Planting paniculata hydrangea will decorate problem areas of the garden. Caring for crops certainly requires certain skills and effort. However, you just have to look at the photo of this beauty to be convinced that the game is worth the candle!

Description of Hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea paniculata is a genus of shrubs and trees from the Saxifraga family. Originally from the Far East. The height of the paniculata hydrangea bush reaches 3 meters (some varieties up to 10 m). Shoots are upright, spreading. From the second year of growing season, the stems become woody. The leaves are opposite, large, finely toothed.

Hydrangea pleases gardeners with a long flowering period

Hydrangea paniculata differs from other species in the shape of its inflorescence. Many small graceful flowers are collected in panicles pyramidal shape. Spike-shaped inflorescences reach up to 30 cm in length and 20 cm in width. It blooms very profusely, forming a luxurious crown, from June to October. The first flowering occurs in the 3-4th year of growth. The color of the flowers is chameleon: by autumn the white color will be replaced by pink.

An adult paniculata hydrangea bush is completely winter-hardy. It grows on acidic and polluted soils, in shaded areas, and is very moisture-loving. Long-lived - grows up to 60 years. Hydrangea paniculata is excellent honey plant and will decorate any, even the most specific area of ​​the garden.

Popular varieties of paniculata hydrangea

1. Grandiflora(“Grandiflora”) – common popular variety. A fast-growing bush with large inflorescences. During the flowering period, it changes color four times: when the inflorescences bloom - cream; full bloom - white, turning into pink; in autumn – red-green. Blooms slightly later than other varieties.

   

   Variety "Grandiflora"

2. "Kyushu"(“Kyushu”) - reaches a height of three meters, distinguished by a spreading fan-shaped crown. Flowers have pleasant aroma.

   

   Variety "Kyushu"

3. "Mathilda"(“Matilda”) - a bush up to two meters in height. The crown of the bush reaches 3 m in diameter. The flowers change color from cream to red-green.

   

   Variety "Mathilda"

4. "Pink Diamond"(“Pink Diamond”) - distinguished by very large inflorescences, which over time acquire an almost red color.

   

   Variety "Pink Diamond"

5. "Brussels Lace"(“Brussels Lace”) is a rare variety. Forms many inflorescences with fruiting flowers. She looks tender, like a bride.

   

   Variety "Brussels Lace"

6. "Tardiva"(“Tardiva”) - characterized by late flowering (August - October). The height of the bush is up to three meters, the inflorescences are located at the ends of the shoots. Used for group plantings.

   

   Variety "Tardiva"

A variety of varieties of paniculata hydrangea will help you choose the one that is right for you.

Planting paniculata hydrangea

Before planting hydrangea paniculata, you need to choose the right place.

Illumination. Hydrangea is planted in semi-shaded areas. On open areas hydrangea will grow poorly and the inflorescences will become smaller.

Hydrangea should be planted in partial shade. Where other shrubs grow poorly, it will feel great

The soil. The plant prefers fertile clay or loamy soil. Does not develop in sandy soil. The soil for growing hydrangea should be acidic, so the flowering will be abundant and the color of the flowers will be brighter. You can acidify the soil by first adding half-rotted pine needles, sawdust, and brown peat to it.

Important! Do not apply deoxidizers to hydrangea - lime, dolomite flour, ash.

Humidity. Hydrangea is a very moisture-loving plant and may not tolerate being in the vicinity of the same “drinkers.” To maintain moisture under the crown, it is recommended to plant ground cover flowers: saxifrage and sedum.

Planting hydrangeas is very easy

Hydrangea paniculata is planted in early spring and in autumn. The planting hole should be wide, up to 70 cm in diameter, to evenly distribute the roots. The recess is filled with a portion of mineral or organic fertilizers and moisturizes. When planting a hydrangea seedling, the root collar should not be buried. Covered with soil and compacted landing hole need to be watered generously.

Advice. In autumn, planting paniculata hydrangea can only be done in southern regions. In all others - only in the spring.

The distance between planted bushes is at least one and a half meters. In group plantings of hydrangeas, to achieve rapid closure of the crowns, seedlings can be planted at a shorter distance from each other. As they grow, such plantings are thinned out.

Care for hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea paniculata is a rather demanding and capricious plant. Proper care will help you achieve bright, abundant flowering on a powerful, healthy bush.

Watering. Abundant and regular (during drought at least twice a week). After watering, the soil must be loosened, avoiding cracking of the top layer. The solution to the problem will be mulching with pine needles or peat.

Mulching hydrangeas

Feeding. Hydrangea is very responsive to fertilization. At the beginning of growth, it will be useful to add a diluted infusion of nettle. Mineral fertilizing is applied carefully, without excess, but regularly (every 10 days). It is preferable to use water-soluble fertilizers and apply them along with watering. Organic is perfect slurry and diluted bird droppings.

Important! The interval for fertilizing hydrangea should not exceed 15 days. Otherwise, flowering will be sparse and faded.

Trimming. Every year, hydrangea bushes need to be pruned short. This way they will retain their attractiveness for a long time and bloom profusely.

In autumn, all remaining inflorescences, old and weak shoots, and branches growing inside the bush are cut off from the bush. It is recommended to leave 10-12 strong shoots in winter.

Pruning hydrangea

Spring pruning is carried out before the buds open. The shoots of an adult bush are cut to 2-3 buds, young ones - to 3-5. This pruning will allow the bush to gain strength over the summer and meet the winter fully armed. Flowering becomes more luxuriant.

Important! Pruning is required for paniculata hydrangea. Otherwise, the bush develops poorly and does not bloom.

Old bushes need to be rejuvenated from time to time. To do this, the shoots are cut under the stump. The bush is completely restored in two years. Standard methods of growing paniculata hydrangea require more gentle pruning.

Shelter. Young seedlings require winter cover with spruce branches or other materials. In regions with harsh climates, mature bushes also need to be covered.

Do not neglect covering the bushes for the winter

A photo of paniculata hydrangea in the garden conveys all its beauty and inspires to overcome difficulties when growing.

Hydrangea propagation

Hydrangea paniculata reproduces in the following ways:

1. Seeds.
2. By cuttings.
3. By layering.

It is immediately worth noting that propagating hydrangea by seeds is not justified. The seeds are very small, they produce unfriendly shoots, the quality is lost, flowering bush can only be obtained after four years.

Hydrangea seeds

The most common method of propagation is cuttings. Cuttings are taken from one-year-old mature shoots. Typically, ripening occurs in June, when hydrangea produces buds.

Important! Cuttings cut in spring and autumn do not root well.

Rules for cutting cuttings:

• the cutting must have at least three pairs of buds;
• the lower section under the kidney at a distance of 2 cm;
• the upper cut above the bud at a distance of 5 cm (if the shoot is small, the upper cut can be omitted);
• the lower leaves are removed, leaving 1-2 leaves at the top;
• the remaining sheets are cut in half.

The chopped shoots need to be soaked in water for several days. Hydrangea is very capricious when propagating, so to achieve the desired result, it is recommended to treat the cuttings with a growth stimulator.

Cutting hydrangea cuttings

The cuttings are rooted in containers with a sand-peat mixture (1:2). Is buried planting material by 2/3. The soil mixture is covered with a layer of sand on top so that the bottom of the cutting does not reach the peat mixture. The seedlings are covered with jars and placed in the shade.

It is very important to maintain constant humidity in the containers, otherwise the cuttings will not take root. Spraying and watering should be done every day. The first roots will appear after three weeks. Now you can remove the jars and continue to water the seedlings regularly.

For the winter, containers should be placed in a cool but frost-free place. During this period, you need to monitor the condition of the plant and prevent the appearance of fungus.

Using the cutting method you will get young plant by next year

Seedlings are planted in open ground in August next year. By this time, the cuttings will already have young shoots. If during this period there appeared flower buds, they need to be cut off so that the plant can gain strength. The young seedling needs to be covered for the winter, and only after the first flowering the bush is considered winter-hardy.

Obtaining layering of paniculata hydrangea is quite simple. One-year mature shoots are bent into a dug ditch 20-25 cm deep. Shallow cuts are first made on the stem at the intended location of root germination. In the ditch, the layer is pinned or fixed with a stone. The upper part of the shoot must be above the ground, always in a vertical position. The ditch is filled with earth and moistened.

Hydrangea is easily propagated by layering

Already next spring layering will produce young shoots. There is no need to rush to separate them from the mother bush. This can be done in a year, when the young animals have gained enough strength. All varietal properties of the mother bush are preserved.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea in the garden is affected by many diseases and pests. To the very dangerous diseases relate:

The fight against diseases must be carried out in a timely manner with special preparations and not to forget about preventive measures.

Snails can cause significant damage to hydrangea leaves.

Pests of hydrangea paniculata:

• snails - feed on leaves;
• aphids and spider mites - located on the underside of the leaf, they feed on the sap of the plant;
• pennies and bedbugs are larger sucking pests;
• leaf beetle, leaf roller, weevil - gnaw and twist leaves;
• nematodes - live in root tissues.

Important! During the flowering of paniculata hydrangea, spraying with chemicals is not recommended.

Weak plants cannot resist diseases. Growing zoned varieties, following agricultural practices, preventive spring spraying with Bordeaux mixture, removing dried branches - these are the measures that will help avoid the scourge of most diseases.

Weevil

Plants damaged by nematodes and viral infections, are subject to removal.

Hydrangea paniculata is a very capricious beauty. Growing it involves many difficulties. But when the first huge inflorescences appear, all the difficulties are forgotten, and you just want to enjoy this incredible miracle of nature.

Blooming hydrangea paniculata: video

Varieties and types of hydrangea: photos

Hydrangea is a tall or short growing plant that belongs to the Hydrangeaceae family. Grows in the south of Sakhalin, China and Japan. Certain types can also be found in Russian Far East. There is another name for hydrangea - hydrangia (Hydrangea) and this is explained by the fact that the flower loves moisture very much. It is often grown on garden plots, since the plant has adapted well to the Russian climate.

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Description

Hydrangea can be found in the form climbing vine, upright shrub, deciduous small tree. According to the description, it is thermophilic and frost-resistant plant. Tree-like varieties and rounded bushes can reach a height of three meters, and the vine grows up to 30 meters. The leaves are large, oval, with a sharp tip, barely noticeable veins and teeth along the edges. They are located opposite.

The flowers are bright, airy, delicate, of various shades. The inflorescences at the ends of the shoots resemble panicles, shields, umbrellas, and balls. Most often they white, and in some species - lilac, blue, pink, red. The fruits are in the form of separate capsules with a large number of small seeds.

Types and varieties

The following types are most adapted to Russian conditions:

View	Description	Varieties
Hydrangea paniculata	It has large ovate, slightly pubescent leaves. The inflorescences have a pyramidal shape and consist of greenish flowers, which over time acquire a delicate cream color. In autumn, the inflorescences turn pink, pale purple or brick-colored.	Grandiflora - this variety is interesting due to the color of its inflorescences. When the plant begins to bloom, the flowers are creamy white, during flowering they turn pure white, then pink, and when they fade, they acquire a greenish-red hue. Limelight - the inflorescences have a pronounced green or lemon tint. Vanilla Fraze - pyramid inflorescences are white at the beginning of flowering, but after a while they become rich pink. Phantom - the flowers are cream in summer and pink in autumn. Sundae Fraise/Rensun is a dwarf shrub with large, wide-pyramidal inflorescences. Bobo - leaves are small, oval, dark green. The flowers are white, pink or lemon, collected in cone-shaped inflorescences. Diamond Rouge is a compact shrub with lush inflorescences of red flowers.
Hydrangea pink	It is a shrub that grows up to one meter in height. The basal shoots are thickened, densely covered with thin branches, abundantly overgrown with pink inflorescences in mid-summer. The leaves are oval-shaped with sharp ends. Umbrella-shaped inflorescences fill the center of the flowers small size, and large buds form around them
Hydrangea largeleaf	Tall shrub with large leaves. Round-shaped inflorescences come in various colors: from soft blue to pink	Blaumais is a spreading shrub with unusual beautiful flowers blue, lilac-blue, pink
Hydrangea	This is a tall plant that can grow up to 4–5 meters. The leaves are large, rich green in color. Globular inflorescences form at the top of annual shoots. The greenish flowers become soft cream after a while.	Anabel - a shrub covered with a cap of white flowers. Sterilis - large hemispherical inflorescences are initially greenish-white, and after a while they become snow-white



Selection of location and soil

The place where paniculata hydrangea will be grown should be draft-free and moderately lit. It does not tolerate sunlight well, especially in the heat. It is best to choose a site on the east side with morning sun. Slight partial shade promotes the formation of fewer inflorescences and later flowering. Sliding partial shade in the afternoon is suitable for colored shrub flowers.

The soil where hydrangea will be grown must be fertile, loose, clay, which contains humus, and neutral. The roots of the shrub extend far from the trunk, so you should not add ash, dolomite flour or chalk to the soil within a diameter of 5–6 meters from the planting site. Bulbous flowers - hyacinths, gladioli, tulips - cannot be planted in this space. To neutralize acidic soil, you can add brown peat, sawdust or pine soil. Hydrangea grows poorly on red soil, and sandy soil is completely contraindicated for it.

In regions with a cold climate (for example, in the Urals), it is best to plant shrubs in open ground in the spring, when the soil has already warmed up and the threat of morning frosts has passed. In this case, the plant takes root well and easily endures the first winter after planting. In the southern regions, hydrangea is planted in the fall.



Planting technology

To plant paniculata hydrangea in open ground, you must adhere to the following rules:

• seedlings are planted at a distance of 120–160 cm from each other;
• the planting hole should be 50 cm wide and 35–45 cm deep.

For planting, seedlings of 4-5 years old are used, which take root well and bloom in the same year. 2-3 buckets of water are poured into the prepared holes so that the ground is well moistened. The next day, they are filled almost to the top with a mixture of fertile soil, peat, sand and humus, adding superphosphate, potassium sulfate and urea, and then mixing.

Before planting, lightly trim the roots of the seedlings, lower the plant into the hole, straighten root system and dig in so that the root collar is slightly above the soil surface. The soil near the trunk is mulched with acidic peat, leaf humus or pine needles, and the bush is shaded from the bright sun.

Care

Hydrangea paniculata loves moisture very much, so the soil in the tree trunk circle should always be slightly moistened. The soil should not be allowed to dry out in hot weather.

The plant is watered once a week, with three buckets of water used for one bush. Potassium permanganate can be added to it from time to time. So that the moisture in the ground lingers longer, trunk circle periodically mulch with sawdust or leaves.

Caring for hydrangea involves fertilizing. They do this four times a season. In early spring, when sap flow begins, organic matter is added to the ground - a solution of bird droppings or mullein. Next time the plant is fed during budding. To do this, use the following composition, which is mixed in 10 liters of water:

• urea – 25 g;
• superphosphate – 35 g;
• potassium sulfate – 35 g.

In mid-summer, a solution of granular complex mineral fertilizer is taken to feed hydrangeas. For one bush use 2-3 buckets. The fourth time the plant is fed in preparation for winter, using a special fertilizer intended for hydrangeas and not containing nitrogen.

To form the ideal shrub, hydrangeas are pruned. They do this at the end of March, leaving 5–10 developed shoots and shortening them to 3–5 buds. The remaining shoots should be cut to the ground. To rejuvenate an old plant, all shoots are shortened to 6–7 cm from the soil surface; next year it will produce young shoots.

When preparing for winter, paniculata hydrangea in the Urals must be covered. Sometimes this is done in middle lane, if there is a frosty and snowless winter ahead. The root zone is covered with a 20 cm thick layer of dry branches, peat or rotted manure. When snow falls, a snowdrift should be placed under the bush.

Reproduction

Hydrangea paniculata is propagated in two ways:

• cuttings;
• layering.

Cuttings with 4–5 buds that remain after pruning in the spring are placed in a weak solution of “Kornevin” for two days and planted in a garden bed, deepening the cut by two buds into loose acidic soil. They need to be protected from bright sun, and the soil should be moistened regularly so that it does not dry out. After leaves appear on the cuttings, the shading is gradually removed. Next summer, the first flower stalks must be removed so that the plant can direct all its energy to growing the root system. On permanent place cuttings are planted when they are 4–5 years old.

Reproduction by layering is very easy way. In the spring, a low-growing shoot of a young bush is bent to the soil, pinned to it and the place of fixation is sprinkled with peat or fertile soil. The cuttings are watered and covered with spruce branches for the winter. It is separated from the mother plant the following spring and transplanted into a garden bed for growing.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea paniculata can suffer from diseases and pests. Most often, aphids and powdery mildew cause trouble for her. To get rid of aphids, use garlic infusion. To prepare it, add 250 g of crushed cloves to a bucket of water and leave for two days. After this, add 50 g of grated laundry soap, mix and process the bush in such a way that not only the upper side of the leaves is wet, but also the lower side. The procedure is carried out once a week until the aphids disappear. If this method does not help, use acaricidal drugs - "Aktellik", "Aktaru" or "Akarin".

To cure powdery mildew, the plant is treated with a solution of Fundazol or 1% Bordeaux mixture. This should be done several times every 10–12 days.

The plant grows quickly and can bloom as early as next year, but for this you need to create the necessary conditions when landing.

But before lush flowers cover the bush, you need to know how to plant hydrangea correctly so that it pleases the eye with its luxurious clusters.

Choosing the time to land

It is best to plant hydrangea in the spring, as it will have time and conditions for it to take root and take root. If climatic conditions allow planting in early spring, this is the best time; perhaps even in the year of planting, hydrangea will delight you with its flowering.

Possible landing option autumn time. Although the bushes of this plant tolerate the cold season well, it is still a good idea to insulate it for the winter, especially if the hydrangea is planted in the fall.

Fortune's euonymus on our backyard plot -

Pest and disease control

Hydrangeas, like all plants, can be affected by various diseases and pests. If the owner of the garden wants to have healthy flowering plants, he must definitely take care of medicines for them.

What diseases can affect paniculata hydrangea, and what remedies can be used against them?

Powdery mildew on hydrangea leaves

The most common disease of this plant is powdery mildew.

To rid him of this scourge, you need to use a solution of foundationazole with water, in proportions of 20-25 g per 10 liters. Another remedy is Bordeaux mixture 80-100 g per 10-12 liters. water.

Another misfortune of hydrangea - aphid.

Regular garlic, from which the tincture is made, will help cope with it. The process of its preparation consists of crushing 250 g of peeled garlic and pouring 8-10 liters of water. The tincture sits for two days, then add 50 g of softened laundry soap, mix well - and the medicine is ready.

You need to spray the plant with this mixture once a week until there is no trace left of the pest.

All parts of hydrangeas contain cyanogenic glycosides - toxic substances. Be careful when handling these plants.

How to prepare paniculata hydrangea for winter?

No matter how resistant these bushes are to cold winters, it is still better to make sure that the plant overwinters safely.

To do this, it is necessary to cover the roots, as they are more vulnerable to frost. Rotted manure is perfect for this, it good insulation. Peat and dry leaves are also perfect for insulating hydrangeas, but they need to be laid under the bush in a thick layer, about 15-20 cm.

If everything is done correctly, cold weather will not pose a great danger to the roots of the plant.

Useful tips and some secrets of caring for paniculata hydrangea.

These flowers can serve as room decoration in winter. To do this, you can make a winter bouquet from inflorescences. When all the flowers in the inflorescence bloom, you need to carefully cut it off and place it for drying in a dark room, hanging it with the inflorescences down.

There is one secret that will help change colors bush flowers. How to get, say, blue hydrangea? It is not so difficult. When watering, you need to add iron salts to the water and increase the acidity of the soil. additional contribution peat Aluminum alum will help enhance the blue color.

Another little secret. If you want it to seem like colorful inflorescences bloomed on one bush, you need to do several procedures.

1. First, you need to place a large flowerpot on the ground. If it is square, then its size should be approximately one square. m., height - 50-70 cm.
2. Secondly, divide it in half inside with a partition and fill each part with fertilized soil.
3. Thirdly, it is good to pour the soil in one part of the flowerpot with coloring compounds, and leave the second part with just fertilized soil, and plant a bush of pink hydrangeas in each part.

Victor Sergeev

Hydrangea paniculata can often be found in gardens country houses and summer cottages. Its main feature is abundant flowering, unpretentiousness, frost resistance. Therefore, if you don’t have time to spend all your time in the garden, but want to make it unusual, then hydrangea will come in handy.

. It was named paniculate because of its inflorescence. Hydrangea inflorescences are large, sometimes reaching a length of 30 cm. The plant has two types of flowers: bisexual and sterile. The first ones are slightly smaller; after pollination, the petals fall on them. The second ones are larger, up to a maximum of 3 cm each, they remain on the bush for a long time.

From the beginning to the end of flowering, the flower changes its color, ranging from cream to pink and even red.

Characteristics of hydrangea:

• Hydrangea Laimlat – shrubby plant, it is very neat, not sprawling, the maximum height and width is 2 meters.
• The plant grows and develops very quickly; it can add 25 cm per year (provided that it is given proper care and the location is suitable).
• Hydrangea is famous not only for its flowers, but also unusual leaves. Their structure is velvety and soft. The leaves themselves are large, bright in color, sharp at the ends, located close to each other and completely cover the branch of the bush.
• The shape of the limelight hydrangea bush is preserved without any supports, while in some other varieties large inflorescences bend the branches with their weight.
• With the onset of autumn, the leaves change color to purple, making the lime hydrangea even more beautiful and unusual.
• In autumn, sterile inflorescences still remain, which during this period have green color, then gradually turn yellow, and by the end of the season they turn white.
• The flowering period lasts from July-August to October.

Landscape designers take advantage of the peculiarity of hydrangea flowering: when the garden has already faded, hydrangea is just entering its most decorative period.

The name of the variety comes from the shade of the inflorescence - the color of lime, which they acquire at the beginning of the flowering period. If the site is too sunny, the flowers will be white, which will turn pinkish by October.

The main requirements for growing: sunny area, moist, fertile soil (possibly loose and acidic), lack of lime in the soil, tolerates winter well.

It was the Limelight variety that gardeners recognized as the most beautiful and persistent among other paniculate hydrangeas.

Hydrangea paniculata loves a moist habitat:

• This does not mean that it needs to be overwatered, although it does well in marshy soils.
• In order for the bush to grow strong and the inflorescences to be lush and numerous, you need to water the hydrangea within a radius of 1.5 meters.
• If the weather remains hot, be sure to water the bush regularly.
• An important issue is the choice of soil. For hydrangea, loamy, acidic soil is best.
• If the soil is alkaline, the risk of leaf chlorosis and poor flower growth increases.
• If the soil is slightly acidic, then it is advisable to add ammonium sulfate or iron sulfate to it; the acidity will increase even after adding peat and coniferous litter.

It is better to plant hydrangea in partial shade, since bright open sun negatively affects the growth of the plant and inflorescences.

Hydrangea does not like drafts and wind, so it is better to plant it near the walls of buildings or hedges. Don’t be afraid to grow hydrangea in urban areas; it tolerates gas pollution well. If the winter is harsh, then the hydrangea is protected from frost, but if the winter is mild, then shelter is not required. If leaves or entire shoots are damaged by cold and die, they will quickly recover by summer.

A prerequisite for the development of hydrangea is pruning at the end of winter or beginning of spring.

It is important not to miss this period, since if you trim the shoots too late, this can harm the health of the bush; as a result, it will be sensitive to the development of diseases and may not bloom. In general, pruning not only increases the immunity of hydrangeas, but also enhances the growth of shoots, the bush becomes more lush.

Then they are paid once every two weeks mineral fertilizers, once a month – organic. This is done from the beginning of spring to the end of July. Already in August, feeding is stopped. To make the shoots stronger, once a month a solution of potassium permanganate is added to the ground (0.5 grams of potassium permanganate per bucket of water).

Reproduction and planting of hydrangea

Hydrangea propagates in several ways:

• By cuttings.
• Dividing the bush.
• Seeds.
• Vaccination.

The optimal time is mid-July, when hydrangea is at its peak of flowering. Cuttings are taken from annual lateral shoots; they are small and soft, not yet lignified. To choose a suitable shoot, you need to bend it; the correct one will not break. If the spruce shoot is thick and fragile, it has already formed wood, then it will either take root poorly or will not be suitable for propagation at all.

You can carry out cuttings in June, then the cuttings should be taken with part of last year's shoot.

For rooting, take a moisture-intensive substrate, which consists of two parts peat and one part coarse sand. Peat is necessary to undergo a slightly acidic reaction in which roots will begin to grow. Adding sphagnum moss will increase soil moisture.

Features of cuttings6

• The cuttings are deepened into the mixture by 2-3 cm, they should be at a distance of about 4 cm from each other, the cuttings should be placed with a slight slope.
• The ambient air temperature should be within 20 degrees; if all the above conditions are met, rooting will occur within a month.

Reproduction by dividing the bush is a little simpler:

• In early spring or autumn, the bush is completely removed from the ground and divided into several parts, most often 2 or 3.
• It is important to ensure that each new shrub has several renewal buds left.

For many plants this is a rather difficult task, the same applies to hydrangeas, and propagation by seeds is not suitable for varietal plants.

The seeds are laid out on the surface of a substrate with a slightly acidic reaction. The soil must consist of the following components:

• Coarse sand.
• Peat.
• Humus.
• Leaf soil.

If you sow in spring, seedlings can be seen within a month.

In order for development to follow the right path, young hydrangeas are fertilized complex fertilizers. In the fall, the seedlings can be transplanted into open ground, and a good shelter is provided for the first winter.

Hydrangeas are transferred to a permanent place on the site only when they are 5 years old. To do this, you will need a hole 40 cm deep and 60 cm wide. If you plan to make hedge, then a meter strip is dug for this.

At first, the distance between the bushes is no more than a meter, but adult plants need 2.5 m.

Planting time varies depending on the planting area; in the north it is done in spring, in the south in spring and autumn. To protect hydrangea from overheating and weeds, the tree trunk needs to be mulched. Mulch is made from peat, bark and wood chips; this entire mixture is laid out in a uniform layer of 10 cm around the bush.

Uses of hydrangea:

• Hydrangea looks great in any garden and is often used in projects landscape designers. The type and variety of shrub can be selected depending on the desired composition.
• Most often, the plant is used as a single plant and simply planted on the lawn; group composites and hedges are also made from hydrangea. The large size of the shrub gives the garden solemnity.
• Hydrangea is most often used to create a Russian style; it is planted in pairs with lilac, willow, birch, maple, etc. The most common combination of this shrub with any conifers. Looks great with different flowering perennials, for example peonies, irises, roses.

Any gardener can control the shade of hydrangea inflorescences.

Cream or pink color You can make it blue or blue when changing conditions. And the point is not at all in the variety itself, but in the composition of the soil. If the soil is slightly alkaline, the flowers will be pale or bright pink; if the soil is acidic, the flowers will grow blue. White petals do not change color.

This occurs due to the fact that the shrub does not receive the necessary iron in an alkaline environment. If it is necessary to grow blue hydrangeas, then a solution of iron salts is added to the soil; any iron objects or shavings can be placed under the bush. Get bright color, will only work if the original one was also bright.

There are such representatives when both blue and pink flowers grow on the same bush.

More information can be found in the video.

This flowering bush can often be seen in the gardens of country houses and not summer cottages. The main features that distinguish paniculata hydrangea from other flowers are frost resistance, richness of species and varieties, ease of care, frost resistance and abundant flowering. If you do not have time for long and frequent work in the garden, but have a desire to decorate it, planting a bush will optimal solution.

What is Hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea paniculata is one of the largest species of shrub, developing in the form of strong, dense branches. Among hydrangeas, there are also multi-stemmed trees reaching a height of 10 m, but most varieties stop growing when they reach 1.5-3 meters. Paniculate hydrangea has a rounded crown and develops quickly (annual growth is 25-30 cm). The leaves of the flower reach a length of 12 cm, covered with a weak edge on the upper part and a strong vein on the lower side. The leaf shape is ovoid or oval.

The main decoration is not foliage, but dense, wide pyramids of panicles reaching 25 cm in length. The inflorescences have two types of flowers: small fruit-bearing, inconspicuous ones and beautiful large sterile ones. U different types their ratio, as well as the density of their arrangement, differ greatly, due to which the structure of the panicles is very diverse.

Hydrangea paniculata and tree-like - differences

Two most popular garden varieties- This is paniculate and tree-like. Both plants have a lot of positive qualities, but they also have disadvantages:

1. Treelike - is a typical shrub, in contrast to paniculate flower, which is more similar in shape to a multi-trunked or single-trunked tree.
2. Paniculata - considered winter-hardy because it tolerates low temperatures well. Young shoots gain strength by autumn and are completely overgrown with bark, thanks to which they are not afraid of even the harsh Russian climate. The tree-like variety does not have this ability, so in winter the young shoots freeze off without having time to get stronger. Next time warm season the flower sends out fresh shoots again.

The best varieties

The inflorescences are able to gradually change their color, while most varieties of shrubs have a very pleasant smell, which is felt during group plantings of shrubs. Without exception, all representatives of this type of flowers are honey plants. The best varieties are described below paniculata hydrangea, which will not leave any gardener indifferent.

Grandiflora

The flowers are collected in large beautiful inflorescences-panicles of a pyramidal shape. During flowering they have a creamy white tint, at the peak they become snow-white, and towards the end summer season take on a pinkish tint. In autumn the grandiflora is greenish-red. Grows actively in urban environments, prefers partial shade, but only with abundant watering, since it is a moisture-loving plant. It is recommended for young seedlings to cover the tree trunk for the winter. The average height of grandiflora is 2 meters.

Ease of care and lush flowering ensured this variety great popularity. Frize Melba is distinguished by a spreading crown, unusual pointed shape of leaves, and vertical shoots. Compared to other species, this one grows slowly, but when proper care can reach 2 meters in height. Frize Melba's inflorescences have a spectacular play of tones: at first they are milky, then they change color to soft pink, and by the end of flowering they become wine-red.

Often there are three on one bush at once different shades. The branches have a dense structure, so they do not need garter. In order for the inflorescences to develop large, short pruning is carried out every spring. Frize Melba does not require winter shelters and loves lime, which is added to the soil when planting in small quantities. Seedlings require abundant watering.

It is distinguished by its compactness and density of branches. The shoots are red-brown in color, the leaves are drooping, especially along the veins. The flowers of Sunday Fries start out white and turn pink-lilac in late summer. Sunday Fries blooms with large pyramid-shaped inflorescences up to 30 cm in diameter, reminiscent of an ice cream cup in shape, for which gardeners nicknamed this paniculate hydrangea “strawberry ice cream.” This species is resistant to diseases, pests, and is also frost-resistant. Sunday Fries prefers fertile soil and partial shade.

Weems Red

This species has conical inflorescences, the length of which reaches 35 cm, and has a pleasant honey aroma. From the beginning of flowering until frost, they gradually change shade: from white to pink, and then deep red. Weems Red loves bright light, but can also grow in partial shade. It does not need shelter for the winter, feels more comfortable in acidic soils and, growing on them, has a more saturated color.

A low species, similar to Lime light hydrangea with its inflorescences, which at the beginning of flowering have green tint, and by the end of the process they become pinkish. These two species differ strikingly only in size. It winters well without shelter (young weak shoots, however, should be wrapped), loves moisture, drained and fertile soil.

The most beautiful varieties of paniculata hydrangea necessarily include this type flower. Pink Diamond grows on a tall, straight shoot, the leaves of the variety are rough, light green, and the inflorescences are large. At first the buds are white, then turn pink, and by the autumn season they acquire a crimson color. Needs heavy pruning in spring. Pink Diamond tolerates winter well, but at a young age it is better to provide shelter for the cold season.

The shrub is distinguished by its tall growth (reaches 2.5 meters), rounded crown and pyramidal paniculate inflorescences, the length of which is about 20-25 cm. Kyushu is often grown in city parks and on personal plots. The flowers are snow-white in color and exude a very pleasant aroma. Distinctive feature of this variety is the arrangement of glossy, rich green leaves on the red cuttings, which turn yellow in the fall. Kyushu grows quickly, requires soil moisture, and is attractive to insects.

Magical Candle

This spreading shrub has serrated, elongated leaves and large pyramidal inflorescences with a pleasant aroma. It blooms in white-cream color. After the inflorescence acquires a creamy tint (sometimes giving off a greenish color). Gradually, the flowers acquire a pinkish color, and in September they turn crimson. Magical Candle loves partial shade and acidic soil, and tolerates pruning and frost well.

Bobo

It is distinguished by its beauty and ease of care. Its flowering begins in July and ends in autumn. During this time, the buds change their color from yellowish to pale pink. Bobo inflorescences are cone-shaped. Due to its low growth, the bush is suitable for growing in containers that can be kept on summer terrace or balcony. It is advisable that this be a semi-shaded place, since in the bright sun the inflorescences become smaller, and it is important to protect Bobo from gusty winds.

Landing

Not even experienced gardeners They can easily grow this beautiful flower on their site, since caring for it does not require any special skills. It grows quickly, inflorescences form on the shoots even in the year of planting. Gardeners recommend choosing areas with good and bright lighting, but some varieties prefer partial shade. When planting, you need to take into account that if a flower grows in direct sun, the buds lose the ability to change their color, they may turn pale and fade.

The soil

To ensure abundant flowering when growing hydrangeas, planting should be done on fertile, red soil, loamy soil. The plant does not like sandy ones, alkaline soils and grows poorly on neutrals. At the same time, the color of the leaves and buds may fade, and the bush will be weak. Hydrangea paniculata grows better on acidic soil, then the color of the flowers is bright and many panicles are formed. If the soil on your site is not acidic enough, you can add sawdust, brown peat or pine soil to it. Ash or lime is not added to this crop.

When to plant

It is better to plant paniculate hydrangea in the spring (in the first half) or in September, if this happens in open ground. The first option is preferable because in this case probability active growth and the development of a healthy plant is higher. You can purchase suitable seedlings at flower exhibitions, fairs, specialized garden stores, and nurseries. When planting in the fall, there is a risk that cold weather will prevent the flower from taking root in its new place.

The time of planting determines which year it will bloom. So, provided there is a warm climate, the flower is planted in early spring (in March), then paniculate hydrangea will produce buds already in the year of planting. In the northern regions, it is better to root the shrub when the soil has already warmed up a little (in April) so that it takes root well. You can plant it in the fall, but then the flower should be insulated for the coming winter. In the latter case, the bush will bloom the next year.

How to plant correctly

Young shoots are planted in a permanent place at 4-5 years. The roots grow in breadth, extending far beyond the crown, so the place needs to be prepared based on this. How to plant paniculata hydrangea? Experienced gardeners advise:

• form holes for the flower measuring 50 by 50 cm, in the presence of strongly developed roots, the depth of the hole can reach 80 cm;
• the gaps between plants (if you are planting several bushes at once) should be 2-2.5 m;
• the planting hole is watered abundantly (up to 3 buckets of water are poured inside) and left overnight so that the moisture has time to be absorbed into the soil;
• in the morning the hole must be filled with a substrate of peat, fertile soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 2:2:1:1;
• here you should add a mixture of organic and mineral fertilizers (for example, 25 g of potassium sulfate and urea along with 65 g of superphosphate);
• before planting, the roots and the length of annual shoots are shortened, leaving only 3-5 pairs of buds;
• After preparation, the seedling should be placed in a hole, crushed with soil, covered with a compost layer and peat.

Care

Ornamental shrub with spreading stems, straight shoots and opposite leaves that form a standard-shaped crown. Metallic hydrangea is unpretentious, so it can grow even in harsh climatic conditions and polluted areas near highways. However, to get healthy plant with large flowering pyramids, you need to provide it with suitable care. If you properly care for the flower, the buds will last from June until mid-autumn.

Watering

All types of hydrangea love moisture, so the soil around them should always be moist. Hydrangea paniculata needs to be watered frequently. summer time(daily or every other day), since the soil should never be allowed to dry out. The rest of the time, watering should be done once a week, which consumes up to 30 liters of water per square meter of soil. During rainy periods, watering is reduced. To maintain moisture in the soil, you should regularly mulch the soil. For flexibility and strength of the crown, sometimes watering is carried out with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

How to trim

Annual pruning of the shrub is mandatory, thanks to which the latter looks lush and blooms profusely. In autumn (October) you should cut off all panicles, weak and old shoots, and branches that grow inside the crown. Only 10-12 of the strongest shoots are left for wintering. Spring pruning is carried out before buds appear. As a rule, adult stems are cut to 2-3 buds, and green shoots are cut to 3-5 buds. This helps to gain strength and bloom profusely by August. If you do not prune, the plant may not produce buds at all.

Fertilizers

Feed the shrub often, since fast-flowering plants require a lot nutritional components. In the fall, add to the soil mineral supplements, in the spring - urea solution (20 g per bucket). At the beginning of the growing season, green fertilizers are applied, for example, from young nettles, and they are diluted with water 1:10. For tall paniculate hydrangea (2 meters) use 1 bucket of solution.

Once every 2 weeks, when watering, you should add mullein infusion (a bucket of manure is diluted with 3 liters of water and infused for 3 days). Before use, 1 liter of infusion must be diluted in a bucket of water. Before flowering, mineral fertilizers are applied every 2 weeks. In August, feeding stops. If the flower was little or not fertilized before releasing the buds, the color of the petals will be faded and few inflorescences will form.

Diseases and pests

Even with high-quality care, there is no 100% protection from diseases or pests. If the plant looks lethargic, then the likely cause may be overheating of the soil and roots located in its upper layer. Since the shrub prefers sunny places, it is necessary to mulch its soil with peat, wood chips or crushed bark to protect the root system from overheating.

If the leaves begin to turn yellow, but the color of the veins does not change, this is a symptom of chlorosis, which develops in an alkaline soil environment. You can cure it by acidifying the soil and feeding the flower with iron sulfate. Other serious diseases that trouble a bush planted in the shade or too thick are:

1. Powdery mildew. It starts with a gray coating on the foliage and gradually affects more and more areas. The leaves darken, wither and fall off. When hit powdery mildew on young shoots, purple spots form on them, after which these parts of the plant die off.
2. Gray rot. The disease is characterized by the appearance of rapidly growing brown spots. In rainy weather, gray mycelium is visible on such spots, and fungal spores are easily transferred to other crops in the garden. This determines the need to treat the disease as quickly as possible.
3. Tracheomycosis wilt. The disease develops from the root system, after which the fungus spreads to the entire vascular system of the bush. As a result, some of the shoots turn yellow and the plant dies.
4. White rot. The roots of the bush suffer from this disease, as a result of which it does not receive the necessary nutrition from the soil, gradually withers and may die.

The listed ailments can be treated using special preparations with a fungicidal effect. In addition to diseases, the plant can be affected by pests, which are controlled using insecticides. The bush can serve as a habitat for:

• snails that eat leaves;
• aphids sucking juices from leaves;
• weevils, leaf rollers, leaf beetles;
• bugs, pennies, sucking the life juices from the plant;
• root-eating nematodes;
• spider mites(the main symptom of the disease is wilting and falling leaves; cobwebs on the underside of the leaves will confirm this diagnosis).

Reproduction

As a rule, the petiole method or propagation by layering is used. For this purpose, take prepared during spring pruning green cuttings, but experienced gardeners recommend cutting them for planting in early June, when the shoots have accumulated the required amount of moisture. Good stuff for cuttings is the one located at the bottom of the table; it is plucked off with your hands, and not with pruning shears. Cuttings are harvested up to 10 cm long and with 3-5 buds, after which they are soaked in a growth stimulator for a couple of days.

When propagating by layering, you need to take into account that this method is less productive than the petiole method. Young flexible branches that grow on the side are taken from the mother bush, after which they are pinned to the ground (for this, a hole 15 cm deep is prepared). In this case, supports in the form of pegs are necessarily used, with which the ends of the branches are tied. The bases of the shoots are sprinkled with a light mixture of peat and soil and the soil is moistened. After the formation of its own roots, they can be separated from the mother bush and planted, given that the plant prefers loose, acidified soils.

How to preserve a bush in winter

Despite the bush’s resistance to temperature changes and cold weather, it is better to take care of its safe wintering in advance. For this purpose, the most delicate, vulnerable part of the plant should be well covered. The optimal insulation material is rotted manure, dry leaves or peat. They are laid in the base in a thick layer (about 20 cm). With the help of such a pillow, the roots will be protected from the cold throughout the entire winter period.

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