There is an opinion that caring for rhododendron is quite difficult, and the shrub itself is capricious, so not everyone will grow it in a moderately cold climate. And only after getting to know this amazing and beautiful plant, you understand that it’s not a matter of complexity, but the specifics of culture. Rhododendron isn't complicated - it's just not like everyone else.

A rhododendron bush in bloom - such a beauty is worth the effort!

General requirements for the growing environment

It so happened that rhododendron is considered one of the elite of the flower and decorative kingdom. Having purchased such a valuable specimen, many strive to give it the best place in the garden - in the sun, with fertile soil generously seasoned with humus. Stereotypes come into play that have nothing to do with the real needs of the crop, and this is the main mistake of inexperienced gardeners.

IN natural conditions Most types of rhododendrons grow in the undergrowth, that is, in a special microclimate under the tree canopy, where they are reliably protected from the scorching sun, piercing winds, and drafts. When planting rhododendrons in the garden, they need to create growing conditions, focusing on the principles of life in the natural environment.

1. Light is needed intense, but diffused. It is this lighting in the lower tiers of the forest, and it is this intensity of solar radiation that determines the structure of the leaves and the type of photosynthesis. Evergreen species are more sensitive to excess sun - they get leaf burns in open spaces.
2. Acidic and well-drained soil. Under natural conditions, most of the root system (and in rhododendrons it is superficial) is located in the deciduous forest litter, consisting of rotted and fresh litter, humus, and podzolic soil. This medium is not very nutritious, has an acidic pH, but is saturated with air, which is important given the structure of the plant’s roots.
3. Symbiosis with fungi is the basis of plant nutrition. The roots of rhododendron, like other members of the heather family, do not have root hairs. Supplier Role nutrients The mycelium of mycorrhiza, the simplest fungi that live directly in the cells of the plant, carries out the process from the soil into the tissue. To prevent the mycelium from suffocating, you need constant influx air, therefore dense clay soils They are absolutely not suitable for heather crops.
4. Increased soil and air humidity. Rhododendrons have a special attitude towards moisture - they suffer from both a lack of water and an excess, especially in cases of stagnation or flooding. The problem is solved by the correctly selected structure of the planting substrate, which must not only be filled with moisture and retain it, but also have sufficient aeration.
5. Protection from winds and drafts. Many, including winter-hardy species that can tolerate temperatures of -30⁰ C and below, suffer from winter piercing winds and drafts. For protection, agrotechnical techniques are used - a protected place, shelter for the winter, planting in groups.

Thus, if rhododendrons are grown taking into account biological features, they will not create any problems and will delight their owners with magnificent flowering for decades.

Evergreen rhododendron in bloom

Correct selection and planting is the key to plant longevity

To prevent purchased rhododendrons from becoming a one-season crop, you should thoroughly prepare for receiving the plant. Agrotechnical measures preceding planting are conventionally divided into several stages - choice suitable variety, stocking components for the substrate, selecting a site.

Plant selection

Agricultural technology for planting and caring for rhododendron largely depends on the species. For those new to gardening, or if you are unsure of the temperature in your area, it is best to start with deciduous varieties. Firstly, they are more adapted to cold climates and do not require crown cover for the winter; secondly, they are not so demanding of moisture and can grow in open sun.

From deciduous shrubs for middle zone suitable R. canadian, Japanese, Daurian, Schlippenbach, yellow, pink. Moreover, it is better to start with species rather than varieties - they are more viable and resistant to unfavorable conditions.

If you still choose evergreen rhododendrons, start with the Katevbinsky, Caucasian, Yakushimansky species or varieties and hybrids created on their genotype.

Important! When choosing planting material give preference to plants from local nurseries. Although they are not as attractive as those grown in the mild climate of Europe, they are hardened and adapted to the conditions of the region. The optimal age of the seedling is 3–4 years.

A properly selected variety overwinters well even without shelter.

Selecting a location

The most problematic areas of the garden, unsuitable for light-loving crops, are often suitable for growing rhododendrons - in the shade of trees, on the north, northwest side of buildings. The main thing is that it is secluded, protected from the prevailing winds and midday sun rays in the region.

When placing shrubs under trees, you need to choose varieties of the latter with a deep root system in order to delimit the feeding zones of the plants. Rhododendrons prefer to be grown next to pine trees, junipers, oaks, maples, and apple trees.

Substrate preparation

In our gardens, soil suitable for growing rhododendrons is quite rare, so the planting substrate should be prepared in advance. Necessary components for the soil mixture:

• high-moor (red peat) with an acidic pH;
• coniferous litter, consisting of half-decomposed needles, twigs, cones, mixed with humus and other plant debris;
• river sand or sandy soil (top fertile layer);
• rotted sawdust of coniferous trees.

The substrate is prepared from peat and pine litter in equal proportions with the addition of one part of garden soil or river sand. Needles can be replaced with sawdust, ordinary lowland peat can be acidified by adding sphagnum moss, acidic fertilizers, for example, potassium sulfate or ammonium. The main thing is that the substrate is light, breathable and acidic. If there is nowhere to get suitable ingredients for the substrate, you can purchase targeted soil for azaleas.

Important! One of the reasons why rhododendron does not bloom may be alkaline soil. Such an environment has a depressing effect on the plant - in addition to the fact that it does not bloom, it grows weakly, is attacked by pests, and chlorosis of the leaves develops.

Landing technology

Seedlings grown in containers are planted both in spring and autumn. IN spring period– it is advisable to do this before the start of active growing season, approximately in April. The autumn planting month is September, so that the plant has time to take root and adapt before the cold weather.

Mandatory agrotechnical requirement when planting shrubs, prepare a deep (at least 50 cm) and wide (60–70 cm) planting hole, which is filled with prepared substrate. It is carefully compacted and spilled with water.

Before planting, the seedling is immersed in water so that the earthen lump becomes limp, the roots are straightened and placed in the prepared hole. Another requirement is that under no circumstances should the root collar be buried; it should be at the same level as before transplantation.

After planting, the root zone must be mulched. Suitable for these purposes pine needles, rotted sawdust, leaves, straw. Their layer should be at least 5–7 cm thick. Mulch not only retains moisture, but also serves as a light organic fertilizer for rhododendrons.

The shrub loves group plantings - natural thickets reliably protect the shoots from winds and freezing. The distance between seedlings depends on the height of the adult shrub, but not less than 1 meter.

The planting hole is much larger than the size of the root ball - this is a reserve for growth and nutrition for many years to come

Seasons: seasonal concerns

For rhododendron, the specifics of care are determined by seasonal changes: in the spring - emergence from winter sleep and preparation for flowering, in the summer - care about the growth and formation of flowering buds for the next year, in the fall - preparation for winter.

Spring chores

When positive temperatures are established and there are no strong night frosts, the covering material is removed. This should be done in cloudy weather, in several stages, gradually opening the bush, first from the north, and a little later from the south. Leaves that have overwintered without access to light are sensitive to the bright spring sun and can get burned.

In the spring, rhododendron leaves remain curled for some time, not receiving an impulse from the roots, so the first thing to do is to start the root system. To do this, mulch is raked away so that the soil thaws faster. If after a week the leaves are still curled, it means they have lost a lot of moisture and the root zone needs to be watered. warm water.

After the buds swell, the bush is inspected and frozen shoots and dried branches are removed. If the weather is dry, the plant must be watered at least 2-3 times a week before flowering. Watering rate is 10–15 liters per adult bush.

Important! Water for watering rhododendrons should have a pH level in the range of 4–5 units, otherwise it will alkalize the soil, which is undesirable. To acidify water, dissolve 3–4 g of citric, oxalic, acetic (70%) acid or 15–20 ml of battery electrolyte in 10 liters of liquid.

Spring is the only time of year when rhododendrons can be fed with organic fertilizers. You can only use well-rotted manure; if possible, high-moor peat is added to it. A bucket of this mixture is poured into the tree trunk instead of mulch and watered abundantly.

How to feed rhododendrons in the spring if there is no organic matter? At the end of flowering, targeted fertilizing is effective complex fertilizers Kemira for azaleas (rhododendrons). It is completely balanced and, in addition to containing the necessary nutrients, acidifies the soil.

The evergreen rhododendron is about to open its bright buds

Summer care

After flowering, caring for rhododendron is aimed at replenishing strength for the growth of young shoots and the formation of flower buds. The plant needs the following agrotechnical measures.

• Regular, abundant watering and spraying of the crown with water at summer temperatures during the hottest hours.
• Removing the seed pods so that the bush does not waste energy on ripening the seeds, but directs them to young growth. This should be done in hot weather so that the injured shoot dries out immediately.
• If the plant was not fertilized with Kemira during flowering, it needs June fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizer, for example, ammonium nitrate(25–30 g per 10 liters of water). Nitrogen is needed for the growth of green shoots. Watering rate is 2 buckets of solution per adult bush.
• In addition to feeding rhododendrons in the spring and June, some gardeners recommend applying fertilizers in the second half of July. By this time, the shoot has finished growing, its leaves become dense, leathery, and at the top it appears flower bud. Feeding at this time with a phosphorus-potassium composition is a guarantee abundant flowering next year.

Advice! For feeding in three steps - in early spring(100 g/m²), during flowering (100 g/m²) and in mid-July (50 g/m²) use the following universal composition of acidic fertilizers. Mix superphosphate (10 parts) and sulfates - ammonium (9), potassium (4), magnesium (2).

By the end of summer, a flower bud has formed at the top of each shoot - now the main thing is to preserve it until spring.

Preparing for winter

An important element of rhododendron care is proper preparation for winter.

An evergreen shrub must be very well saturated with moisture in winter so that it is enough for the long months of cold weather, so it is recommended to water it abundantly in the fall. Deciduous shrubs need watering only in dry weather.

Both deciduous and evergreen species need to cover the root system with a thick layer of mulch (up to 20 cm). The soil is covered in a near-trunk circle to the radius of the crown.

For shelter, a frame of wire or wooden slats is built around the bush - a sort of improvised wigwam. It is covered with spruce branches or covered with 2 layers of breathable covering material (burlap, lutrasil). Low-growing varieties are covered with fallen leaves and pine needles.

Shelter ornamental shrub spruce spruce branches

When growing rhododendrons, the main thing is to understand their nature, learn to recognize problems and needs by the condition and appearance of the bush. The plant is responsive not only to correct agricultural technology, but love and care and will definitely reciprocate.

Video about preparing rhododendrons for winter:

h

The first time you hear the name of a flower – rhododendron, it’s hard to even imagine how delicate and tender this plant is. In order to grow it on summer cottage, you have to create everything the necessary conditions for its flowering. If rhododendrons are planted in the right area, in prepared soil and mulched, then caring for them becomes much easier. In today's article we will look at all the necessary conditions for growing rhododendrons, and also get acquainted with the most popular types of these flowers.

Suitable lighting and temperature

Rhododendron reacts poorly to direct rays of the sun and highly lit areas of the ground; their destiny is shade and partial shade.

Advice: In order to understand whether it is suitable this flower lighting, just look at its leaves. With optimal lighting, the leaves of evergreen rhododendrons are healthy, dark green, they are very decorative not only in summer, but also in winter, but if there is too much light, the flower petals become faded.

In nature, rhododendron bushes can be found, as a rule, in mountainous areas, so it is not surprising that it is there that the ideal relationship between temperature and humidity level is maintained for them.

Rhododendron bushes are practically insensitive to temperature changes - if you properly prepare for the winter season, this plant will survive the harshest winter, without digging. IN summer period optimal temperature 18-25 degrees, if the summer is hot, then you should be very careful about watering and additional spraying of the plant.

Optimal watering

The rhododendron plant should not experience a lack of moisture, especially in the first year after planting. There is absolutely no point in flooding the bushes; excess moisture is also not suitable for this plant; it is better to water little by little, but constantly. The quality of the water used to water the plant plays a huge role in watering; it should be soft, which will also work rainwater or water from a clean reservoir.

In dry weather, the plant should be helped with regular spraying, especially during the period of active growth, if there is even the slightest suspicion that they are experiencing water deficiency.

Advice: In order to understand that the rhododendron flower does not have enough moisture, you need to pay attention to the leaves, they become dull and droop, and appear at the edges. brown spots, similar to fungal diseases.

Soil and place for planting

When choosing a place to plant, you should pay attention to the shade this area and on the trees that will be in the neighborhood. It should also be kept in mind that it must be protected from prevailing winds and direct sunlight. They do best in wooded areas, especially under pine trees and not very dense spruce trees. If there are no such trees on the site, then areas directly adjacent to the northern walls of the house and other buildings are perfect.

As for the soil, it must be acidic, air- and moisture-permeable. Optimal composition: high-moor peat (acidic), garden soil (loam) and pine litter, taken in equal parts.

Feeding rhododendrons

The rhododendron plant needs fertilizing before flowering, immediately after it and at the end of summer - at the beginning of autumn. You don’t need to invent anything special here; you can find ready-made ones in any gardening store. soluble fertilizers for rhododendrons, 20-30 grams per 1 liter of water will be more than enough for one plant; you can add 5-10 grams of any nitrogen fertilizer to it.

Propagation of rhododendrons

Rhododendrons can be propagated different ways: seeds, cuttings, layering, grafting. Amateur gardeners prefer the vegetative method of layering. To do this, young flexible shoots take root next to the mother plant. At the same time, the inclined shoot is partially placed in a hole no shallower than 15 cm deep. Already next season, you can safely dig up this new bush and replant it in appropriate place.

For cuttings, take semi-lignified shoots, cut them into cuttings 5-8 cm long, lower leaves removed, leaving the top 2-3 completely. Rhododendrons take root quite difficult, so it is better to keep the cuttings in a solution of growth stimulants for 12-16 hours. After which the cuttings are ready for rooting.

Preparing the plant for winter

In winter, rhododendron needs special care. Since the fall, you should carefully monitor watering, it should not be less than 12-13 liters of water at a time, then before the first frost, the bushes should be wrapped in burlap and secured with twine, this simple method will allow you not to disturb the flow of air to the plant. This shelter can be removed only when the night frosts have passed.

Advice: In spring, you should be wary of the afternoon sun no less than frosts. So for this procedure you should choose a cloudy day so as not to harm the fragile plant.

Preparing the plant for winter

The most popular types of rhododendrons:

o Japanese rhododendron


o Rhododendron Schlippenbach


o Pink rhododendron “Percy Weissman”


o Rhododendron white

General information about rhododendron

The rhododendron plant blooms stunningly in the spring. It refers to evergreens. The plant blooms from May to June.

In today's article you will learn how to feed rhododendron during the main periods - before and after flowering - as well as how to care for the plant before the start of winter.

Popular varieties of rhododendron:

• Maurits
• Haaga
• Elvira
• Daughter of the North

Feeding rhododendron before flowering

Every florist wants to get something beautiful, flowering plant at home, so I’m ready to use all the techniques for abundant flowering. Feeding rhododendron before flowering is aimed at enhancing the formation of buds. It is necessary to focus on the purchase of mineral fertilizers.

What fertilizers to use to feed rhododendron:

• Drug "Bud"
• "Azofoska"

Mineral fertilizers for rhododendron:

• Superphosphate + 4 kg dry universal fertilizer+ 100 liters of water (for large bushes).
• Ammonium sulfate
• Magnesium sulfate
• Potassium nitrate

Organic fertilizers for rhododendron:

• Rotted manure (5 cm around the perimeter).

In order to activate the microprocesses of development, rhododendron is fed for several days. It is recommended to add rhododendron under the bush slurry(diluted to light Brown), as well as phosphorus fertilizers.

During the budding period, nitrogen fertilizers are suitable for rhododendrons, which form the green part of the plant, as well as phosphorus fertilizers, which affect the formation of buds.

In early August, rhododendrons can be fertilized leaf by leaf, that is, using the technique foliar feeding based on a solution of potassium sulfate (1%).

After flowering ends (in June), the rhododendron is weakened. The plant is prepared for winter period. Before frost sets in, you need to treat the rhododendron with Bordeaux mixture. The solution protects the flower from diseases and strengthens the condition of the plant, preparing it for the dormant period.

How to feed rhododendron after flowering:

• Bordeaux liquid
• Copper sulfate

In the store you can purchase special fertilizers for rhododendrons and dilute them according to the recipe: 30 grams of fertilizer per 1 liter of water + 5 grams nitrogen fertilizer(any).

How to prepare rhododendron for winter after flowering?

Rhododendron requires special care after flowering to prepare for winter. What care techniques to use for care:

1. Reduce watering to 12 liters at a time for adult plants.
2. Cover the rhododendron bushes with burlap + twine.
3. Form a pocket to allow air to enter the flower.
4. Ventilate regularly, but during cold periods.
5. Remove the shelter after the end of night frosts.

The future flowering of the plant also depends on proper wintering. Rhododendron is an easy-to-care plant, but it requires a specific approach. For example, in the spring, after warming, they rush to open rhododendron, but the sun's rays during this period can harm the plant. It is better to carry out the procedure on a cloudy day or in the late afternoon. To prevent damage to a fragile plant, basic care should be introduced gradually.

We consider caring for rhododendron in open ground spring, summer, autumn and winter. The following are described in detail: watering, fertilizing, fertilizers, pruning and flowering, as well as preparation for winter, pests and diseases.

Plus regional features: Moscow region, Ural, Siberia, North-West (Leningrad region) and the Middle zone.

Planting lays the foundation for further plant care in open ground. If it is planted in the right place in the right soil mixture, then further care much simpler. We described how to do this correctly in a special material - see at the bottom of the page.

In spring, the flower awakens after winter and you need to help it recover, save it from drying out and rotting. Caring for rhododendron in spring and summer consists of regular watering and spraying, fertilizing, pruning and disease prevention.

Saving the kidneys from drying out

1. After active snow melting (mid-March - early April), the soil can slowly thaw and the sun can become hot. The evaporation of moisture from the buds and leaves increases, and the roots are constrained and have not awakened.
2. Therefore, free the bush from last year’s frozen mulch (you can loosen it and remove half the layer) so that the ground near the roots thaws faster.
   This will allow the roots to start working and save the buds from drying out. It is especially important to remove the mulch quickly if the winter was cold or with little snow.
3. Water the rose tree hot water(even boiling water) and spray with warm water.
4. If the rhododendron overwintered without shelter, then make a protective shield from the sun on the south and west sides. Drive in the stakes and stretch the fabric. Read more in the article “Preparing for winter” - link at the bottom of the page.
5. After complete thawing of the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm (beginning - mid-April), on a cloudy day or in the evening, remove the protective cover (covering material) or winter shelter.

If you still find signs of burns on the shoots, the buds have dried out and do not begin to grow, then spray them with warm water every day, and every 3-4 days with a growth stimulant (Zircon, Epin, etc.).

Rhododendron flower buds in spring after removing winter cover

Rhododendron pruning

Trim the plant only if necessary (once every 2-5 years): if you need to update an old specimen, shorten a bush that is too tall, or remove frozen stems.

Classic formative pruning is not necessary because the natural shape of the plant is correct and attractive in 99% of cases.

Rules

• Carry out pruning before the buds swell (mid-March - early April).
• The cut should be made directly above the dormant growth point - a small pinkish swelling-thickening. Be sure to learn how to identify them.
• Treat each cut with garden varnish.
• Provide pruned specimens with regular watering and fertilizing during the active growing season.

Species features

1. Small deciduous species need to be rejuvenated every 5-7 years, and large ones (Canadian and others) every 14-18 years.
2. Small-leaved evergreen species up to 4-5 years old need to be pruned to stimulate branching. If desired, you can even create a ball shape. Since powerful flowering is observed even in 20-25 year old branches, they are rarely pruned.
3. Evergreen species with large leaves are pruned every spring by 1-3 shoots from their total number so that the lateral branches develop better. Otherwise, in a few years these shoots will become ugly and long branches with leaves only at the top. The leaves themselves will become small and the flowering will be weak.

How to trim a large bush?

Trim the shoots in places 2-4 cm thick near dormant buds. After 20-25 days, the dormant buds will wake up and begin to grow, and next year the decorative appearance of the bush will be restored.

How to rejuvenate a bush?

To rejuvenate very old bushes or those seriously damaged by frost and wind, cut the branches at a level of 30-40 cm from the soil near dormant buds: first one half, and after a year the other, to facilitate rehabilitation.

Rejuvenating pruning of evergreen rhododendron after an unsuccessful winter

Advice

If you want a thick and spreading deciduous rhododendron, then pinch out seasonal shoots in June for the first 3-4 years after planting, and cut off all weak stems inside the crown in September.

How to water rhododendron?

A deficiency or excess of water is undesirable for a plant. Prolonged lack of water prevents the seasonal growth of shoots, impairs flowering and reduces decorativeness (leaves dry out, turn yellow, and old leaves fall off en masse).

• Leaves signal a lack of moisture. Due to the loss of turgor, they droop, wither and acquire a matte tint. Lack of watering aggravates the situation: the leaves turn yellow, brown (edges and central vein), dry out and die.

“Rosewood” is harmed by stagnation of water, and it is sensitive to excessive amounts of moisture in the soil. This disrupts the development of the flower, since little oxygen reaches the roots. At the same time, the leaves also turn yellow, wither and fall off.

The frequency of watering is affected by the planting location, the composition of the soil mixture and climatic conditions. Rhododendron, planted in a favorable location and in the correct soil mixture, needs less frequent watering.

Ideally, determine the frequency of watering yourself based on the condition of the leaves and the amount of precipitation. As soon as they become dull (the shine has disappeared) and drooped a little, they need moisture. Therefore, watch for these signs and accumulate your personal experience.

The most important periods for watering: active growth and development (April - mid-July) and preparation for winter (mid-September - November).

April - July

During the period of intensive growing season, during the flowering period and after it, there is an increased need for moisture; the root ball should not be allowed to dry out. Therefore, every 4-7 days, water 10-14 liters of water into the tree trunk circle under an adult bush.

If spring and summer are hot and there is little rain, then you need to water more often and supplement with spraying. Every 2-3 days, early in the morning or late evening, spray the leaves with water.

August and September

At the same time, in August and September it is necessary to water less often - 10-14 liters of water every 8-12 days, otherwise secondary growth of stems is possible.

Loosening the soil

Others believe that it is advisable to weed 3-4 times over the summer, but very carefully: loosen 1-2 times in one place 3-4 cm deep.

Adviсe

Water for watering and spraying the “rose tree” should be soft and acidified (pH 4.0-5.0) - a teaspoon of citric or oxalic acid per 10 liters of water.

Feeding and fertilizers

Proper feeding ensures good growth and development, powerful and beautiful bloom, and also increases the resistance of rhododendron to adverse external factors(pests, frost, diseases, wind).

• The most important periods: March - April and immediately after flowering.

It is advisable to use liquid fertilizer. Wherein nutrient solution low concentration is required because rhododendron grows slowly and the roots lie close to the surface.

Signs of need for feeding

Light, pale leaves without shine. Yellowish-green shoots. Small seasonal increase. Weak or no flowering. Old leaves fall off en masse in August.

Change in leaf color is the first symptom of nutrient deficiency.

What fertilizer to use for rhododendrons?

A good option would be to use a special fertilizer; it has a balanced composition. mineral elements and rapid solubility. You can also use complex mineral fertilizers, for example, “Kemira-universal” and organic.

Organic fertilizers

According to experts, organic fertilizers are more preferable because they are better absorbed than mineral ones and improve the soil (looseness, moisture and air permeability).

• Of these, it is better to use: blood meal, semi-rotted cow dung and horn flour. Do not use: bird droppings, pig and horse manure.

Fill the semi-rotted manure with water 1:15-20 and leave for 3-4 days. Before fertilizing, water the bush (the root ball should be completely wet). Can only be used from April to the end of June.

In spring or autumn, semi-rotted manure can be scattered near the bush in a 4-5 cm layer on the surface of the ground, so that the necessary elements feed it with the incoming moisture from rain or melting snow.

Mineral fertilizers

Since rosewood prefers acidic soils, it is necessary to use acidic fertilizers. These are mainly: potassium nitrate, superphosphate, potassium phosphate and sulfates - ammonium, potassium, calcium and magnesium. Fertilizers containing chlorine are prohibited.

The nutrient solution for feeding should be 0.1-0.2% i.e. 1 gram of substance per liter of water, and potash fertilizers – 0,05-0,1%.

Feeding schedule

After winter, rhododendron needs to be fed, and if the acidity level has increased (“”), then the soil needs to be slightly acidified.

To acidify, add a tablespoon of vinegar, oxalic acid or citric acid. Especially if the bush grows on loamy or sandy soil.

1. After the snow melts (late March - early April), water the plant with mullein infusion or dissolve 20 grams of ammonium sulfate, 6 grams of potassium sulfate and 8 grams of superphosphate in 10 liters of water.
   After this, immediately mulch the tree trunk circle with a 6-8 cm layer of pine sawdust or peat.
   This mulch will reduce acidity, retain moisture longer and prevent active growth weeds. The base of the bush cannot be covered; it is better to sprinkle it with coarse sand to prevent rot and stagnation of water.
2. After 20-25 days or 10-14 days before flowering (beginning of budding). Same composition.
3. During flowering or immediately after it. To make the bush bloom more powerfully or regain its strength: 8 grams of superphosphate and 6 grams of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water.

To maintain the required soil acidity after the first and second fertilizing, it is advisable to water with the following solution: 8 grams of potassium phosphate and potassium nitrate per 10 liters of water. If you watered it with mullein infusion, then there is no need.

2nd option

1. Before flowering. Apply 20-30 grams of special fertilizer or Kemira Universal fertilizer (2-3 grams per liter) under the bush. In any of the options, add nitrogen for growth: 5-10 grams of carbamide (urea) or ammonium nitrate.
2. Immediately after flowering. Similar feeding.
3. Late July – early August. 30 grams of superphosphate, 15 grams of potassium sulfate + 10 grams of complex mineral fertilizer per 10 liters of water. Fertilizing accelerates the lignification of shoots and prevents their growth in late summer - early autumn.

3rd option

1. After the snow melts (late March - early April). Scatter over the surface of the earth per 1 m2 or a specimen above 100 cm: 40 g of ammonium sulfate and 20 g each of potassium sulfate and superphosphate or 50 g each of ammonium sulfate and magnesium.
2. After flowering (late May - early June). 20 grams of ammonium sulfate and 10 grams of potassium sulfate and superphosphate.

This option is much easier liquid fertilizers and is suitable for those who have planted a large number of plants.

Adviсe

• Do not use fertilizers that reduce soil acidity, such as wood ash.
• Do not use slow-release granular fertilizers as they may cause secondary growth of stems in August that will freeze in the winter. They are designed for the European climate with six warm months a year.
• If secondary growth does begin, then spray the bush with potassium sulfate - 10 grams per liter of water.
• The editors of the Flower Festival magazine recommend using more organic fertilizers than mineral ones.

Disease Prevention

At the end of April - beginning of May, spill or spray the “rose tree” with copper-containing fungicides (copper oxychloride “HOM”, copper sulfate).

Preventive treatments are especially important for the species: Canada, Ledebur and evergreen species.

Rhododendron blossom

All gardeners expect unique and powerful flowering of the bush every year. Despite his attractive appearance all season long, it is the luxurious inflorescences that create maximum decorativeness and captivate millions of eyes.

When does rhododendron bloom or flowering time?

The timing of flowering depends on the climatic conditions of a particular area and year, the variety and condition of the plant. Typically the flowering period lasts from April to June. Early flowering species (Daurian, Canadian, Ledebura) bloom in mid-late April and in early-mid May they stop blooming.

Then the evergreen large-leaved species begin to bloom in early to mid-May, and are soon joined by deciduous species and varieties based on them.

How long or how long does rhododendron bloom?

Flowering period for different types and varieties lasts a different number of days, on average 16-20 (30-45). The duration of flowering depends on many factors: amount of light, temperature, species characteristics, amount of nutrients, etc.

Care after flowering

To ensure that the “rose tree” blooms profusely every year, break out the inflorescences immediately after they have bloomed (there will be no seeds!). The inflorescence at the base breaks off effortlessly with your hands, but you need to be careful not to damage the young shoots.

This procedure will help the bush direct all its forces to the formation of lateral buds and abundant flowering next season. It will also become more lush, because not one, but 2-3 young shoots will appear at the base of the inflorescence.

Then water the plant generously and feed it with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

• It is especially important to break out the inflorescences of large-leaved species.

Rhododendron Katevbinsky "Grandiflorum" (Grandiflorum)

Rhododendron: care in autumn and preparation for winter

Caring for rhododendron in the fall comes down to preparing for wintering, which includes proper watering, disease prevention, mulching and, if necessary, protection with covering material or construction of a shelter.

Watering

In September we water more often than in August, and in October we need abundant watering before winter, especially in dry autumn and for evergreen species and varieties. Water them until the November frosts. If it is not possible to go to the country in November, then it is better to plant only deciduous rhododendrons.

In rainy autumn, often in the Moscow region and Leningrad region, watering is rare.

• A sufficient amount of moisture in September - October - November contributes to the successful wintering of the plant, increases its endurance, and drought reduces resistance to external negative factors.

Disease Prevention

At the end of September - beginning of October (before frost), treat the plant with Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate or a copper-containing fungicide to prevent fungal diseases.

Preparing for winter and sheltering for the winter

By the beginning of October, the bush should have formed flower (large, round) and growth (smaller and sharper) buds for the next year. The main task is to preserve these buds until spring from freezing, burns, breakage and drying out.

• Since this is a very serious point in caring for rhododendron, we covered it in a special article - see the link at the bottom of the page.

Pests and diseases

Depending on the species and variety, the susceptibility of rhododendrons to diseases and pests differs. According to the observations of gardeners, in an open and sunny area, evergreen species are more likely to suffer from pests and diseases than in light partial shade.

At the same time, strong and strong plant less susceptible to meeting “uninvited guests”. That's why, proper care in open ground behind rhododendron and here it is of decisive importance.

Pests

Possible problems during cultivation

Why do rhododendron leaves turn brown?

Often the leaves turn brown (central vein and edges) not when damaged by any fungal diseases, but due to lack of moisture. This is the main factor.

The tips of the leaves turn brown and dry out due to sunburn in the spring or lack of moisture due to the heat.

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

In addition to a lack or excess of moisture, the reason often lies in low acidity of the soil. Set aside and acidify the water before watering, feed with a buffer solution - the composition in the first fertilizing option.

Flower buds fall off

Reason – heat air and low humidity.

Why do the leaves curl?

Flowers wither due to insufficient watering or low humidity. Spray the plant more often.

If this happened after the first autumn frosts, then there is no need to worry - this is a natural process. Read about this in the article “Preparing for winter.”

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

We wish you proper development and beautiful flowering!

text and photo: OPT-KHOZ online store

Rhododendrons and azaleas - amazing beautiful plants which are all over the world.

Rhododendron (Rhododendron) is the largest genus in the heather family (Ericaceae), named from the Greek words “rhodon” (“rose”) and “dendron” (“tree”) This genus includes about 1300 species and approximately 30 thousand varieties of evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous shrubs and trees.

Gardeners' interest in rhododendrons and azaleas is due to the decorativeness of their foliage and the variety of bush shapes, and most of all -. Plant lovers are captivated by the splendor and abundance of white, pink, lilac, violet, red flowers, collected in umbrella-shaped inflorescences, reminiscent of an exquisite bouquet.

Depending on the species and variety, the flowers of rhododendrons and azaleas vary in size (from 1-1.5 cm to 6-10 cm in diameter) and shape (wheel-shaped, funnel-shaped, bell-shaped and tubular). There are rhododendrons with fragrant flowers.

The autumn decoration of the leaves of some deciduous species of rhododendrons is not inferior in beauty to the bright decoration.

There is a misconception among gardeners about the difficulty of cultivating these plants. However, in central Russia it is no more difficult to breed or. The main thing when growing rhododendrons is to follow a few simple rules common to this culture. When choosing these plants for your garden, keep in mind that only .

Choosing a place in the garden to plant rhododendron

To plant rhododendron, you should choose the most suitable place in the garden, taking into account the biological characteristics of this species. Therefore, before purchasing a plant you like and planting a seedling.

The lighting conditions of the selected plant should be approximately the same as in its natural habitat.
The most suitable place for rhododendron in terms of lighting conditions can be considered a place where there is open sky above the planted bushes (which will provide better access to rainfall and light for the plants), and in the midday hours they will be covered by diffuse shadow from other plants. Perfect option for rhododendron - rare Pine forest or a clearing located between tall pines.

Rhododendrons can be planted near other trees whose roots go deep. For example, near oak or larch.
Tree species with a root system close to the surface (linden, maple, chestnut, poplar, willow, elm, alder) are not suitable for proximity to rhododendron, depriving the rhododendron of moisture and nutrition, which is why it develops poorly and may die. Therefore, in case of forced planting of rhododendron in close proximity to unwanted trees, isolation from their roots must be provided. The feeding area of ​​the rhododendron is insulated using roofing felt, polyethylene or other materials.

For cultivation rhododendrons will do a place on the north side of the building, where the sun illuminates the plants early in the morning and in the afternoon.

When determining a place for planting rhododendrons, care must be taken to protect the bushes from prevailing winds throughout the year, which is very important for this crop. In open areas of the garden, rhododendrons (especially evergreen species) suffer in winter not so much from frost as from the drying effects of the wind.

It is especially undesirable to place rhododendrons near the corners of buildings where there are strong drafts, as well as in free spaces between buildings.
Reliable wind protection for rhododendrons can be provided by the walls of buildings, solid fences, hedges and plantings. coniferous trees.

It is better to plant rhododendrons in an elevated place in the garden, where there is no spring stagnation of water.

Planting rhododendron

Having chosen a suitable place in the garden for the rhododendron, you can begin preparing the seedling for planting.
The distance between bushes of tall rhododendron species is 1.5-2.0 m, medium-sized ones - at least 1.2 m, low-growing ones - 0.5-0.7 m.

Rhododendrons for good growth And lush flowering loose is needed, acidic soil with high content. Lime, dolomite, ash and other materials or fertilizers that shift the soil pH to the alkaline side should not enter the root feeding zone.

The root system of rhododendrons is quite compact, so it is enough to dig a hole 40-50 cm deep (without taking into account the thickness of the layer of drainage materials). The width of the hole depends on the size of the adult plant. For example, for large bushes (Katevba rhododendron, yellow rhododendron), the hole should be at least 80 cm wide.

If the garden soil is clayey, then it is necessary to arrange drainage for the rhododendron seedling - for this, a drainage layer (gravel or broken brick) of about 10 cm is poured onto the bottom of the hole.
The planting hole is then filled with a suitable substrate.

Substrate preparation is the most important component successful cultivation rhododendrons. It should be remembered that in nature, rhododendrons grow on acidic, humus-rich, loose, air- and water-permeable soils. These requirements are best met by a mixture of leaf soil, high-moor peat, and coniferous tree litter (3:2:1).
You can use a substrate consisting only of equal parts of high-moor peat and coniferous litter (pine or spruce).
Experts recommend the following substrate composition for planting rhododendron:
- sphagnum or heather soil (from under coniferous plants);
- humus or ripened;
- Part garden soil;
- cow manure (rotted is better);
- pine litter;
- fertilizer “Kemira-universal” (100 g).

The rhododendron root ball removed from the pot should be well saturated with water before planting. If it is dry, immerse it in water and wait until the release of air bubbles stops.

The rhododendron bush is planted in a hole filled with substrate at the same depth as before.
When planting, do not cover the root collar of rhododendrons with soil! Because of this, plants stop blooming and eventually die.

We take out a rhododendron seedling with a closed root system from the container, carefully straighten the roots (we cut off very long ones).
Substrate in landing pit compact. After planting is complete, water the rhododendron, even in the rain. After planting rhododendron, it is advisable to mulch the soil.

Mulching trunk circle rhododendron is a must, this is a mandatory technique for this crop. Peat, pine litter, or dry leaves (preferably oak) are suitable as mulch. It is undesirable to use maple leaves and horse chestnut, they decompose quickly and have an alkaline reaction. You can mix peat with sawdust.
Mulch helps retain moisture in the soil, protects roots from overheating in hot weather, and from freezing in winter. Mulch suppresses weed growth; rotting, it increases the humus content and acidity of the soil. The mulch layer should be at least 5 cm. When mulching the rhododendron tree trunk circle, you should not fill the root collar.

The first time after planting, for better rooting, rhododendron seedlings should be watered frequently in small portions (3 liters of water per young plant). Then water according to the weather. In dry times, it is better to water the rhododendron daily. Also, during the dry period, you can pour the rhododendron bush “over the head” - over the leaves, but do not do this in the sun.

A young rhododendron seedling (2-3 years old) has a small root ball, so when planted directly in an open place, it will suffer from a lack of moisture due to the rapid drying of the top layer of soil. It is better to first plant such a young plant in some protected shaded place, in a hole with a diameter of 30 cm and a depth of 20-25 cm. And after 2-3 years, transplant the grown rhododendron, as expected, to a permanent place.
Rhododendrons and azaleas tolerate transplantation well up to the age of 5-6 years.

The great advantage of rhododendrons is the possibility of planting or replanting them in the garden at any time in spring, summer and autumn due to their compact fibrous root system.
When planting small rhododendrons in the fall, it is advisable to lightly cover them with spruce branches (do not cover them with soil).

Caring for rhododendrons and azaleas

Rhododendrons do not need pruning. If desired, you can form a bush: pluck out the growing point on the branches, up to the leaves, so that the rhododendron bushes better.

In the photo: frost-resistant azaleas of the varieties “Northern Hi-Lights”, “Klondyke”, “Feuerwerk”

Feeding rhododendrons

Properly planted rhododendrons do not need additional feeding during several years. However, if you want to speed up the onset of the first flowering (or achieve more abundant flowering), then fertilizer is applied.
Fertilizers containing chlorine and lime are not suitable for feeding rhododendrons.

Rhododendrons are fed 2-3 times per season, starting in early spring and ending in mid-July.

There are a variety of liquid and granular fertilizers available that are designed specifically for rhododendrons. They should be applied according to the directions on the package.
You can use ordinary mineral fertilizers that have an acidic reaction: ammonium nitrate, urea, superphosphate, potassium sulfate. Their concentration should not exceed 1:1000 (and potassium - even lower).

As an organic fertilizer for rhododendrons, we can recommend old, semi-rotted cow manure, which is applied on top of the soil in spring or autumn. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the pH of the soil. It is undesirable to use horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, as they increase the pH of the soil.

Azaleas and rhododendrons greatly appreciate monthly watering with sour water infused with ordinary water. To obtain such an infusion, you will need five lemons per 5 liters of water: squeeze out the fruits (throw the squeezed lemons into water) and let stand for 5-6 hours. Next, pour 2.5 liters of this acidified water under one large rhododendron bush or 1.5 liters under a small bush (up to 1 m in height).

Approximate feeding scheme for rhododendron:
- 1 feeding - early in spring;
- 2nd feeding - before flowering;
- 3rd feeding - 2-3 weeks after flowering (but no later than mid-August).
In the spring, fertilize rhododendrons with diluted mullein.
In summer - application of mullein with the addition of potassium and phosphorus. Please note that from the beginning of August, rhododendrons need to begin to be prepared for winter, reducing the amount of nitrogen in fertilizers.
In late autumn - add phosphorus and potassium.

Proper planting and proper care of rhododendrons and azaleas is the key to their endurance, successful wintering and excellent flowering.

On the website website

Weekly Free Site Digest website

Every week, for 10 years, for our 100,000 subscribers, an excellent selection of relevant materials about flowers and gardens, as well as other useful information.

Subscribe and receive!