds fall - and everything needs to be started all over again.

If you are interested in the method, then take a look at what it looks like from a practical point of view. But the selection of material for mulching the soil must again be taken very carefully. Thus, under a black film, the soil can become very hot, and the roofing material can release resin. Such important points need to be taken into account.

A good alternative to synthetic cover is organic mulch. You just need to pour it in a thick layer - about 8 centimeters. Sawdust and tree bark can be used as mulch for various types of mulch.

Exhaustive way

Quinoa grass has roots and an aboveground area; if one is damaged, the other may also suffer. Thus, if you can carefully cut off any leaves with shoots near the ground, then in order to grow new ones, the quinoa will be forced to expend vitality and nutrients from its own root systems. What happens if we carry out this procedure constantly? Most likely, one day there will come a time when the reserves are depleted and the weed will die.

Exhaustive way

And for most varieties of weeds, this method becomes effective, for example, for quinoa. However, not for everyone - which also needs to be realized. Although, most likely, there is no universal method of controlling weeds at all. Meanwhile, this method takes noticeably less effort and time than digging, and for this reason it is necessary to take it into account.

According to the observations of summer residents, it will not be possible to completely destroy quinoa - hardy varieties simply grow in place of those specimens that could not withstand the execution. However, if it is possible to arrange sodding between the rows in the garden, this method is better than others.

You can constantly pluck off the shoots using the method described above and use the plucked grass as mulch. Most likely, within two more years, this weed could be eliminated. However, the process of cleaning the area at the dacha must be thorough and the area must be cleaned constantly. For those varieties that can be depleted by mowing, important point- do not touch the root system. Therefore, it is better to use a flat cutter.

Often, weeds are sown in garden beds with one’s own hands. This is a solution if you use fresh manure, as it is rich in most harmful weeds. This happens due to the fact that mature herbs with seedlings are put into compost and then used in practically immature fertilizer. You should not put them in a proper compost heap, and the temperature should be high, and the seeds in it “burn out”; they do not germinate. However, on the surface and along the edge the raw material may not be heated sufficiently.

Quinoa prevention

The solution is as follows: you need to avoid what allows these problems to arise. You only need to use rotted manure, properly create compost and mow the grass as early as possible, but you should not allow it to set seeds.

Most agree with the saying: “If you can’t change the situation, change your own attitude towards it.” The situation with weeds is approximately the same. No need to leave it on personal plot excess weeds, but we need to fight them. However, in weed control, sometimes we don't need to get too carried away, we try to get everything in perfect condition.

If you have quinoa in your garden, that's... good! This means that the soil in the beds is fertile, loose, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction - what is needed for a good harvest of vegetables. In principle, this weed can grow on poor soil, and even on saline soil - but the plants will be weak and depressed.

Their lush growth is a sign of nutrient-rich soil rich in nitrogen. Quinoa also doesn’t like competitors - since it has appeared, it means there are no other weeds.

This is also wonderful!
Is there quinoa in the garden? No problem! Photo by the author However, there is no need to relax: if we do nothing, we will end up with thickets as tall as a man, because in favorable conditions the quinoa bush can reach 1.5 m in height. And each plant will produce a colossal amount of seeds.

No matter how useful they are, it is unlikely that a modern gardener aims to obtain such a “harvest.” Quinoa (Atriplex) is a genus of the Amaranthaceae or Chenopodiaceae family, numbering about 250 species.
On the left is garden quinoa (Atriplex hortensis), on the right is arrowhead quinoa (Atriplex sagittata).

Botanical illustration by Jacob Sturm from the book Deutschlands Flora in Abbildungen, 1796

Quinoa is often also called its relative, pigweed (Chenopódium). Despite the fact that they belong to different genera of the same family, the similarity between these plants is so great that probably only botanists can confidently distinguish them.

It is difficult for an ordinary gardener to understand such nuances, and in general it is not necessary - after all, even in popular literature and reference books medicinal plants they are often combined and described as one plant. Therefore, in this article we will talk about both quinoa and pigweed.

Quinoa and pigweed are close relatives

Most often, quinoa is found in potato plantings - there for it optimal conditions. It does not disdain landfills and wastelands; it grows both on roadsides and in arable land. But in the meadow, in the field grasses, you will never find it.

In our country, the most common wild species is considered quinoa spreading(Atriplex patula). From a gastronomic point of view it is of interest garden quinoa(Atriplex hortensis) - in European countries it is cultivated in gardens and the fresh leaves of the plant are used to prepare various dishes.

Garden quinoa is not a weed, but a food and ornamental plant

Both quinoa and pigweed reproduce by seeds. The leader in their “production” is considered white pigweed(Chenopodium album): one plant produces over 100 thousand seeds per season (and some sources cite more impressive figures - up to 700 thousand). However, it is not only a matter of quantity, but also of quality.

White pigweed produces three types of seeds

The pigweed produces three types of seeds. The first ones are the largest, Brown. They germinate almost immediately as soon as they hit the ground. The second ones are smaller, greenish-black. Their task is to overwinter and sprout next year. in early spring. The third ones are the smallest, black in color, with a dense shell. They are “responsible” for the preservation and distribution of the species: these seeds remain viable for up to 10 years and are not harmed by unfavorable conditions. It is they who, together with manure, “come” to vegetable fields and populate new territories - even such a tough test as traveling through the digestive tract of ungulates is not capable of killing them.
Quinoa and pigweed produce a huge number of seeds. It is useful to know about another feature of the seeds of quinoa and pigweed: only those that end up in the soil at a depth of no more than 4 cm germinate. The rest go into a dormant state and wait in the wings. First of all, it is worth doing prevention. Since quinoa and pigweed do not like competitors, we do not leave the cultivated land empty. The garden bed is free - let's sow green manure. Let's think carefully before buying manure: remember that along with it it is useful organic fertilizer It’s easy to bring in weed seeds, which will then take a long time to get rid of. And of course, we do not allow the formation of seeds if we have not succeeded in completely destroying their source.

Nobody canceled weeding either. Weeding quinoa while it is young is not at all difficult: its root is a taproot, and while it is not yet sufficiently developed, it can be pulled out of loose soil without any problems.

While the root young plant poorly developed, it is easy to weed out quinoa. Photo by the author It is more difficult to cope with an adult plant: its root becomes deeper, branches out, forms many adventitious roots, and the stem often breaks off when trying to pull the weed out of the ground. And the remaining stump will certainly grow back - mowing will not remove the quinoa.

On biological features plants based provocation method, which allows you to accelerate the germination of quinoa seeds and get rid of its seedlings before planting cultivated plants.

Mulch inhibits quinoa seedlings

In early spring, as soon as the ground thaws, it is loosened. Quinoa and goosefoot seeds begin to germinate at a soil temperature of +3...+4 degrees, but for this, as we remember, they certainly need to get into the upper layers. Loosening will help with this. As soon as the shoots appear, we loosen them again, destroying the weeds. If necessary, repeat the procedure.

After sowing or planting vegetables, we loosen the row spacing until cultivated plants they won’t grow up (then they’ll be able to handle the quinoa themselves: it doesn’t like competition).

Mulch inhibits quinoa - this should also be used. Only the mulch layer should be significant - 10-15 centimeters.

This is a good option for potato plantings, beds with cabbage, and cucumbers.

Quinoa seeds are collected and dried for the winter - both domestic and wild birds readily peck at them. IN folk medicine fresh and dried herbs are used, as well as quinoa juice. But different sources describe the healing properties of this plant differently, and sometimes this information is quite contradictory. Therefore, do not rush to be treated with quinoa - it is better to pay attention to its nutritional properties, which are confirmed by historical experience. In times of famine, quinoa saved people from death. Residents of besieged Leningrad cooked porridge from seeds and ground them into flour to bake flat cakes. Leaves of this plant (optional) cultivars, by the way) are used in salads; they can be fermented for the winter and cooked with cabbage soup.
Garden quinoa - healthy greens

Now this herb is cultivated not only in European gardens - quinoa seeds can already be purchased in domestic stores. And how to grow it, read the article Garden quinoa - an ancient vegetable green. There are also salad recipes.

Do you grow quinoa?

Source: https://7dach.ru/MarinaGerasimenko/v-ogorode-lebeda-ne-beda-126150.html

How to get rid of quinoa in the garden: methods of weed control

Quinoa is a representative of the Chenopodiaceae family, which has about 200 species, represented in many places around the world - the USA, Latin America, Mexico, etc.

An interesting fact is that in many countries, garden quinoa is cultivated for gastronomic purposes, using the leaves and stems to prepare delicious dishes.

• 1 Description
• 2 Fighting methods
• 3 Prevention
• 4 Useful properties

Description

Russian summer residents most often have to deal with common quinoa, which densely fills garden plots in the summer.

Few people have any idea that quinoa is a capricious weed, and its appearance in the country is a sign of fertility and richness of the soil in minerals.

However, on this note, the pleasant moments, as a rule, end, and without the proper intervention of the summer resident, it takes on the appearance of a harsh, one and a half meter bush, creating shade and taking away moisture from the crops grown in the beds.

Quinoa propagation occurs by seed. An adult plant, the destruction of which occurred after the moment of shedding seed material, is able to extend his residence on a summer cottage for several years. They especially suffer from it potato plantings and beds with beans - these crops react sharply to lack of moisture.

Fighting methods

When the first signs of quinoa growth appear, careful weeding should be done. Since the seeds contained in the soil sprout unevenly, it is advisable to assume that systematic weeding will be required.

It is important to understand that, having allowed the technical maturity of one plant, dacha wrestling with quinoa will drag on for several years to come. Young seedlings with a tap root system are best weeded.

Subsequently, the quinoa root begins to develop in breadth, forming complex, branched processes. When weeding out taller specimens, it is easy to leave the root in the soil, and the plant will begin its development with renewed vigor. Mowing the weed, as a rule, does not bring results.

With sufficient soil moisture, the root continues active growth, and the newly emerged shoots will have time to mature to the self-sowing stage.

Getting rid of an adult quinoa bush can provoke the death of seedlings located close to the weed and becoming entangled in the root system.

Complete elimination is facilitated by the use of herbicides - specialized agents that have a poisonous effect on the plant. Young shoots are especially sensitive to treatment; several treatments can be used to destroy adult bushes.

Prevention

Even the most attentive and diligent summer resident can detect the appearance of quinoa on his site. The reason for this is the introduction of manure containing thousands of weed seeds.

Thanks to the incredibly long germination period, the seeds of this grass survive long periods of time in compost pits and humus boxes. Having gained access to prepared, dug up and loosened soil, the quinoa begins to develop the newly provided territory.

Therefore, when using manure and humus, you should prepare for frequent weeding of the garden to avoid the development of weed beds.

When making compost, you need to limit the use of herbs that have seed germs - they should be burned.

The place where self-seeding of quinoa was nevertheless allowed should be mulched using garden fabric and natural material - manure, rotted straw and sawdust, fallen leaves, which can block the access of sunlight directly to the soil.

Since quinoa is able to spread the sowing of its own seeds to areas quite large radius, the plant should also be disposed of outside the perimeter of the dacha, on the sides of adjacent roads and on the border with neighboring areas.

Beneficial features

In Russia, quinoa has been considered edible since time immemorial. In simple peasant houses, cabbage soup was cooked from it, and the seeds were used as feed for poultry in winter time. The leaves were fermented along with cabbage.

A historical fact is the use of weed seeds as a material for making flour under the conditions of besieged Leningrad. Quinoa bread was remembered by many participants in those tragic events.

Currently, some varieties are widespread, the leaves of which are especially valuable in salads and decorations for meat dishes.

The nutritional value of quinoa lies in the high content of vegetable protein, vitamins E, PP, C, many macro- and microelements, and fiber.

In folk medicine it is used mainly as an antitussive. However, there is a widespread high opinion of the general strengthening effect that is achieved by regular consumption of the raw leaves of the plant. Its juice has a mild laxative effect. It is also taken to combat obsessive chronic pain syndromes.

Source: https://3vedra.ru/sornyaki/lebeda.html

Quinoa - is it really a problem?

Familiar strangers in the garden

Quinoa is often considered only a weed, forgetting about its nutritional, decorative and medicinal benefits. Of course, these days there are enough food greens, and there are enough medicinal plants that are familiar to us. But as a decorative addition to a flower garden, garden quinoa will certainly attract the attention of gardeners. Quinoa - is it really a problem?

In the spring, in a vacant lot where summer residents take garbage from their plots, I caught my eye on the burgundy-red shoots of some plant. At this moment, the rays of the setting sun illuminated the little ones - they began to glow, glow, transforming the approaching twilight.

The time for replanting was favorable - it rained periodically, so without thinking, I tore out elastic, strong sprouts from the loose soil, wrapped them in a burdock leaf and hurried to the house. I planted the foundlings among the phloxes and chrysanthemums - they were not yet to bloom soon, and these corners of the flower garden were not particularly spectacular.

I watered it once, and after a couple of days they began to grow, and after a week and a half, the young slender plants already favorably set off the greenery surrounding them. This is how I met garden quinoa.

The plant captivated me with its unpretentiousness, it was pleasantly pleasing to the eye, especially in those moments when the sun illuminated it. And of course, I wanted to know more about him. It turns out that quinoa has been known as a food plant for a long time and was specially grown in gardens and vegetable gardens until the 19th century. Later it was replaced by spinach.

The ancient Greek physician Galen noted that quinoa increases the nutritional value of the food to which it is added. In lean years, quinoa saved people from starvation, and in the spring of 1942, in besieged Leningrad, this unpretentious plant helped thousands of residents survive.

The benefits of quinoa are primarily due to the content in it of a large number of amino acids necessary for human life, various vitamins and minerals.

Moreover, the chemical composition is sufficiently balanced to provide the body with the necessary substances for normal functioning. Quinoa normalizes metabolic processes in the body, has bactericidal and anti-inflammatory properties, and improves the vascular system.

Due to its high protein content (up to 18%), this plant increases the nutritional value of dishes.

Rod Lebeda, by modern classification, belongs to the Amaranth family, is a relative of spinach, strawberry spinach, beets, amaranth. There are more than 200 herbaceous plants, subshrubs and shrubs in the genus.

The following types of quinoa are common in our areas: wild, white, gray, garden, spreading, Tatar and others. Feature quinoa - the ability to accumulate salt in its leaves, so it can be used to cultivate saline soils.

The leaves of most types of quinoa are covered with silvery hairs - as if sprinkled with flour, perhaps this became a hint for people to use it in baking bread.

Gardeners are very familiar with quinoa; they are actively fighting it, but for all its fertility, it cannot be compared with such malicious weeds as wheatgrass or sow thistle.

The Eastern Slavs rhyme quinoa with trouble: “It’s not a problem if there’s quinoa in the rye, two troubles when there’s neither rye nor quinoa,” this once again reminds us of the benefits of quinoa. And the porridge made from quinoa seeds was affectionately called: swan.

The French call quinoa bonne dame (nice woman), and the Germans call it der dute Heinrich (good Henry).

Isn't this popular recognition of the usefulness of the plant? For use as food, it is recommended to grow garden quinoa - its leaves are larger, juicier and more tender.

In addition, it will be a wonderful decoration for beds or flower beds - its varieties have leaves of yellow, green, and various shades of red.

Source To extend the period of obtaining green quinoa, it should be sown at intervals of two weeks, starting from April to August.

Quinoa is quite unpretentious to soils and easily tolerates cold and heat, but to obtain a better harvest it is necessary to sow it on fertile soils and provide it with watering during dry periods. Young shoots do not have a pronounced taste and smell, so when preparing dishes, a lot of herbs, spices, onions, and garlic are added to it.

Quinoa is added to salads, borscht and soups, made into cutlets, pie filling, pancakes, pancakes; also dried, ground into powder and then placed in dough, first and second courses. To get rid of the saponins contained in quinoa as much as possible, it must be thoroughly washed before cooking.

Young quinoa, like sorrel and spinach, can be used to make an excellent filling for pies, pies, and pancakes. To do this, take a bunch of quinoa, rinse it thoroughly, cut it, add salt, green onions, dill, boiled eggs.

Pleasant-tasting and healthy cutlets are made from quinoa and oatmeal: Boil 150−200 g of quinoa leaves in salted water for ten minutes, drain in a colander, add 50 g of oatmeal, herbs and spices to taste, form into cutlets, fry in vegetable oil.

Attention! Despite all the usefulness of quinoa, it should be remembered that excessive consumption of seeds can cause gastrointestinal upset. It is also not recommended to eat quinoa greens in large quantities for people suffering from gastritis, colitis, stomach or duodenal ulcers, cholelithiasis and urolithiasis.

Lyudmila Belan

Source: http://sadovodka.ru/posts/7243-lebeda-razve-ona-beda.html

Garden quinoa

For the vast majority of gardeners, the word “quinoa” means the mortal enemy of the garden, no matter what is written after this terrible word. This name really shocks everyone.

Yes, this is understandable, because in the minds of gardeners and gardeners, quinoa is in the first row of the most malicious weeds next to wheatgrass, sow thistle, dandelion, wormwood, although in lean and war years it, along with nettles, more than once saved our ancestors from starvation.

And if you don’t get rid of the quinoa in time, then you won’t find any other seedlings in the garden bed.

But now we are talking about a vegetable crop that deserves the widest distribution. The quinoa genus is very numerous, with a large number of species. But these are all weeds.

No wonder in the old days they said: “Sow thistle and quinoa are a disaster for crops.”

Only one plant from this genus has been introduced into cultivation - garden quinoa, which has two varieties: a salad form with green and yellow leaves and a decorative form with blood-red leaves.

Garden quinoa – annual herbaceous plant from the goosefoot family, a cultural form of the familiar quinoa. This is very rare vegetable crop in amateur gardens and vegetable gardens.

As a vegetable cultivated plant, quinoa was known back in Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome. Currently widely cultivated in Western Europe and the USA.

Garden quinoa is a very tall and powerful plant. Its stem is erect, pyramidal shape, up to 1.8 meters high. The leaves are triangular, spear-shaped at the base, jagged, yellow or green in color.

U decorative forms garden quinoa leaves are red, yellow or variegated. The flowers are very small, collected in bunches into spike-shaped inflorescences.

Garden quinoa seeds are small, covered with a hard shell, which is why they remain in the soil for a long time without germinating.

Now many varieties of this plant are known, but garden red, garden yellow and garden green are in greatest demand.

Garden quinoa - very cold-resistant plant, tolerates frosts down to minus 5°C. The most favorable temperature for plant development is 15-18°C.

Garden quinoa is not demanding on soil fertility, but it is very demanding on soil moisture, and at the same time it can withstand short-term drought well.

But in this case, the quinoa quickly forms a flowering stem, its leaves become coarse and become unsuitable for food.

It is necessary to place the beds with quinoa in a bright place, although it tolerates light partial shade. Delicate, tasty greens can only be obtained if the soil is sufficiently supplied with moisture.
They eat juicy greens that have a salty taste.

Having virtually no odor, when adding onions, peppers, garlic, and spicy herbs, it is an ideal ingredient for preparing a wide variety of salads, side dishes, and various soups, while simultaneously enriching them with protein. They also make delicious cutlets from it.

In Western European countries, quinoa greens are widely used as a winter vitamin seasoning for first and second courses, sauces, and gravies. To do this, the prepared leaves must be dried and ground into powder.

Garden quinoa leaves have a rich chemical composition. They contain plant proteins and various mineral salts, are rich in vitamin C - up to 95 mg%, rutin - up to 110 mg%.

They contain significantly less oxalic acid than the famous spinach. And in terms of yield, garden quinoa is far superior to spinach, and it accumulates nitrates significantly less than spinach.

It is believed to have a healing effect on stomach diseases.

Any cultivated soil is suitable for its cultivation. However, a good harvest of tender greens can only be obtained in well-prepared beds with constant watering. It is very profitable to grow it as a very early green in a greenhouse.

The soil for garden quinoa is prepared in the fall: it is dug to a bayonet depth, first adding half a bucket of rotted compost per 1 sq.m, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate and 1 teaspoon potash fertilizer. In the spring, as soon as the soil allows, it is dug up again to a depth of 12-15 cm, adding 1 teaspoon ammonium nitrate per 1 sq.m.

Garden quinoa is cultivated by sowing seeds in open ground from early spring, as soon as the soil allows, and then two weeks later until the onset of hot weather. In conditions of short daylight hours flowering occurs later, and the yield of green mass is higher.

In gardens and vegetable gardens, garden quinoa is sown in rows with a row spacing of 35-40 cm. The seeds are planted to a depth of 2-3 cm. After sowing, the soil must be rolled. And if you are going to use quinoa only as an early spring salad plant, then you can simply sow the seeds in the garden in bulk.

To obtain fresh greens throughout the summer, repeat sowings are done every 12-15 days.
Caring for plants involves loosening the rows and removing weeds.

In the phase of two true leaves, the seedlings are thinned out, leaving a distance of 15-20 cm between the young plants, and after another 10 days this distance is increased to 30 cm.

Plant feeding is carried out on poorly prepared soil after thinning nitrogen fertilizers(1 teaspoon of urea per 10 liters of water). During dry periods, plants are watered.

During the growing season, quinoa greens are picked for food 2-3 times, cutting off the leaves and tops of the plants, leaving some of the leaves for the development of the plant. You can also cut off the plants entirely or uproot them when they reach a height of 40 cm. In the area freed up in this case, you can re-sow vegetable plants.

Harvested quinoa leaves are used fresh or cooked, much in the same way as lettuce and spinach. Moreover, it must be used as soon as possible, because... The products wither rather quickly and lose their presentation.
To obtain seeds, the seed bush is not touched until autumn. To prevent the shoots from falling, they must be tied to a support. In autumn, seed plants are cut and threshed.

Garden quinoa, like all its wild “relatives,” is prone to self-sowing. But this should not be allowed, as it greatly clogs the area.

V.A. Loiko

Source: https://fermer.ru/sovet/rastenievodstvo/31362

Quinoa is not a problem | You are healthy

As a child, I was often sent to help my great-grandmother, and since she always kept cattle, the main help was caring for her.

I was offended to tears if my great-grandmother handed me a huge drag basket right from the doorstep, in which they collected goose grass (quinoa). I took the basket and went to the collective farm fields, where there was a lot of quinoa.

To fill the basket, I had to fight with the grass for several hours.

I was not many years old then, and sometimes I had to grab the plant with both hands and almost lie down on the ground to pull it out. I came home dirty from head to toe.

My great-grandmother, grumbling, washed me, sat me down at a huge table on which the samovar was making noise, and said: “ Quinoa - no problem“There is no worse misfortune when there is no bread or quinoa.”

And again, once again, she began her story about the hungry years, about how they only survived then thanks to the swan.

After tea, the great-grandmother pulled the basket of quinoa towards her and sorted it into two piles - one for herself, the other for the cattle. They dried only part of the quinoa, the rest was given to livestock feed, they made salads, cooked soups with it, and even baked bread, pies and shangi.

My great-grandmother believed that quinoa gave great strength to humans and animals. And that it is precisely in her that the secret is that the cow always gives birth to healthy calves, for which the great-grandmother always had a long line, because they all always survived and quickly gained weight. Great-grandmother said that there is no disease that quinoa cannot cope with.

Quinoa leaves are rich in protein, in which scientists have discovered 17 amino acids, 10 of which are irreplaceable for our body and can only enter the body with food.

Maybe this is precisely the ability of this plant treat impotence, radiculitis, gout, sore throat, heart and lung diseases, tumors, purulent wounds and rejuvenate the body's cells.

Quinoa can even improve memory And get rid of depression, but it must be used with great caution.

Contraindications

Quinoa is on the list of the most common allergen plants, so treatment with this plant or eating it should begin with small doses, always take a break between courses and not exceed the dose during treatment. Long-term use of quinoa seeds can cause nervous disorders, and continuous consumption of any parts of the plant threatens severe weight loss and gastrointestinal upset. So everything should be in moderation!

Wounds

Quinoa heals well both fresh and old purulent wounds.

My grandmother told me that when men unfit for service and sent home to die began to return from the war, this herb saved many and some even completely recovered. I remember well my grandmother’s brother-in-law, who lost his leg in the war.

My grandmother said that when he was brought in he was already very bad. The stump was severely inflamed, the man rarely came to his senses and recognized almost no one. Grandmother washed the stump boiled water, crushed the quinoa and applied it to the wound. We tried to change the bandage as often as possible.

In addition, the grandmother poured one tablespoon of crushed fresh grass with one glass of spring water and told the man to drink only this water when he came to his senses, until his condition improved.

The man’s brother brought a local paramedic, who, after examining the patient, said that there was no chance of survival.

My grandmother said that she also doubted it at first, but on the third day she announced to everyone that the man would rise, and forced them not to stop changing the quinoa bandage. The man really rose up and lived to a ripe old age.

As children, we often ran to him with the neighbor kids, and he, sitting on a bench, cut out whistles for us and told us fairy tales.

Gout

Pour 100 ml of boiling water over two tablespoons of dry crushed quinoa, bring to a boil and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes. Cool, strain and add boiling water to the original volume. Take one tablespoon three times a day before meals. The course of treatment is seven days, then take a week break and, if necessary, repeat the course.

Worms

Since I was three years old, I have been in love with my grandmother’s neighbor’s son, Vovka. It didn’t bother me at all that he was 16 years older than me, and I revolved around him all day. When he got married, I had not yet gone to school, and for me this news became a real tragedy, which my childish mind could not accept.

His wife immediately disliked me and forbade me to come to them. Everything changed when their son turned two years old. He suddenly fell ill, and doctors could not diagnose him. He was getting worse, the boy stopped talking and walking. When they took him outside, I saw how bad he was.

He lay in a stroller and looked at one point, and on his small, emaciated face there were huge bruises under his eyes. Grandma, noticing that I was standing for a long time near the stroller with the baby, decided to see what interested me so much. Seeing the child, she didn’t even say a word, she waved her hands and went into the house.

The grandmother brought out a jar with some green liquid and ordered to give the baby one teaspoon three times a day.

When the child began to recover on the third day, Vovka came to see us. He asked his grandmother what the baby was sick with and how she managed to cure him.

The grandmother explained to him that there was no illness at all, that the child was being eaten from the inside by a worm, and simply that he had worms.

And if treatment had been started earlier, there would not have been such consequences; the child was greatly weakened, and now he needs long time for restoration.

From that day on, the doors of Vovkin’s house became open for me even at night, and his son did not leave me a single step when I was visiting my grandmother.

Radiculitis

For radiculitis Pour boiling water over fresh quinoa and apply a compress to the sore spot. It is better to do the procedure at night and repeat until the condition improves.

Angina

I only suffered from purulent tonsillitis three times in my life, but each time I suffered the disease very hard and the treatment was delayed for several months.

Last time purulent sore throat overtook me when I came to visit my grandmother.

For treatment, she poured five tablespoons of dry crushed quinoa herb with one glass of boiling water, left for an hour, strained and added boiling water to the original volume.

I gargled with this infusion every hour, using half a glass per procedure. In the morning and evening, my grandmother gave me a glass of hot milk, to which she added one teaspoon of quinoa juice and honey.

I completely recovered in two days, although before that I had been suffering from purulent sore throat for three months, two of which I practically did not get out of bed.

After my grandmother’s treatment, I never had such a severe sore throat again, although almost 30 years have passed.

Haemorrhoids

Finely chop fresh quinoa leaves and apply for 15 minutes to the problem area. Repeat the procedure 2-3 times a day until the condition improves. You can make lotions with an infusion of dry herbs.

To prepare the infusion, pour five to six tablespoons of dry crushed quinoa herb with a glass of boiling water, leave for one hour and strain. Apply a lotion to the problem area for 15-20 minutes half an hour before bedtime.

Carry out the procedure once a day until the condition improves.

Mastitis

Even with advanced mastitis There is a wonderful remedy that helps you avoid surgery and make a full recovery. To prepare it, you need to pick about one kilogram of quinoa, rinse it in cold water and dry.

Buy half a kilo of old lard (the yellower the better), remove the salt from it and grind it together with quinoa in a blender. Apply the mixture in a thin layer on a paper diaper or towel, wrap the chest and secure with a scarf or towel.

Change the bandage once a day until the condition improves.

Dry cough

For a dry cough, my grandmother poured one teaspoon of dry crushed quinoa with one glass of boiling water, left for five minutes and added honey. I took the infusion 3 times a day until the sputum began to leave.

Ekaterina Zarudnaya, herbalist, Arkhangelsk region

town "Travinka" No. 7, 2015

Organic fertilizers and ash contain all the microelements needed for garden plants, so their addition to the soil eliminates the need for gardeners to use special microfertilizers.

Potassium sulfate improves product quality. Its presence in the soil has a positive effect on the yield of cruciferous plants (cabbage, rutabaga, turnips, etc.), as well as legumes that consume a lot of sulfur from the soil.
Average application rate of potassium sulfate:
– for basic processing – 130–250 g per 10 m2;
– for early dry feeding – 30–40 g per 10 m2;
– for late dry feeding – 60–80 g per 10 m2;
- For liquid fertilizers– 35 – 40 g per 10 liters of water.
According to the average rate of fertilizer consumption, this volume of solution is enough for 4 m2 of crops or for 10 - 20 seedlings, depending on their age. The average rate of application of potassium carbonate is 150 – 200 g per 10 m2.
Average application rate kalimagnesia is:
- under autumn processing soil - 350 - 650 g per 10 m2;
- For early feeding– 85 – 100 g per 10 m2;
– for late feeding – 160–180 g per 10 m2.
Ferrous or trivalent iron sulfates should be mixed with other necessary nutrients; they can be applied to the soil scattered or in a belt method. However, such fertilizers should not be used for spraying leaves, since iron is quite difficult to transfer inside the plant from one place to another.
Elemental sulfur can be scattered over areas before autumn plowing or preparing beds, since complete availability of elemental sulfur can be achieved only 4 months after its application to the soil.
Plants consume many chemicals in very small quantities, sometimes only a few milligrams per 1 m2. Usually such substances are found in soil and manure. However, on alkaline soils sometimes it happens deficiency of manganese, zinc, molybdenum, copper and other elements. Entering them in the form chemical salts or in tablet form is beneficial, since vegetable products are enriched with these microelements, becoming healthier.
Microfertilizers applied to the soil in different ways. Thus, boron fertilizers ( boric acid and borax) if there is a deficiency in the soil, it can be applied at spring treatment 1 – 2 g per 1 m2, mixing them with soil and scattering them.
Manganese fertilizers in the form of manganese sulfate, 5–10 g per bucket of water should be added, and potassium permanganate – 1–3 g per bucket of water. Then spray the plants with the resulting solution on buds, flowers, and also during the growth period.

Application of lime fertilizers

The effectiveness of lime fertilizers applied to the soil is determined by the fineness of their grinding.
Very finely ground lime materials(pulsating) after application to the soil they quickly react. Therefore, the processes of neutralizing acidity and enriching the soil with calcium occur rapidly.
Coarse lime after application to the soil it reacts slowly, so it begins to act only in the second year. In addition, the overall application rate should be significantly increased. Applying coarse lime can be beneficial if 2 to 4 years' supply of lime is applied at a time as this reduces labor costs. The reaction of lime in the soil, extended over time, lasts up to several years.
Gypsum (calcium sulfate) usually scattered over the surface of the soil, then it is mixed with the soil during the process of digging and harrowing.

Fertilizer application in greenhouses

Since plants extract various chemicals from the soil for their growth and development, every year with each harvest garden crops 5 to 35 g of nitrogen, 2 - 12 g of phosphorus and 8 - 50 g of potassium are removed from 1 m2 of garden area. In greenhouses, where the yield is higher, the waste of nutrients is greater. For getting good harvests These three substances must be added in the form of fertilizers so as not to deplete the soil. Typically used for these purposes urea, containing 46% nitrogen, double granular superphosphate(50% phosphorus), sulphate And potassium chloride(up to 60% potassium).
In greenhouses you can use gardening fertilizer mixture , consisting of three main components - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium. It is considered a valuable fertilizer for greenhouses crystallin, which contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and calcium in approximately equal proportions: 10 - 20%.
Can also be used in greenhouses ammophos, diammophos(11 – 21% nitrogen, about 50% phosphorus) and nitrophoska(11 – 13% each of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium).
Convenient for greenhouses are the so-called Riga mixtures , which in addition to basic nutrients contain microelements - magnesium, iron.

Weighing fertilizers without scales

If you don’t have scales at your dacha, you can measure out the required amount mineral fertilizers with improvised means. You just need to know that 1 tbsp. l. contains approximately 10 g of urea, 15 g of double granular superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride.
You can measure the required amount of mineral fertilizers using a matchbox. It contains approximately 17 g of ammonium nitrate, 18 g of calcium nitrate, 22 g of sodium nitrate, 25 g of potassium nitrate. The box also contains 15 g of urea, 17 g of ammonium sulfate, 22 g of granules and 24 g of superphosphate powder, 34 g of phosphate rock, 17 g of potassium chloride, 20 g of potassium salt and potassium magnesium, 10 g wood ash, 12 g of fluff lime and 18 g of fertilizer vegetable mixture.
If wood ash needs to be added in large volumes, be aware that 5 kg of ash can be placed in a 10-liter bucket.
Organic fertilizers take up a larger volume, so it is more convenient to measure them in buckets. So a 10-liter bucket contains: 5 kg of horse manure on a bedding of sawdust, 8 kg of fresh horse manure, 9 kg of fresh cow dung, 12 kg of slurry, 5 kg of bird droppings and aerated peat, 8 kg of humus, 10 kg of compost and 12 kg of turf soil.

Making your own fertilizers

Herbal Nutrient Solution

Herbal nutrient solution is a wonderful organic fertilizer. It can be prepared from chopped herbs, it is best to start with nettle. Place the prepared herb in a plastic or wooden barrel and fill it with water to about three-quarters, since the liquid will foam during fermentation. In order to release the accumulated oxygen, the herbal slurry must be stirred daily with a stick.
Warm sunny summer green manure will wander especially actively, emitting a strong bad smell. You can prevent the appearance of an unpleasant odor by adding a few drops of valerian extract to the liquid. After two weeks, the slurry will become lighter in color as fermentation ends - now the green fertilizer can be used as a top dressing.

Compost

The main task of composting is to create favorable conditions so that all organic and vegetable waste quickly rots without loss. In addition, composting better preserves nutrients and destroys pests.
It can be prepared from a wide variety of organic substances and waste. This is precisely why it differs from humus: in addition to manure, its composition can include peat, all kinds of plant and food waste. Some types of compost do not include manure at all.

Ground eggshells have a high neutralizing ability against high soil acidity, up to approximately 90-95%.

Since compost contains more components than humus, they need to be placed in a pit or stack in a special way. Typically, compost is prepared in trenches 70–80 cm deep of arbitrary length and width, in ground heaps or in boxes 1.5–2 m wide. The main thing is that rain and melt water do not reach the compost. First, a cushion of peat, humus soil or dry turf soil 10–15 cm thick is poured into the trench. Compostable material from plant waste is placed on it in dense layers 15–30 cm thick. Layers of plant waste are placed until the height of the stack reaches 1.5 - 2 m (Fig. 7).
Rice. 7. Layers of plant waste

2 - 3 days after laying, when the layers are compacted, the compost is watered with water in quantities equal to the mass of the laid compost. You can water the waste with slurry in a ratio of 1:2, or a solution of mullein, or a solution of feces in a ratio of 1:4, or a solution of chicken manure in a ratio of 1:3. Five days after heating, the compost must be compacted and watered again. This time, the liquid should be taken in a volume that is half that of the first watering. It is advisable to add a small amount of mineral fertilizers; in particular, you can sprinkle phosphate rock on top at the rate of 1.5 - 2 kg per 100 kg of mass to be laid. In particular, the addition of mineral fertilizers is necessary if the composted material does not contain slurry and bird droppings. After this, compact the compost again and then cover it with a layer of earth or peat 10–15 cm thick.
It is rational to start a compost heap at the beginning of summer. If compost is prepared in a heap, then on an elevated dry area you need to lay a 30 cm layer of material that absorbs moisture well. For these purposes, you can use peat, sawdust, chopped straw or turf soil. Any fresh manure or droppings, feces, tops, healthy plant debris, peelings and other food waste can be placed on the bedding layer as it arrives. Cover each new layer with the same bedding material. When a large amount of manure or waste is simultaneously received, their layers of 10 cm should be alternated with layers of peat or sawdust 30 cm thick. The desired ratio of layers of waste and peat should be 1: 3. The sides of the compost heap should be covered with peat or earth. In order for the compost to rot safely, it must be moist all the time, so the compost heap should be watered periodically (household slops can be used for this purpose).
Compost can be considered ready when all the components included in it are completely rotted and it takes on the appearance of a dark, homogeneous crumbly mass. If the compost is laid in the spring (most the right time for planting, when the garden is cleared of organic residues), then in the fall it is already ready. Compost made from small-stemmed materials, if started in early summer, can be ready for fertilization in three months. When using waste with coarse stems, such as potato tops and other similar waste, they must first be crushed into pieces 10 - 15 cm long. If weeds are put into the compost, then to prevent their seeds from germinating, these parts of the plants should be separated and boiled with boiling water before bookmarks in compost.
Slowly decomposing materials require a longer composting period - sometimes this lasts up to 1 - 2 years. In the second year, the pile should be shoveled 2-3 times during the summer, moistening it. Then cover the top again with peat, sawdust or turf soil. During the first shoveling, the following should be added to each cubic meter of compost: 1 - 2 kg of lime, 1 kg of urea, 1.5 kg of superphosphate and 0.5 kg of potassium chloride.
It is recommended to use compost in the same way and in the same doses as humus.

Peat manure compost

In peat manure compost they get intensive development free-living nitrogen fixers that bind significant amounts of atmospheric nitrogen. When the temperature in the compost increases to 50 - 60 °C, the processes of hydrolysis of complex organic compounds intensify, so such compost is enriched with easily hydrolyzed nitrogen - and the coefficient of use of peat nitrogen by plants increases to 20%. In terms of efficiency, peat manure composts are practically not inferior to pure manure, and sometimes even surpass it. The effectiveness of peat manure composts is increased if 2–3% phosphate rock is added to them.
When composting acidic high-moor peat, it is recommended to add 1–2% lime or ash at the rate of 30–50 kg of lime or 50–75 kg of wood ash per 1 ton of peat. The moisture content of peat used to prepare composts should not exceed 70%. However, during the composting process the peat is watered systematically. During alkaline composting, peat nitrogen is partially released and converted into a form accessible to plants.
With a high degree of decomposition, the proportion of peat in the compost is increased. For successful composting in the summer, you need to take two parts of peat for one part of manure, i.e. on a layer of peat of 30–40 cm you need to lay a layer of manure 10–15 cm thick, then put peat again, again manure or household waste. Peat and manure are alternated until a stack 1.5 - 2.0 m wide and high is formed. Phosphate rock should be added in a thin layer. There is no need to compact the layers, and the stack should be covered on top with a layer of earth or dense material (for example, a tarpaulin).
Fresh peat applied to the soil as a fertilizer reduces the shelf life of fruits and their resistance to sorting.
While the mass is overheating, you need to control the temperature by controlling the access of air (as with humus). In dry weather, the compost should be moistened with water every 10–15 days, and shoveled 2–3 times during the summer. The better the components are mixed, the higher the value of the fertilizer will be. With skillful temperature regulation, the compost will be ready in 4 - 5 months, without regulation - no earlier than in a year.

Mullein

You can make your own from manure slurry- or mullein. Slurry is a fast-acting nitrogen-potassium fertilizer.
Fresh manure should be placed in a container, filled with water in a ratio of 1:3, covered with a lid and left to ferment for 1 - 2 weeks. From time to time you need to open the container and mix the contents. The appearance of bubbles means that the mullein has already fermented.
Before use, slurry should be diluted with water another 3–4 times. Then you can add it to the soil, it is advisable to add superphosphate at the rate of 100 - 150 g per 100 liters of slurry.

Installation of a drainage system on the site

If the land on the site is clayey, high level groundwater or it is located in a lowland, if after heavy rains and in the spring it is flooded, if slugs have settled in your area for a long time and the crops are dying from waterlogging, then you need a drainage system to drain excess water in a timely manner.
The drainage system of a vegetable garden is a network of drains (grooves) into which water flows and from where it is then drained. The drainage system can be arranged according to a herringbone pattern (when short drains from all ends of the site approach one main one, from which all the water then flows into a ditch or into a specially dug pool), in the form of parallel independent drains. All drains should have a bottom slightly inclined towards the drain.
There are 2 ways to organize drainage:
1) superficial - if the soil on your site normally absorbs moisture and flooding occurs only in the spring. To do this, dig drains the width and depth of a shovel in the form of a grid (for example, along the outlines of the beds) and fill them to 20–25 cm with crushed stone (Fig. 8);

Rice. 8. Surface drainage scheme

2) deep - if the soil on your site is clayey, the site is in a lowland and big problems constantly arise with the outflow of water. To do this, dig drains with a depth of 0.5 m or more. Then you need to check the correct slope of the trenches: when it rains heavily, observe the flow of water along the grid. Then build a drainage system from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of about 10 cm, fill the trenches halfway with crushed stone and level them with the ground surface with the soil remaining after digging the drains (Fig. 9). Open areas of the drainage system through which water will drain into the pipes must be equipped with filters to protect against various debris.

Rice. 9. Deep drainage scheme

Weeding and loosening

How often should you weed your garden?

Weeds appear in the garden earlier than the first cultivated plants: parsley, dill, radishes, etc. Weeds reproduce, grow, and ripen faster than cultivated plants, drawing nutrients and useful substances from the soil.
It is necessary to weed the garden as often as possible, otherwise if you miss the moment when the seeds ripen and are blown away by the wind, you will have to fight not just one weed, but many. Although destroying weeds takes a lot of time and effort, it is necessary to constantly do this, otherwise they will fill all the available land, which will subsequently lead to the death of cultivated plants and only unnecessary weeds will remain in the garden.
When weeding the garden, you should also remember that weeds must be destroyed in the garden, between adjacent buildings, along the border of the site, otherwise their seeds will be transferred to the garden with gusts of wind, water flows, on people’s clothing, and animal fur.
In preparation for winter, you should perform no-moldboard tillage, thanks to which the seeds rise to the surface, where they will be destroyed by late autumn or early spring frosts.
Plowing and digging up the ground is not recommended, since the seeds are distributed throughout the garden, and if they do not germinate immediately, they can wait for a favorable time: the duration of their stay in this state is 20 years or more.

How to weed beds correctly

Basic rules for weeding:
– it is necessary to pull out weeds before they have developed a powerful root system;
– after weeding, it is necessary to carefully remove all parts of the weeds;
– it is better to weed after rain, as plant roots are easily pulled out of the wet soil.
It is recommended to remove weeds from the beds regularly, without putting off this rather boring task.
If weeds appear between the seedling bushes, it is recommended to pull them out by hand so as not to damage the still immature parts of the plants.
You can loosen between the beds with a hoe.
Using mulch reduces the spread of weeds.
It is recommended to immediately plant something on a dug up piece of land. If there is no intention to plant cultivated plants in the near future, then you can plant the area with green manure plants (lupine, beans, lentils, rapeseed, rapeseed, wheat, rye). They have no nutritional value, but protect the soil from weeds and will subsequently become a good fertilizer.
It is also not recommended to make many paths in the garden, as they quickly become overgrown with weeds.
It is recommended to do digging not with a shovel, but with a pitchfork, since the pitchfork does not cut the rhizomes.
It is recommended to fertilize the soil only from a compost heap, since fresh manure contains a large amount of plant seeds that the animals fed on.

How to get rid of quinoa

When hearing the word “quinoa,” many gardeners think of a “mortal enemy” that must be fought.
The main thing to remember is that the seeds should not be allowed to ripen, so the quinoa must be mercilessly mowed down.
Since quinoa has small roots, they are easily pulled out of the ground, so mechanical tillage without the use of herbicides is suitable.

How to get rid of bindweed

Bindweeds develop in soils where there are few nutrients. About 20 years ago, bindweed was distributed in Russia near the Rostov region, then with the transportation of grain and livestock, bindweed began to spread to other territories. Simple mechanically it is almost impossible to get rid of bindweed, since from the very small plot 1 cm plants can develop a whole system of rhizomes.
In the fall, when digging up the ground, you need to break up the lumps so that the seeds and parts of plants freeze in winter.
Plots of land overgrown with bindweed can be sown with mustard seeds; over time, the weed will disappear.
Since bindweed grows on acidic soil, it is useful to sprinkle the area with lime, chalk, and phosphate rock in the fall.
If such measures do not help, then herbicides are used, strictly observing the concentration, otherwise only the upper parts of the plant will die, leaving the root intact. Treatment with herbicides should be done 2 times a year – in spring and autumn.

How to get rid of wheatgrass

Another scourge of gardeners is wheatgrass. He has a powerful, deep-rooted root system. There are several ways to combat it, both mechanical and chemical.
The shield method consists of digging up a certain area of ​​earth slightly greater than the depth to which the wheatgrass rhizome descends. You need to put boards in the hole as shields, and sow the area with rye. When the rye grows a little, mow it and dig up the area. Next spring there will be no more wheatgrass.
The cardboard method involves using cardboard. Place cardboard in the area where wheatgrass grows, sprinkle with a small amount of soil, and plant herbs with a small root system. The cardboard will suppress the growth of the weed, and it will subsequently rot.
The vinegar method involves fighting wheatgrass by spraying plants with vinegar. Vinegar corrodes not only the top part of the plant, but also the roots. At the same time, the vinegar itself quickly decomposes into carbon dioxide and water, without threatening the soil and other plants.
If these measures are too labor-intensive for you, you can, after digging up the area clogged with wheatgrass and removing its parts, plant it with zucchini, pumpkins, and dahlias.
Many people use herbicides to control wheatgrass.

How to get rid of thistle

Another enemy for the gardener is sow thistle. The roots of this thistle are well developed, long, with developed appendages. A small area of ​​the plant is enough to form a new plant.
Herbicides are mainly used for control.
They use weeding and digging. When weeding, the top layer is damaged, photosynthetic products do not enter the roots, so recovery requires 2 to 3 weeks. Digging is best done in the fall, when the seeds remain on the surface and are destroyed by frost.
Mulching with sawdust, straw, and film also helps.

How to get rid of dreams

Mossy is a perennial plant with a developed root system, creeping. The gooseberry is a valuable honey plant.
Dryweed is destroyed by digging and combing the soil from roots and other parts of the plant. It does not tolerate sunny areas well.
You should mow the tree before its seeds ripen.
You can also use the cardboard method described earlier.
The gooseberry does not tolerate hilling, so the area can be planted with potatoes if possible.
If these measures do not help, herbicides can be used in small quantities, carefully injecting them into the stem of the plant using a syringe.

How to get rid of dandelion

Dandelion is a plant with a large root.
There are several ways to get rid of dandelion.
The dandelion can be pulled out or dug up by the roots.
It is also possible to kill a dandelion with salt. Pour salt into the center of the plant, wait for it to wilt, but do not overdo it, as nearby plants may die.
There is a special tool for fighting dandelions. This is a large V-shaped screw made from blades. The screw is immersed in the ground to the required depth, after which the button is pressed, the mechanism is activated and the entire dandelion appears on the surface.
Corn gluten gluten (CGM) can be used, but it is only effective for 5 to 6 weeks before further processing is required.
You can boil the vinegar a little to increase acidity, pour it into a spray bottle, and spray the plant.
Seeds should not be allowed to spread.
As a last resort, herbicides are used; they are mainly used in the fall.

Loosening

For plant health and a rich harvest, it is necessary to properly care for the soil. In addition to regular weeding and fertilizing, the soil requires loosening.
Loosening is the name given to surface tillage of the soil, which improves the structure of the soil and helps air penetrate deep into the soil.
During the loosening process, unlike digging, the layers of soil are not turned over. When loosening, the hard earthen surface crust is destroyed. At the same time, emerging weeds can be removed. It is better to dig up large weeds.
The soil in the garden should be loosened frequently, as this reduces the evaporation of moisture from it. Loose soil absorbs water better when watering or during rain. Shovels, hoes and cultivators are used for loosening.

When removing weeds, people do not think about the fact that some of them have unique medicinal properties. These plants have great potential useful properties. Thanks to its unique medicinal characteristics, quinoa herb can help your health. This plant can reach a height of 1.5 meters. It has more than two hundred species. Quinoa grass is found not only in vegetable beds and gardens, but also in fields, wastelands, along roads and rivers. The plant blooms in mid-July with small light green flowers. After flowering, fruits and nuts are formed.

Chemical composition

Quinoa grass is rich in plant proteins - it contains more than thirty percent of this substance. For your information, mushrooms contain the same amount of protein.

The grass also contains a lot of fiber, amino acids, essential oils, pectins, alkaloids, saponins. The plant contains potassium, sodium, phosphorus, magnesium and other trace elements. Quinoa also contains iron, copper, zinc, and manganese.

Quinoa grass is rich in vitamins. A large number of different useful elements were found in its composition. Here you can find:

Benefits of the plant

Remedies prepared from the plant have a calming effect, increase diuresis, and fight constipation.

The potassium contained in the composition helps with heart function, and iron is useful for anemia. Vitamin K helps with bleeding. Fiber removes toxins and helps prevent constipation.

The plant provides good results in the treatment of the upper respiratory tract. In folk medicine, the plant helps to cope with dry cough and fights infectious agents. The herb is also useful for those who want to lose weight. It is used as food additives. It helps you get all the substances your body needs and feel full.

In folk medicine, the herb is used for intestinal dysfunction, during stomach colic. The decoction helps women get rid of painful periods and treats thrush.

Collection and procurement rules

The raw materials are dried in a ventilated area or under a canopy. The preparations are stored in paper bags for no more than a year. After this time she loses her medicinal properties.

Preparing the infusion

To prepare an infusion of quinoa, you need to pour a spoonful of the raw material with a glass of boiling water and let the product brew for a couple of hours. After filtering, take the composition by spoon up to four times a day. The infusion can be prepared not only from dry quinoa, but also from fresh leaves.

The resulting remedy helps cope with infections of the respiratory system. It has an anti-inflammatory, antiseptic effect, and helps remove phlegm.

The infusion is used in gynecology, for intestinal disorders, and as a sedative. They are recommended to gargle and gargle in case of periodontal disease, gingivitis, and bleeding gums.

Lotions with infusion help fight skin ailments.

Quinoa decoction

Knowing what quinoa grass looks like, you can prepare enough of it for the whole year. You can make useful decoctions with it. For them, take twenty grams of the plant and a glass of water. The product is simmered over low heat for ten minutes, after which it is allowed to cool. Then the composition is filtered. Taken orally in a glass three times a day after meals for intestinal disorders and cardiovascular diseases. The decoction helps with sore throat and gum pathology.

In gynecology, quinoa decoction is used for douching. To do this, prepare a decoction according to a different recipe: four tablespoons of the raw material are poured into a glass of water and boiled for a quarter of an hour. The finished broth is diluted with a liter of boiled, cooled water.

Fresh grass

For compresses for radiculitis, to relieve swelling, as well as for sore joints, fresh herbs are used. For treatment, take a bunch of the plant and brew it hot water. Then the product is infused for five minutes. When steamed, the leaves are applied to sore spots and wrapped with a blanket or towel on top. The grass lasts until it cools. You can leave the compress on overnight.

Healthy tea

Fresh juice

To make the juice, the herb is soaked in water for several hours to make it juicier. Leaves and stems are crushed with a meat grinder or blender. The resulting slurry is spread on gauze or cloth and squeezed out.

The finished product is taken a tablespoon each time with constipation, to cleanse the intestines of toxins. The juice can be diluted with water and gargled for sore throat and bleeding problems. Wounds are washed with juice. Moisten a cloth with this product and apply it to sore spots.

Contraindications for use

Before you go to collect a plant, you need to know whether quinoa is a shrub or a herb, and what contraindications there are for using the plant.

Firstly, quinoa is a herb, it’s just that it can grow to impressive sizes. Secondly, the plant has a number of contraindications, which should be familiarized with before you start using the product.

Quinoa should not be used by those who suffer from gallstones or kidney stones. It is also contraindicated in case of exacerbations of chronic gastrointestinal diseases and bleeding disorders.

Quinoa is a unique plant. It can not only be used in folk medicine to treat a variety of ailments, but also used in cooking, preparing tasty and healthy dishes.

Every self-respecting summer resident deals with weed control in the garden. Pest plants (bindweed, woodlice, barnyard grass, ...) regularly appear in garden beds, tree and shrub plantings that you have designated only for vegetables and berries. Weeds are divided into annual and perennial. The former are characterized by a high growth rate. Perennial, spreading their roots over several seasons and surviving well winter cold, also bring us a lot of headaches. Methods for exterminating green pests depend on their types and soil characteristics. Therefore, for many, weed control is country garden and in the garden it turns into constant, but extremely necessary and fruitful work.

Throughout the entire time they own their garden plot, summer residents strive to constantly fight weeds. Specifically, there are only a couple of ways to fight: traditional And chemical(from my point of view, more reliable, but somewhat dangerous - see below). The first, in turn, is divided into the following types:

• Mechanical weeding,
• use of covering material,
• mulching,
• planting green manure.

So, in order to understand the features of weed control, it is worth considering the most common methods in more detail.

Traditional methods of fighting

Mechanical weeding

A method that requires a certain regularity. This method is simple and familiar, however, it will require a lot of effort and time. This way the area needs to be treated quite often. Other “freeloaders” of the garden plot know how to take root well in the soil. And only removing the underground part of the plant can deprive them of life. Gardeners have long come up with one trick in the fight against such weeds: instead of a hoe, they use a pitchfork. Then the root system of the plants is not cut, but pulled out of the ground entirely.

After weeding the area, everything that remains is collected and taken outside the garden. This procedure is very labor-intensive, and besides, after just a couple of weeks, young shoots of unnecessary things will certainly turn green in the beds (especially when neighbors’ plots are guilty of this). You need to remove weeds not only when they infest the beds, but also during and after harvesting berries and vegetables. It is worth paying attention to the paths. In this way, the number of wild plants on the site can be reduced as much as possible.

There are several basic rules that help increase the effectiveness of weeding:

1. The depth of soil cultivation depends on the location of the root collar and the location of the root system. For example, if it goes deep (pigweed, horse sorrel, dandelion and plantain), it is recommended to use a shovel or root remover for the procedure. You can also use a rooter. We remove grasses creeping along the ground with a hoe.

2. All dug up weeds are completely removed from the garden. For example, purslane can quickly take root in the ground if left on the site.

3. We fight weeds regularly and systematically.

4. We dig both the beds and areas along the fence.

Using covering material

For this procedure, dark material is used that is not capable of transmitting air and sunlight. Any will do here Construction Materials. Summer residents often use dark film or roofing felt. Clearing the area of ​​weeds in this way is simple. We cover the required beds with light-proof material for 3-4 weeks. In such conditions, all plants die. After removing the film, remove their dead parts with a simple rake.

The peculiarity of this method is the time of the procedure. We try to lay the film early, as soon as the ground thaws slightly.

The exception to the rule is strawberries. It holds up well next to black film. The beds can be completely darkened, leaving only slits for the bushes. As a result, the covering material will contribute to:

• "Attracting" the sun's rays,
• retaining moisture in the soil,
• inhibition of weed growth,
• prevent rotting of berries.

Its application

• Agrofibre is spread on the dried soil, preventing weeds from germinating,
• seedlings are placed in pre-made cross-shaped slots.

Thus, with the help of covering material on strawberries, several problems are solved at once that impede the increase in its productivity in the summer cottage.

Mulching

To obtain mulch we use various natural and artificial materials. Mulch, capable of retaining water well, maintaining the temperature regime for plant growth and serving as an excellent barrier to weed plants, is laid out on the surface of the beds in a layer of 6-7 cm around vegetable crops.

There are several things to consider when laying mulch. When planting in autumn, the protective mass is added immediately after sowing garden crops. In early spring, before laying out a protective layer, you need to check whether the ground has warmed up. If green pests have already begun to grow, the soil is thoroughly weeded. Following this, a thick layer of mulch is laid. This method can also be used in the garden, covering tree trunk circles trees.

As covering material you can use: pine needles, sawdust, compost, expanded clay, peat, roofing felt, husks, straw, as well as fallen leaves and tree bark.

Planting green manure

Green manures are plants that have a beneficial effect on the soil, loosening it and preventing weeds from developing. They are also able to increase fertility and protect the land from erosion. By burying green manure in the soil, summer residents enrich it with organic substances. They are planted in early spring or autumn, after harvesting. Such plants include: peas, white mustard, buckwheat, lupine, alfalfa, wheat, radish, rye, etc.

One of the plants that suppress the growth of weeds is peas. It is planted in the spring in the most overgrown areas. When fruiting is complete, the pea stems are buried in the same bed. By the end of October, wheat and rye seeds can be sown in the garden and then leveled with a rake. In the spring, the seedlings begin to germinate and by mid-summer they produce many shoots that successfully shade out the weeds.

Crops such as onions, lettuce or potatoes that are planted in early spring should be planted in the fall. They remain in the garden until May, forming a lush green mass. Before planting the desired crops, green manure is pruned. The holes in which the vegetables will be planted are weeded out.

Typically, such useful plants are sown in mid-June, after the first mechanical processing of the garden. If the weeds become more active, it is enough to scatter green manure seeds around the area, and they will soon drown them out.

By mid-September, when some plots in the dacha are already empty, they can be sown with mustard, radish, or rapeseed. Before the first cold weather, they will have time to provide enough green mass for fertilizer and choke out weeds. The main rule when sowing green manure is to observe crop rotation. You cannot plant related crops every year; they must always be changed and not plowed under when planting.

And two more methods of struggle

Drip irrigation, used on open ground and in greenhouses, consists in saturating with moisture only useful plants. But even with this approach, you will still have to regularly weed the beds, but their number will decrease several times.

There is another method of struggle, which is very controversial for Russian (and not only) summer residents. Its essence lies in soil disinfection a month before planting. Ethyl alcohol is used as the active element. It is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. A bucket of this solution is enough for 2-2.5 acres.

Chemical control methods

Most common weeds cannot resist chemical attack. Particularly popular among summer residents are herbicides of continuous action (killing all types of plants) and selective action. The first include: Roundup, Tornado, Chistopol, Ground(all are interchangeable). They are applied to visible parts of crops - stems, leaves, inflorescences. The toxic substance is absorbed by plant leaves and slowly accumulates in the roots. However, we are very careful about the process of their use, since the smallest drops of herbicides can easily destroy cultivated plants.

The advantage of such preparations is their safety for the soil. No pollution occurs during their exposure (they completely decompose without harming nature). The duration of action of herbicides is determined by their composition and the level of resistance of the weeds being treated. Most often, 2 weeks are enough for the area to be completely cleared.

Sometimes, in order to remove plants unnecessary for the garden, regulation of the soil composition is used. For example, to combat some mosses, river sand mixed with vitriol and urea (5:1:1) is used. To get rid of woodlice, a mixture of lime and ash is used.

Common harmful weeds on the site, how to get rid of them

Now it’s worth considering the features of combating specific types of harmful weeds. In most cases, the following common types grow in the garden:

Sometimes it grows up to 3 meters tall. It suppresses all other cultures at a distance of a meter from itself. In addition, its stems secrete juice that is harmful to humans, which can, after contact with the skin, cause poorly healing burns. When dealing with it, you should wear thick, waterproof gloves. The fight against hogweed is not an easy procedure. In a good way, it needs to be completely dug up and burned before the seeds appear.

Experienced gardeners recommend following the following procedures to destroy this weed: cut an adult plant at the root and pour vinegar essence into its tube - 1 tbsp. spoon (you can also use table salt- 2 tbsp. spoons). The procedure should be performed before the seeds ripen (the young shoots of this plant can be sprayed with chemicals, but only double the recommended dose). Undiluted Ground (10 ml per plant) helps to completely destroy this malicious weed, but this will be an expensive pleasure.

All this is great, but it remains a big problem in the form of hogweed seeds, previously introduced into the soil and capable of spoiling our mood for ten years. So, if you just need to start cultivating one of the plots in your dacha, maybe you should just plant a lawn in this place?

Weeding, which is the most unpleasant task, has a prickly stem, strong roots and the ability to fill an area with great speed. In the process of ordinary weeding, a gardener requires a lot of effort, strong gloves and considerable punctuality. An alternative is to mulch the soil. For this, sawdust, opaque film and straw are used. The same Roundup and similar herbicides also help to exterminate thistles.

It is useless to weed; the plant penetrates the soil by 40 cm, and sprouts appear from the smallest piece of root. To destroy the weed, it is necessary to completely dig up the soil and remove every root. Until spring, it is recommended to cover areas of abundant growth with dark film. Hilling will also be effective in the fight against weeds. Planting potatoes becomes in a good way destroying annoying weeds.

Along with wireworm (!) it is an indicator acidic soil. It also indicates a lack of sunlight in the area. During the season, woodlice changes several generations. To combat this weed (although it is good for health), you need to add ash to the soil in the fall (and the more, the better). Chalk and lime are used with the same success. Due to this, the acidity of the soil decreases and the woodlice goes away on its own. Easily destroys her and Roundup comrades. It should be used according to the instructions.

It is believed to survive in any conditions. Its roots go 1 meter into the ground. Wheatgrass seeds germinate after 2 weeks. The best way to get rid of a malicious weed is to dig up the soil in the problem area with a pitchfork (to a depth of at least 30 cm). In this case, you need to carefully select the roots. But even a slight increase in the dose of Roundup (by 20 percent) guarantees the complete destruction of this problem plant.

Weeds that can be controlled quite easily (by pulling them out by the roots) include wormwood, plantain and quinoa (pictured in turn).

However, not everything that grows besides planted crops poses a danger to them. For example, nettle is beneficial for the soil and neighboring plants.

Weed control in the garden is a painstaking and time-consuming task. And don’t forget to tend not only the beds, but also the areas around them.