Among the inhabitants of the garden, beautiful flowering shrubs. Their graceful branches are covered beautiful foliage and densely crowned with bright buds. They delight the eye during the decorative period, they can turn an unseemly corner into paradise, decorate the facade and enliven the garden plot. Azalea has a special splendor garden planting and care in open ground, behind which there are a lot of subtleties. The material from this article will help you learn all the nuances of growing a luxurious representative of the flora in the garden. Particular attention will be paid to preparing for a successful wintering, because for the climate of Siberia and Central Russia this point in caring for shrubs is key. You will also learn the features of agricultural technology, reproduction and ideas for using exotic plants in landscape design.

Garden azalea, features of the species, photo

Azalea is the name proudly worn by some species included in the genus Rhododendron. Although they were previously separated into a separate genus, due to their genetic similarity they were combined into one genus - Rhododendron. The difference between them is only in the number of stamens, of which azaleas have 5, and rhododendrons have more than a dozen.

The genus belongs to the Heather family. Both names are also considered synonymous. In addition, beautiful and stately representatives of the genus are often called rose trees. This name comes from Latin name Rhododendron, made up of the words "rose" and "tree". Indeed, some members of the family are enormous in size and bloom like roses with large, bright buds.

This is interesting! Along with albizia, sakura, wisteria and delonix, rhododendrons are recognized as the most beautiful flowering trees peace.

In fact, the majority cultural species represented by shrubs and shrubs, 60-300 cm in height. The greatest distribution of marvelous plants is observed in Asia - China, Japan, and the Himalayas.

Garden azalea is the collective name for hybrids bred from the Kuruma rhododendron, traditionally grown in Japan. Botanist Ernest Henry Wilson brought the first exotic specimens to Europe. Since the beginning of the 20th century, they have been actively subjected to hybridization with the participation of Rhododendron Sims, but the low frost resistance of the original species was passed on to their “children.” By the middle of the century, it was possible to obtain more stable hybrids that can be grown in open ground even in harsh climates. They are based on Japanese rhododendron, known for its high decorative qualities, unpretentiousness and frost resistance. But initially the Asian guest was cherished and raised exclusively in room conditions and greenhouses. At the moment, breeders have managed to breed more than 3 thousand garden hybrids.

Representatives of the genus are so diverse that any gardener can get a rose tree based on personal preferences. In addition to differences in the height of individuals, there is a variety of shapes of pubescent leaf blades and their size. There are petiolate and sessile leaves, entire and with a serrated edge, oval and obovate. The foliage also differs in its lifespan - deciduous, evergreen, semi-deciduous (with a two-year life cycle).

Corymbose or racemose inflorescences make up buds from 1 to 20 cm in diameter with an asymmetrical corolla. The color of the petals is very diverse, thanks to which gardeners and landscape designers This opens up a great opportunity to create unique compositions.

Common features are:

• fruit in the form of a five-leaf capsule with rod-shaped seeds;
• slow growth rate;
• superficial root system of fibrous type;
• life expectancy over 20 years;
• the possibility of vegetative and generative propagation.

Attention! All representatives of the genus are poisonous. Each part of the bush contains the strongest poison rhodotoxin, which causes a disruption in the conductivity of nerve receptors and depression of the central nervous system.

The neurotoxin has found application in medicine; drops are made from it to treat heart diseases, effective drugs from epilepsy. The delicate aroma of the buds attracts pollinators, but causes paralysis and even death of insects. If they survive after feasting on poisonous nectar, then the “drunken honey” they make can cause hallucinations and depress the human central nervous system. Beekeepers are strongly advised not to plant azaleas near their homes.

Growing conditions

The decorative value of a rose tree will directly depend on the space allocated to it in the garden and the care provided. We will talk about this in the relevant sections of the article.

But when choosing a landing site, it is important to start from biological features plants. The structure of the root system and habit (external appearance) of the shrub allows it to be planted far from everywhere. The roots of the exotic plant are fibrous, lie in close proximity to the soil and tend to grow in width to increase the feeding area. This feature does not allow planting exotic trees near neighbors with the same type of root system - linden, elm, maple, birch, and willow. When planting next to these trees, competition for nutrients and territory.

In the wild, the Asian tree grows under the canopy of other trees, so such a neighborhood is preferable for it. Feel free to plant exotic trees in the shade of oak, pine, larch, fruit bushes. Their root system is structured differently - the central root goes deep to get water. Be sure to retreat from the tree trunk circle at least half the projection of its crown.

Advice! If it is not possible to plant the Asian guest away from the described unfavorable neighbors, experienced gardeners recommend isolating the feeding area by laying plastic film in the soil.

Decorative plantings

To achieve maximum decorative value of azaleas, it is better to use group plantings. Each group should consist of at least three shrubs with different bud colors. It is recommended to allocate 1 m2 of area to each individual. In this case, tall shrubs should be in the center, and low-growing ones along the perimeter. It is not recommended to mix deciduous and evergreen species in one group, since in spring and autumn the decorative effect of the group will be greatly affected.

White buds are ideally combined with purple, yellow, and pink. An orange-red or yellow mix is ​​also a great option. It is good to arrange shrubs in a group with low-growing conifers - thuja, yew, decorative spruce.
Rose trees differ in their flowering time. The decorative period lasts about 3 weeks, but by combining several varieties with different flowering periods on the site, you can create paradise, which will delight you throughout the summer.

Purchase of seedlings

Before buying a seedling, study the possibilities of your site to select the best individual. If there is not enough space, choose compact, low-growing varieties; if you have room to “swing”, purchase a larger tree. Be sure to take into account the zoning of the hybrid you choose, because this point is the key to successful cultivation of the plant. In the south of Russia, any species and varieties of rhododendron can be planted, and planting in open ground in risky farming zones is possible only with the use of frost-resistant varieties.

You need to purchase seedlings only from specialized local nurseries. When several generations of exotics grew up in one area, they developed sufficient acclimatization.

Attention! Avoid shopping at markets or from those who sell second-hand. The purchased seedling may have a completely different habit or may suffer from agricultural mistakes or get sick.

Pay attention to the appearance of the layer, the condition of its roots, and age. The best age for planting is 2-4 years. The absence of injuries on the surface of the bark, neat healthy leaves, viable buds, elastic shoots, the presence of several branches - these are the qualities that the above-ground part of the seedling should have. The underground part must be covered in an earthen lump and moderately moistened. Gently pull the base of the shoots; if the seedling begins to stretch out with the ground, it will take root perfectly.

How does frost-resistant azalea differ from indoor azalea?

As was said at the very beginning of the article, azaleas can be grown not only in open ground. Compact varieties make excellent representatives of window flora.

What is the difference between garden and indoor varieties? Potted crops have compact, densely leafy bushes, not exceeding a height of half a meter, usually 25-30 cm. They can be larger (up to 1 m) if formed in the form of a standard tree, because the birthplace of the exotic is Japan, where they reverently treat the ancient art of bonsai . Window flora is sold in garden centers year-round. Buds or flowers appear on it at the end of winter.

Seedlings of garden frost-resistant species are mainly sold in early spring or autumn. The height of a seedling at the age of 3 years is about 30-50 cm, its crown is much thinner. If the purchase is made in the spring, then there should be no leaves on the bush.

Know! When visiting a garden center, you can find indoor varieties of rhododendron in the potted section, and garden varieties in the outdoor section.

Planting a garden azalea

Garden rhododendrons are characterized by increased capriciousness. For these shrubs, lighting, soil type, fertility, structure, soil acidity, and the right neighbors are important. To comply with all these subtleties, you need to choose the right place and plant using proven technology. But before that, let’s figure out when to plant the wonderful Asian plant.

Most garden dwellers are planted in early spring, before active sap flow begins. Our exotic is no exception. Although it can be planted at any time, except for flowering, it is better to rely on the natural biorhythms of the bush. In the fall you can buy seedlings at a lower price, so many gardeners buy planting material by the end of the season. Autumn planting possible for regions with a mild climate, it is important to do it before mid-September. This period will allow the bush to take root in a new place and successfully survive the winter.

On a note! If a seedling purchased in the fall was not planted within the recommended time frame, store it in a cool basement at a temperature of 10-12⁰C. Required condition storage is good ventilation and very moderate watering or spraying.

Choosing a landing site

A shaded area of ​​the garden on the north side is suitable for exotics. Diffuse lighting is optimal for garden varieties; they will be comfortable under the canopy of trees. In an area that is too sunny, the bush will lose its decorative effect, the flowering period will be shortened, the buds will form poorly, the foliage will wither, and the bright inflorescences will quickly fall off.

When choosing a site, the level of groundwater is important. An aquifer close to the surface can destroy delicate roots, causing them to rot. The place should be well protected from gusts of wind and drafts. In winter, the maximum amount of snow should fall there. At the same time, in the spring, excess water should not accumulate after melting. Even air humidity is important for the capricious Asian woman; she will grow healthy and strong near an artificial pond and become its beautiful frame.

What soil to plant in

Soil acidity is very important for rosewood. It will certainly get sick and die if you plant it on loam or soil with a high lime content. Acidity in the range of 4.5-5.5 will make the existence of an Asian guest comfortable. To achieve this indicator, gardeners add peat, potassium sulfate and even use solutions organic acids(vinegar, lemon).

To get a good substrate for growing shrubs, prepare a mixture of leaf soil, acidic peat and pine litter in a ratio of 3:2:1. Adding sand will help increase looseness. If the soil is too light, this risks freezing of the roots, add a little loam. It is unacceptable to use fertilizers that alkalize the soil - ash, sawdust, fresh manure, humus - as substrate components.

Advice! To plant exotic plants, it is not necessary to prepare the substrate yourself; you can purchase it at a garden center. The optimal composition will be provided by a mixture for heather crops.

How to land correctly

To plant a luxurious rose tree in your garden, use the following instructions:

1. For a compact root system of a seedling, it is enough to prepare a hole with a depth of 40-50 cm and a diameter of 60-70 cm.
2. The step between tall hybrids is 1.6-2.0 m, for medium-tall hybrids 1.2-1.5 m is enough, and for short ones 50-70 cm.
3. 6 hours before planting, place the seedling in a bucket of warm, settled water. Hold the roots until the release of air bubbles stops.
4. Place a drainage layer of brick chips in an even layer at the bottom of the hole, 10 cm high.
5. Place a mound of prepared soil mixture on top of the drainage. Its height should be such that the root collar is 3-4 cm above ground level.
6. Carefully distribute the roots over the surface of the embankment, add soil mixture, and compact it a little.
7. After abundant watering, wait until the moisture is completely absorbed and mulch. Use peat chips and pine needles.
8. If necessary, provide support and frame the ridge with large stones so that the soil does not wash away after heavy watering.

Important! The mulch should not cover the root collar; its layer should be at least 5-7 cm.

Be sure to straighten the roots during planting, trim them if necessary and partially free them from the earthen clod. If this is not done, the bush will not take root well, because in a tight container the fibrous root system is tightly compressed, which makes further growth difficult.

Transplanting azalea

If necessary, replanting an adult shrub proceeds in the same way as planting. Dig around the bush around the perimeter of half the crown projection. Remove the earthen lump and transfer it to a previously prepared hole. It is not recommended to violate the integrity of the earthen coma. Be sure to make sure that the root collar is at the same level. It is better to replant bushes in early spring.

Care after planting, pruning rules

Caring for an Asian guest is not too difficult. If handled with care, this luxurious exotic will give you long and bright flowering.
The basis of proper care is regular abundant irrigation and periodic spraying of foliage. Water for irrigation should be soft, settled, and warm. Use rain or pond water. If this is not available, soften it by adding a little peat a day before watering. Exot is very moisture-loving, but will not tolerate swamp cultivation.

Watering should be done in small portions as soon as the top layer of soil dries. It is especially important to maintain irrigation during the period of budding and flowering. It is useful to acidify the soil monthly when watering, using the juice of 5 lemons dissolved in 5 liters of water. An adult bush will need 2.5 liters of such liquid, and a young bush will need 1.5 liters.

Towards the end of August, gradually reduce irrigation to slow down the growth process and speed up the maturation of the wood. Watering in the fall is carried out only in the absence of natural precipitation for a long time.

On a note! The lack of moisture in the soil can be judged by changes in leaf turgor. Loss of shine and drooping of the foliage is a signal for urgent watering.

To prevent the plant from suffering from rapid evaporation of moisture and overheating of the roots, be sure to mulch tree trunk circles. Mulch must be added periodically. Loosening after watering is unacceptable, because the most delicate network of roots lies in close proximity to the surface of the earth. Because of this, you cannot use a hoe for weeding; remove weeds manually.

The azalea will bloom more luxuriantly if fertilizers are applied in a timely manner, but it should not be overfed. Nitrogen in the form of mullein is applied only in early spring. It will help you wake up from sleep and begin building up green mass. This microelement should not be present in further feedings, otherwise you may not wait for flowering, but the bush will become much more luxuriant. Before flowering, apply potash fertilizers, such as potassium nitrate. Feed the shrub for the last time in mid-July using phosphorus complexes.

Remember! Bring in wood ash unacceptable - it will shift the pH level to the alkaline side, which will cause chlorosis of the foliage. Lime compounds and fertilizers with chlorine will lead to the death of the plant I.

The peculiarity of rhododendron is that pruning is not a mandatory measure, because the tree is capable of independently forming the correct crown. If there is no need to thin out the crown or slightly reduce its splendor, then trimming is carried out in early spring. It serves for the purpose of sanitation of the bush.

At the same time, all damaged and frozen branches are removed, and diseased, weak growth is cut out. Sections thicker than 2 cm are treated with drying oil and garden varnish. Rejuvenation is carried out in two stages, cutting out half of the branches at a height of 40 cm. The second part is removed in the next season. Remember to be careful when trimming, because the sap of the plant is poisonous.

Since rhododendrons bloom on last year’s shoots, formative pruning is carried out after flowering so as not to affect flower buds. Remove faded inflorescences and adjust the crown without affecting the young growth.

Exot is susceptible to fungal diseases, rot, spotting, and rust. They occur due to improper agricultural practices and sharp fluctuations in temperature. Helps protect the bush from fungal attack spring treatment Bordeaux mixture. If you find signs of disease, treat the bushes with a fungicide solution.

Important! Foliage chlorosis is manifested by a weakening of the color of the blades. Adjust the acidity of the substrate by adding peat or watering with lemon solution.

If pest activity is detected - aphids, thrips, spider mites, mealybug, spray the bushes with a systemic insecticide.

Lack of flowering: causes and their elimination

Often, new gardeners are faced with a lack of rosewood flowering. It may be due to the following factors:

• lack of light;
• lack of moisture;
• excessive amounts of nitrogen fertilizers;
• air temperature above 25⁰C;
• pest attack, disease;
• incorrect soil composition;
• bad place for landing;
• freezing of flower buds.

Eliminate the flaws in agricultural technology, and the plant will certainly bloom. Watch a useful video about the flowering of garden azaleas.

How does azalea reproduce?

The exotic guest reproduces by seed and vegetative methods - cuttings, layering. Seed propagation is very unproductive, because the first flowering will have to wait up to 8 years. Throughout the entire period of seedling development, it is necessary to carefully protect them from winter cold. The seeds are sown in a nutritious acidic substrate and keep the soil constantly moist. When the seedlings get a little stronger, they are planted in individual containers and grown indoors or in a greenhouse for 1-2 years. Then you can plant them in a shady area, providing reliable winter shelter every year.

Cuttings are cut from semi-lignified branches, treated with a growth stimulator and rooted in a nutrient substrate for 3-4 months. They overwinter indoors, and in the spring they are planted on ridges for growing for 2 years.

Important! Cuttings and seed propagation not popular with gardeners. The best way to increase your plantation of rose trees is to prepare cuttings.

Deciduous varieties reproduce better by layering. Prepare a groove 10 cm deep and pin the lower shoot. Leave the crown in an upright position and care for it together with the mother bush. Next season, cut cuttings with root lobes and plant them directly on permanent place.

Azalea preparing for wintering

The heat-loving Asian beauty does not winter well in harsh climates. Even frost-resistant species will need reliable shelter. Moreover, its organization directly depends on the region and variety.

How wintering of azaleas depends on their type

By autumn, all types of Asian guest grow flower buds for the next season. Therefore, flowering next season directly depends on a good wintering.

Preparation begins already in mid-summer with the amount of watering reduced and fertilizing completely removed. Before the soil freezes, carry out abundant moisture-recharging watering. Take care of the root system by covering it with a blanket of mulch. 10 cm is enough for young shoots, and 25-30 cm for adults.

Further preparation tactics depend on the species. Deciduous shrubs are less susceptible to freezing, so normal preparation measures are sufficient for them. Bend the branches to the ground, secure them with staples, and throw spruce branches on top. To protect from the spring sun, cover with covering material.

Important! The shoots must be bent down until they are completely lignified.

Evergreen specimens are more susceptible to frost. They are covered using an air-dry shelter. Build a frame from metal mesh or U-shaped reinforcement with a margin of 20 cm on all sides of the bush. After the temperature drops to minus levels, 2 layers of covering material are pulled over the frame.

When to open azaleas after winter

There is no rush to remove the shelter. It is removed when the snow has completely melted and above-zero temperatures have set in. To avoid burning tender shoots and harming flower buds, remove the cover on a cloudy day for several hours. Gradually increase your exposure to sunlight. If there is a lack of moisture, be sure to irrigate.

Features of planting and caring for azaleas in the Moscow region, the Urals, and Siberia

Risky farming zones, including Siberia and the Urals, allow only frost-resistant hybrids to be grown. This principle is also suitable for the Moscow region. It is sad when a heat-loving plant unknowingly dies in the first winter, so the seedling must be selected in strict accordance with zonality.

Planting in these regions is carried out only in the spring. If the bush was purchased at an autumn fair, leave it to winter in the basement. Pay close attention to the growing rules described; they apply to any region.

In Siberia and the Urals, summers are very short, so the use of imported long-acting granular formulations for fertilizer is highly not recommended. Such supplements last for at least six months. The active growing season of the bush lasts only 3.5 months and fertilizing is not necessary from July.

Remember! The prolonged action of imported fertilizer will provoke the growth of new shoots, which will complicate the ripening of wood and lead to poor wintering.

For wintering in the Moscow region, the usual measures with bending down the branches are sufficient. In the harsh climate of Siberia, more substantial shelter will be required. You need to fill the frame with dry leaves or arrange the branches with spruce branches and tie them with twine. Be sure to use 2 layers of thick covering material. It will protect the kidneys from damping off and spring burns.

Garden azalea in landscape design, combination with other plants

In addition to group compositions, luxurious rhododendron caps can play the role of a tapeworm on a green lawn or create a wonderful ensemble with conifers. They will organically fit into any type of flower garden - mixborder, prefabricated flowerbed, rockery, alpine slide. Drop off near artificial reservoir or the facade of a building will allow you to get aesthetic pleasure from the magnificent Asian plant. Among the neighbors good company exotica will include bulbous perennials, peonies, hostas, hydrangea and ferns.

Conclusion

Garden azalea is a capricious crop, but if you follow the rules of planting and care in the open ground, it will give the gardener its enchanting flowering.

Garden azaleas, or, as they are commonly called according to the modern classification of species, rhododendrons, are a huge family of beautiful flowering shrubs that can seriously differ from each other in size, shades and shape of flowers and even lifestyle.

Numerous varieties and varieties of cultivated rhododendrons can:

• be evergreen and deciduous plants;
• reach a height of 3 meters and rise above the soil by only 50–60 cm;
• differ in flowering times.

But all these plants also have common features. Garden azaleas have rather elegant shoots, covered with light bark and slightly elongated oval leaves. The leaf blades are small, dense, with noticeable pile. When the time for azaleas to bloom comes, from late April to almost mid-summer, flowers with flat or funnel-shaped corollas appear en masse on the tops of last year's shoots.

Depending on the type and variety, you can enjoy a lush cloud of white, yellow, pink, lilac or purple flowers from three weeks to 2.5 months.

Deciduous varieties of garden azaleas have been successfully grown in Russia since pre-revolutionary times, and at the beginning of the last century they were actively used for landscaping and decorating parks near Moscow and St. Petersburg. Today, the breeding work of botanists around the world has made it possible to easily select plants that will good care very winter-hardy and bloom luxuriantly, growing in the middle zone.

Conditions for growing garden azaleas

Garden azalea belongs to perennial plants with fairly slow growth. This should be taken into account when choosing a place to plant a plant and organizing care for a young bush. Azaleas bloom for the first time only 3–4 years after planting, maturing and reaching full development.

The ideal temperature for growing garden azaleas in summer is 20–25 °C, which is quite acceptable for most regions of the Russian Federation. middle zone. In winter, many varieties and hybrids can withstand frosts down to 27–32 °C.

And yet the plant needs protection and year-round support. When planning to plant a garden azalea, you need to be very careful in choosing a suitable location. In nature, rhododendrons are light-loving, but when exposed to direct sunlight:

• lose their decorative effect faster;
• flower buds form worse;
• shorten the flowering period.

Therefore, for an azalea it is better to find a flat area in partial shade, protected from the wind and flooding by spring waters, where the bush will not suffer from summer heat, frost and gusts of cold air. A northern, eastern or western wall is suitable for planting shrubs near the house.

Rhododendrons grow well next to larger trees. However, it is worth taking into account that the roots of the plants do not interfere with each other. Spruces with a tap root system, small-leaved lindens and oaks feel good next to garden azaleas.

Azaleas benefit from proximity to garden and park ponds. Here, thanks to natural air humidification, the plant blooms longer and its foliage remains fresh.

Planting a garden azalea

Best time for transplanting or planting garden azaleas - early spring, when the plant has not begun to actively move sap. If for some reason rhododendrons are not planted at the beginning of the growing season, this can be done in September. During the remaining warm days and weeks, the shrub will have time to acclimatize and successfully overwinter.

Azaleas growing in open ground have a shallow root system. Therefore, a deep planting hole for shrubs is not required, but the preparation of a loose fertile substrate is necessary:

1. The depth of the pit may not exceed 50 cm.
2. In this case, the width should be 20–30 cm greater than the depth.

A thick drainage layer is made at the bottom from fragments of red brick, large expanded clay and sand. You cannot use limestone chips, since this mineral gradually changes the acidity of the soil and can cause the withering and death of an already established garden azalea bush.

The soil removed from the planting hole is cleared of turf, and then the following is added to it:

• peat cleared of coarse inclusions;
• humus;
• sand and other components necessary to ensure the looseness and structure of the substrate.

Before immersing a seedling in a hole, pour it in the center onto the drainage layer. a large number of prepared soil. The roots of the bush are carefully laid out on it so that the root collar of the azalea remains above the soil level when backfilling. The soil around the plant is compacted and moistened. If the soil has settled, it is added, and the surface is generously mulched on top.

If you are going to plant a garden azalea purchased from a nursery or store, it root system should first be revived by dipping in water or watering abundantly before planting.

Seedlings with a closed root system are easier to transplant; their roots do not need to be cleared of the existing soil, but it is worth checking the health of the roots and removing damaged ones.

Caring for garden azaleas after planting

Throughout the growing season, garden azaleas need abundant watering. The soil should be moistened immediately after the surface layer has dried. Rain or settled water is best suited for irrigation. To maintain increased soil acidity, citric or other food acid is added to the irrigation moisture once a month.

On hot days, except when azaleas are blooming, shrubs can be sprayed warm water, so that it will be a good support for the decorativeness of the bush and prevention from insect pests and fungi.

At the end of summer, watering is reduced, provoking the completion of the growth of the bush and improving its preparation for winter. For the same purpose, the application of fertilizing is stopped, especially if granular products of prolonged action were used for this.

Caring for garden azaleas includes mulching, which is designed to protect the plant's roots from drying out in the summer and from frost in the winter. Under such cover, weeds develop worse and more slowly, and moisture is conserved. A layer of mulch from pine needles, steamed sawdust or shavings, chopped grass clippings or even small expanded clay is replenished and restored as necessary, but does not cover the root collar of the plant.

It is impossible to maintain a flowering shrub with watering alone. Therefore, azalea is fed at least three times a year.

• In early spring, plants are watered with infusion of mullein or humus.
• Before the azalea begins to bloom, in addition to nitrogen, the shrub needs potassium and phosphorus in equal quantities.
• After most of the inflorescences have withered, the plant is watered with a mixture of phosphorus and potash fertilizers in a ratio of 1:2.

Garden azalea plants have an extremely negative attitude towards adding fertilizers to the soil, which contain chlorine and lime. You should not use ash, which is popular among gardeners, for fertilizing.

When caring for azaleas, watering and fertilizing are carried out not at the root, but at a distance of at least 20 cm from the center of the bush. This technique allows you to bring moisture and nutrients to the most active areas of the surface root system of this garden crop.

Pruning azaleas when growing in the garden

The plant begins spring with already formed flower buds, so after wintering only sanitary pruning azaleas in the garden, when dry and diseased shoots are removed.

The formation of the bush is carried out after the flowers have withered. During the procedure, both dry flower stalks and excessively elongated branches are cut off. If you do not pay attention to pruning azaleas for several years, the bush gradually becomes overgrown, the shoots block the access to light and air, which leads to the development of diseases and insect pests.

When pruning azaleas, it is important to remember that the buds are formed on annual shoots, so this year’s growth is not touched. After pruning, large stumps are treated with garden varnish.

Young shrubs up to 3 years of age do not need to be formed, only removing dead shoots.

Winter care for azaleas

Future flowering depends on how azaleas are cared for throughout the year, as well as how the plant overwinters. Certain varieties of garden rhododendrons can survive Russian winters without shelter, but in this case it will not be possible to guarantee the health of the bush:

1. The flower buds at the ends of the shoots are the first to suffer from the cold.
2. With a lack of snow, sometimes not only young branches freeze, but also the root system.

To protect the plants, preparations for winter begin in the fall with abundant watering of the soil under the garden azalea bushes. Then the root circle is covered with an additional layer of mulch, for which pine needles, peat or fallen leaves are taken. The layer of such protection for small plants can be 5–10 cm; up to 30 cm of insulation is poured under tall bushes.

Branches of deciduous azalea varieties growing in open ground:

• gently bend it to the ground;
• fixed with wire;
• cover with corrugated cardboard, special materials or another layer of spruce branches or peat.

It is not worth covering azaleas with film or other airtight materials, since there is a high risk of developing preliminium and rot of buds and young shoots.

Evergreen azalea plants are covered with a pre-made frame so as not to damage the shoots and future buds. The plant should not be cramped inside the shelter. And it is necessary to insulate the structure with roofing felt or non-woven materials only in established cool weather; if this is done on warm days, the loss of some flowers will not be avoided next spring.

Caring for azaleas in winter involves protecting plants from wind and moisture condensing during thaws. If the winter has little snow, the bushes need to be further protected by creating man-made snowdrifts at their base. During the rainy season, azaleas are loosely covered with film, leaving the possibility of moisture loss.

With the onset of spring, the shelter is removed only after the snow cover has melted and positive average daily temperatures have established.

During acclimatization and care of azaleas, constant care is taken to avoid sunburn of delicate tissues and wilting of the plant lacking nutrition and moisture.

Garden azaleas are a rewarding crop. Shrubs always respond with lush flowering and growth to compliance with agricultural techniques for growing azaleas in the garden and competent, regular care. No matter where the gardener lives, today you can find many amazing varieties of azaleas that have different colors and different flowering times.

Video about rhododendrons - azaleas in the garden

Just a couple of decades ago, garden azalea was considered a greenhouse or indoor plant, but already in the last decade in our country, gardeners began to grow the plant in open ground. The blooming bush azalea is incomparable - the branches are abundantly covered with delicate buds of simple or double shape and various shades.

Where does the garden bush azalea come from?

In addition to white, pink, yellow, purple, red or orange, there are varieties with multi-colored buds, which makes the plants even more decorative. Lush flowering subject to the rules of agricultural technology lasts from 3 to 10 weeks.

The basis of hybrid varieties that can withstand the moderate winters of Central Russia in open ground is Japanese, which is considered the national plant in its homeland. The ancestors of greenhouse varieties are heat-loving Indian azaleas.

Selecting a location: open ground in the Moscow region and other regions

Planting a seedling begins with choosing a suitable place in the garden. For those who are interested in planting plants in the Moscow region, there are no fundamental differences. An azalea will not grow in a randomly selected area.

The choice of location depends not so much on the region, but on the microclimate

When transferring a seedling to open ground, the following must be observed: several conditions:

• Requires a large amount of light without direct sunlight. Otherwise, the grown bush will begin to shed its buds, the flowering period will be significantly shortened, and the leaves will wrinkle.
• Evergreen species are recommended to be planted in areas with diffused light or partial shade.
• Deciduous varieties grow well in bright areas under the shade of large trees, provided that the roots of the plants do not interfere with each other. Best suited as companions yews, thujas, spruces, oaks, larches. Alder, poplar, and maple are not suitable for neighbors - their superficial root system takes away moisture and nutrition.
• When planting near buildings, any side except the south is suitable.

It is worth giving preference to areas with flat terrain, where water does not stagnate in the spring after the snow melts.

• Protection from gusts of wind and drafts is required; they cannot be planted on the corner of buildings or between buildings.
• Proximity to a natural or artificial body of water is ideal - moist air will prolong flowering and preserves the freshness of the foliage.

When growing garden azaleas for normal development the air temperature during the growing season should be +20+25°C - almost all regions of central Russia meet these conditions. In winter, garden varieties can withstand temperatures down to -27°C; in severe frosts, the plant will die.

Too cold winters, typical for the north of Russia, are detrimental to the bush

Group plantings look most decorative. When located in the garden, do not plant evergreen and deciduous species nearby, under tall varieties Allocate the center of the site, for short people - the near edge.

Select plants based on the color of the buds: the best combinations are yellow and orange, purple and white, pink and purple, red and white.

Soil and planting

Azaleas will grow well only on loose and acidic soils that contain sand, peat and coniferous soil. Soil acidity is necessary at all times maintain at 4.0-4.5. Early spring, before the sap begins to flow, or the beginning of autumn is suitable for planting a seedling - the bush will have time to take root in a new place before the onset of cold weather and will normally withstand the winter cold.

Garden azaleas have a shallow root system, so they do not need a deep planting hole. However, planting seedlings has some nuances:

• Dig a planting hole 0.5 m deep and 0.6-0.7 m in diameter.
• Place a 15-20 cm drainage layer of sand, expanded clay and broken brick at the bottom of the hole - it will acidify the soil. It is undesirable to use calcareous materials (crushed stone, crumbs), otherwise alkalization of the soil will inevitably occur, which azaleas cannot tolerate.
• Mix the soil removed from the hole with peat, humus and coarse sand. to increase looseness and soil permeability.
• Pour a heap of soil mixture onto the drainage layer and place the seedling on the heap, controlling the level of the root collar - after planting it should be slightly above the soil level.
• Carefully fill the root ball with soil, compact the soil around the seedling, add soil if necessary and water.
• Mulch the soil around the bush with moss, peat, pine needles or crushed bark - mulch will prevent the growth of weeds and retain life-giving moisture in the soil.

Plants can be planted in containers throughout the summer, when removing from the container, the soil should not be shaken off from the roots. Seedlings purchased from nurseries or garden centers should be watered generously before planting.

You can soak the root ball in water for a while until air bubbles stop appearing from the water.

Buy seedlings in a large container, the dimensions of which correspond to the overall size of the plant - roots do not develop well in small containers.

When purchasing, check the agrotechnical characteristics and check the viability of the bush: its branches should be elastic, healthy and strong. Sick and weak seedling it won't be possible to go out.

Mulching and fertilizing

To mulch bushes, crushed pine bark, fallen pine needles, steamed sawdust, fine expanded clay, peat or tree foliage (except chestnut and maple) are used.

Mulching retains moisture in the soil, prevents weeds from growing, and protects surface roots from overheating in summer and from freezing in winter. When mulching, the root collar should be free.

It won’t happen without feeding abundant flowering, and for normal growth of azaleas need extra food. There should be several feedings during the summer:

• In the spring, add a solution of mullein (humus) in a ratio of 1:10.
• At the moment of bud formation, a second feeding is carried out with mullein with the addition of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
• When the last buds fall off, carry out the third feeding with phosphorus and potassium in a 1:2 ratio.
• Fertilizing is applied at a distance of 0.2-0.3 m from the center of the bush.

When making complex fertilizers it is necessary to ensure that they do not contain chlorine and lime. You should also not use wood ash - it changes the acidity of the soil, reducing it.

Watering, weeding and spraying

Watering azaleas throughout summer season should be plentiful. A slightly dry soil surface is a signal for further moistening. Water the plant with rain or settled water, adding once a month to the irrigation water. citric acid(1 tsp per 2 liters of water) – it increases the acidity of the soil.

As with any other plant, it is strongly recommended to consider seasonality when watering the bush

With the beginning of autumn, watering is reduced so as not to provoke the growth of new shoots, which will not have time to ripen before winter and will freeze out. Before the start of winter, water the plant abundantly - moisture-recharging watering will allow it to withstand frosts with minimal losses.

In addition to watering, azalea loves spraying– moist air is favorable for the decorative appearance of the plant and is prophylactic against insect pests. However, during flowering, this procedure must be abandoned, otherwise spots will form on the flowers, spoiling the appearance of the plant.

Don’t forget about weeding – you need to weed the area several times during the entire growing season. You just need to do this carefully so as not to damage the surface roots of the azalea.

Transfer

Transplantation is carried out according to the same principle as planting. The best time to replant a plant is early spring. Considering that azalea considered a capricious plant, it is recommended to choose according to lunar calendar the right day.

The planting depth must be maintained at the same level.

Trimming

Pruning bushes is carried out in three stages:

1. In the spring, sanitary pruning is done, cutting out diseased and dry shoots. The rest of the shoots are left untouched - flower buds have been laid on them since the fall.
2. Regularly during flowering remove faded flowers.
3. After the last buds have withered, formative pruning is carried out - dry flower stalks are removed, shoots that are too long are shortened, and branches that thicken the bush are cut out.

The remaining shoots are shortened by no more than 1/3 of the total length - next year the azalea will branch out and take on the appearance of a lush and profusely flowering plant.

When pruning a bush, keep in mind that the types of pruning depend on the time of year.

For any pruning, the cut areas are covered with garden varnish or any drying oil-based paint. Work is carried out wearing protective gloves to avoid skin irritation– the sap of the plant is poisonous.

Azalea is a slow-growing plant species and reaches maturity at 3-4 years of age. Therefore, young bushes are not formed, but only undergo sanitary pruning.

Diseases and pests

Garden plants can suffer from fungal infections and insects. The most common diseases are rust, leaf spot, and rot. In the fight against diseases, spraying with fungicides or copper sulfate is effective.

Lightening leaves on azalea bushes, the color of which becomes yellow over time, indicate a characteristic disease - calcareous chlorosis. It is treated by applying solutions under the bush that help increase the acidity of the soil:

• table or apple cider vinegar – 100 ml per 10 liters of water;
• citric or oxalic acid – 2 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water.

For watering 1 sq. m. you will need 10 liters of solution. Peat (1.5 kg per 1 sq. m) is suitable as a soil acidifier.

No flowering

Often gardeners are faced with the fact that garden azalea doesn't bloom. There are several reasons for this:

• alkaline or neutral soil;
• lack of diffused light;
• moisture deficiency;
• high air temperature;
• insufficient nutrition or, conversely, frequent and abundant feeding.

If all requirements for planting and caring for the plant are met, it will delight you with lush and long-lasting flowering.

Reproduction: growing outdoor Azaleas from seeds and more

Garden azaleas are propagated by seeds, cuttings, layering and dividing the bush.

The choice of propagation method depends on how quickly you want to get results

The easiest way is to lean the side shoot against the ground, secure it with wire, sprinkle it with earth and water it regularly. Over time it will take root, and next spring the young bush can be separated from the mother plant.

Divide the bushes with a vein before the sap begins to flow. Using a sharp object (spatula, spatula), a part of the bush is separated and transplanted to a new location. In this case, the mother bush should have a well-developed root system and several healthy shoots.

Propagation by cuttings takes from 1.5 to 4 months from the moment of cutting the cuttings to their rooting. To achieve results, you need to follow the recommendations experienced gardeners:

• Cut apical cuttings 10 cm long. Apical bud and lower leaves delete, leaving 2-3 healthy leaves.
• Treat the sections with a growth stimulator. Deepen the cuttings 2-3 cm into individual pots or cups filled with a mixture of peat and sand. Moisten the soil.
• Cover the cups plastic bottles with the bottom cut off to create mini-greenhouses. A week after planting the cuttings, begin ventilation by unscrewing the lids or removing the caps for 10-15 minutes every day.

Creating micro-greenhouses helps maintain the desired temperature

• For successful rooting, maintain the air temperature at +20+24°C and water as needed, remembering to drain excess water from the trays.
• After rooting, transplant the cuttings into a container with fertile, acidic soil.
• Plant out in a year for a permanent place in the garden.

Propagation by cuttings is a troublesome and time-consuming process, but it has its advantages. If your dacha neighbor takes cuttings from his bushes, you will immediately see which plant will bloom in your garden in 3-4 years.

The seed propagation method is practically not used by gardeners - with this method of propagation you will have to wait a long time for the first flowering.

Those who like to grow plants from seeds can try to germinate them in an improvised daily ventilated greenhouse, keeping an eye on for substrate moisture.

Preparing for winter and spring care

Next year's buds begin to form in the fall. Therefore, it is important to preserve the plant during winter and help it survive the frosts.

Despite the relatively good winter hardiness of many varieties, it is safer to cover the shrub for the winter to ensure that flower buds, young branches and surface roots are kept in a healthy state:

• After moisture-recharging irrigation, the ground under the bushes is mulched to a thickness of 5-10 cm. Under tall azaleas, the mulch layer can be increased to 30 cm.
• Branches of deciduous varieties are carefully bent to the ground and secured with wire. They make a multi-layer shelter from corrugated cardboard, covering materials and spruce branches.

When organizing winter protection, do not use polyethylene and other airtight materials, otherwise the buds and shoots will smear and rot.

• For evergreen varieties, a frame is first made, which is installed before the ground freezes; the covering material is pulled over the frame only with the onset of stable cold weather.

Do not use materials that do not allow air to pass through, otherwise the bush will rot

The frame is insulated with durable materials or roofing felt so that a distance of 20-25 cm is maintained between the walls of the shelter and the bushes. To drain moisture under the structure lay flexible hose, the other end of which is brought out.

With the onset of the first days of spring, there is no need to rush to open the azalea bushes; you need to wait until the snow cover in the area completely melts. Plants that have become weaned from sunlight over the winter should be gradually accustomed to the spring rays, opening them briefly in the morning and gradually increasing the time.

Plants tolerate winter differently and need to be prepared accordingly. For example, there is a procedure for how to prepare gloxinia for wintering and the dormant period.

The first time it is better to open the bushes on a cloudy day.

Azalea is a demanding outdoor plant. She needs to create certain conditions under which she will feel good. In response, the shrub will thank you with a huge number of flowers, pleasing for a long time. When simultaneously planting several varieties of azaleas with different terms flowering, you can enjoy a riot of colors throughout the summer.

If you think that azaleas are exclusively indoor or greenhouse flowers, then you are deeply mistaken. It turns out that there are winter-hardy varieties of this beautiful plant that can easily withstand sub-zero temperatures down to –27 °C. So that you can figure out exactly what types of azaleas you can grow in your garden, we will try to tell you in detail about planting and caring for this magnificent bush.

Planting an azalea

Azalea is a capricious and demanding plant. All growing conditions are important for it: light, temperature, soil composition. There should be as much light as possible, but azalea does not tolerate direct sunlight - when it hits the plant, it weakens, the leaves wrinkle, and the buds fall off. Therefore, it is necessary to choose places with partial shade or diffused light. This applies to evergreen azalea species (for example, Japanese azalea). Deciduous azaleas prefer a bright and at the same time protected place under trees.

The next important factor when growing azaleas is correct selection soil cover. You can select the soil mixture yourself (loose and acidic soil containing coniferous soil, sand and peat is required) or purchase soil for azaleas in stores. The root system of azaleas is superficial, so if necessary, it is enough to replace 40-50 cm of the top fertile soil layer.

Container seedlings can be planted throughout the summer season; in other cases, planting is carried out in the spring. The seedling is planted in a hole 70 cm wide and 50 cm deep. Before adding fertile soil, we arrange drainage in the depths of the hole from coarse sand and broken bricks. The thickness of the drainage layer should be approximately 15-20 cm; if you plant an azalea in a deeper hole, then approximately 30-40 cm. It is strictly not recommended to use crushed limestone as drainage - it makes the soil less acidic and alkalizes it. After planting, water the seedling abundantly and be sure to mulch the soil around it, using fallen pine needles, moss, crushed bark and peat as mulch. Such protection will retain moisture in the soil, hinder the growth of weeds and protect the azalea roots from winter frosts.

Azalea propagation

Azaleas are propagated by seeds and cuttings. The last method is faster, so we’ll consider it.

Propagation of azaleas by cuttings For this method of propagation, azalea apical cuttings are chosen. They take root best in the spring - in March and April. We cut cuttings from the mother plant up to 10 cm long, while the apical bud and undeveloped leaves must be removed. We also remove the lower leaves, the main thing is that there are 2-3 intact and healthy leaves left on the cutting. We make the lower cut of the cutting with a sharp pruner at an angle (about 45°) and sprinkle it with a stimulant (to speed up root formation). This is necessary to increase the number of surviving cuttings. Then we place the cuttings in small containers with a drain hole (for this purpose you can use disposable cups with a capacity of 10 ml), filled with high-moor peat and spray them. The cut of the cutting should be in the soil at a depth of 2-3 cm. After placing the cuttings in containers, cover them with film (the film should not touch the cuttings).

Rooting of cuttings depends on a number of factors. Firstly, on temperature. Optimal temperature air temperature for the development of the root system will be 18 °C, for soil - 22 °C. To maintain optimal temperature conditions, it is advisable to place the containers on heating from below. In the future (after a week), constant ventilation of the cuttings will be required. The high-moor peat that we used as a substrate must be moist. The cuttings will need to be looked after for about 1.5 months, then they will take root and can be transplanted into the soil.

Azalea care

Caring for a garden azalea involves timely pruning, proper watering, feeding and covering for the winter.

Trimming Pruning is carried out after the plant has flowered, after about 2 weeks. When pruning, we completely remove wilted shoots or shoots that are heavily thickening the bush, and trim other shoots by about a third of their length. To ensure that the garden azalea bush remains lush and branches well next year, we prune along the entire periphery of the bush. Cover the cut areas with drying oil paint or garden varnish. To plant more flower buds, it is also advisable to remove completely wilted flowers from the bush.

Watering Garden azaleas love abundant watering and spraying, because if you dry them out, you are unlikely to save them. But it is important not to overfill them! For example, a plant needs abundant watering when it blooms. At the same time, at the moment of flowering, the azalea does not need to be sprayed so that it beautiful flowers did not become stained. In autumn, when the air is humid, watering should be limited, and before the onset of winter, watering should be done only in stable and dry weather.

Top dressing Young garden azalea seedlings are fed with mullein solution in the spring, and after flowering with a phosphorus-potassium fertilizer mixture (in a ratio of 1:2). Adult bushes are fed in early spring with a mixture of long-acting complex fertilizers. When fertilizing, fertilizers are applied not at the root of the bush, but at a short distance from it (about 20 cm from the center of the bush). We would like to draw your attention to the fact that garden azaleas, like other rhododendrons, are not suitable for mixtures of fertilizers containing lime and chlorine.

Covering for the winter Garden azalea really does not like strong winter sun, which can easily destroy the roots of this plant. Therefore, any winter-hardy types of azaleas must be watered abundantly at the end of autumn, until the ground is completely frozen. Then evergreen varieties are covered with coniferous spruce branches; low-growing varieties can also be mulched with oak leaves. We bend branches of deciduous species as close to the ground as possible so that during winter they are covered with snow.

Types and varieties of azaleas

We have open garden plots Japanese azalea (Azalea japonica) and deciduous azalea take root well - they can withstand winter frosts down to –27 °C. Most varieties of Indian azalea are indoor plants; they do not tolerate our frosts outdoors. Here are the most popular types of azaleas, as well as their photos:

Azalea japonica Marushka The bushes grow slowly, growing up to 50 cm in height. It blooms in May, the inflorescences on the plant are juicy red. It is advisable to plant in semi-dark places, with acidic and moderately moist soil.

Azalea japonica Peticout Like the Marushka variety, the plant grows up to 50 cm in height and blooms in May. Flowers in inflorescences Pink colour. Without abundant watering, the leaves of the plant fall off.

Azalea japonica Ledikanense Another variety of Japanese azalea. Growing conditions and appearance are similar to the previous two varieties. The flowers on the plant are purple.

Azalea japonica Schneeperle This variety differs from previous varieties in its white inflorescences. The bush is incredibly beautiful in May, at the time of flowering.

Japanese azalea Geisha Orange Flower petals of this variety orange color, the bush really does not like dry soil.

Azalea deciduous large-flowered hybrid knapHill It grows up to 1.5 m in height, blooms for up to 2 months, at the time of flowering the plant is completely covered with flowers.

I would also like to suggest how to choose the right winter-hardy azalea variety when purchasing. In specialized stores, winter-hardy varieties are usually sold in the spring, and indoor varieties (such as Indian azalea) all year round. Also garden varieties They look like small bushes, 20-25 cm high, with a small number of leaves and barely noticeable flower buds. Indoor azaleas They go on sale already flowering, with beautiful large leaves, while the plant can reach a height of only 10 cm.

According to modern classification, garden azalea is called rhododendron. This family includes a large number of species, distinguished by their beauty and lush flowering. All these varieties may have significant differences among themselves:

1. Shrubs can be deciduous or evergreen.
2. Be between half a meter and three meters in height.
3. Vary in flowering time.

Garden azalea grows in temperate climates. Some varieties of rhododendron can only grow in cold regions. The height of the plant and the diameter of the calyx of a garden azalea can vary significantly.

A classic garden azalea looks like this:

1. The shoots of the plant are very tender and fragile and covered with scales. Such branches are very easily subject to mechanical damage and require special care.
2. Japanese azalea sprouts are covered with light, thin bark.
3. The leaves of the plant traditionally have an oval shape. If we are talking about hybrid varieties, the leaf may be round or carved.
4. Garden azaleas grow both in groups and as individual shrubs.
5. Inflorescences can be monochromatic or multi-colored. Flowers can be simple, fringed or double.

Conditions for growing garden azaleas - choosing a planting site

The main condition for successful breeding of this decorative garden shrub – right choice landing places. Should not be used on bushes exposed to direct sunlight. It is best to choose a shaded area in your garden. However, the azalea will also be uncomfortable in the dense shade. The plant needs diffused sunlight.

The optimal place to plant garden azaleas is on the north side of the house. In such a place, the plant will be illuminated by the sun in the morning and afternoon.

When choosing a place to plant Japanese azaleas, you should keep in mind that different varieties need different degrees of shading. An evergreen plant requires constant diffused lighting. Deciduous varieties feel very comfortable in the shade of trees when the sun's rays break through the crowns.

The proximity to other plants plays a significant role. Garden azalea is best adjacent to larch and oak. It is not recommended to plant shrubs next to maple trees., poplar, linden - the roots of these trees go shallow into the ground and will take moisture from the rhododendron. If it is not possible to place the plants far from each other, you can isolate the roots using a waterproof film or roofing felt.

It is very important to protect the rhododendron from wind and drafts. You should not plant shrubs on the corner of a building or in windy areas between buildings.

A good solution would be a site near a natural or artificial reservoir - in such places the air always has sufficient humidity. However, the site should not be allowed to flood during the spring snowmelt.

How to plant an azalea

It is best to choose the variety for planting based on the characteristics of your garden plot.

Purchasing a seedling, you need to make sure that the plant is well rooted to the soil. To do this, you can gently pull the base - a healthy seedling will pull out of the pot along with the earthen lump.

It is also necessary to properly prepare the soil before planting in the ground. To do this, dig a hole 50 cm deep and 70–80 cm in diameter. Drainage is poured into the bottom with a layer of 20 cm. You can use broken bricks with sand. You should not use lime compounds as drainage - they can excessively alkalize the soil.

The purchased plant is removed from the container and placed in a hole along with a lump of earth. The roots should be thoroughly moistened first. If the soil in the container is dry, the earthen ball should be immersed in water and wait until the bubbles stop.

The plant is placed in the hole so that the top of the earthen ball is at the level of the top edge of the hole. The remaining space is covered with soil. The surface is slightly compacted.

Caring for a plant in open ground

The rules for caring for rhododendron in open ground at a summer cottage are as follows:

Diseases and pests

Azalea in the garden can be affected by the following diseases:

To prevent diseases, rhododendron needs to be treated with Hom or Oxyx. These drugs are used before flowering begins. At the end of the flowering period, foundationol is applied.

Very often, novice gardeners are faced with the question of why azaleas do not bloom. Most likely, this is due to a violation of the rules of care - the plant lacks sunlight or moisture in the garden. Perhaps the air temperature is too high for the rhododendron.

Wintering and replanting garden azaleas

In autumn, the plant produces flower buds. How the azalea will bloom directly depends on the quality of wintering. The plant must be prepared for winter in the most thorough manner. In autumn, before the soil freezes, the bush should be watered thoroughly.

In order for the plant to have time to prepare for winter, it should not be fertilized in the autumn.

Cover the root zone for the winter protective layer of peat, pine needles or foliage. For young plants, a layer of 5–7 cm will be enough. For mature tall shrubs, a layer of insulation of 20–30 cm will be required.

It is best to replant azaleas in the spring. If you did not have time to do this, you can replant the rhododendron immediately after flowering, but no later than September. Since flower buds are laid in autumn, active flowering cannot be expected the next year after transplantation.

In order for planting Japanese garden azalea to be successful, you need to listen to advice and provide proper care. The reward will be luxurious flower beds or tastefully decorated corners of the shady garden. Growing various types azaleas create the effect of a bright cloud hovering low above the ground. Or a marvelous oriental rug thrown carelessly on the grass.

What varieties are suitable for decorating the garden?

Why is azalea attractive? The bush blooms lushly, the shoots are so densely strewn with buds that the leaves are not visible. And they are good for the plant: dark green, velvety, miniature. In Japan, the cultivation of azalea bushes is practiced to produce hedges up to two meters high. Several types of shrubs are grown in our country; sizes vary depending on the variety. Flowerbeds can be decorated with specimens from 25 cm, and meter-tall giants can be planted along garden paths.

Advice! Before purchasing seedlings, you should study the basic rules for propagation. Garden azaleas will wither in the hot sun, and some varieties prefer bright light.

If the bushes are cared for at the proper level, then abundant flowering will not keep you waiting. Some azalea species begin producing buds as early as May. Flowering continues from 1.5 to 3 months before the onset of autumn cooling. Flowers vary in size and shape - they can be small and graceful, large and double. The colors of the blooming buds are varied:

• white with a cream tint;
• lilac;
• purple;
• rich pink;
• bright burgundy.

When buying seedlings, you need to pay attention to the frost resistance of the species. There are those that can only be grown in the south of the country. Fortunately, Japanese azalea has also been bred for mid-latitudes. This happened thanks to crossing with the northern rhododendron. The resulting plants tolerate even 25-degree frosts; planting and caring for them are not difficult.

Which breeding method should I choose?

A simple way is propagation by cuttings. Cuttings of about 8 cm are cut at an oblique angle and the bud is removed, as well as unblown leaves. A cut of a cutting with a pair of leaves is treated with a growth stimulator and planted in pots. To prevent root rotting, it is necessary to make enough drainage holes. The pots are covered with film and placed in a well-lit place at a temperature of 20-22°C.

Advice! The film should not come into contact with the seedling. Part of it will rot and spread over the entire surface. To do this, you should not forget about daily ventilation for an hour.

Rooting will occur in one month. The first sign that the Japanese beauty has grown roots and the seedlings have been properly cared for is the formation of new leaves. After another month, the young azalea is ready for planting in flower beds. The soil can be composed of the following components:

• leaf soil;
• coniferous land;
• calcined sand;
• peat.

Gardeners do not often use seed growing. Even rooted azalea cuttings bloom only in the 2-3rd year, and planting and waiting for adult plants from seed delays this process for an even longer period. Some azalea lovers divide the bush into two parts in the garden in the fall. It is cut in half with a knife and the cut-off areas are coated with garden varnish. This method is not popular due to the further shaping required.

What is required for a successful landing?

If there coniferous trees, which means you don’t have to decide on a place to plant your azaleas. In the shade of their branches in diffused light, caring for the bushes will be simplified. Under the bright sun, the Japanese guest begins to get sick - the leaves wrinkle and shoots stop forming. Garden azalea does not like strong gusts of wind and sudden changes in temperature. In late spring, growing and caring for seedlings in open ground begins. The holes should be made shallow (about 45 cm), but wide.

Advice! In order for the plant to bloom well, experts recommend laying a layer of drainage under the flowerbed. The top layer of soil is removed, and broken bricks are poured onto the bottom. The main thing is that it does not have the ability to leach the soil.

High-quality plant care is possible only when it grows in soil with a pH value below 4.7. Planting requires acidifying the soil with a solution of food acid (a pinch in a bucket of water). For lush flowering of azaleas in the spring, add organic fertilizers. When finishing planting in open ground, mulch the flower bed with the following materials:

• needles or bark of coniferous trees;
• peat;
• oak leaves;
• chopped straw.

Mulching is necessary to retain soil moisture and protect it from possible frost. Despite the fact that caring for azaleas requires abundant watering, the place for the flower bed should not be swampy. Root rot cannot be avoided. The final stage of planting in the garden will be watering the soil with settled tap water.

What do you need to know about care?

To prevent Japanese azalea from getting sick, it is necessary to properly care for it. The root system of the plant is located almost on the surface of the soil, so watering under the root will not work. Moisture should spread throughout the entire area. Watering should be done in the morning or evening after sunset.

Advice! Garden azalea responds well to spraying. You can give her a shower every day. The exception is the flowering period - the flowers may become covered with ugly brown spots.

Japanese azalea does not need constant feeding. In the spring, it is worth fertilizing the soil with a strong infusion of mullein. After flowering ends, caring for the shrub requires helping the weakened plant by applying complex fertilizer. It is important that it does not contain chlorine.

Cultivation required:

• Constantly remove dried flowers. This will serve as an excellent stimulation for the formation of new buds.
• Use pruning shears to cut dry branches, which will promote the establishment of new shoots.
• Regularly acidify the soil.
• Identify the presence of pests.

Advice! If the plant has stopped blooming and the leaves have lost their turgor, it means it is sick. From spider mites and thrips will be treated with an insecticide. If discolored areas appear on the leaves, it is worth acidifying the soil. Brown spots on buds and leaves indicate the development of putrefactive processes. In such cases, spraying and watering the soil with fungicides (Fundazol, Oksikhom) will be a salvation.

Caring for Japanese garden azalea involves autumn pruning. Long shoots are removed by a third, and dried branches are cut out. Gardeners lay out the shape of the bush and follow the rule - the more you cut, the more it will grow in the spring. The soil in the flowerbed is filled and laid on top:

• spruce branches;
• straw;
• peat.

Using a wire frame, the azalea branches are bent to the ground and also covered. The covering material must be breathable. If the winter has turned out to be a small amount of snow, then it is worth building a snowdrift yourself. In spring, the material is removed after above-zero temperatures have been established.

Despite the fact that Japanese azalea grows slowly, it quickly acquires new shoots. The bush increases in volume, begins to bloom and from a distance resembles a bright ball. If the care of the plant in the open ground was correct, then within a couple of years there will be a lot of balls scattered around the garden. What else does a florist need?

Experts do not consider azalea to be a capricious shrub. Easy to root, adores water procedures and requires replanting every three years. In addition, it is a perennial, meaning planting does not require autumn digging. And it won’t be difficult to acidify the soil for such a beauty.

Garden azalea is a perennial plant. Differs in slow growth. Flowering begins only in plants that are 4 years old. In this article you will learn about garden azaleas: planting and care in open ground behind it and activities for fertilizing and year-round protection.

Azalea can reach a height of up to 50 centimeters. Shrubs are unpretentious to temperature and therefore can grow in many regions of the country. There are certain varieties of azaleas that can withstand frosts down to -27 degrees. However, despite the fact that shrubs do not require special agricultural techniques, there are separate measures for caring for the plant.

Popular varieties

The varieties that are currently known were bred from two species:

• Indian azalea. A bushy plant that sheds its leaves. Azalea can grow up to 50 centimeters in height. The foliage on the surface of the bush is approximately 4 cm long and has reddish fibers. Leaf plate green in color, and light on the inside. The inflorescences of the culture are simple or double. The color of the inflorescence is varied: from snow-white to scarlet. Often you can find plants with two-color colors.
• Azalea japonica. This culture is evergreen, which can withstand frost in winter period. Japanese azalea bushes begin to bloom in May. Foliage Japanese garden azaleas large, glossy, average diameter - 5 centimeters. The inflorescence is funnel-shaped, multi-colored.

There are also other common varieties:

• Kermesina Rosa. Adult shrubs can reach a height of up to 80 centimeters. The width of the bush can reach up to 100 centimeters. Azalea flowers are bell-shaped, two-tone, bright pink and have burgundy splashes. The edging of the flower petals is lighter. Azalea blooms from about May to June.
• Esprinzessin. The culture can grow up to 30 centimeters in height. The crown diameter can reach 50 centimeters. Begins to bloom in May. Azalea flowers have a white tint and a pink center.
• Adonis. The plant begins to bloom in May. The foliage has an ellipsoidal shape, the surface is glossy. The growth of the crop is slow. Adonis's flowers are snow-white and collected in inflorescences. Adonis is considered to be a perennial plant. The average age can reach 10 years.
• Geisha Orange. Shrubs can reach a height of 50 centimeters and a width of up to 70 centimeters. The flowers of the variety are orange, bell-shaped, and are located at the tips of the shoots. The flowering period is from May to June, the average duration is 21 days. The crown of the plant is formed from many short shoots that are covered with dark leathery foliage.

Watch the video! Varieties of Azaleas. Photos and descriptions of varieties

Selecting a location

Garden azalea is a winter-hardy plant, which means that it can be grown in almost all regions of the country, both in the Urals, in the Moscow region, and in Siberia.

Choosing the right landing site - important point. The microclimate of the region should also be taken into account. Thus, we can identify a number of conditions that must be met in order for a plant seedling to take root in open ground:

• Direct sunlight should not fall on the plant, but at the same time, the bushes need to receive a sufficient amount of light. If this condition is neglected, the number of buds will begin to decline and the foliage will become wrinkled.
• The optimal temperature for comfortable growth of azaleas is approximately +20+25 °C. This temperature is typical for almost all regions of the middle zone.

Important! In winter, plants can withstand frosts down to -27 °C. However, if the temperature is below -27 °C, the azalea may freeze.

Soil requirements and planting

The culture feels comfortable in acidic and loose soils. The soil should contain the following components:

• sand;
• coniferous land;
• peat.

Soil acidity should be between 4.0 and 4.5.

Plants should be planted in early spring or autumn. If you plan to plant an azalea in the spring, this should happen before sap flow begins.

Planting garden azalea in the fall, it should be carried out in early September so that the seedling can take root before the onset of frost.

The azalea bush has a shallow root system. Therefore, there is no need to make a deep hole. However, there are a number of conditions:

Advice! Seedlings that grow in a container can be planted in the summer. When removing the seedling from the container, you must ensure that the soil from the roots does not crumble.

Provided that the crop was purchased from a nursery or garden center, the bush must be watered before planting. It is also recommended to immerse the root ball in water for a while until air bubbles appear.

Mulching

For mulching you can use:

• crushed pine bark;
• fallen pine needles;
• fine expanded clay;
• Fallen leaves are often used, except for chestnut and maple crops;
• Steamed sawdust is good for mulching.

Important! Mulch should not cover the root collar.

Fertilizing

It is necessary to apply fertilizing, this will allow you to get abundant flowering and ensure healthy growth of the shrub. Fertilizer must be applied several times during the summer:

• The humus solution must be applied in the spring. Dilute the solution in a ratio of 1 to 10.
• Subsequent fertilizer is applied before buds begin to form. Preparations based on potassium and phosphorus are also added to the fertilizing composition: 50 g of nitroammophoska or nitrophoska.
• As soon as the last flowers fall, the plant must be fertilized with phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 1 to 2 (40 g superphosphate, 80 g potassium sulfate).

Fertilizer is applied at a distance of 30 centimeters from the central part of the bush.

Watering, weeding, spraying

Azalea requires abundant watering throughout summer period. 5 liters per bush is enough. If the soil surface becomes dry, moistening should be repeated.

• 1 teaspoon of citric acid;
• for 2 liters of water.

This measure will increase the acidity of the soil. With the onset of autumn, the frequency of watering should decrease. This procedure is necessary to prevent new shoots from forming. Since they will not have time to get stronger before frost. In order for azalea to survive frosts until the beginning of December, it is necessary to water the bushes abundantly.

Important! When the bush is flowering, you cannot spray the plant, as this can lead to the formation of unsightly spots on the buds.

You need to weed the azalea several times while it lasts. growing season. This procedure should be carried out with extreme caution to eliminate the risk of injury to the root system.

Transfer

Plant transplantation occurs according to the same scheme as planting. Transplantation is carried out in early spring. Around the bush that has been replanted, it is necessary to form a side of moss or soil so that the roots are cleared from frost.

Trimming

Azalea needs proper pruning. This procedure is carried out in several stages:

• In the spring, you need to do sanitary pruning; all dry and diseased branches are removed. All other shoots should not be removed, since flower buds have been formed since the autumn period.
• During the entire flowering period, it is necessary to remove all faded flowers.
• After the last buds have withered, you need to do some formative pruning. All dry buds are removed, and long shoots and branches are shortened, which lead to thickening of the bush.
• All other shoots should be cut back by about a third, but no more. If you follow this technology, then next year the bush will bloom luxuriantly.

Important! It is necessary to cover the cuts with garden varnish. Often, drying oil-based paint can be used to process cuts, but be sure to use gloves because azalea sap is poisonous.

The culture reaches maturity at the 4th year of life. That is why only sanitary pruning should be carried out.

Watch the video! Non-deciduous Rhododendron or outdoor Azalea

Pests and diseases

Garden azalea is affected by a fungal infection. And also dangerous for culture:

• leaf spot;
• rot;
• rust.

You can fight diseases with copper sulfate and fungicides. For prevention, you can spray the bushes once a season with Oxyx (40 g per 10 liters of water).

Fundazol is applied after flowering has ended (2% solution).

In addition, the following have a negative impact on the growth and development of culture:

• spider mite;
• whitefly;
• black thrips,
• mealybug.

• Actellicom (2 ml in 1 liter of water);
• Karbofos (70 g per 10 liters of water).

Infection with lime chlorosis appears as light areas on the foliage, which then turn yellow. The plant can be cured using a special solution that is applied under the soil. This solution will increase the acidity of the soil. You can use table and apple cider vinegar.

You can prepare a solution based on:

• 100 ml apple or table vinegar 9%;
• 10 liters of water.

If the azalea does not bloom

The reason for the lack of buds may be:

• insufficient humidity;
• hot air;
• alkaline soil;
• lack of nutrition;
• lack of lighting.

Reproduction

A perennial plant can reproduce:

• cuttings;
• layering;
• seeds;
• by dividing the bush.

The choice of method should depend on how quickly the summer resident wants to get the result.

By layering

The easiest way is to bend the side shoot to the ground, secure it with wire and sprinkle it with soil. A fixed shoot needs watering. Once the plant is established, it can be separated from the main plant.

Dividing bushes

The procedure should be carried out in the spring. To do this, you will need a spatula or other sharp object with which to separate part of the bush.

Propagation by cuttings

This procedure lasts approximately 1.5-4 months from the moment the cuttings are cut until they are completely rooted.

• A cutting 10 cm long is separated from the top of the bush. The lower leaves and apical bud are removed. You need to leave 2-3 leaves on the cuttings.
• The cut areas must be treated with a growth stimulator.
• Deepen the cuttings 3 cm into a container or pot. Pre-fill the containers with a mixture of peat or sand. Don't forget about moistening the soil.
• Containers should be covered with plastic bottles with the bottom cut off. After 7 days, you need to ventilate the plants; to do this, remove the covers for 15 minutes.
• In order for the plants to take root well, the temperature must be maintained at +20 C.
• Water as needed. Excess water from the pan should be removed regularly.
• As soon as the cuttings take root, they must be transplanted into containers with fertile soil.
• After a year, the seedlings should be planted in a permanent place.

Important! This propagation method is quite complex, so beginners are advised to look photo and video instructions to avoid mistakes.

Summer residents do not often use seeds for propagation. Since flowering does not come soon.

Preparing for cold weather and spring care

In order to have many buds next year, it is necessary to preserve the plant during the winter. To do this, you need to protect the azalea from frost as much as possible.

To preserve young shoots and buds, other rules must be followed:

• Make mulching (layer 5-10 centimeters). If we are talking about tall crops, then the mulch layer should be increased to 30 cm.
• Bend the shoots of deciduous varieties of crops to the soil and secure with wire. Next, make a multi-layer shelter from covering material, corrugated cardboard or spruce branches.
• Polyethylene cannot be used. This also applies to other materials that do not allow air to pass through well.
• For evergreen varieties, it is recommended to make a frame. The structure is installed before the soil begins to freeze. The covering material is pulled up as soon as frosts begin.

In order to insulate the frame, you can use, for example, roofing felt.

In spring, you should not immediately remove the covering material from the bushes. You should wait until all the snow has melted.

During the winter, plants get used to sunlight, so they must gradually get used to the lighting. It is necessary to open the azalea for a short time, in the morning, and then increase the duration of sunbathing.

Conclusion

Planting and caring for garden azaleas is not difficult for experienced gardeners, so flowering shrubs can decorate country cottage area. The agricultural technology behind the crop is simple, so even beginners can grow it.

Watch the video! Azalea: how to grow and care

In contact with

Just a couple of decades ago, garden azalea was considered a greenhouse or indoor plant, but in the last decade in our country, gardeners began to grow the plant in open ground. The blooming bush azalea is incomparable - the branches are abundantly covered with delicate buds of simple or double shape and various shades.

In addition to white, pink, yellow, purple, red or orange, there are varieties with multi-colored buds, which makes the plants even more decorative. Lush flowering while following the rules of agricultural technology lasts from 3 to 10 weeks.

The basis of hybrid varieties that can withstand the moderate winters of Central Russia in open ground is Japanese, which is considered the national plant in its homeland. The ancestors of greenhouse varieties are heat-loving Indian azaleas.

Selecting a location: open ground in the Moscow region and other regions

Planting a seedling begins with choosing a suitable place in the garden. For those who are interested in planting plants in the Moscow region, there are no fundamental differences. An azalea will not grow in a randomly selected area.

The choice of location depends not so much on the region, but on the microclimate

When transferring a seedling to open ground, the following must be observed: several conditions:

• Requires a large amount of light without direct sunlight. Otherwise, the grown bush will begin to shed its buds, the flowering period will be significantly shortened, and the leaves will wrinkle.
• Evergreen species are recommended to be planted in areas with diffused light or partial shade.
• Deciduous varieties grow well in bright areas under the shade of large trees, provided that the roots of the plants do not interfere with each other. Best suited as companions yews, thujas, spruces, oaks, larches. Alder, poplar, and maple are not suitable for neighbors - their superficial root system takes away moisture and nutrition.
• When planting near buildings, any side except the south is suitable.

It is worth giving preference to areas with flat terrain, where water does not stagnate in the spring after the snow melts.

• Protection from gusts of wind and drafts is required; they cannot be planted on the corner of buildings or between buildings.
• Proximity to a natural or artificial body of water is ideal - moist air will prolong flowering and preserves the freshness of the foliage.

When growing garden azaleas, for normal development, the air temperature during the growing season should be +20+25°C - almost all regions of central Russia meet these conditions. In winter, garden varieties can withstand temperatures down to -27°C; in severe frosts, the plant will die.

Too cold winters, typical for the north of Russia, are detrimental to the bush

Group plantings look most decorative. When located in the garden, do not plant evergreen and deciduous species nearby; allocate the center of the plot for tall varieties, and the near edge for low-growing varieties.

Select plants based on the color of the buds: the best combinations are yellow and orange, purple and white, pink and purple, red and white.

Soil and planting

Azaleas will grow well only on loose and acidic soils that contain sand, peat and coniferous soil. Soil acidity is necessary at all times maintain at 4.0-4.5. Early spring, before the sap begins to flow, or the beginning of autumn is suitable for planting a seedling - the bush will have time to take root in a new place before the onset of cold weather and will normally withstand the winter cold.

Garden azaleas have a shallow root system, so they do not need a deep planting hole. However, planting seedlings has some nuances:

• Dig a planting hole 0.5 m deep and 0.6-0.7 m in diameter.
• Place a 15-20 cm drainage layer of sand, expanded clay and broken brick at the bottom of the hole - it will acidify the soil. It is undesirable to use calcareous materials (crushed stone, crumbs), otherwise alkalization of the soil will inevitably occur, which azaleas cannot tolerate.
• Mix the soil removed from the hole with peat, humus and coarse sand. to increase looseness and soil permeability.
• Pour a heap of soil mixture onto the drainage layer and place the seedling on the heap, controlling the level of the root collar - after planting it should be slightly above the soil level.
• Carefully fill the root ball with soil, compact the soil around the seedling, add soil if necessary and water.
• Mulch the soil around the bush with moss, peat, pine needles or crushed bark - mulch will prevent the growth of weeds and retain life-giving moisture in the soil.

Plants can be planted in containers throughout the summer, when removing from the container, the soil should not be shaken off from the roots. Seedlings purchased from nurseries or garden centers should be watered generously before planting.

It is highly recommended to water the plant purchased from a nursery thoroughly.

You can soak the root ball in water for a while until air bubbles stop appearing from the water.

Buy seedlings in a large container, the dimensions of which correspond to the overall size of the plant - roots do not develop well in small containers.

When purchasing, check the agrotechnical characteristics and check the viability of the bush: its branches should be elastic, healthy and strong. Sick and weak seedling it won't be possible to go out.

Mulching and fertilizing

To mulch bushes, crushed pine bark, fallen pine needles, steamed sawdust, fine expanded clay, peat or tree foliage (except chestnut and maple) are used.

Mulching retains moisture in the soil, prevents weeds from growing, and protects surface roots from overheating in summer and from freezing in winter. When mulching, the root collar should be free.

Without feeding there will be no abundant flowering, and even normal growth of azaleas need extra food. There should be several feedings during the summer:

• In the spring, add a solution of mullein (humus) in a ratio of 1:10.
• At the moment of bud formation, a second feeding is carried out with mullein with the addition of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
• When the last buds fall off, carry out the third feeding with phosphorus and potassium in a 1:2 ratio.
• Fertilizing is applied at a distance of 0.2-0.3 m from the center of the bush.

When applying complex fertilizers, it is necessary to ensure that they do not contain chlorine and lime. You should also not use wood ash - it changes the acidity of the soil, reducing it.

Watering, weeding and spraying

Watering azaleas throughout the summer season should be plentiful. A slightly dry soil surface is a signal for further moistening. Water the plant with rain or settled water, adding citric acid to the irrigation water once a month (1 teaspoon per 2 liters of water) - it increases the acidity of the soil.

As with any other plant, it is strongly recommended to consider seasonality when watering the bush

With the beginning of autumn, watering is reduced so as not to provoke the growth of new shoots, which will not have time to ripen before winter and will freeze out. Before the start of winter, water the plant abundantly - moisture-recharging watering will allow it to withstand frosts with minimal losses.

In addition to watering, azalea loves spraying– moist air is beneficial for the decorative appearance of plants and is a preventive measure against insect pests. However, during flowering, this procedure must be abandoned, otherwise spots will form on the flowers, spoiling the appearance of the plant.

Don’t forget about weeding – you need to weed the area several times during the entire growing season. You just need to do this carefully so as not to damage the surface roots of the azalea.

Transfer

Transplantation is carried out according to the same principle as planting. The best time to replant a plant is early spring. Considering that azalea considered a capricious plant, it is recommended to select a suitable day for transplantation according to the lunar calendar.

The planting depth must be maintained at the same level.

Trimming

Pruning bushes is carried out in three stages:

1. In the spring, sanitary pruning is done, cutting out diseased and dry shoots. The rest of the shoots are left untouched - flower buds have been laid on them since the fall.
2. Regularly during flowering remove faded flowers.
3. After the last buds have withered, formative pruning is carried out - dry flower stalks are removed, shoots that are too long are shortened, and branches that thicken the bush are cut out.

The remaining shoots are shortened by no more than 1/3 of the total length - next year the azalea will branch out and take on the appearance of a lush and profusely flowering plant.

When pruning a bush, keep in mind that the types of pruning depend on the time of year.

For any pruning, the cut areas are covered with garden varnish or any drying oil-based paint. Work is carried out wearing protective gloves to avoid skin irritation– the sap of the plant is poisonous.

Azalea is a slow-growing plant species and reaches maturity at 3-4 years of age. Therefore, young bushes are not formed, but only undergo sanitary pruning.

Diseases and pests

Garden plants can suffer from fungal infections and insects. The most common diseases are rust, leaf spot, and rot. In the fight against diseases, spraying with fungicides or copper sulfate is effective.

Lightening leaves on azalea bushes, the color of which becomes yellow over time, indicate a characteristic disease - calcareous chlorosis. It is treated by applying solutions under the bush that help increase the acidity of the soil:

• table or apple cider vinegar – 100 ml per 10 liters of water;
• citric or oxalic acid – 2 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water.

For watering 1 sq. m. you will need 10 liters of solution. Peat (1.5 kg per 1 sq. m) is suitable as a soil acidifier.

No flowering

Often gardeners are faced with the fact that garden azalea doesn't bloom. There are several reasons for this:

• alkaline or neutral soil;
• lack of diffused light;
• moisture deficiency;
• high air temperature;
• insufficient nutrition or, conversely, frequent and abundant feeding.

If all requirements for planting and caring for the plant are met, it will delight you with lush and long-lasting flowering.

Reproduction: growing outdoor Azaleas from seeds and more

Garden azaleas are propagated by seeds, cuttings, layering and dividing the bush.

The choice of propagation method depends on how quickly you want to get results

The easiest way is to lean the side shoot against the ground, secure it with wire, sprinkle it with earth and water it regularly. Over time it will take root, and next spring the young bush can be separated from the mother plant.

Divide the bushes with a vein before the sap begins to flow. Using a sharp object (spatula, spatula), a part of the bush is separated and transplanted to a new location. In this case, the mother bush should have a well-developed root system and several healthy shoots.

Propagation by cuttings takes from 1.5 to 4 months from the moment of cutting the cuttings to their rooting. To achieve results, you need to follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners:

• Cut apical cuttings 10 cm long. Apical bud and remove lower leaves, leaving 2-3 healthy leaves.
• Treat the sections with a growth stimulator. Deepen the cuttings 2-3 cm into individual pots or cups filled with a mixture of peat and sand. Moisten the soil.
• Cover the cups with plastic bottles with the bottom cut off to create mini-greenhouses. A week after planting the cuttings, begin ventilation by unscrewing the lids or removing the caps for 10-15 minutes every day.

Creating micro-greenhouses helps maintain the desired temperature

• For successful rooting, maintain the air temperature at +20+24°C and water as needed, remembering to drain excess water from the trays.
• After rooting, transplant the cuttings into a container with fertile, acidic soil.
• Plant out in a year for a permanent place in the garden.

Propagation by cuttings is a troublesome and time-consuming process, but it has its advantages. If your dacha neighbor takes cuttings from his bushes, you will immediately see which plant will bloom in your garden in 3-4 years.

The seed propagation method is practically not used by gardeners - with this method of propagation you will have to wait a long time for the first flowering.

Those who like to grow plants from seeds can try to germinate them in an improvised daily ventilated greenhouse, keeping an eye on for substrate moisture.

Preparing for winter and spring care

Next year's buds begin to form in the fall. Therefore, it is important to preserve the plant during winter and help it survive the frosts.

Despite the relatively good winter hardiness of many varieties, it is safer to cover the shrub for the winter to ensure that flower buds, young branches and surface roots are kept in a healthy state:

• After moisture-recharging irrigation, the ground under the bushes is mulched to a thickness of 5-10 cm. Under tall azaleas, the mulch layer can be increased to 30 cm.
• Branches of deciduous varieties are carefully bent to the ground and secured with wire. They make a multi-layer shelter from corrugated cardboard, covering materials and spruce branches.

When organizing winter protection, do not use polyethylene and other airtight materials, otherwise the buds and shoots will smear and rot.

• For evergreen varieties, a frame is first made, which is installed before the ground freezes; the covering material is pulled over the frame only with the onset of stable cold weather.

Do not use materials that do not allow air to pass through, otherwise the bush will rot

The frame is insulated with durable materials or roofing felt so that a distance of 20-25 cm is maintained between the walls of the shelter and the bushes. To drain moisture under the structure lay flexible hose, the other end of which is brought out.

With the onset of the first days of spring, there is no need to rush to open the azalea bushes; you need to wait until the snow cover in the area completely melts. Plants that have become weaned from sunlight over the winter should be gradually accustomed to the spring rays, opening them briefly in the morning and gradually increasing the time.

Plants tolerate winter differently and need to be prepared accordingly. For example, there is a specific order for...

The first time it is better to open the bushes on a cloudy day.

Azalea is a demanding outdoor plant. She needs to create certain conditions under which she will feel good. In response, the shrub will thank you with a huge number of flowers, pleasing for a long time. By simultaneously planting several varieties of azaleas with different flowering periods, you can enjoy a riot of colors throughout the summer.