In the first warm days of spring on some personal plots you can see tender and beautiful flowers, whose name is anemones or anemones. Among gardeners, this crop has become famous for its capriciousness, so not everyone takes the risk of growing it. But if you pay due attention to the flower, plant it according to all the rules, and then care for it conscientiously, your efforts will be rewarded with an abundance of bright buds. In this article we will give you the main varieties of anemones with photos, and tell you about planting and caring for them.

There are many varieties of this crop, but the following types are considered the most popular among gardeners: Crown anemone – perennial with a developed root system. Its tuberous root reaches 5 cm in diameter, and the stem grows up to 45-50 cm in height. Beautiful bright flowers are presented in white, blue, lavender, pink shades. Large, about 8 cm in diameter, buds are located singly. Wood anemone is a perennial crop that grows up to 0.5 m in height. The plant has a powerful vertical root and fairly large buds, most often painted white, milky, or light lilac. Japanese, autumn, and hybrid anemones are plant varieties that reach a height of 90 cm. Large flowers have a diameter of about 8 cm, are most often painted in red or deep pink shades, and have double petals. These subspecies are released simultaneously a large number of buds forming lush inflorescences. The oak anemone is somewhat smaller than its “relatives”. Its stem grows only up to 30 cm, the buds of the plant reach 2-4 cm in diameter and are white. Anemone blanda, which is also called tender anemone, is a low-growing perennial plant with a stem height of about 10 cm. The flowers of the crop are painted in a delicate blue hue. This variety of anemone is very early, the buds bloom in April, and by the beginning of summer the stems and leaves of the crop die off. Anemone propagation methods Propagation of flowers using seeds Propagating a plant by seeds is not the most popular procedure, since this method has many difficulties. The seeds must be freshly harvested, but even if you use the best seed, it is unlikely that more than ¼ of all the seeds sown will germinate. Suitable for growing from seeds: multi-dissected anemone, buttercup anemone, Apennine anemone, forest anemone, oak anemone, tender anemone and crown anemone. Let's look at the basic rules that should be followed to obtain good germination: In order for the sown grains to germinate as best as possible, they should be stratified. During this procedure, conditions are created similar to those in which the seeds are in the autumn and winter periods. Under the influence of humidity, air and relatively low temperatures above zero, the seed shells become softer, the grains swell and begin to release the substances necessary for their development to the sprouts. Stratification is used only if the plants are planned to be sown in the spring. The anemone is not sown too deeply to give fragile sprouts a better chance of breaking through the soil layer. The soil for seeds should be light and loose and have a porous structure. If you sow the crop in the fall, the first shoots should be expected in early spring. If you plant the seeds in the ground in the spring, the seedlings should appear within the next 30 days. Anemone seedlings should not be moistened too much, otherwise the sprouts will die. Vegetative cultivation of anemones More in a simple way breeding of this crop is considered vegetative propagation. The material can be roots or tubers of plants. It is best to separate the roots in early spring; during this period the flower will undergo the procedure painlessly. You can cut off part of the root only if there are several buds on it that are responsible for the restoration of the plant. It is better to decide in advance on the flowerbed in which the anemones will grow. This whimsical plant does not really like transplanting, especially if the flowers have been growing in one place for quite a long time. Some subspecies of the crop have a tuberous root system. There are several nuances in propagating anemones by tubers, so we will consider this procedure in more detail: Flower tubers must be prepared in advance, allowing them to soak in moisture. At the same time, you cannot completely immerse the rhizomes in water, otherwise they will simply rot. To avoid such trouble, fill a small saucer with warm water and stir a drop of epin or zircon in it. For better root germination, you can use biostimulants. Place a piece of gauze or thin cloth into the resulting solution, moisten the material and squeeze it out a little. Wrap the tubers in a cloth and leave for 5-6 hours. Combine sand and soil in a suitable shallow container. The composition of the soil should be sufficiently porous and loose. Lightly water the soil and place the flower tubers on it after removing the fabric from them. Cover the container with glass or plastic wrap and leave in a cool place. Constantly monitor the level of soil moisture; it should not dry out. After 10-12 days, the tubers will produce roots, and growth points will also become noticeable on them. Based on the roots that have appeared, you will know exactly how to plant anemones in the ground. Tubers with small sprouts can be placed in separate containers for germination. If the growth points have not yet appeared, moisten the soil and keep the container with the tubers in a cool place until they all sprout. If the tubers have not rotted, then roots should appear on each of them sooner or later. When replanting rhizomes separately, place their sprouts upward and deepen them to about 2 times the height of the tuber itself. Planting anemones Choosing a place for a flower bed Planting and caring for anemone flowers begins with the selection right place where they will grow. It is worth noting that different varieties flowers feel comfortable in different conditions, but there are still some universal recommendations. Most anemones do well if they are provided with partial shade, fairly loose, light soil, and good drainage. Let's consider what lighting should be like for different varieties of crops: Those varieties of anemones that are accustomed to growing in the wild in deciduous forests love well-shaded areas. Similar varieties include: Altai, flexible, Amur, buttercup, smooth, shadow, oak anemones. Such flowers will feel great if you plant them on the north side of the site or place a flower bed under spreading trees. The following varieties feel comfortable in moderately shaded areas: forked anemone, forest anemone and Canadian anemone. Under natural conditions, these crops are found in light forests, as well as in forest clearings. A flower bed with such varieties can be located on the eastern side of the site. Anemones that love the sun include: Apennine, crown, Caucasian, and tender anemone. These flowers will take root well in open areas, on the south side of buildings. The listed species are considered drought-resistant, which means that they need to be watered sparingly, avoiding stagnation of water in the soil. Soil for growing crops Almost all varieties of anemones love light, porous, moisture-permeable soil. Before growing anemones, you should take care of the correct soil composition. To achieve the most favorable structure, the earth can be mixed with sand, small pebbles, and brick fragments. In such soil there will be excellent air circulation, which will not allow the roots to suffer from stagnant water. Caucasian, Apennine and crown anemones feel most comfortable in alkaline soils, and all other varieties take root well in neutral and slightly acidic soils. The least whimsical in this regard is the forest anemone - poor sandy soil is quite suitable for it. Varieties with tuberous roots should be planted in soil with an acidity of no more than 7-8 units. More acidic soil is saturated with lime using wood ash. The soil is mixed with ash both before planting tubers and during flower growth. In the latter case, the beds are sprinkled with ash and the soil is loosened. Anemone transplant Anemones propagated by roots are best replanted in early spring. These varieties include hybrid, Canadian, forest and forked anemones. As soon as sprouts break through the ground, a fragment of the root on which the sprout is located and there are adventitious buds is dug up, cut off and transferred to another place. The composition and fertility of the soil in a new flowerbed should be taken care of in advance. Some gardeners perform a similar procedure in the fall, but then the risk that the plant will die is somewhat higher. As mentioned earlier, anemones do not like transplanting too much; some plants die after being transferred to a new place. The worst case for replanting is the hybrid anemone. Early varieties that finish flowering in May can be transferred to a new location only in the summer. As a rule, ephemeral anemones die off leaves and stems already in mid-summer. At the same time, the roots of the plants already have renewal buds, so such root fragments can be safely transplanted to another flowerbed. The roots should be buried 2-5 cm; the plants do not need watering. Caring for anemones If you provide anemones correct landing and care, the plant develops quite quickly, producing more and more new stems. In just a few years you will get a fairly dense and beautiful rug of green stems and bright buds. Sometimes growing flowers can crowd out other crops on the site. To prevent this from happening, you should remove excess rhizomes and, if necessary, replant the plants in time. Proper care of anemones involves watering them regularly, and it is important to avoid stagnation of moisture in the soil. Anemones, although considered moisture-loving plants, also need good drainage of the soil in which they grow. Sufficiently mature plants, unlike young ones, do not tolerate transplantation well, so it is not worth moving them to a new place unless absolutely necessary. This rule does not apply to tuberous varieties. Anemones with tuberous roots are dug up during the dormant period, then the tubers are carefully examined and stored in a cool place until autumn. In autumn, the tubers are replanted in the ground. Complex mineral fertilizers are suitable for feeding anemones. They are introduced into the soil directly during the flowering period of the crop. Anemones are considered quite resistant to diseases and pests, but they are still susceptible to some damage. Anemones can suffer from leaf nematode. It can be recognized when dirty yellow spots appear on the leaves, which subsequently darken. Severely affected flowers may die. If this happens, destroy the diseased plants, replace the soil in which they grew, and plant other crops in their place. If snails or slugs appear on your anemones, you can fight them with a metaldehyde solution. It is better to collect pests by hand and treat the plants with the said substance. When digging up tubers, they should be carefully checked for rot, and only then sent for storage. Anemone, video

After a decade of catalog dominance by original variegated and colorful tulip varieties, trends began to change. At exhibitions, the best designers in the world offer to remember the classics and pay tribute to charming white tulips. Sparkling under the warm rays of the spring sun, they look especially festive in the garden. Welcoming spring after a long wait, tulips seem to remind us that white is not only the color of snow, but also the joyful celebration of flowering.

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Many flower growers plant a flower such as anemone on their plots. This member of the buttercup family, which the Greeks called “daughter of the winds,” is a perennial that looks like a poppy. Most often, gardeners grow low-growing varieties, growing up to 30 cm, but there are also taller representatives (up to a meter), but, unfortunately, such specimens are almost impossible to find in mid-latitudes. In total, there are more than 150 species of anemones that bloom in different time, so you can use them to create a flower bed that will please the eye with its blooms for quite a long time.

Many gardeners say that there are anemone flowers, planting and caring for which are quite difficult, although there are also unpretentious specimens. The difference in care is explained by the different structure of the root system: some have tubers, others have rhizomes. The most unpretentious ones to care for are those with rhizomes. It is with these that it is better to begin your acquaintance with the “daughter of the winds.”

When improper care For anemones that have tubers, you may not expect a flower harvest.

Planting secrets

You need to remember that if you decide to grow a flower such as an anemone, growing and caring for it involves following a number of rules:

1. Anemone is demanding when it comes to watering, especially in dry and hot weather.
2. The flower needs feeding: in the fall, using complex mineral fertilizers, and during the flowering period and before planting, organic matter is added to the soil.
3. Anemones are not frost-resistant flowers, so they need to be covered with dry foliage for the winter.
4. The best time to breed anemones is spring. For this you can use either root suckers or seedlings grown from seeds.

Depending on the type of anemone, cultivation varies. Those varieties that are considered spring varieties are ephemeroids. This means that they have a short flowering cycle: they “awaken” in April, in May they delight with flowering, and July is the beginning of the dormant period, although if you provide flowers optimal conditions growth, you can save the leaves until autumn. Spring varieties can be planted after flowering, as they grow very much.

Anemones with rhizomes are planted either in the spring, after the snow has melted, or in October. Before planting, rhizomes need to be soaked in warm water, and they are planted to a depth of 10 centimeters.

Lutichnaya and oak anemone- shade-loving, so they need to be planted in the shade of trees or building walls, which will protect not only from the sun, but also the wind.

It is better to plant crown and tender anemone in a sunny area, but not in direct rays. They need moderate watering, never excessive, so that the soil has time to dry out. Stagnation of moisture will lead to rotting. It is better not to plant anemones near bushes.

How to prepare the soil

Before planting flowers, you need to choose the optimal place for them and properly prepare the ground. The most best place is a spacious area in the shade, protected from wind and drafts, since the flower does not like either drafts or heat. Since the anemone grows very quickly and strongly, and its roots are very fragile, you need to find a place so that they do not come into contact with anything. For the same reason, the soil should be loose and well-drained. Deciduous-peaty or loamy soil is ideal for anemones.

To make the structure of the earth ideal, you can add sand, and if it is too acidic, you can add wood ash or dolomite flour.

How to prepare seeds

When the soil is ready, you can start preparing the seeds, which, by the way, have a rather low germination ability: if the seeds were collected in the previous year, then no more than a quarter of them will germinate. It is possible to increase germination. To do this, they must be exposed to cold for 1-2 months, i.e. subject them to stratification. This is quite simple to do: take the seeds and mix them with sand or peat, which should be 3 times more than the seeds, moisten it well and spray it every day with plain water until the seeds swell. Immediately after this, you need to add a little more substrate to the container with the seeds, mix and moisten a little. Until sprouts appear, the seeds should be kept in a ventilated area where the temperature does not exceed 5ºC. After germination, the container can be taken outside, buried in snow or soil. To prevent the sprouts from freezing, the place where the seeds were buried should be sprinkled with sawdust or covered with straw.

With the arrival of early spring, the flowers can be transplanted into boxes. There is a more carefree option: sow the seeds in boxes in the fall and bury them in the ground, thus natural stratification occurs in winter, and in the spring all you need to do is dig up a container and plant the anemones - the planting is completed.

How to prepare tubers

Before planting tubers, they need to be awakened. To do this, you need to take a container, pour warm water into it and put the tubers in there for several hours. When the tubers swell, they can be planted in pots with a sand-peat mixture to a depth of about 5 centimeters. The soil must be moistened regularly.

Another way to prepare tubers for planting is to moisten a cloth with epin solution, wrap the tubers in it, put it in a plastic bag and leave it there for 5-6 hours. Now you can plant them in pots.

How to plant tubers

The most important thing in planting tubers is to correctly determine the growth point. You need to look at the tuber itself: the top should be flat and the bottom sharp. In addition, if the tubers have been pre-processed and swollen, then bud tubercles can be seen on them. If the shape is unclear, then it is better to plant the tuber sideways.

Disembarkation rules

Before planting seedlings in pots, you need to wait until at least two true leaves appear. If you plant an anemone flower ahead of time, planting and care will require additional effort. If flowers are planted in autumn, they need to be covered with fallen leaves or hay. Anemones grown from seeds will bloom only in the third or fourth year.

In order for anemones to bloom from spring to late autumn, it is necessary to select varieties that bloom at different times and plant them each at their own time.

How to properly care for anemone

So, the anemone flower has been successfully prepared, planting and care are now simple. The most important thing is to monitor the soil moisture, because if it is waterlogged, the roots will rot, and if the soil is dry, the flower will grow poorly and may not bloom at all. To keep the humidity level balanced, it is better to choose a location on a hill and ensure good drainage. It would also be a good idea to mulch the soil. Peat or leaves with fruit trees, which need to be laid on the soil in a layer of 5 centimeters.

In the spring, one-time watering per week is enough; in the summer, when the weather is cool, it is also enough to water once a week; when it gets very hot, you need to water every morning or evening after sunset.

During flowering, anemones need to be supported; for this you can use liquid organic matter, with the exception of fresh manure, in autumn period can be fertilized with complex mineral fertilizer. But if the soil was fertilized before sowing the seeds, then fertilizing is not necessary.

Because root system Anemone is very fragile, you need to make sure that the soil is loose and there are no weeds that need to be pulled out by hand rather than weeded out.

With the arrival of autumn, anemones need to be prepared for wintering. Varieties that have tubers must be dug up, all leaves cut off, the tubers dried, buried in sand or peat and lowered into a cool, dry basement. It is better to do the same with rhizomes, storing them in a well-ventilated room. If the winters are not very cold, then you don’t have to dig up the flowers, but then they need to be covered with hay, leaves or spruce. Crown anemone can be left in the ground, but during the winter it needs to be covered with manure or leaves.

The main pests of the flower are snails and slugs, from which a solution of metaldehyde, winter worm and leaf nematode can help. In case of nematode damage, it is better to get rid of the plant and replace the soil.

Now you know what secrets anemone flowers have (planting and care). Photos of these plants reliably reflect the simplicity of all manipulations.

Planting and caring for anemones (in brief)

• Landing: sowing fresh seeds for seedlings in June-July or before winter (October-November) in boxes. Planting tubers in spring.
• Bloom: spring, summer or autumn - depending on the species.
• Lighting: for forest species - partial shade, for Mediterranean species - bright sunlight.
• The soil: loose, fertile, (sandy or peat) preferably neutral.
• Watering: only in dry times and during the flowering period.
• Feeding: liquid organic and mineral fertilizers during flowering and autumn.
• Reproduction: seed and vegetative (tubers, dividing a bush or parts of a rhizome).
• Pests: leaf nematodes, aphids, South American leaf miners, thrips and whiteflies.
• Diseases: gray rot, peronosporosis (false powdery mildew), anthracnose, sclerotinia, viral infections.

Read more about growing anemones below.

Growing anemones - features

Among the variety of species and varieties of anemones, there are some that are completely unpretentious, and there are those that require special care, and this difference is explained by the fact that some anemones have rhizomes, while others have tubers. Species with rhizomes are easy to grow, but mistakes in caring for tuberous anemones lead to serious consequences.

There are a few things to consider if you are interested in growing anemones.

• Firstly, These flowers require mandatory watering in dry, hot weather.
• Secondly, autumn feeding it is necessary to carry out complex mineral fertilizers, and fertilize the soil before planting or during growth and flowering - with organic fertilizers.
• Third, In winter, protect anemones from frost by covering them with dry leaves.
• And the last thing: It is best to propagate anemones in the spring by root suckers or seeds sown closer to winter. We will dwell on all these features in more detail below.

Preparing to plant anemones

Preparing the soil for anemone

Before planting anemones, you need to choose a planting site and prepare the soil. The area will need to be spacious, shaded and protected from drafts. The rhizomes of anemones grow greatly during the season, but are so fragile that they are damaged by contact, and this must be taken into account. Besides, Anemones do not tolerate extreme heat and drafts. The soil is well-drained, loose and fertile. Loam or deciduous soil with peat is best. To create an ideal structure, add simple sand to the soil, and you can reduce excessive acidity, which is harmful to anemones, by adding dolomite flour or wood ash to the soil.

Preparing Anemone Seeds

Those who decide to grow flowers from seeds should know that anemone seeds have low germination rate: no more than a quarter germinates, and only from freshly collected seeds. But if you subject the seeds to stratification, that is, expose them to cold for 1-2 months, you can increase their germination. To do this, the seeds are mixed with coarse sand or peat at the rate of 1 part seeds to three parts sand, well moistened and sprayed with water daily to maintain the required humidity.

When and how to sow asters - advice from experienced gardeners

As soon as the seeds swell, add a little substrate, mix, moisten and place in a ventilated room with a temperature no higher than 5 ºC. A few days later, when the sprouts hatch, the container with the seeds should be taken out into the yard, buried in the snow or soil and sprinkled with sawdust or straw. In early spring, the seeds are transplanted into boxes for germination.

But to save yourself from all this hassle, it is better to plant the seeds in autumn in boxes with loose soil and bury them in the yard, covering them with cut branches. Over the winter they will undergo natural freezing, and in the spring you will dig them up and plant them.

In the photo: planting anemone seeds for seedlings in trays

Preparing anemone tubers

Before planting, anemone tubers are awakened from sleep by soaking in warm water for several hours to swell, and then planted to a depth of 5 cm in pots with a damp mixture of peat and sand for germination. The soil in pots should be moistened moderately but regularly. Some gardeners recommend “soaking” the anemone bulbs, wrapping them in a cloth well moistened with epin solution and keeping them for about six hours in plastic bag. After this, anemones can be immediately planted in the ground.

In the photo: Preparing anemone tubers for planting

Planting anemones

Planting anemone tubers

Planting an anemone does not involve any special difficulties; the main thing is to determine the growth point. Pre-processed, swollen tubers have visible bud tubercles, and it is clear how to plant them. But if in doubt, remember: the top of the anemone tuber is flat, so you need to plant it with the sharp end down. If you are confused by the shape of the tuber, plant it on its side. The hole for the anemone should be 30-40 cm in diameter and 15 cm deep. Pour a handful of humus and ash into the bottom of the hole, then place the tuber, sprinkle it with soil and lightly press it down. Water the place where the anemone flowers are planted well.

In the photo: Anemone seedlings ready for transplanting into the ground

Planting Anemone Seeds

By the time of planting, anemone seedlings must have at least two leaves. Seedlings are planted in the ground in a slightly shaded place in the second year of growth. If planting is carried out in the fall, the sown area is covered with branches or leaves from frost. Anemones grown from seeds will bloom only after three years.

As for the timing of planting tubers or seeds, you can ensure that anemones will bloom on your site from April to November if you purchase different varieties and plant them at the optimal time for each of them.

Anemone care

Caring for anemone is simple and not burdensome. The main problem in this matter is maintaining the required level humidity throughout the entire growing season. The danger is that if overwatered, the root system may die from rot. And the lack of moisture, especially during the formation of buds, does not contribute to the growth and flowering of anemone. To balance the humidity level, plants should be planted at a higher elevation in an area with good drainage.

After planting, it is very advisable to mulch the area with a five-centimeter layer of foliage from fruit trees or peat. Concerning glaze, then in the spring it is enough to moisten the soil once a week; in temperate summer anemone additional watering does not need it, the only exception is the crown anemone during the flowering period. During hot, dry summers, water daily in the morning or after sunset.

Feed the anemones preferably during flowering with liquid organic matter (anemones do not like only fresh manure) and complex mineral fertilizers in the autumn. If you fertilized the bed before planting the anemone, then fertilizing can be omitted altogether. Also recommended regularly loosen the soil And pull out the weeds. Or rather, do not weed, but dig through it with your hands, since you can damage the fragile root system of the anemone with a hoe.

Anemones are disease resistant; Sometimes they are harmed by slugs and snails, but a solution of metaldehyde will help you deal with these pests, which must first be collected by hand. Some anemones suffer from winter cutworm (cutworm caterpillar) or leaf nematode. When affected by a nematode, it is better to destroy the diseased plants and replace the soil in which they grew.

Anemone breeds seeds, tubers, division of rhizomes or bushes. We have already talked about propagation by tubers and the most unpromising method, seed. When dividing the rhizomes, they (rhizomes) are dug up in the spring, cut into pieces 5 cm long with an obligatory bud on each piece and planted, placed horizontally in loose soil to a depth of 5 cm. Such a plant reaches maturity after three years. Transplantation with dividing the bush can only be done with plants that are 4-5 years old.

Anemone after flowering

In the climate middle zone with the onset of autumn, anemones need to be removed from the soil and prepared for winter storage : dry the tubers, cut off the tops ( aboveground part bush) and store in the dark and cool, placing it in peat or sand. A damp basement is best suited for this.

In the photo: Growing anemones in a flower bed

If you decide not to dig up anemones in anticipation of a warm winter, cover the area with fallen leaves or spruce branches so that unexpected frost does not destroy the flowers.

Anemone species

Since anemone is a flower in culture and nature presented in a wide variety, and different types require various care, let's get acquainted with at least the most common representatives of the anemone family.

Types and features of caring for anemones. Based on the time of flowering, anemones are divided into spring and summer (or autumn). Spring anemones very elegant, wide range pastel shades: snow-white, cream, pink, blue, lilac... There are even terry varieties. Spring anemones are ephemeroids, that is, their above-ground flowering cycle is short: waking up in April, they bloom in May, and in July they already retire, although in many species the leaves remain until autumn. Anemones differ in the type of rhizome. In the buttercup and oak anemones the rhizome is jointed and fragile, while in the tender anemone it is tuberous and slowly growing.

This plant is miniature, 5-10 cm in height, the most popular varieties– Blue Shades (blue), Charmer (pink), White Splendour (white).

In the photo: Tender Anemone (Anemone blanda)

Not so popular in our latitudes, the height of the bush is 20-30 cm, the diameter of the flower is 2-4 cm, the flowers are usually simple white, but in cultivation there are varieties with blue, lilac and pink flowers. There are even terry specimens. The main advantage is unpretentiousness.

In the photo: Anemone nemorosa

It is also unpretentious, also has double varieties, the height of the bush is 20-25 cm, the flowers are bright yellow, slightly smaller than those of the oak anemone, and grows in almost any soil.

In the photo: Anemone ranunculoides

Summer-blooming (autumn) anemones represented by such types as Japanese anemone (Anemone japonica), hybrid anemone (Anemone hybrida) And crown anemone (Anemone coronaria). As a rule, these are large perennials, whose powerful root system is well branched. They bloom from late summer to mid-autumn.

In the photo: Japanese Anemone (Anemone japonica)

Cetetus twice - in early summer and autumn. Flower stalks autumn species strong and slender, from 80 cm to one and a half meters tall, bearing up to several dozen simple or semi-double flowers different shades. The most popular varieties of crown anemone are De Caen anemone, which has simple single flowers of a variety of colors, Mister Focker - blue flowers; anemone terry variety Don Juan (bright red), Lord Jim (blue flowers).

In the photo: Crown Anemone (Anemone coronaria)

Hybrid anemone (Anemone x hybrida)

Known for such varieties as Honorine Jobert with white flowers, slightly pinkish below, semi-double dark purple anemone Profusion, Queen Charlotte, also a semi-double anemone succulent Pink colour. Japanese anemone is most often represented in cultivation by such species as Pamina, with large dark pink, almost burgundy double flowers, Hadspen Abundance - a tall anemone with cream flowers, and Prinz Heinrich with semi-double bright pink flowers.

In the photo: Hybrid Anemone (Anemone hybrida)

Word " anemos" has Greek roots and means " wind" Plant anemone (anemone) received this name due to the fact that its petals easily fall off in the wind.

The plant became popular many centuries ago due to its beauty and ease of cultivation. There are approximately 150 varieties of the plant, which are distributed throughout the Northern Hemisphere. These are tuberous and rhizomatous perennial anemones, the height of which can vary from 10 cm to 1 m. The colors of the flowers are varied: blue, pink, yellow, blue, white. Anemone blooms in early spring.

There are many types of anemone, but the most common are: Altai, hybrid, buttercup, crown.

Use in folk medicine

The plant exhibits anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, analgesic, diuretic, and diaphoretic properties. Decoctions from parts of the plant were used to treat hearing and vision disorders, whooping cough, intestinal diseases, toothaches and headaches, paralysis, menstrual irregularities, and impotence.

For various skin diseases, rheumatism, syphilis, anemone decoctions are useful as lotions and compresses. It is recommended to apply the flowers of the plant to ripening abscesses so that they open faster. The use of anemone preparations must be approved by a herbalist, since the plant itself exhibits toxic properties.

Altai

It is a herbaceous perennial with a cylindrical creeping rhizome of a yellowish color and a low, smooth stem. The flowers are small - no more than 4 - 5 cm in diameter. Flowering occurs in April or May. It is found in Eastern Siberia, in the European part of Russia. Grows in mixed and coniferous forests, on lawns and forest edges.

Both the underground and above-ground parts of the plant are used in medicine. Alkaloids and flavonoids with antimicrobial effects were found in Altai anemone. A decoction of this plant in folk medicine used internally for epileptic seizures, and externally for a variety of skin diseases. Chinese medicine advises taking a decoction of the plant's rhizomes for nephritis, and a decoction of the herb itself as a diaphoretic: externally for dermatomycosis.

Altai anemone recipes:
1. Boil one spoon of dried and crushed rhizomes in 250 ml of water, after infusing and straining, take two spoons three times a day for the flu.
2. Boil half a teaspoon of dry crushed herb for several minutes in 250 ml of water, after infusing and straining, take half a glass three times a day for epileptic seizures.

White

This plant is up to 30 - 40 cm high and has a brownish rhizome. The stems are straight, the peduncles are located singly. The plant is distributed in Belarus, Russia, Moldova, and Ukraine. Prefers to grow in bushes, lawns, and forests. Has a beautiful decorative look; has poisonous properties if used incorrectly. In folk medicine, the aerial part of the white anemone is used ( leaves).

It contains: chelidonic acid, saponins, protoanemonin. The beneficial properties of protoanemonin are based on its stimulating effect on the body. This substance improves hematopoiesis, stimulates neurovascular regulation processes, and activates the operating factors of the reticuloendothelial system. Protoanemonin has the property of suppressing the development of diseases of a putrefactive, purulent or necrotic nature.

Homeopathic preparations based on white anemone have diuretic, diaphoretic and sedative effects. It is recommended to take an infusion of herbs internally for inflammatory processes in the lungs, for heart pathologies, and for stomach pain. A decoction of the herb is used externally to treat gout and erysipelas; for the treatment of pustular and blister skin diseases.

White anemone recipes:
1. Pour 5 grams of dry herb into 250 ml of boiling water and leave for an hour. After straining, the product is ready for use. This decoction is prescribed for rheumatism. Directions for use: 1 - 2 tablespoons of decoction 2 times a day.
2. 2 grams of dry leaves or 5 grams of fresh leaves pour into a glass cold water, insist, drink in small sips throughout the day for diseases such as cholelithiasis, inflammation of the spleen, bladder and kidneys.

Forked

The plant has an erect stem and a thin brown rhizome. Plant length is from 30 to 70 cm. Flowering begins in June or July. The plant can be found in Eastern and Western Siberia, in the European zone of Russia, and in the Far Eastern regions. Forked anemone loves to grow in damp places and grassy swamps. The plant's herb and its roots have medicinal value. Leaves, flowers and stems are harvested in summer time, during flowering.

The plant contains many useful and important substances: cardenolides, alkaloids, gamma-lactone, essential oils, saponins, flavonoids, vitamins. Fatty oil can be extracted from the fruits and used in various combinations to treat problem skin. Tibetan medicine uses a decoction of the herb to treat weak vision, hearing impairment, and heart pathologies.

Long-haired

The plant is up to 60 cm high, has a very developed root and large leaves. The flowers are not large. Flowering begins in June. Distribution: Eastern and Western Siberia. Grows in deciduous and light coniferous forests.

The plant's herb and its roots are used in medicine. The roots contain flavonoids. The stems contain oil, alkaloids, organic acids, flavonoids. Tibetan medicine recommends using an infusion of the anemone herb for hearing and vision impairment, gout, and impotence.
Mongolian medicine uses infusions and decoctions of anemone as a general strengthening, stimulating, detoxifying agent for poisoning with toxins and poisons. The plant has antibacterial properties. Infusions of flowers are useful for external use for washing purulent wounds.

Long-haired anemone recipes:
1. 10 grams of crushed dry herb pour 250 ml of boiling water, after infusion and straining, take a third of a glass several times a day as potency decreases.
2. Pour 5 grams of dry herb into 300 ml of boiling water and simmer for several minutes over low heat. Take a third of a glass 3 times a day for gout.

Lesnaya

The plant is of medium height, with short rhizomes. Flowers white. Prevalence: in the European zone of Russia, in Belarus, Ukraine, Moldova, Asia, Far East, in Scandinavia. This ornamental plant, which are good for planting slopes and rocky areas. Poisonous. In folk medicine, preparations from this plant are used as an antibacterial agent.

A decoction from the plant is recommended for rheumatism, nervous diseases, gonorrhea, leucorrhoea, syphilis, for itching and skin diseases, for toothache and headaches, as a diuretic, for rheumatoid joint lesions. Taking into account the fact that drugs from of this plant have anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, diaphoretic effects, they are used for colds and flu to treat the upper respiratory tract. Decoctions and infusions are also used to treat ophthalmological diseases and otolaryngological pathologies. Decoctions are used externally to treat abscesses.

Forest anemone recipes:
1. Pour 1 - 2 teaspoons of dry crushed leaves cold water in an amount of 250 ml, leave for 24 hours. Drink the resulting mixture little by little throughout the day if you have hearing loss. It is advisable to coordinate the use of the infusion with your doctor.
2. Pour a tablespoon of leaves into 400 ml of boiling water, boil for several minutes, after straining and infusing, drink half a glass twice a day for flu, colds, bronchitis.

Lutichnaya

The plant blooms in early spring. Often found in the European zone of Russia, the Caucasus, and Ukraine. Poisonous. It prefers to grow in deciduous and mixed forests, less often along the banks of rivers, streams, and in spruce forests.

The herb of the plant, as well as the juice of the roots, is used in medicine. It contains resin, saponins, tannins, ranunculin, and anemonol. When anemonol decomposes, the substance anemonin is formed, which exhibits an antispasmodic and analgesic effect. Juice from the roots of Anemone buttercup is used to remove warts. An infusion based on the leaves is suitable for relieving swelling; It also treats kidney diseases, has an expectorant effect on dry coughs, and reduces stomach pain. An infusion of the herb is recommended for use for rapid heartbeat, dysmenorrhea, and jaundice. This remedy can be used externally as a skin irritant for headaches and other types of pain, for rheumatism, and for scrofula. The leaves of the plant can be dangerous - they have narcotic properties.

Anemone buttercup recipe:
1. Add a teaspoon of herb to 500 ml of boiling water; after steeping and straining, drink a tablespoon 2-4 times a day for diseases of the upper respiratory tract.

Radde

This is a low plant with a thickened and short rhizome. Peduncles are solitary, leaves are located at the top. Flowering begins in May. The root shoots of the plant have been used in medicine and are excellent for treating chronic rheumatism, lower back pain, and inflammatory processes in the joints.

Recipe for Radde anemone:
1. 1 - 2 grams of roots are boiled for 3 minutes in 250 ml of boiling water, filtered. Drink a third of a glass in the morning and evening.

Dubravnaya

Oak anemone blooms in early spring. The plant contains anemonin, which can be toxic. Compared to other types of anemone, oak anemone is significantly less toxic. The shape of the plant's leaves resembles those of cannabis. The juice of the plant is irritating to the skin and mucous membranes. Anemone in the diet of cows can lead to a slightly pinkish color in the milk.

In medicine, fresh, or less often, dry leaves of this plant are used, collected in clear and dry weather ( so that there is no morning dew left on the leaves); grass

The plant has a stem length of up to 30 cm, the flowers are quite large. Prefers to grow in mixed and deciduous forests, in steppe zones. The plant contains flavonoids, vitamins, organic acids, saponins, alkaloids, protoanemonin. Herbal decoctions are useful for headaches, menstrual pain, and toothache; for weakness of vision, colds, leucorrhoea, menstrual irregularities, gonorrhea, paralysis, impotence. The use of a decoction is a strictly individual process, and indications for it can only be determined by a doctor, so you should not self-medicate.

For various skin diseases, for rheumatism, for erysipelas, you need to apply compresses from decoctions. Flowers in a fresh state help abscesses and ulcers to ripen and open faster.

Cultivation

Most types of anemone love shade. Humidity, twilight, moderate air temperature - all these parameters create good conditions for plant growth and flowering. Shade-loving species include such types of anemone as Udin, Radde, forked, Amur, smooth, Altai, forest, oak, and Canadian. These plants need to be planted under tree branches so that they grow in the shade. At the same time, tree crowns should be sparse ( like cherry, rowan, sea buckthorn, plum) so that the anemone receives sunlight.

Light-loving species include Caucasian, tender, crowned, Apennine anemone. Southern light slopes and alpine meadows are the optimal place for their growth.

All varieties require an average amount of moisture. They grow well in moist soil as long as there is good drainage. Plants do not do well in stagnantly moist areas of soil. Temporary drought is well tolerated by all types of anemone without exception, especially Caucasian, long-haired, Apennine and forest.

The best soil for cultivation is loose and fertile. Anemone is practically the only plant that grows and blooms well on sandy soils. Although if it is transplanted into fertile soil, it begins to bloom more profusely and produces larger flowers.

Forest, forked, Canadian - these varieties are very demanding on the soil. Peaty soil with moderate moisture suits them.

Transplantation is best done in the spring; in the autumn it is less successful. Anemones do not like transplanting. Therefore, you should not replant the plant more than 1 - 2 times. In the spring, plant tubers that have been stored all winter are planted in the ground.

A piece of rhizome with a bud on it should be planted at a depth of no more than 5 cm. After planting, there is no need to water the seedling. For the winter, one rhizome remains in the ground. After overwintering, the anemone is one of the first to appear in the garden, pleasing to the eye bright colors.

Caring for plants is easy. Mulching with loose peat, humus, complex fertilizers, as well as shelter for the winter from frost - these are the main factors due to which anemones will grow and bloom.

One of the most dangerous pests for anemones is the leaf nematode. The affected leaves are immediately noticeable: brownish spots form on them, darkening over time. Severe damage can lead to the death of the plant. If a flower bed with anemones is affected, it is better to dig up and destroy the plants, replace the soil in this place and plant other flowers.

Reproduction is carried out by tubers, parts of rhizomes, and seeds.

Anemones go well with primroses, peonies, and phlox.

Before use, you should consult a specialist.