Because most often personal plots are characterized small in size, then home craftsmen go to various tricks to “squeeze” the maximum into a limited space functional buildings. This is how projects are created one-story houses with garage and bathhouse.

Everyone knows that a garage, a bathhouse and a residential building are buildings with absolutely different requirements and features. Therefore, they should be combined correctly, taking into account all the nuances that are characteristic of these buildings. We will talk about the features that house designs with a sauna and garage have in this article.

We combine a house with a garage and a bathhouse

If you are planning to build a house with a bathhouse and a garage, then first of all you should think about the choice of material.

The fact is that this is partly an attempt to “combine the incompatible,” because these premises not only have different purposes, but are also quite specific:

1. The bathhouse has high temperatures and frequent temperature changes, not to mention high humidity, which can quickly render the structure unusable upholstered furniture And interior decoration etc. Therefore, the walls are most often covered with clapboard.
   Taking into account all the above-described features, for a bathhouse combined with a garage and residential building, it will be necessary to provide reliable waterproofing. In addition, when arranging baths, you cannot use materials that emit harmful substances when burned.

1. The garage space is most often intended not only for storing a car.. It is also a storage room where building materials, gasoline, engine oil and various tools are stored. Therefore, it is necessary to use the most durable, wear-resistant and easy-to-clean coatings.
2. Living rooms should be environmentally friendly. Therefore, first of all, the layout of the site for a house with a garage, bathhouse and gazebo should take into account the fact that moisture and heat from the bathhouse and the smell of oil and gasoline from the garage should not penetrate into the living rooms.

As you can see, the requirements are quite different, but such structures should be built from the same material, so it is necessary to choose a building material that would satisfy the requirements of each part of the building.

Advice!
To save space on the site, the steam room can be placed on the first floor, and living rooms on the second.

Material selection

When developing a house project along with a garage and a bathhouse, you should pay attention to the following materials:

1. Wood is best material for a bath. In addition, traditional houses in Rus' were chopped and built from logs. However, wood is not suitable for a garage. the best option. The problem is that in the garage the walls, just like other surfaces, get dirty very quickly, losing their appearance.

Advice!
The problem with the garage space can be solved by interior finishing of wooden walls.
Plastic is perfect for this, as it has a presentable appearance and is easy to clean.

1. Brick is a more reliable and practical material for garage construction. It is also excellent for the construction of residential buildings, being the main building material in this industry. For, however, in this case you should carry out additional insulation of the walls.
   A house project with a garage and a brick bathhouse will require a more massive foundation and wall finishing, which significantly increases the price of the building. In addition, the material itself is not cheap.
2. If you want to save money, you can build a house with a sauna and a garage with your own hands from foam concrete, slag concrete or expanded clay concrete. These materials - great alternative bricks, since they are cheaper and larger in size, which can significantly speed up the construction process.

Design Features

Before placing a garage, bathhouse and house on your site, you should consider some points.

The following instructions will help you in designing:

1. To extend the life of the building you need to carry out high-quality waterproofing. This is very important for both the bathhouse and the garage. The fact is that high humidity, exhaust gases and aggressive liquids will negatively affect the integrity of the foundation.
2. All adjacent walls between the bathhouse and the rest of the building must be properly insulated. If the thermal insulation is insufficient, this can lead to rupture of the wall seam.
3. It is advisable to locate the garage and bathhouse nearby. It would also be a good idea to install a door between them. This way you can store sauna fuel in the garage, and, if necessary, deliver it to the sauna.
4. A shower will also come in handy after doing dirty garage work. You can take a warm shower without leaving the room.
5. The sauna stove can be installed against an adjacent wall. This way you will save on heating your living space.

Conclusion

This article describes the main points when designing a combined building. As you can see, there is whole line important nuances that should be taken into account when drawing up a project. Successful combination of a house with a garage and a bathhouse extension will be achieved only if you listen to all the recommendations described above.

Watch the video in this article to learn more details.

If the size of the plot does not allow building a bathhouse separately with the allocation of a special functional area and a set of communications, it is possible to erect a single building under common roof. The correct design of such construction will allow you to create a comfortable complex, the use of which will be profitable even from an economic point of view.

Construction of a bathhouse under the same roof as a house can be:

• designed in advance;
• made as an extension to the wall.

Recently, it is the second option that is most common. To carry it out, a trench is dug and a monolithic concrete is laid. strip foundation. External walls are constructed from the same material as the house (but there are also options for joining timber with brick, frame technologies and so on.). Wooden sauna the outside is also sheathed with a layer of insulation and siding.

If the bathhouse is part of a residential building, before designing it is important to provide and think through the following communications:

• ventilation system ( high humidity may destroy the supporting structure);
• waterproofing to protect building materials from moisture both from outside and inside the bathhouse;
• combination with a bathroom with autonomous or centralized sewerage (economically beneficial);
• general electrical wiring.

It is advisable to make a kitchen wall an adjacent wall (it is possible to install a single stove). Options for combining a bathhouse and a residential building with a covered passage corridor are also popular. This option allows winter time comfortably visit the bathhouse without going outside, and provided there is sufficient space and installation heating system, it is easy to install a font or pool in the transition.

Nuances

The combination of a house and a bathhouse can be divided into three degrees:

• at the planning stage, when the bathhouse complex is located on the ground floor and combined with a single roof of the house;
• a full-fledged extension of the log house, when the roof is extended and covers the bathhouse complex;
• usage common wall, when the joining of buildings is facilitated and a smooth transition from the house to the bathhouse is observed.

It is important to consider the location of the exit from the bathhouse, since in winter a separate entrance can cause inconvenience, which is usually corrected with the help of a covered glazed veranda. Such a project is more complex and costs more, taking into account the need to install high-quality double-glazed windows, insulate the walls, lay non-slip coating on the floor and heat the room.

House with a bathhouse - photo

Foundation

When constructing a full-fledged bath complex combined with a residential building, Special attention is given to the foundation. The features of the foundation depend on the material of the walls and the planned load. The foundation must be solid and built separately from the foundation of the house. The fact is that high humidity can lead to cracks and the foundation moving away from the overall structure.

The depth and thickness of the foundation is determined depending on the height of the future bathhouse and the materials used, but experienced builders recommend laying the foundation below the freezing point of the soil to prevent any movement and deformation when changing seasons and the accompanying heaving of the soil.

Scheme - the principle of joining the main house and the extension
Options for connecting the foundations of the extension according to the scheme of open (a, b, c, d) and closed (e) contours: 1 - existing house; 2 - extension

When planning, it is important to ensure the sewerage outlet. To do this, 2 pipes are installed to drain the house and bathhouse separately. If there is no main sewage system, then a separate cesspool will have to be made for the bathhouse. If plumbing is being installed, then it is also better to use a separate pipe for the future bath.

For a one-story wooden house combined with small sauna, a strip foundation with a depth of up to 0.5 meters and a width of up to 30 cm is suitable. For brick or block house it will be necessary to create a full-fledged foundation, installed according to the rules, which can withstand a heavy load.

A universal solution is the construction of a monolithic strip foundation, the diagrams of which are presented below.

Attention! It is better to carry out work on pouring the foundation in the warm season, since the finished foundation must be thoroughly dried and allowed to stand for 21 days before construction continues. IN winter period the best option The base devices for the bathhouse are screw piles. For a bathhouse with dimensions from 4x4 to 6x6 you will need 4-9 stainless steel screw piles with a diameter of 108 mm and a wall thickness of 4-5 mm.

Foundation construction instructions

Notes:
- the number in brackets indicates the pillow material: 1 - medium-sized sand, 2 - coarse sand, 3 - a mixture of sand (40%) with crushed stone (60%);
- above the line value for walls made of insulated wooden panels, below the line - for log and timber walls.

The location of the future bathhouse is determined, along the perimeter of which pegs are driven in. The construction twine is stretched evenly along these pegs, used as a guide.

Next, the width of the foundation is set aside, the cast-off is installed and the second line of twine is pulled. It is mandatory to check the diagonals of the foundation and the accuracy of all right angles. For measurements, it is convenient to use a rangefinder and a laser level, as well as a plumb line for installing stakes and castings.

A trench is dug along the perimeter of the walls (in accordance with the markings). The walls should be smooth. If the soil is sandy, it is advisable to install temporary formwork, which will prevent the walls from falling to the bottom.

We must not forget about the trench for communications - the drainage system. If central sewerage is provided, then the trench is drawn to the nearest insertion into the pipe. If there is no central sewer system, then the trench is led to a drainage pit, located separately from the house.

A pipe is installed in a trench under communications at a slight slope and filled with sand and soil. The trench under the foundation of the bathhouse is filled 2/3 with crushed stone and coarse sand. This backfill is moistened with water and compacted.

In the resulting trenches, formwork is installed, knocked together from boards of the same length. In this case, the foundation level must be 20 cm above the ground. The inner walls of the formwork should be lined with film or roofing felt. It is necessary to provide and install ventilation pipes in the foundation.

Connected reinforcing bars are placed in the trenches. The frame is secured with plastic clamps (the frame should be 5 cm from the formwork walls and the bottom of the trench, and 5-10 cm from the top point of concrete pouring).

A. - mesh with two working reinforcement rods; b. - mesh with three working reinforcement rods; V. - T-shaped joint; g. - L-shaped corner joint; d. - additional MZLF reinforcement with a large sole width, when the sole is more than 60 cm wider than the base (the additional mesh is located only in the lower part.
1 - working fittings (A-III); 2 - auxiliary reinforcing wire ∅ 4-5 ​​mm (Вр-I); 3 - vertical reinforcement rods ∅ 10 mm (A-III), connecting the upper and lower mesh; 4 - reinforcement for strengthening the corner ∅ 10 mm (A-III); 5 - connection with wire strands (twisting length is at least 30 diameters of the working reinforcement); 6 - additional working fittings ∅ 10 mm (A-III)

Concrete is being poured. Concrete mix it is leveled, and after drying (during this period it is recommended to cover the tape with film and periodically moisten it with water from a watering can) it is supplemented with waterproofing (bitumen mastic or roofing felt).

Attention! When constructing a bathhouse extension, it is important to remove the soil near the foundation of the house near the adjacent wall in order to lay a new foundation at the same level.

Video - Extension to the house. Tape base

Features of the construction of walls and windows

When building a bathhouse from logs and timber, it is important to remember about shrinkage, which continues for several years in a row. If you decide to use brick or blocks for construction, remember that it is necessary to vertical walls, as well as compliance with masonry rules.

If the bathhouse is being built as an extension, then it is important to accurately join the walls and ensure a reliable connection. To do this, holes are drilled in the wall of the house for the reinforcement rods, which are driven in so that their opposite end in the future will be fixed into the masonry of the wall of the future bathhouse.

As for windows, metal-plastic structures are very popular today. They are distinguished by their practicality in use, ease of installation, minimal maintenance and long service life. When working with such windows, it is important to follow two basic rules:

• each window must be equipped with an opening window;
• structures should not be very large and have jumpers.

Ignoring these rules will make it very difficult to ventilate the room in winter.

Video - Installation of windows and casing in a wooden house

Video - Installing a pigtail with your own hands

Instructions for constructing sauna walls from logs

When building a log bathhouse, it is important to know the nuances of laying logs so that the structure lasts as long as possible and its design is not damaged.

The first crown is laid out from the thickest types of logs. In this case, it is important to treat the lower part of the crown with an antiseptic, and the upper part with mastic, which is responsible for waterproofing the structure.

The corners are made “into a bowl”, that is, the ends of the logs necessarily go beyond the boundaries of the future walls. This design will protect against moisture and blowing. The most impressive look is the dovetail styling, which requires a lot of effort and experience. To construct it, it is better to contact an experienced carpenter.

Marking and cutting out a log frame “into a bowl”

The simplest installation option is an “end tongue” connection:

Corner notches of a simplified design “into the end tongue”

A tenon is made from the end of the log, and a groove is cut into the side of another log.

The same grooves are made at the bottom of all logs, which guarantees even and reliable laying.

The logs are connected to each other using dowels and dowels.

Video - Construction of walls using dowels

To build high-quality bath walls, timber with a section of 15×15 or 15×18 is used. The above method promotes even laying with reliable fastening of the logs. In this case, metal or thick wooden pins can be installed in the corners and in the central part of the beam for greatest strength designs.

SAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERA

Between each crown there should be an additional layer of insulation in the form of strip flax or jute, which is cut into strips, laid between the logs and nailed with a stapler. Experts recommend using jute, since it practically does not compress after installing the walls and shrinking the bathhouse. For a more aesthetic appearance, jute rope is used, which reliably covers the joints.

The nuances of roof construction

In case of combined construction, the roof must have a solid structure. Its separation can lead to a rapid breakdown of the integrity of the building. It is better to use a 2- or 4-pitched roof, since it is different large area and high stability, capable of withstanding such complex design. Before you start building the roof, it is important to decide whether an attic or attic is required, since this part of the house must be built right away.

Example of an extension with a pitched roof

What is important to remember when building a common roof:

• it is important to accurately calculate the height of the roof of the bathhouse and residential building;
• be sure to make two chimneys - separately for the house and the future bathhouse;
• A system of ebb tides and reliable snow holders is immediately installed.

When constructing a bathhouse as an extension, the roof can be single-pitched or gable. When arranging a lean-to structure, the highest one is exactly bath roof should be adjacent to the wall of the house and go under the main roof. Ceilings to strengthen the structure should be constructed from 10x10 cm timber or boards laid on edge with the same width. Then a sheathing is attached to the bottom and top of the beams, on which heat and vapor insulation is applied. Roof rafters should be installed so that the roof slope angle is 20%. Then it is laid roofing material, and the remaining gaps and cracks are sealed using polyurethane foam.

The material for the roof can be anything, depending on the wishes of the owners. However, it is economically beneficial to use metal tiles or galvanized profiles. These materials require the creation of a simple frame with wooden joists. Bitumen or ondulin roofs will require not only professional installation, but also the creation of a special surface. But outwardly they look more respectable and impressive.

Step-by-step instructions for constructing a roof for a bathhouse

Let's consider the option of building a gable roof for an extension bath. The roof of the bathhouse will be connected to the main one gable roof at home, the result will be a single design of a bath house.

Stage	Illustration	Description
Mauerlat		To begin with, a mauerlat is laid on the walls of the house. In the case of building a log house, the last log or beam of the wall serves as the mauerlat. For block and brick walls The Mauerlat is made of concrete, which is poured into formwork with mandatory reinforcement. If a wooden mauerlat is laid on a brick structure, roll insulation must be laid between the wall and the beam, and the beam itself is fixed with anchors.
Overlap		Ceiling beams are laid on the Mauerlat, for example, from a board with a section of 10x5 cm (installed at the end) or timber 10x10 cm. It is convenient to fasten with perforated corners and galvanized screws (8 screws for each corner). The pitch of the beams is chosen to be 60 cm.
Front board filing		Ends ceiling beams must protrude beyond the Mauerlat. The ends are leveled, then a sheathing board is attached to them. Please note that the roof of the bathhouse under construction protrudes above the wall of the extension to the same distance as the existing roof of the house.
Rough flooring		Before installing the rafters, it is necessary to secure the boards to the floor beams. You can use both edged and unedged boards, as well as OSB. Fastening can be done with small gaps.
Marking		We attach two 150 cm wide boards to the gable of the existing roof. This will be the first rafter truss, which is convenient for marking the rest of the rafters. From the intersection point of the nailed boards, measure the distance to the ceiling. We put a mark - this point will be the middle of the roof. From the intended central point, we measure the distance to the right and left canopies (the ends of the floor beams with a hemmed board), for example, it will be 1.5 m. On the opposite side of the roof, we mark the central point, measuring the same one and a half meters.
Installation of support beams for rafters		At the marked point we fix a vertical beam with a cross-section of 150x50 cm and strengthen it with slats. We fasten the cross beam from the point of connection of the boards first roof truss to a vertically installed beam (cut the vertical beam to the length required). The horizontal board will serve as a support for the rafters.
Assembling the rafters		We calculate the angle of the roof, the length of the rafters, cut out the first rafter, and try it on in place. Using the template, the remaining rafters are cut from a 150x50 cm board. At the top point, forming the ridge, we connect the rafters with long 200 mm nails and use perforated fasteners. The bottom mount is similar.
Pruning		We will later cut off the protruding corners of the ceiling beams with a saw.
Strengthening the structure		We strengthen the rafters with horizontal jumpers for greater stability of the structure. We strengthen the corners of the roof base with vertical supports made of small-section timber.
		On installed rafters We fix the water vapor barrier. We shoot the material with a stapler.
Lathing		We attach sheathing boards and counter-lattens to the vapor barrier to create a ventilated roof. We decorate the overhangs by cutting off the excess protruding sheathing boards.
		We sew up the gables with inch boards; to do this, we attach vertical bars to the outer rafters, and then fix the boards horizontally with self-tapping screws.
Installation of finishing roofing material		We complete the work by installing metal tiles or corrugated sheets, a ridge, and, if necessary, installing snow guards and wind strips.

Bathroom floor installation and interior decoration

When building a bathhouse, it is important to pay special attention to the arrangement of the floor. It is important to remember that this room will be constantly exposed to moisture. Therefore, the most convenient and cost-effective option is a concrete floor in the form of pouring a screed with a slight slope towards the drain pipe. For additional and reliable floor insulation, expanded clay or penoplex is used.

Video - Floor in the bathhouse

The drain pipe is usually located in the central part of the room and has an outlet to cesspool. With sandy soil, such a pit can be located directly under a bathhouse with dimensions of 60x60x60 cm. But if the soil is clayey, then the water will be poorly absorbed, and accordingly, it is better to make a conclusion away from the bathhouse.

Video - Do-it-yourself sewage system in a bathhouse

At the same stage, the installation of the drain ladder is carried out. After the screed has dried, you can begin finishing the floor. It is recommended to use ceramic tiles with a textured non-slip surface. We must not forget about careful waterproofing of those places where the floor connects to the walls of the future bathhouse. For this, a screening method using bitumen or laying any waterproofing material can be used.

Video - Drain in the bathhouse

The walls and ceiling in the bathhouse are usually sheathed wooden clapboard. In many modern bath complexes owners prefer wood trim replace ceramic tiles. It is distinguished by an equally aesthetic appearance, as well as strength and durability. At the stage finishing works It is already possible to arrange the premises: installation of equipment for the bath, electrical wiring and furniture.

Proper organization of private territory is the key to convenience and harmony of life in a country house. Especially important aspect When planning a site, space is saved, but the presence of one or more cars complicates this problem.

It is not always possible to fit a separate structure in the form of a garage organically into the territory; often the garage takes up too much space and is expensive for its owners. One of the most popular options to avoid this problem is house designs with a garage under one roof. It is also possible to combine not only a garage, but also a bathhouse with the house.

In this article

The advantages of combining a house with a bathhouse and a garage

Why combining a house with a garage and a bathhouse - great option? It seems that it is harmonious to combine several completely different buildings into a single whole is impossible, but the facts speak for themselves.

• Saving space is a powerful argument for owners of relatively small plots of land. It is also very convenient to store fuel in the garage, which is used for a bathhouse or at home; it is possible to use the garage as a utility room;
• Possibility of heating a garage or part of a house from a stove that heats a bathhouse. With proper design, the stove can be positioned in such a way that part of the heat does not disappear, but goes to another room (if the size is up to 100 m²);
• Small distance between residential area and car. For owners, not having to run to the opposite end of the property in cold weather to check or use the car can be an additional incentive to combine a house with a garage. For the same reason, combining a house with a bathhouse is also convenient - steaming will be more pleasant if you know that you won’t have to spend a long time on the street making your way to the house;
• Saving building materials. The construction of one building instead of three will significantly reduce the amount of materials, especially when it comes to finishing.

Selection of building material

Before you start designing, you need to decide on the choice of building material. The choice of materials is based on their advantages and disadvantages, as well as the funds available to the customer.

• Wood is the most popular building material for baths and projects two-story houses with a garage. Wooden houses- these are rooms in which you can “breathe well.” This impression is easily explained by the properties of wood - it is light and environmentally friendly. Although wood is also flammable, it has good fire resistance (sufficient for those inside the room to escape) and does not emit harmful substances when burned. Flammability and rotting of wood have long ceased to be a problem modern construction– all kinds of impregnations easily solve these issues. However, with all its positive qualities, wood has one significant drawback– this is the price. Today wood is one of the most expensive building materials;
• Blocks made of foam concrete and aerated concrete are light, cheap, and durable. Good thermal performance indicators, acoustic properties, non-flammability - these qualities quickly helped aerated concrete blocks become a popular building material. So why aren’t all buildings and structures constructed from aerated concrete? Foam blocks also have a lot of disadvantages, which manufacturers try to keep silent about. Unlike brick, for example, when laying with aerated blocks, it is not recommended to use a cement-sand mixture, but a specialized glue, which costs several times more. Of course, if you use a classic cement-sand mixture, the masonry will not fall apart, but the presence of cold bridges will be ensured. Aerated concrete also necessarily requires waterproofing, external and internal finishing and is not an environmentally friendly material;
• Brick is a material that has been among the leaders in the construction market for many decades. Brick is expensive and heavy, so it requires the construction of a solid foundation, but it thermal insulation properties, durability and fire resistance will not leave anyone indifferent. Great for single story house projects.

Key points to consider when designing

Designing a house and a garage with a bathhouse under one roof is not an easy process and requires the participation of a specialist. To prevent the project of a garage with a bathhouse from turning into unpleasant consequences, you need to pay attention to some rules.

During construction, do not neglect the use of GOST, codes of practice (SP) and building codes and regulations (SNiP). These reference materials are the key to successful and safe construction and construction results.

If possible, it is better to build both a house and a bathhouse with a garage at the same time. The construction of extensions without the involvement of a designer most often turns out disastrously, and the first problems arise within a few months after the completion of construction.

Obviously, a house project with a garage under one roof is an excellent option for suburban area. The variety of projects allows you to make your site original and different from any other. One option can sparkle with new colors if you change, for example, the type of roof. Create Vacation home Everyone can achieve their dreams!

The project of a garage with a bathhouse and an attic seems to be something unusual today. But if you look at it, this solution is very practical.

Owners of vast plots of land and bottomless wallets can build a house, garage, guest house, gazebo, bathhouse, etc. on their plot. - All . They will take up a lot of space; each of them will need to be connected to the necessary communications, paths and access roads. Heating is a separate issue, and quite expensive. True, to get from one building to another you will have to go out into the open sky, but this is not such a problem and is even good for health.

The other extreme is projects of houses with a bathhouse and a garage, as well as many others non-residential premises. – an economical solution, not only in financial terms, but also in terms of the effective use of each square meter land plot. But this option has a number of disadvantages:

• The garage and bathhouse are a source of increased fire danger;
• Exhaust gases from the garage and steam from the bathhouse can enter living spaces;
• All rooms in the house will have to be heated, including the garage, which is not always good;
• Jump out of the bathhouse and plop into cold water you can only if the house also has a swimming pool.

“Golden mean” – garage with bathhouse and attic

Most of our customers try to find a “golden mean” and build several multifunctional buildings on the site. Therefore, many are interested in a garage with a bathhouse and an attic with a guest room or recreation room located in it. Yes, it is not necessary to build a bathhouse separately or install it in the house. A bathhouse in the garage is a practical and convenient solution. A garage with a bathhouse and an attic provides several advantages:

• Efficient use of site area;
• Possibility to accommodate guests in a separate building;
• The potentially fire-hazardous bathhouse and garage are located outside the house;
• Communications need to be connected to only one building;
• One bathroom will serve for a bathhouse, a guest room, and a garage;
• One heating system will heat both the garage and the guest room;
• If the heating system is not afraid negative temperatures– it can be turned on only if necessary.

Bathhouse in the garage and heating

Indeed, if no one is visiting you, why heat the guest room? The need for heating in a garage may be questionable. But if the guest room and bathhouse are in the garage, then one heating system can heat all the rooms. The ability to heat the garage as well, if necessary, will be a pleasant and almost free bonus if you choose a garage project with a bathhouse and an attic with a guest room.

The guest room fits perfectly into the garage attic and can be used as a recreation room or for entertaining guests. For example, if at home Small child, then you can safely have noisy gatherings late into the night with friends in the garage.

A bathhouse in the garage provides one more thing, not quite obvious advantage. Let's say you brought firewood for a sauna in the trunk of a car. When you enter the garage, the bathhouse will be literally two steps away, so unloading will not require any effort. Unused firewood can be stored in the garage, the main thing is that there is not too much of it, but from a physical point of view this is not the best idea.

Material for construction

Since constantly heating the garage and guest house is expensive and simply not really necessary, it is better to implement the project of a garage with a bathhouse and an attic using building materials that are not afraid of freezing. Particular attention should be paid to sandwich panels. They are not afraid of freezing; buildings assembled from them easily warm up and retain heat well. But here you need to remember important nuance. must be used with mineral wool. They can easily withstand impact high temperatures without deformation and deterioration in performance properties.

Drawing with dimensions and layout of a garage with a bathhouse

After all, here a bathhouse, which must be easily accessed from the house, and a garage, which must be entered by car, are combined under one vehicle from the street side. Based on this, it is necessary to choose the correct orientation of this complex building on summer cottage.

Before talking about the intricacies of combining these, at first glance, incompatible buildings, I would like to dwell on the advantages of this combination in order to finally dispel the reader’s doubts about the appropriateness of this measure.

So, the “advantages” of the proximity of a garage and a bathhouse include:

These are the main advantages of combining a garage and a bathhouse, but there are also a number of less significant ones. For example, combining these two rooms will allow you to take a shower after dirty work in the garage without moving along the street, which is especially convenient in inclement weather.

What you should pay special attention to when combining a garage and a bathhouse

So, if you have already decided to build a bath-garage complex, then when drawing up the project you should take into account the following subtleties:

Project of a garage and bathhouse with a veranda measuring 15x12 meters

Selecting material for the construction of a complex structure

Before developing a project for a bathhouse with a garage, you need to decide on the material from which this structure will be built. For this purpose, all known Construction Materials: brick, stone, foam and gas blocks. Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's look at them in more detail.

Wood

The “advantages” of wood include the following:

1. environmental friendliness;
2. ease;
3. ease of processing.

Project of a garage with a wooden bathhouse

Thanks to these advantages, they do not require a strong, solid foundation, can be easily erected with their own hands, and they also create a favorable microclimate that has a positive effect on a person’s health and well-being, which is very important for a bathhouse. However, wood also has significant disadvantages, the main one of which is a high fire hazard.

This fact is not acceptable both for a bathhouse and for a garage, and therefore, when building a wooden complex, special attention should be paid to ensuring fire safety with the help of special impregnations.

The second disadvantage is the fact that the wood requires ongoing care, which consists of treating wood with special water-repellent, antifungal, and insecticidal impregnations to extend the life of the building.

Layout option wooden garage with sauna and relaxation room

However, if you are ready to take these measures to ensure the safety of wood, then timber complex building projects are the ideal solution for you.

Brick

Brick is classic quality material for the construction of private buildings. It has a high degree of fire safety, heat capacity, strength and reliability. will serve for many years faithfully without any constant maintenance.

However, brick is a fairly heavy material, which entails the need to pour a solid foundation. And this will increase construction costs. And the brick itself is a fairly expensive material, so building a bathhouse and garage complex using it will be costly.

Among other things, a brick building requires additional external and internal finishing in accordance with the functional purpose of the room.

Ready project brick garage with sauna

Foam and aerated concrete blocks

These are fairly inexpensive building materials that have a high degree of fire safety, durability, and practicality. Foam and aerated concrete blocks very light, so they do not require a powerful foundation. They have good heat and sound insulation parameters.

The disadvantages include the fact that buildings made from these blocks require external and internal finishing to ensure high-quality waterproofing, since the porous structure of the material easily absorbs moisture from the atmosphere.

Often, when combining a garage with a bathhouse, a combination of materials is used. For example, projects are quite popular where the bathhouse part of the building is made of wood, and the garage part is made of bricks or blocks. includes the presence of a double wall between the bathhouse and the garage, which allows increasing the level of hydro- and thermal insulation between them.