Sooner or later, they encounter problems associated with the deterioration of the health and decorative value of potted flowers. If there are spots on leaves of one or another species from your flower collection, it is necessary to determine the cause of damage to the leaf blades as soon as possible.

It is possible that the appearance of spots on the leaves is caused by sunburn and it is necessary to shade the flower from direct sunlight. Typically, such damage appears in summer period- yellowish or brown round spots are clearly visible on the leaves, the leaf blade is deformed, and turgor decreases.

But spots on the leaves may appear due to damage to the indoor plant pests(spider mites, flower thrips, scale insects, whitefly larvae, mealybugs, white or green aphids), fungal diseases(mycoses are caused by powdery mildew, gray mold, late blight, fusarium, anthracnose), bacterial diseases(bacteriosis), as well as viral infections , causing leaf spot.

Usually, novice gardeners are faced with damage to plants by pests or diseases, who commit violations in the process of caring for “green pets” at home. Therefore, it is important to carefully inspect all potted flowers as often as possible in order to quickly take action if spots are detected on the leaves. It is much easier to fight pests and diseases at the initial stage of their appearance than after significant areas have been affected, when the chances of saving the plant become less and less.

♦ WHY DO BLACK SPOTS APPEAR ON THE LEAVES OF FLOWERS?

◉ fungal disease phyllostictosis ( brown spot). At the initial stage of the lesion, dark purple and black dots appear. Gradually, the dots increase in size and turn into brown or black spots on the leaves;

◉ fungal disease septoria. At first, you can find small oval spots of light gray color with a brownish border on the leaves. Gradually, the affected areas of the leaves increase in size and black spots appear in the central part, consisting of spores of the Septoria fungus. Then the mycelium spreads throughout the drying leaf and the color of the leaf blade becomes brown;

◉ fungal disease powdery mildew. At the initial stage of the disease, small spots with a grayish coating appear. The mycelium quickly expands, small spots merge, darken, and black spots with spores may appear closer to the center of the leaf blade;

◉ sooty fungus. Cherry often appears on the secretions (honeydew) of pests such as aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, and thrips. Sticky honeydew remains on the leaves, and then a black coating and small dark or black spots appear;

◉ another dangerous mycosis is black rot. At first, dark brown spots with yellowish concentric rings may appear. Gradually, the spots increase in size, darken and the entire leaf literally turns black;

◉ bacteriosis bacterial rot. Most often appears on fleshy leaves indoor plants. At the initial stage of the disease, small brown or black spots can be detected. Gradually, the leaf tissue softens and areas of the leaf blade become necrosis.

Photo: black spots on the leaves of indoor plants

♦ WHY DO YELLOW SPOTS APPEAR ON FLOWER LEAVES?

❂ improper care behind the plant (watering cold water, overflow and stagnation of water in the root system, incorrect fertilizing with fertilizers, inappropriate soil mixture). At first, shapeless yellow spots may appear on the lower leaves, yellowish dots along the veins. Due to waterlogging or stagnation of water in the roots, blurry yellowish spots appear on thin leaf blades;

❂ drafts and prolonged ventilation of the room. So-called draft spots may appear on flower leaves due to overcooling of the root rosette. Yellow spots of irregular or blurred shape are scattered throughout the leaf blade;

❂ sunburn. Sunburn can occur after watering or spraying when the droplets on the leaves act like lenses. Round or oval yellow spots with a reddish-brown rim are noticeable on the leaves;

❂ fungal disease peronosporosis (downy mildew). On the upper side of the leaf blade, grayish-colored yellow spots with a blurred outline. The mycelium quickly increases in size and the spots merge;

❂ bacteriosis bacterial spotting. First, glassy spots with a blurry rim appear. Soon these spots on the leaves turn yellow, and then increase in size, turn black and the leaf dries;

❂ pests of indoor plants suck juices from tissues. At first, you may notice small yellowish dots on the leaves. Gradually, the pests multiply, there are more and more spots and they increase in size, turning into yellow spots.

- photo: yellow spots on the leaves of indoor plants

♦ WHY DO WHITE SPOTS APPEAR ON THE LEAVES OF FLOWERS?

◎ fungal disease powdery mildew. First, a grayish coating appears, which is easily removed mechanically. Then the entire leaf is covered with shapeless white spots, which over time become dark brown or brown;

◎ fungal disease gray rot. In the initial stage, it usually appears on damaged and withered leaves in the form of shapeless brownish or brown spots. But after some time, white spots can be detected - this is a coating under which the color of the spots is rusty or brown;

◎ plant damage by thrips. The areas of the leaf blade affected by pests become covered with white spots. If you look closely, you can also find tiny black thrips excrement there.

- photo: white spots on the leaves of indoor plants

♦ SPOTS ON LEAVES IN DIFFERENT TYPES OF FLOWERS:

⊛ Anthurium. Irregularities in the watering regime lead to the appearance of yellow or rusty spots on the leaves. An improperly prepared soil mixture that decomposes and cakes can lead to the appearance of blurry yellow spots, and the leaves themselves are deformed. Anthracnose often affects Anthurium Andre (Male Happiness), which leads to the appearance of dark spots and drying out of the leaves. Frequent drafts and low temperature lead to the appearance of blackheads and small spots. Small translucent dark spots on the leaf blade they indicate possible damage to the anthurium by spider mites. And numerous yellowish spots against the background of deformed leaves may be the result of the activity of aphids sucking out the anthurium juices.

⊛ Orchid(phalaenopsis, dendrobium). If dry spots of a brownish or brown color appear on the leaves, then most likely this is an infection with the fungus Cladosporium Orchideorum. If you constantly water an orchid with cold water, you can provoke the appearance of uneven depressed yellow spots - this is the so-called death of leaf tissue cells (Mesophyll collapse). At high level Due to high air humidity, circles and yellow spots of Cercospora bacterial spot may appear on the leaves. The fungus Phyllostictina Pyriformis causes small yellow and black spots to appear on the top of the leaf - and especially along the edges. Appearance of black spots different sizes can cause chlorosis if you water the orchid with unsettled running water.

⊛ Ficus(Benjamina, rubbery elastica). The upper part of the leaf blade is covered with small yellowish and dark spots, a cobweb is visible between the shoots and leaves - this is a lesion spider mite. Sticky secretions from pests (scale insects, thrips, mealybugs) can cause sooty fungus on the leaves. Gray rot causes darkening of the leaves and the appearance of spots with a grayish coating on the surface. Ficus plants are often affected by powdery mildew, when white spots with plaque appear on the leaves.

⊛ Saintpaulia(Usambara violets). Very susceptible to direct sunlight, with prolonged exposure to which burns appear on the leaves in the form of oval spots yellow color with a brownish central part. Cold air and constant drafts provoke the appearance of gray-beige spots of the most different forms. Dark spots may appear along the edges of the lower leaves of violets if the plant has not been replanted for a long time or the flower lacks potassium. Powdery mildew causes white spots with a powdery coating to appear, and then the leaves turn brown, become deformed and fall off.

to Home Page

ALSO FIND OUT...

Plants, like all living organisms, sometimes get sick. This is also true for indoor specimens, because they are grown in an artificial climate and with limited space for roots. Errors in care and attacks by pests cannot be ruled out; room conditions.

In order to protect green pets or, if necessary, take timely effective measures, “you need to know your enemies by sight” and have information about their destruction.

Sucking insects are the most common pests of houseplants.

They settle on various, usually young, tender and juicy parts of the plant, feeding on their juices. The secretions of these pests clog the pores of the leaves, making it difficult for them to breathe and providing a favorable environment for the development of fungi.

Aphid

This is a very small (3 mm) insect that can be flying or wingless.

Aphids cling to shoots, especially the tops, located in small clusters

Sick specimens grow slowly, their leaves become deformed and fall off over time.

A plant infected with aphids is doomed.

Shchitovka

These are small (2-7 mm) round-shaped insects of green or brown color with a body covered with a peculiar thickening - a shield. They owe their name to him and appearance resembling a small plaque.

Scale insects are characterized by a sedentary lifestyle, located in clusters that look like plaque.

Large insects resemble droplets of dew or wax

Signs of scale insect damage:

• lagging behind plants in growth and development;
• the appearance of red-brown or yellow spots on the foliage;
• drying and falling of leaves and buds.

Mealybug

The white mealybug is the closest relative of scale insects. This is a small (3 mm) insect with an elongated light body.

The mealybug settles on young shoots, in the axils of leaves and on buds. This leads to a slowdown in plant growth, deformation of leaves and buds and their subsequent death.

Mealybug

Presence mealybug produce a characteristic light cotton-like discharge

The scale insect is able to reproduce quickly, spreading to the soil and roots.

It affects any plant without priority and is therefore especially dangerous.

Thrips

Small, barely visible to the naked eye, sucking insects, the larvae of which develop inside the leaf tissues within 20 days. During this time, they manage to carry out their destructive work: the leaves become deformed, darken or become discolored and die.

Adult forms of the pest have a dark-colored, elongated body, are capable of flight, and leave behind a trail of silvery sticky secretions.

Adult thrips live on the undersides of leaves

Thrips are omnivorous: they attack any plant. However, most often they come from plants with large leaves: palm trees, ficus, monstera, dracaena, laurel and even Saintpaulia.

Spider mite

A common and insidious pest of domestic plants, appearing even in winter and in early spring. Provoking factors are dry and warm air residential premises.

Reproducing quickly, mites quickly “capture” the entire plant and “spread” to nearby ones.

A thin cobweb, clearly visible in the light of light, is another sure sign of the presence of a pest.

Signs of damage:

• leaves and petals become dull, lethargic, gradually dry out and die;
• in some forms, yellow spots appear on the leaves, followed by yellowing of the entire leaf blade. On others, the edges of the sheet dry out and become deformed.

Whitefly

A small sucking insect that looks like a moth. Adults sit passively in small “flocks” on the lower surface of the leaf.

Plants with thin and tender leaves become victims of whiteflies.

The presence of whiteflies can be easily identified by the white clutches on the inside of the leaf and the characteristic whitish coating.

Control measures

Mechanical

Inspect the plants periodically and immediately remove any detected pests and their larvae. Aphids, scale insects and thrips are washed off using a cotton pad or soft cloth soaked in a solution of green soap or a soap solution made from 20 g laundry soap, dissolved in a liter of water.

Biological

For minor lesions, it is appropriate to treat plants with infusions and decoctions of herbs (for example, wormwood and tobacco, citrus fruits).

Chemical

Appropriate if mechanical and biological measures have not brought the desired result. They involve the use of various insecticides.

Common diseases of indoor plants

The causes of diseases of plants grown indoors are damage by viruses, bacteria or fungi, the carriers of which can be the same pests.

Viral diseases

Diseased plants are limp, poorly developed and slow-growing, with deformed leaves.

Plants affected by the virus look unkempt

If the disease is diagnosed early, the plant can be saved by cutting off the affected areas and providing impeccable care.

Treatment of viral plant diseases is difficult - there are no appropriate drugs.

Bacterial diseases

Wet rot

Wet rot

Appears as spots with oily or blurry outlines and an unpleasant odor

Plants with succulent, fleshy shoots and leaves are susceptible to the disease. Risk factors are high humidity and excess nitrogen in the soil.

Withering

Wilting plant

The disease begins with wilting of shoots, which spreads to all parts of the plant.

Unlike fungal diseases, when wilting, there are no brown rings on the cut of the diseased shoot.

spotting

Accompanied by the formation of spots on the leaves

The spots do not have clear boundaries and represent a “dead” zone. The disease is spreading rapidly in warm conditions, leading to the death of the plant.

Bacterial cancer

Accompanied by the formation of growths on roots and shoots

In the early stages of development bacterial diseases plants can be helped by removing damaged areas and treating them with Bordeaux mixture or another preparation containing copper.

Fungal diseases

Spot (anthracnose)

Spot (anthracnose)

It is manifested by the appearance of dark-colored “wetting” spots first on the lower and then on the upper leaves, followed by drying out of the edges

Dieffenbachia, dracaena and citrus fruits are susceptible to the disease, and it is provoked by keeping plants in warm and humid air.

Treatment consists of removing affected leaves, treating with fungicides, stopping spraying and reducing watering.

Blackleg

Plant disease: Blackleg

Manifested by damage to the base of the shoot: it gradually turns black

The causes of the disease are waterlogging of the soil combined with its compaction. Treatment methods are drastic: the diseased cutting must be removed.

Gray mold (botrytis)

Gray mold (botrytis)

Visually looks like fluffy mold in gray shades

The appearance of the disease provokes high humidity air and coolness of the premises, as well as prolonged stagnation of air.

Treatment consists of removing and destroying the affected parts, contaminated soil and treating the plant with fungicides.

To prevent relapse, it is worth regularly ventilating the room, reducing spraying to a minimum and reducing watering.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew

Accompanied by the appearance on all parts of the plant of a gray coating resembling flour

These are fungal spores. The disease spreads quickly. Weakened plants are susceptible to it.

• isolation of sick specimens;
• at the beginning of the disease - removal of damaged parts;
• fungicide treatment.

Preventive measures consist of creating conditions favorable for the plant and following all recommendations for its cultivation.

Rust

Plant rust

Symptoms of the disease are brown circles appearing on the underside of the leaf

Damaged parts are removed. The plant is treated with Mancozeb.

Prevention consists of regular ventilation of the room. Plants that have suffered from rust are not recommended for propagation purposes.

It's always sad when your indoor flower gets sick. To prevent this from happening, follow one rule - look at it as often as possible, not only admiring it, but also from the point of view of the presence of “uninvited” guests. The sooner you detect them, the easier it is to deal with them.

Types of houseplant diseases

What do indoor plants suffer from and how to deal with diseases of house flowers:

Powdery mildew. This type of disease is characterized by the formation of a white, ashy or grayish coating on the surface of the affected organs. As a result of the disease, the edges of the leaves bend inward, tissues are destroyed, the leaf loses its green color and gradually dies.

Rotten. A plant disease that manifests itself in the formation of rot on both underground and above-ground parts of plants. The causative agents of this disease can be different kinds microorganisms that give a similar picture of the disease.

Pay attention to the photo - this disease of indoor plants manifests itself in the form of browning, softening and rotting of the plant:

White rot At first it appears in the form of watery, softened spots, which become covered over time with a whitish coating with a mass of black, lumpy formations - sclerotia.

Dry rot appears as flat spots with browning tissue.

Penicillium rot is a disease of indoor plants that is caused by mold fungi of the penicillium genus. Initially, watery spots appear, which then become reddish-brown and covered with a grayish-green coating.

In addition to rots caused by fungi, there are also bacterial rots.

Bacterial diseases. Some bacteria cause plant wilting, tumors and neoplasms that arise as a result of increased cell division.

Viral diseases. Viruses, penetrating into plant cells and multiplying in them, cause metabolic disorders. Viral diseases plants externally appear in the form of a mosaic, leaf necrosis.

Photos of diseases of indoor plants caused by viruses, bacteria and viruses are presented below:

How to treat houseplants for diseases: effective drugs

It is known that preventing disease or pest infestation is much easier than fighting them. Moreover, at home, the treatment of diseases of indoor plants is complicated by the very limited possibilities of using chemical protection products. Therefore, if during the summer period plants were taken out into the garden or onto the balcony, loggia, open veranda, 7-10 days before returning them to the room, carry out preventive spraying against a complex of pests.

For this purpose you can use the following effective drugs, like: “Fufanon”, “Aktellik”, “Aktaru”.

Remember that in a room where there are potted plants, you cannot keep bouquets of cut flowers in a vase. They quickly fade, and pests move from them to indoor plants.

New potted plants purchased should be kept in quarantine for 3 weeks, separate from your house plants. And only after that, if they are free of pests and signs of disease, they can take their place among your flowers.

To prevent diseases, once every two weeks you should water the plants with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. Fitosporin-M or Glyokladin and other biological preparations will protect indoor plants from fungal and bacterial diseases. According to the instructions, they can be used both for watering plants and for spraying (10 g per 5 liters of water).

Strengthen plant health and increase their resistance to diseases and pests regular feeding fertilizers, as well as the use of biological preparations.

How else to deal with diseases of indoor plants?

Below we describe how else to combat diseases of indoor plants using biological preparations:

"Healthy Earth"(aqueous suspension concentrate, 198 g/l thiram + 198 g/l carboxin). Ideal prevention of root rot development. The drug is used to disinfect soil from soil infections. This is a contact-systemic fungicide for the control of plant diseases transmitted through planting material and soil. Protects against diseases for a long time. Suppresses soil infections in the root zone.

"Fitolavin"(water-soluble concentrate, 32 g/l phytobacteriomycin - a complex of streptothricin antibiotics) - a drug with bactericidal and fungicidal action. Only “Fitolavin” can help with the widespread spread of bacterial diseases vegetable crops in protected ground. Thanks to its systemic action, it easily penetrates the plant, moves around it and treats it from the inside.

"Fitosporin-M"- an excellent remedy for combating diseases of indoor plants, natural bioprotection against fungal and bacterial diseases. This is a universal preparation for home, garden and garden plants from late blight, dry and wet rot, scab, wilt, black leg, rhizoctinia, alternaria, macrosporiosis, etc.

The effectiveness of Fitosporin-M is enhanced by the presence in its composition of the natural growth-protective drug Gumi.

"Alirin-B"(live cells of Bacillus subtilis M-22 VIZR, titer 1SG9 CFU/g) - a preparation based on beneficial microorganisms isolated from natural sources (1-3 tablets per 1 liter of water). Before treating indoor plants for diseases with this drug, carefully read the instructions for use.

"Glyokladin"(fungal culture Trichoderma harzianum VIZR-18, in addition, there is a complex of metabolites (beneficial soil microflora) - an analogue of the well-known drug "Trichodermin". Effective in the fight against wide range fungal diseases. Follow the instructions for use.

Now you know about diseases of indoor plants and the fight against them, which means it’s time to start preventive measures.

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Colletorichum, Gloeosporum.

It affects leaves, stems, petioles and fruits of plants. First, yellowish-brown spots appear on the leaves and stems with dark sporulation pads. The photo shows fungal spores. If you look closely, you will notice that on the spots on the upper side of the leaf the surface is not smooth, but covered with fluffy hairs of spores, however, the spores are noticeable even when the plant is severely damaged. The spots look different on different plants. On clivia they can be reddish, on ivy they can be brown or gray-yellow, sometimes they are purple spots, and on some plants they can be very small yellowish-green spots, which then turn brown. As the disease develops, the spots increase in size, merge, and the leaf turns brown and dries out.

Anthracnose develops rapidly in greenhouse conditions, that is, at high air humidity (about 90%) and elevated temperature, as well as with frequent (several times a day) spraying of plants. The fungus is frost-resistant - it is preserved in plant debris, in seeds and spreads with water when watering.

Prevention and treatment: Removing leaves with suspicious spots, disinfecting the soil, treating seeds. If there are signs of disease, it is necessary to reduce air humidity. Spray using chemicals. Among them are a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water), a solution of copper oxychloride, copper sulfate(500 g per 10 l of water), colloidal sulfur (50–100 g per 10 l of water), strobi (in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water), Abiga-Peak (40–50 g per 10 l of water ).

Ascochyta blight

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Ascochyta.

At the initial stage, small (only 1–2 mm) reddish or brown spots appear on the leaves and stems. The spots increase in size and acquire a dark brown necrotic hue with a yellowish chlorotic border along the edge. Small black spores of the fungus can only be seen under a magnifying glass. If the growth of a fungus on a stem rings it, the stem easily breaks. Sometimes the disease begins with signs of overdrying of the plant - the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, and a dark brown stripe forms at the border with healthy tissue. The pathogen is very resistant to deep temperature changes, that is, it tolerates both severe drought and soil freezing. Preserved on plant debris and seeds. The disease spreads with wind, undisinfected soil, and drops of water.

Prevention and treatment: as with anthracnose.

Phyllosticosis

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Phyllosticta.

Small black or dark purple dots first appear on affected plants. They enlarge and turn into brown spots with a purple, almost black, border around the edge. The middle of the spot becomes thinner, dries out and often falls out, holes form. When examined through a magnifying glass, black round spores can be seen on the brown areas of the spot. The disease spreads with wind, undisinfected soil, and drops of water.

Prevention and treatment: as with anthracnose.

Septoria

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Septoria.

First, small whitish or gray spots with a brown rim around the edge, round or oval, appear. As the disease progresses, the spots increase in size, and in the center of some of them small dark brown or black fungal spores appear, which can be seen with the naked eye. Sometimes the resulting spots resemble rashes all over the leaf. Over time, the spots merge, turn brown and the leaf dries out. Ideal conditions for the development of the disease - high humidity and temperature within 28–31°C.

Prevention and treatment: Removing leaves with suspicious spots, disinfecting the soil, treating seeds. At the first signs of the disease, it is necessary to reduce the air humidity. Spray using chemicals. Among them are a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 l of water), a solution of copper oxychloride, copper sulfate (500 g per 10 l of water), colloidal sulfur (50–100 g per 10 l of water ), strobi (in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water), Abiga-Pik (40–50 g per 10 l of water).

Powdery mildew

The causative agent is a large group of powdery mildew fungi of the order Erysiphales. Among them, the most common are fungi of the genus Oidium, Sphaerotheca, etc.

Signs of the disease are small spots on the upper side of the leaf, as if sprinkled with starch or flour. The plaque is easily erased. Gradually, the spots increase in size, cover the entire leaf, and then the entire plant. Over time, the mycelium darkens and white coating turns into gray, and then brown, the leaves become deformed, dry out and fly off. Powdery plaque can form on both the outside and inside of the leaves. The development of the disease is promoted by high air humidity (60–80%), relatively high temperatures (about 20°C), sharp fluctuations temperatures (at night and during the day), as well as increased nitrogen content in the soil or fertilizing with nitrogenous fertilizers.

Prevention and treatment: Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizers in the soil, especially for flowering plants. It is necessary to avoid crowding of plants and stagnant humid air. At the initial stage, when single spots appear, cut off the affected leaves and shoots. Treat the plant with a solution of soda ash (50 g of soda, 40 g of laundry soap per 10 liters of water). In case of severe damage, spraying with 0.5% copper oxychloride, 1% colloidal sulfur, thiovit, and a mixture of antibiotics (100 units/ml terramycin, 100 units/ml penicillin, 250 units/ml streptomycin, in a ratio of 1:1:1) is used. . You can use drugs such as Topaz, Vectra, Skor, Bayleton, etc.

Downy mildew

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Peronospora.

Yellow or brown spots of irregular shape form on the upper side of the leaves. On the underside of the leaves there is a light coating from the conidial sporulation of the pathogen that emerged on the surface of the leaf through the stomata. Diseased leaves turn yellow and die prematurely. With a severe degree of damage, the pathogen can penetrate the vascular system, which is noticeable on the cut in the form of darkened vessels (mycelium and spores). The disease predominates in severe acidic soils. The spread is aggravated by high humidity and poor ventilation. The source of infection is undisinfected soil and seeds.

Prevention and treatment: Hydrothermal treatment of seeds (immersing them in hot water at 50°C for 20 minutes, followed by rapid cooling in cold water for 2–3 minutes). Carefully remove diseased leaves and severely affected plants. You can use Oxychom, Kuproksat, 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. Start treatment at the first signs of the disease and repeat every 7–10 days, especially carefully treating the underside of the leaves. At least 5 treatments are required.

Rust

The causative agent is rust fungi, for example of the genus Phragmidium or Puccinia.

It is expressed in the appearance of orange-brown tubercles, orange, yellow or red spots on the upper surface of the leaf. WITH reverse side pustules, oval or round in shape, are clearly visible on the leaf. Gradually, the spots develop into stripes, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. The disease is provoked by uneven watering and high air humidity.

Treatment: Remove affected leaves and branches. Apply spraying with the following preparations: Topaz, Vectra, Strobi, Bordeaux mixture, cuproxate. The treatment is repeated 2-3 times with a break of 10 days.

Gray rot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Botrytis.

Most often, the affected areas appear on the stems in the form of a fluffy grayish-olive coating. With further development, the disease spreads to leaves, flower ovaries and fruits.

Over time, the lesion takes on the appearance of dry rot with concentric spots. After a few days, the spot grows and rings the stem. During the first week, there is no sporulation of the fungus on the spot; it turns pale in the center to a straw color, and blurred ring-shaped stripes become visible. Tissue necrosis develops inside the stem, while the vessels die and the movement of water stops. The shoot above this zone withers.

Prevention and treatment: Preventive measures include soil disinfection. Regular ventilation of premises, removal of dying leaves and thinning of seedlings, good lighting. Avoid overmoistening the soil, especially when kept cool. Adding Trichodermin, Barrier or Zaslon to the soil before planting.

At the first signs of disease, diseased leaves and inflorescences are removed. The affected area is sprinkled with charcoal powder, chalk, ash or potassium permanganate. You can make a paste from the trichodermin preparation (moisten a small amount of powder with water) and coat the affected areas. Spraying with a solution of topsin-M (0.1%), foundationazole (0.2%), copper-soap solution (0.2% copper sulfate and 2% laundry soap), 0.05% Bayleton solution. Repeated treatments are carried out after 10–12 days.

Black rot, or Alternaria

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Alternaria.

The fungus mainly affects leaves, sometimes stems and tubers. First, dry brown spots appear, first on the lower and then on the upper leaves. Typically, concentric circles are visible on the spots. As the spot enlarges, it gradually turns black, and gray condidia become visible on it.

Frequent temperature changes and changes in humidity, that is, alternation of dry and wet periods, contribute to the spread of the disease. But optimal conditions for the development of the fungus at temperatures above 18 ° C and humidity of about 90%.

Treatment: The drugs used to combat Alternaria are cuproxate, copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, cupricol, copper oxychloride, Abiga-Pik, Maxim.

Wilt, or Verticillium wilt

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Verticillium.

On initial stages diseases, the lower leaves acquire a grayish-greenish color due to the development of interveinal necrosis. The leaf tissue between the veins turns brown and dries out. Then wilting begins, most of the leaves, starting from the bottom, turn yellow, curl and dry out. On a section of the stem, browning of the vessels is noticeable. The lumens of the vessels are filled with thin multicellular mycelium. Plants are stunted, develop poorly, and then die. Sometimes the disease manifests itself on the plant in the drying out and death of individual branches of the bush. If conditions are favorable, the disease spreads to other branches and the entire plant dies quite quickly. If they don't add up favorable conditions for the development of the fungus, the disease can drag on for months and part of the plant looks healthy, but part dies.

The pathogen persists in the soil in the form of microslerotia for several years. Optimal temperature for germination of sclerotia - 24–26°, humidity 60–70%. The fungus is most likely to develop on soil with a neutral pH value of 7–7.5. Fungal spores germinate and penetrate the conductive tissue, where mycelium develops, causing blockage of blood vessels. Since there is a gradual clogging of the vessels from bottom to top, the withering of the leaves begins with the lower leaves and gradually covers the entire plant.

Treatment: Disinfection of soil by steaming, disinfection of seeds by heating, adding trichodermin or agate to the soil. Chemicals due to the unique biology of the pathogen (development in the soil and spread through conducting vessels) are not effective. Treatment is possible only in the initial stages, by spraying with foundationazole, Vectra or Topsin-M at a concentration of 0.2%.

Fusarium (tracheomycosis) wilt

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Fusarium.

Fusarium develops only on weakened plants, primarily in dying areas. The course of the disease can follow the type of tracheomycosis wilt or with rotting of the roots.

In affected plants, the tips of the shoots wither (loss of turgor), and then the entire shoot. This happens, as in the case of wilt infection, due to blockage of blood vessels by toxins secreted by fungi. Therefore, darkening of the vessels is also noticeable on the cross section. If you cut off the top in time, you can root it and get healthy plant. But this will only succeed if the fungus has not reached the top of the shoot through the vessels. The speed of the disease depends on how favorable the conditions are for the development of the fungus. With high soil and air humidity, as well as temperatures above 18°C, the disease can destroy the entire plant in a few days. If the humidity is low, the disease can become chronic, in which case the plant slowly withers over 3–4 weeks.

Root rotting also most often has a specific pattern: strong, thick roots remain normal, but small ones rot. The source of infection may be undisinfected soil, water from natural sources, or unsterile instruments.

Prevention and treatment: Removal and destruction of the plant along with a lump of earth. Disinfection of pots with a 5% solution of copper sulfate, bleach. If wilting has just begun, you can try treating the plant with Vectra or Benomyl. You can save the plant by cutting it apical stalk and re-rooting it. The soil can be prepared by pouring it thoroughly with a weak potassium permanganate solution Pink colour, phytosporin-M, Maxim or adding trichodermin. When working, sterilize tools - a knife, scissors and even garter material (wire, thread) with alcohol. When using water from natural reservoirs or rainwater, use Fitosporin-M.

By the way, fusarium on indoor plants manifests itself in the same way as on garden crops(see tomato bush in the photo).

Bacterial or Wet Rot

The causative agent is bacteria of the genera Pectobacterium, Erwinia.

The disease manifests itself in the softening and disintegration of individual areas on the leaves, petioles, roots and fruits of the plant. Bacteria secrete the enzyme pectinase into the leaf tissue, which causes tissue breakdown. Most often, the succulent and fleshy parts of plants are affected.

A small shapeless spot, gray, brown or black, first appears on the leaves, which gradually grows. Rotting begins on the bulbs and tubers, often accompanied by an unpleasant odor.

Under favorable conditions - in a warm and humid climate - the disease spreads very quickly. The affected part or the entire plant turns into a soggy mass.

The pathogen penetrates through mechanical lesions on the plant - even microscopic cracks and wounds. Preserved in soil with plant residues.

Prevention and treatment: Disinfection of the soil before planting is required, and when cutting roots, tubers and bulbs, the cuts must be sprinkled with crushed charcoal. The instrument must be disinfected with alcohol after each circumcision.

The development of the disease is provoked by the application of excessive doses of fertilizers, stagnation of water in the soil, dense, compacted soil, cooling of wet soil in pots, for example in a cool room in winter.

The plant can be saved if bacteriosis has not yet affected the entire vascular system or is local in nature (for example, rot began from the tip of the leaf). If the roots have rotted, you can try to root the top (if this plant rooted by cuttings). If decay has affected only part of the roots, but aboveground part looks alive, you can try to save the plant - to do this you need to free the roots from the ground, cut off all the rotten ones, replant them in dry prepared soil, water and spray with Bordeaux mixture (or copper-containing preparations). The infection will not spread to another plant standing nearby, but all working tools and pots must be thoroughly disinfected.

Bacterial spotting, fire blight, vascular bacteriosis

The causative agent is bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas, Pseudomonas.

The disease most often affects young leaves and shoots. Bacterial spots have different symptoms depending on the type. The most typical picture is when small watery spots first form on the surface of a leaf or stem, which gradually turn black.

Most often, the spots have an irregularly angular shape and are limited by a yellow or light green border. The bacterium spreads most often along the veins. The spots grow, merge, and the entire leaf turns black. Ultimately the plant dies.

Optimal conditions for the development of bacteria are a temperature of 25–30°C and high air humidity. The death of bacteria occurs only at temperatures above 56°C. Bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas are resistant to desiccation and can tolerate low temperatures for a long time.

A variant of bacterial spotting is the so-called fire blight, which is caused by bacteria of the genus Pseudomonas. In this case, not spots appear on the plant, but rather large shapeless areas of blackening, which then dry out. It looks as if a section of the leaf is burnt. If the disease is accompanied by favorable conditions, it develops very quickly, causing death individual parts and death of the entire plant. Bacterial burns often begin with young leaves, shoots and flowers.

Bacteria penetrate plants through stomata or wounds and begin to multiply in the intercellular spaces of the leaf parenchyma. The incubation period for the development of the disease is 3–6 days, depending on the temperature. The bacteria survive in the soil and on seeds.

Prevention and treatment: On horticultural crops They use plant treatment and seed treatment with the antibiotic Fitolavin-300. At home, indoor plants are successfully treated with spraying and watering the soil with a solution of trichopolum - 1 tablet per 2 liters of water. Copper-containing preparations such as Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, and the systemic fungicide Maxim are also effective.

conclusions

For most gardeners, the main thing is to accurately determine the disease. However, in most cases this is problematic. To determine the cause of the disease, it is important to collect as many symptoms as possible of the observed damage, changes in growth and development. First of all, it is necessary to determine the conditions in which the plant was located.

For example, most fungal and bacterial origin develop in conditions of high humidity and high temperatures. However, this does not mean that if the plant has not been sprayed and kept cool, it cannot have diseases. They may exist, but they will spread much more slowly than in greenhouse conditions. In other words, the disease can take place in a chronic, protracted form, or it can cause the death of the plant in just a few days.

Illnesses are often confused with manifestations of care disorders. If a flower suffers from dry soil or dry air, this manifests itself primarily by drying out of the tips of the leaves, paleness and loss of turgor, but it may also be accompanied by the appearance of a mite, which causes curling and deformation of the leaves, as well as the formation of characteristic puncture spots. Plants that do not receive enough moisture from the air and soil rarely suffer from diseases (bacterial and fungal), but due to their weakness they are at risk. But plants suffering from overwatering, located in conditions of high humidity (in a warm or cool room), sprayed several times a day, planted in undisinfected soil, and also exposed to the open air, growing in a large group or in poorly ventilated areas - the first will be infected with both fungal and bacterial diseases.

There are diseases that are very easily identified by characteristic symptoms - these are, for example, powdery mildew, gray rot. Other diseases can be identified by the presence of spores, sometimes large and easily visible to the naked eye, and sometimes, especially in the initial stage, visible only through a magnifying glass. Bacteria, in general, can only be seen with high magnification microscope Most often, it is very difficult to determine the pathogen based on the nature of the spots. Thus, bacterioses cause various types of spots, necrosis and wilting (damage to the vascular system of the plant), but they can be distinguished from Verticillium or Fusarium wilt only by cutting the stem at the site of the lesion.

Often weakened by a lack of light or other violations of the conditions of detention (especially after being kept in dubious shops), plants suffer from not one, but several ailments at once. For example, they are affected by mites and bacterial spot. At the same time, when they begin to intensify the fight against mites by spraying, not only bacteriosis begins to develop intensively on the plant, but also gray rot (a fungal disease). Ultimately, the plant dies because it is unable to deal with several adversities at once, especially if it has not yet acclimatized to new conditions. Therefore, you should not go to extremes and suddenly change the conditions of maintenance, and then, if there is high humidity around the plant, just remember that it can be threatened by everything possible diseases. After all, they are carried by the wind, splashes of water, and are easily carried with tools, hands and on the paws of insects, as well as with water from natural sources. A microscopic crack in the skin of the plant is enough for bacteria to enter.

As for treatment, very often it is enough to remove leaves damaged by spots, improve living conditions, and the disease goes away. If this does not happen or the disease is too advanced, then you have to resort to the use of fungicides.

So, when should you worry and accept the possibility of spots, necrosis and wilting due to diseases of fungal and bacterial origin:

• if the plant is planted in undisinfected soil;
• if the plant was purchased in a store;
• if the plant was (is) in conditions of high humidity;
• if the plant stands (stood) in a crowded group, as well as in an unventilated room;
• if you examined the entire plant with a magnifying glass and did not find a visible pest (if you don’t have a magnifying glass, you don’t even have to try to identify the damage);
• if the plant is watered with water from natural sources (rain, pond, river), and also stands in the open air.
• if the plant receives abundant watering or has been flooded.
• if the plant was not transplanted into high-quality soil in time (if there is a malnutrition, similar symptoms may be observed - spotting, chlorosis, stunting);
• Lack of light aggravates the development of all diseases!

It becomes very annoying for flower growers when their favorite plants suddenly start to get sick. Therefore, it is useful to learn about what diseases of indoor plants are and how they should be treated correctly.

This topic is becoming especially relevant today because modern market offers a huge number of drugs and remedies that help prevent and eliminate flower ailments.

Bacterial and viral diseases

These diseases are often accompanied by delayed development ornamental crops. It is very difficult to diagnose them in the early stages.

Viruses are often carried by thrips and aphids. Treatment in this case should be comprehensive.

The most common diseases of indoor flowers:

1. Rot. Flowers with fleshy leaves and stems often suffer from it. An overdose of nitrogenous fertilizers or waterlogging can provoke the development of rot.
2. Withering. In this case, the stems begin to wither first, after which all other parts are affected.
3. spotting. Dead areas appear on the leaves of this disease. The spots have clear outlines that make it possible to distinguish them from fungal lesions. To treat the disease, indoor flowers need to be treated with special preparations.
4. Bacterial cancer. Symptoms of the disease include the appearance of small growths on the shoots and rhizomes of plants. If these tumors are left unattended, they can cause their death.

Chemicals for the treatment of house flower diseases are not sufficiently effective. In such situations, it is important to follow preventive measures and control soil moisture.

If rotting of the rhizome is detected, then you need to reduce watering, and if the entire flower is sick, then it will have to be removed along with the pot and soil.

Prevention measures

1. You need to buy flowers exclusively from trusted sources (nurseries or specialized stores). In this case, if pests appear, you can turn to the seller for help, who will most likely fix the problem completely free of charge.
2. It is advisable to choose crop varieties that have good disease resistance.
3. Seed material for planting must be disinfected and sorted.
4. It is necessary to adhere to care conditions depending on the type of plant.
5. Flowers and leaves should be inspected as often as possible for damage and disease.

If a disease is detected, the flower must be urgently isolated from the rest and begin to fight the problem.