Thanks to modern building materials, developers are able to build various options one-story bathhouses with a veranda.

The buildings differ in:

• type of foundation. For such baths, you can use screw pile, columnar, columnar with grillages and shallow strip types of foundations;

  Types of building foundations
  Common types of foundations
  Types of columnar foundation
  

• construction material. Baths can be built from natural sawn, profiled, glued and rounded timber, cement foam blocks and bricks. The use of sandwich panels and frame construction is allowed;

  Log bathhouse
  Bathhouse made of profiled timber
  
  Brick bathhouse
  Bathhouse made of blocks
  
  Bathhouse made of sandwich panels
  
  

• type of roof and roofing coverings. The roof can be gable, flat or pitched. Covers all types of roofing materials - from ordinary asbestos-cement slate and metal roofing to materials based on modified bitumen;

  Types of roofs by shape
  
  

• according to the architectural features of buildings. Detached, attached, with verandas, with attics, with swimming pools, etc.

  Bathhouse extension made of timber
  Bathhouse with gazebo
  
  Bathhouse with summer kitchen
  
  

We no longer remember the differences in furnace designs, the presence autonomous heating, drainage systems. In one article, it is not even theoretically possible to consider all the features of the construction of each bathhouse option; we will consider only one option: a bathhouse made of foam blocks.

When drawing up a project, it is not necessary to contact specialized companies, this is very expensive. It is enough to get acquainted with numerous offers on the Internet and, based on the information received, choose the best option for yourself or create your own individual project. By what criteria do you choose (or draw up) a bathhouse project?

Number of family members. For a family of three to four people, it is enough to have a bathhouse measuring ≈10÷16 m2. Such dimensions allow you to place inside a quite comfortable washing room (≈4 m2), steam room (≈4 m2) and a relaxation room (≈3 m2).

Bathhouse project
Layout option

If your family is larger or you plan to wash in a bathhouse with friends, a bathhouse option with dimensions of ≈20÷30 m2 is suitable. These dimensions make it possible to significantly increase the relaxation room (up to ≈10 m2), the size of the steam room and washing room to 6 m2, and make a separate vestibule at the entrance doors.

It is advisable to make a veranda (terrace) at the same time. What is the difference between a veranda and a terrace? The veranda is glazed and can be insulated. We would not recommend making a veranda; its role is perfectly fulfilled by the rest room. And the terrace will allow you to enjoy fresh air after water treatments. But we only advise, the final decision is yours.

Glazed veranda

Elite bathhouse. Here the imagination is limited only by the capacity of the wallet. You can make swimming pools, a separate Russian steam room and Finnish sauna, recreation rooms and gyms. Such projects cannot be done on your own; you should contact specialized design companies.

Elite bathhouse. Steam room with lighting
Swimming pool in the bathhouse

Luxurious relaxation room in the bathhouse

We will focus only on one fairly simple option baths with a veranda made of foam blocks.

Construction technology for a bathhouse with a veranda made of foam blocks

Of all possible options building structures we choose the simplest one.

1. Shallow strip foundation and drainage system.
2. Gable sloping roof for a bathhouse and a veranda, covered with metal profiles.
3. Interior decoration and floors are made of natural lining and planed boards.
4. Homemade metal stove.
5. Exterior finishing – painting with durable paints.

Stages of work

First you need to make a calculation of the required materials. What will you need?

When making concrete, you will need a certain grade of cement, sand and gravel. To familiarize yourself with the recommended proportions, study the proposed table No. 1.

To calculate the amount of concrete ingredients, use table No. 2

When making concrete with your own hands, no one weighs the ingredients to the nearest kilogram; industrial enterprises use these standards to write off materials.

For our version of the bathhouse, concrete grade 200 is sufficient; it can withstand a load of ≈200 kg/cm2.

Calculate the volume of your foundation and the volume of the foundation for the furnace (if it has one), this will give you the opportunity to determine the amount of all components of concrete. The resulting value needs to be increased by about ten percent, which will cover possible errors and waste.

For the box you need to purchase foam blocks. To lay one cubic meter of blocks, approximately 0.2 m3 of cement-sand mortar is required, keep this in mind. To calculate the number of blocks, you need to divide one cubic meter by the volume of one block. For example, with a block size of 200×300×600 mm, its volume is 0.036 m3, therefore, for a cubic meter of masonry you will need 27.8 pieces. (1:0.036).

Using the same method, count the number of floorboards, ceiling and wall boards, plastic linings and roofing coverings. Determine the number and length of sexual and ceiling beams size 100×100 mm, boards for rafters 50×100 mm, slats for sheathing 20×50 mm. The calculations of the amount of roofing materials, insulation and waterproofing materials are no different.

Of course, you need to purchase nails and screws, baseboards, trim, doors and windows. All calculations have been made, materials have been purchased - construction work can begin.

Foundation

We have already decided that we are choosing a shallow-depth tape option.

No.	Description of work	Illustration
Step 1.	Site preparation. The site should be leveled as much as possible along the perimeter of the foundation and the top fertile layer should be removed. Don’t be lazy to level the ground, otherwise you will have to increase the cost of materials and time to build the foundation.
Step 2.	Marking. Very important stage, mistakes made are very difficult to correct, and in many cases impossible. Prepare wooden pegs, tape measure and rope. Drive pegs to fit the dimensions of the outer sides of the foundation and check the corners. They should all be exactly 90°. Pre-mark according to the template. You need to check using diagonals - the length of the two diagonals must be the same. The width of the foundation in our case is 25 centimeters.
Step 3.	Digging a trench. A depth of 60 centimeters is sufficient; to prevent heaving of the earth at the bottom, you need to make a sand cushion 15÷20 cm thick. This is much easier than digging a foundation to a freezing depth; in cold climates it can reach more than two meters. The sand will compensate for the swelling of the frozen ground, and the foundation will be stable. If you are breading an oven with a foundation, prepare a hole for it.
Step 4.	Pouring concrete into the ground. If the soil on your site is dense and the trenches do not collapse, great, concrete can be poured without formwork. If there is sand, you will have to make formwork not only above the ground, but also in the trench. This must be immediately foreseen and the width of the foundation adjusted. The formwork is made from sections, used boards, sheet plywood or moisture-resistant OSB boards. It is very important - fasten the formwork in such a way that it can be easily dismantled later.

It’s ideal to pour the concrete all at once; if that doesn’t work, do the pouring in stages. The main thing is that the concrete is laid in a layer of equal thickness along the entire perimeter, otherwise the strength of the foundation will deteriorate sharply. Don’t forget about tamping; it can be done with special vibrators or homemade “pushes”.

Concrete should be reinforced with periodic profile construction reinforcement Ø 5÷8 mm.

Reinforcement - diagram

Very important: the distance of the reinforcement box between the formwork must be at least 5 centimeters; lift it from the bottom using stones. The reinforcement is tied with wire.

Reinforcement - photo

CONCRETE AND REINFORCED CONCRETE STRUCTURES. BASIC PROVISIONS. SNiP 52-01-2003. Moscow 2004 File for download

Very important. Don't forget to make vents for floor ventilation; without functional natural ventilation, the boards will rot very quickly. To do this, insert pieces of pipe into the formwork or make wooden boxes. The distance between the vents in opposite walls is approximately 1.5÷2 meters. At the same time, leave a hole in one of the corners to drain water.

Production and installation of formwork

The height of the formwork should be slightly greater than the height of the foundation, install the formwork level, securely fasten all the panels to the ground. Remember that it is very difficult to correct a “bulging” foundation.

The work is carried out in the same way as pouring concrete into the ground. With one difference - carefully check the horizontality; construction standards allow a horizontal deviation of no more than one centimeter per five linear meters. In most cases, the surface of the tape will have to be trimmed again. Allow the concrete to cure for at least two weeks, then remove the formwork.

The foundation is ready, you can start laying blocks.

Block laying

Step 1. Marking. Before marking, place two layers of waterproofing on the foundation. IN in this case it does not so much protect blocks from destruction (they are not afraid high humidity) like all wooden elements adjacent to them. Make precise markings of doorways and joints interior walls with external ones. Next, a very important point is the placement of corner lighthouse blocks.

We lay a block in all corners of the building without mortar, level them with maximum accuracy, check the distance between them along the perimeter and always check the corners with a rope. We have already described how to check angles above. The maximum discrepancy between the lengths of the diagonals and the perimeter of the building should not exceed two centimeters; this indicator can be eliminated during laying of the walls. Now you can put the lighthouse blocks on the solution.

Laying the first row of blocks - the result

Step 2. Carefully drive nails into the lighthouse blocks and stretch the rope between them. This will be a template line for height and linearity for the next row of blocks. The rows of blocks should hang slightly over the base, so it will be easier to do later finishing work on the base. Apply a solution 1.5÷2 cm thick to the foundation, then adjust the length of the applied section taking into account the speed of your masonry.

Keep in mind that foam concrete blocks absorb water very quickly, all work should be done quickly. The first row is laid with special care. Firstly, this series is considered basic. Secondly, you do not yet have enough experience to use the “masterful precision eye” instead of the level. The length of the wall is rarely a multiple of the length of the blocks; they will have to be trimmed; use an ordinary hacksaw for this; foam blocks can be cut perfectly with such a simple tool.

Step 3. Do not forget when laying the first row façade walls start laying out the first row of internal walls with binding.

Step 4. Carefully place 3-4 rows of blocks in the corners of the bathhouse and at the junction of the walls, and check their position several times. Next, you will fix a rope at the joints of each row and continue laying along it. In the future, all operations must be repeated: again lay several rows in the corners, pull the rope and build walls.

Step 5. Window openings. When the height of the walls is equal to the height of the windows or doors, make markings along their width and continue laying, taking into account the height of the windows. As a lintel, you can use a metal corner of 50÷50 mm or more, or metal reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm or more, or make a concrete lintel. The ends of the lintels should extend approximately 25÷30 cm onto the walls on each side of the window or doorway.

Step 6 The last two rows need to be reinforced with construction reinforcement Ø 10 mm; lay the rods in two to three rows at an equal distance. Not reaching one row before the end of the masonry, lay ceiling beams 50÷100 mm. Due to attic space will not be used, 50×100 mm boards can be used for the ceiling, the ends of the boards resting on the wall must be insulated with roofing felt. The distance between the beams is 1÷1.5 meters. Place the last top row of blocks. At this point, the box is almost ready; the gables will be walled up after the roof is erected. Windows will need to be made in the gables.

Now you can start building the roof. Ours will have a gable roof with an overhang for the veranda.

Video - Laying floor joists

Video - Rough ceiling

Video - Construction of a bathhouse from foam blocks

Roof

Bathhouse has small sizes, we choose one of the simplest options rafter system- hanging.

Hanging rafters - calculations

Do not forget that the roof will have an overhang; before installing it, you need to fix the vertical supports for the veranda. Measure their exact length and secure it to the foundation using metal corners, check the height again and adjust if necessary. Check horizontality with a rope or hydraulic level.

An example of constructing a veranda - a pillar made of timber

In order for the work to be carried out quickly and safely, it is necessary to lay a temporary (rough) coating on the existing ceiling beams. Use any boards for this; anyway, they will need to be removed later to insulate the bathhouse ceiling. But don’t be too “hacky”; you will need to walk on this temporary ceiling during the construction of the roof.

Mauerlat installation

The rafters will rest on it; for the mauerlat, use a 100x100 mm beam. The timber is laid under the rope along the entire length of the bathhouse and veranda; use roofing felt for waterproofing. Be careful when it comes to waterproofing; the fact is that all cement-based materials tend to absorb atmospheric moisture. And high humidity has a negative impact on wooden structures.

Step 1. Check the position of the top chord of the masonry and, if necessary, straighten it with mortar.

Step 2. Measure the length of the opposite walls and the distance to the outermost vertical support column, and prepare the beam using these data.

Step 3. Place two layers of roofing material on the wall and a beam on it, do all the work along a stretched rope, the mauerlat should be in the middle of the blocks.

Very important! The distance between opposite Mauerlats must be absolutely the same.

Step 4. Securely attach the Mauerlat to the wall. To do this, you can use scraps of reinforcement 30÷40 centimeters long. Before laying the Mauerlats, it is advisable to drill holes in them for metal dowels, the distance between the holes is approximately one meter. Drill the walls along the existing holes and drive in metal dowels. The Mauerlat must be secured firmly; perform all construction operations correctly.

Mauerlats also need to be made for the vertical supports of the veranda. We strongly recommend that one beam overlaps the supports and is tied to the bathhouse frame - this will increase the stability of the structure.

Step 5. Calculate the dimensions of the rafters, make one blank from the boards. It is not advisable to use headstocks for vertical stops; it is enough to just tie them together rafter legs top screed.

For fastening, use nails or self-tapping screws of appropriate length, metal corners and plates. This will greatly speed up and simplify the process of constructing the rafter system. For our rafters, a 50×100 mm board is suitable, the distance between the rafters is 1.2÷1.4 meters, the number of rafters should be more than needed to cover the box - this roof will simultaneously cover the veranda. The angle of inclination of the slopes is within 20÷30°. Do not forget that the rafters should protrude thirty centimeters beyond the walls to drain rain and melt water.

How to make a template? Take boards of suitable length, 20÷25 mm thick, and lift them onto the roof of the bathhouse. Use one nail to overlap at the top, the boards should rotate. First set the angle of inclination “by eye”, drive in a second nail at the top, this will fix the angle of inclination of the rafter legs. Place the template on the mauerlats, mark the joining point, cut the persistent “heels” in these places, and check the position of the rafter legs again. Walk with the template along the entire length of the bathhouse and check the rafters. If everything is fine, you can lower the template to the ground. Using this template, make all the rafters and lift the finished structures onto the roof. Next, the rafter legs can be mounted on the Mauerlats.

Step 6 Install rafters along the edges of the roof, including their extension over the veranda.

Check the position, everything is fine - temporarily fix them from below with any boards or slats of the appropriate length. Pull the rope along the ridge and you can install all the other rafter legs.

Step 7 Nail the sheathing. In our version for roofing a metal profile (profiled sheet) has been selected. The distance between the lathing is approximately 40 centimeters, this is enough to securely fix the sheets. For lathing, you can use slats or inexpensive boards. The latter are preferable - there is less chance of the self-tapping screw not hitting the rail.

Step 8. If you want it, install a hydrobarrier; if you don’t want it, don’t install it. A properly covered roof will not have leaks. In addition, our attic space is not used, so there is no need to insulate the roof.

Step 9 Carefully mark the position of the first row of profiled sheets; the length of the overlap should be at least 10 centimeters. It is advisable to lay the first row without fixing it and check everything.

Step 10 Fasten the sheets one by one using special screws with a rubber gasket, the length of the screws is at least 25 mm. You need to install a special metal curved bar on the skate. You can buy it in a store or make it yourself. Attach snow guards.

Step 11. Hammer the parts of the rafters protruding above the wall with wind boards.

Step 12 Install a drainage system. The brackets need to be fixed to the wind boards; make a slight angle of inclination towards the water receiver. Install vertical pipes after covering the external walls.

In the photo - fastening the gutter

Now you can wall up the gables with blocks, provide windows in them. That's all for the roof. You can begin installing floors and ceilings.

Vido - Pediment masonry

Installing the floor in the steam room

We will lay the floors directly on the floor beams, the distance between the beams is one meter; for the covering, use an ordinary edged planed board approximately 25 mm thick. Before installing the floor, decide on the location of the water drainage, prepare the receiver and draw it outside the perimeter of the bathhouse.

For better water drainage, we will make a slight slope of the floor, 2÷3° is quite enough. to one of the walls, you can buy a factory-made grille or make your own from a piece of sheet aluminum.

Step 1. Make markings and install floor beams from 100x100 mm timber. The ends must be wrapped with roofing felt. Fix the beams in the wall blocks, to do this, drill holes 10 cm deep. Insert the beams into them, seal the cracks with mortar. Don't forget to make a slight incline. In other rooms of the bathhouse, beams are installed in a similar way, only without a slope. To install the floors, you will need to make a stop for pulling them together or buy a ready-made one in the store. This stop is attached to the beam, and a wooden wedge is driven between it and the floorboards for tightening.

Step 2. Nail down the boards one at a time; small gaps can be left in the steam room; in other rooms the floor should be dense.

Step 3. Nail the baseboards, in the corners the baseboards are connected at an angle of 45°, make the cuts as neat as possible.

While there is no need to sand the floorboards, this work will be done at the end of the work after upholstering the walls and installing windows and doors. In other rooms, the floor is installed according to the described algorithm without a slope.

Ceiling installation

For the ceiling you need to take edged boards 20 mm thick; the top of the ceiling can be covered with used material. We recommend using polystyrene foam for insulation. The fact is that mineral wool It is very afraid of high humidity; in such conditions its heat-saving characteristics deteriorate significantly. And using various steam and hydrobarriers is expensive. And they do not provide a 100% guarantee of protection.

Nail boards from below to the ceiling beams, watch the dimensions and avoid distortions. If necessary, leave a hole in the attic. Lay foam sheets, at least five centimeters thick, tightly onto nailed boards and cover with boards on top. If you already know the specific location of the stove and the chimney outlet, leave the holes. It is better, of course, to cover the ceiling with natural lining, but this is quite an expensive pleasure. If you have the financial means, use lining.

Windows and doors

You will not be able to make these designs yourself, optimal solution– order plastic options according to size and install them yourself. In terms of price, durability and quality, plastic windows and doors satisfy most developers, and we chose this option. We'll tell you how to install a plastic window; doors are inserted in the same way.

Step, No.	Description of actions
Step 1.	Clean the perimeter of the window opening from dust.
Step 2.	If the window is large and heavy, then it is better to remove the double-glazed windows; if the weight of the structure does not scare you, then you don’t have to disassemble the windows.
Step 3.	Insert the box into the window opening and secure it to the wall with special dowels. For buildings made of foam blocks, the number of fixation points should be increased; the blocks do not have high physical strength. If it is enough to install two dowels on each side of the box in wood or brick, then foam blocks require at least four. Before fixing, you need to align the box strictly level. Use various supports and wedges during this process. Immediately replace the window sills inside and outside.
Step 4.	Fill the cracks with foam. Very important: foam should be applied only to well-wetted surfaces of the blocks. On dry surfaces the adhesion coefficient is greatly reduced. Unfortunately, most companies involved in window installation skip this operation - for them the main thing is time, not quality.
Step 5.	The next day you need to cut off the excess foam. If you notice any gaps, fill them with mortar and level the surfaces.

That's all, all further work will be done during the cladding of the external and internal walls.

Cladding of external walls

pay attention to comparative characteristics materials for thermal conductivity, we believe that additional insulation is not required for a bathhouse. If you think otherwise, no problem, insulate the bathhouse. Advice - insulate external walls, it is much simpler and cheaper, and the effect is the same. Calculate the total surface area excluding doors and window openings. Buy materials: special glue for foam plastic, dowels and large caps, plastic reinforcing mesh, paint or decorative plaster. For insulation, use foam plastic with a thickness of five centimeters. How to do it?

Step 1. Thoroughly clean the foam block walls from sand and dust.

Step 2. Installation of beacons. Beacons are used during many construction works, do not be “ashamed” to use them. With their help, work is not only speeded up, but its quality is also significantly improved. As beacons, you need to install foam boards at the ends of the bath; glue is used for installation. Stretch a rope between them and check the distance from it to the wall. This distance should include sheets and glue; if there are discrepancies, straighten the wall in problem areas or change the position of the beacons. A specific decision must be made independently, taking into account the size and location of the irregularities.

Step 3. Glue rows of foam plastic along the rope, constantly checking with a level their spatial position in all directions and sides. If you have experience working with tiles, you don’t have to use ropes; control the position of the sheets with a long, even strip. In window and doorways the foam is cut, the cut points are covered with additional elements: special platbands and slats.

Step 4. Practice shows that expensive glue can be saved without compromising quality. Apply it in the corners and center only for preliminary installation of the foam board; final fixation is performed with special dowels after the glue has hardened, usually the next day. It is the dowels that will hold the insulation.

Step 5. If the surfaces are very uneven, gradually level the rows; the gaps between the slabs can be foamed.

Step 6 Secure the boards with dowels. One dowel should hold one corner of the foam board, another dowel should be installed in the center of the board. A total of five dowels are needed per slab. Some builders try to save money and use one dowel to hold all the corners of four adjacent adjacent sheets of foam plastic. This saving method is risky, decide for yourself whether to use it or do everything according to the rules.

Step 7 Reinforcement plastic mesh. Please note that the thickness of the glue must be at least 5 millimeters, otherwise you will not be able to completely hide the mesh. The mesh should be hidden by painting with fade-resistant paints (facade). If decorative plaster is planned in the future, there is no need to embed the mesh.

Interior wall cladding

Before covering, electrical wiring must be done; electrical cables must be protected with metal sleeves. The cross-section of current-carrying conductors is selected taking into account maximum load and power reserve. Always make a reserve of at least 3–4 kW, this will allow you to safely use additional electrical household appliances or heaters.

For the steam room, be sure to use natural lining; all other rooms can be finished with any building materials. Let's consider the most complex option for wall decoration - natural lining.

Step 1. Mark the wall, determine the places where you will fix the vertical slats. The dimensions of the slats are 20–50 mm, the distance between them is approximately 50 centimeters.

Important: special dowels are available for foam blocks, do not use ordinary ones!

Step 2. The slats should be installed level; if there are large irregularities on the wall, they need to be removed. Small irregularities can be eliminated with various supports for the slats.

Step 3. Fasten the two outer slats, stretch the thread between them and install all the rest along it.

Step 4. Check the distance from the floor to the ceiling in the corners. If there is a difference, then saw off the first panel at the desired angle to level the horizontal position. It is better to do this at the bottom of the wall, where it is less noticeable.

Step 5. Use small nails to secure the paneling; hammer the nails into the groove at an angle. Make sure all nails fit into the batten. The length of the nails is approximately 2 cm.

Step 6 Beat around the perimeter of the entire room, attach a special wooden corner to the corners to align the cuts. Secure skirting boards and baguettes (on the floor and ceiling).

Some rooms can be finished with sheet plywood, OSB boards or plasterboard. Before starting upholstery work, you need to perform the same complex preparatory work and fastening the supporting frame, as for lining.

Install rainwater drainage pipes. This completes the largest and most labor-intensive construction work. You can start installing the stove, shelves for the steam room, various shelves and benches for bath equipment. And then paint or plaster decorative plaster façade walls.

Video - Project of a one-story VIP bathhouse with a large terrace and barbecue area

Few of us can afford to build a luxurious bathhouse according to an individual project using a hired team. It is very expensive. Therefore, in most cases, the project is “drawn on the knee,” and all work is carried out with minimal involvement of third parties. And not everyone immediately thinks of building a bathhouse with a veranda, limiting themselves to only the most necessary: ​​the main room and the dressing room.

But over time, it becomes clear that a spacious extension to the bathhouse will not be superfluous at all, especially in the summer. It can replace a gazebo and become a place of attraction for soulful company. What to do if there is already a bathhouse, but no veranda? Build!

If you decide to do everything yourself, then start with a project. You can look at the finished product on specialized websites. But it is unlikely that any of them will suit you completely, because you need to take into account the parameters of the existing structure.

Namely:

• Its shape and size;
• Location on the site in relation to the house and cardinal directions;
• Location of window and door openings;
• Roof shape;
• The presence of trees, ponds, or some structures nearby. For example, wells, cellars, etc.;
• Your financial capabilities.

Of course, you can get confused and remodel the bathhouse or cut down the interfering trees. But if this is not part of your plans, it is better to draw your own project. Since the veranda to the bathhouse is a light structure, without any frills or communications, this will not be difficult to do.

Choosing the shape and location of the veranda

To make the future structure as convenient as possible for use, think about where it should be located and what it should be like. More specifically: which wall to attach it to. Or maybe not just one, but make a corner or a structure encircling the entire bathhouse.

It all depends on the availability of free space and your determination to spend a certain amount of time, effort and money on construction.

Look at the examples below.

There are many options in terms of shape, design or size. But if we are to start such a thing, then let it be a bathhouse with large veranda. So that it serves not just as an entrance group, but as a full-fledged place for pleasant relaxation and communication with loved ones.

Advice. In a large area it will be possible to place not only a table with chairs or sun loungers, but also a barbecue. Or arrange a room for overnight guests.

When deciding on the size and location of the veranda, consider the following tips:

• If the bathhouse is located close to the house, it can be located between them, connecting the two buildings into one. This will allow you to comfortably use the steam room in any weather without going outside.
• It is better to make the main entrance from the south side so that it is not covered with snow in winter.
• The veranda may have additional exits, for example, to the garden or to the pool.
• If you are new to construction, it is better to avoid complex forms, as this will entail difficulties when joining frame elements and installing a roof. Besides rectangular shape the most comfortable and ergonomic.

Selecting materials

As for the walls, there are no questions: usually the extension is made of wood. And because baths are mainly built from this material, and because wood is inexpensive, easy to process and looks great. Even if the bathhouse is brick, it will still look great in an ensemble with it.

So the choice is most often made between timber, rounded logs or a frame structure covered with clapboard or blockhouse.

It is important! The wood must be dry, otherwise it will shrink greatly, which will lead to deformation of the structure and its subsidence relative to the main structure.

It is best to choose the same covering for the roof as on the bathhouse, especially if the roof is shared. But options are also possible. For example, if the veranda is planned to be used for sunbathing, it can be covered with transparent polycarbonate (see).

Special attention material for foundation construction. But this question is closely related to his design features, so it's worth a closer look.

How much does design cost?

In general, it makes no difference what kind of object: a house, a bathhouse or a garage you are going to build, since the price is not per project, as a commodity unit, but in the form of a service tariff per square meter. On average, it is 300-350 rubles. for the development of a preliminary design, and 500-600 rubles. for drawing up the working draft.

If you also need drawings for utility networks, this will be paid additionally. But in general, 20,000 rubles is the minimum amount that you will have to pay if the bathhouse is small.

For this money you will receive:

• Image of an object in perspective;
• Foundation plan;
• Floor plan with equipment arrangement;
• Roof plan;
• Facades;
• Cuts;
• Explanatory note.

If the building is non-standard, with complex architectural elements, then most likely there will be an extra charge of around 100 rubles/m2. The tariff will increase by approximately the same amount if, after approval, you decide to alter anything in the finished project.

The completeness of the documentation included in the detailed design depends on the material chosen for construction.

If this is, for example, a log, then you will get:

• General plans of the log house;
• Detailed wall layouts;
• TK ( technological maps), along which the crowns are assembled;
• Two specifications of logs: general, and cutting by crowns;
• Plan for laying floor joists;
• Ceiling beam plan;
• General view of the roof frame with the specification of all elements;
• Roof developments;
• Specification of windows, doors, and terrace elements.

Visits by a specialist from a design organization, or supervision of the project implementation process, are paid for under a separate agreement.

Construction prices

Since we have given the example of a log bathhouse, then in terms of construction prices we will be guided by this option.

The prices in the table are indicated for work from the contractor’s materials:

Type of work	Estimated cost
Foundation	For a wooden bathhouse, like for any other building, a traditional foundation is built. If it is a monolithic version, you will have to pay about 16,000 rubles for its production. for 1m3. A metal foundation made of screw piles will cost at least 4,000 per support.
Grillage	A wooden grillage will cost 850-1000 rubles. for 1m.p. + 250 rub. for installation of the backing board.
Preparation of lumber	If you decide to purchase untreated wood and order its preparation, it will cost: Rounding of logs - about 8000 rubles per 1 m3; Production of profiled timber - 11800 rub/m3. Prices vary depending on the diameter or cross-section of the lumber.
	The assembly of the crowns is carried out from blanks, in which special selections must be made to ensure the joining of the logs. The cutting of joints is carried out in different ways, and depending on the complexity and execution, the price also varies. Thus, the “Canadian bowl” felling that you see in the picture costs at least 11,500 rubles/m3. Norwegian “carriage” felling is even more expensive – from 15,800 rubles/m3.
Assembling a log house	Work on the installation of bathhouse structures is paid approximately as follows: Assembly of a log house – 4000 rub./m3; Installation of logs and ceiling beams - 700 rubles/m2; Installation of the roof depends on its structure and type of covering, and can cost either 2000 or 4000 rubles/m2; Caulking of inter-crown seams – 85 rubles. per meter Sanding wall surfaces – 300 rub./m2; Wall tinting – from 110 rubles/m2. Fastening elements: staples, dowels, etc., as well as insulation and waterproofing - this is a separate expense item.

Stage two – construction

When verandas combined with a bathhouse are built, the main task becomes the integrity of the future overall structure. It is necessary that the buildings do not “walk” relative to each other, and this can be achieved only by correctly making a load-bearing foundation - the foundation.

We select and build a foundation

The veranda is a relatively light structure that does not require a powerful foundation. The easiest and cheapest way to make a foundation for it is columnar. Foundation columns are installed under all corners of the building and under all intermediate posts, as well as under floor joists with a distance between them of 1-2 meters, depending on the thickness of the joists.

The pillars are made from different materials. But in any case, they need to be buried to the full depth of soil freezing.

You can also make combined pillars. For example, the underground part is made of concrete, and the above-ground part is made of bricks or blocks. It is necessary to lay a sand or gravel cushion under the base, compacting it well.

Other options for foundation construction are possible:

• If the wall to which the veranda is attached is strong, it is not necessary to fill the pillars along it. The support beam of the lower harness can be attached directly to it.

• The posts can be replaced with screw piles. This will speed up the work, since you won't have to wait for the solution to set. In addition, it is easier to level the piles.

• A strip foundation is also a possible, but more expensive and time-consuming solution. It is used when the bathhouse is already on such a foundation and you want to create a complete picture. In this case, the new “tape” must match the existing one in depth, width and height. In addition, the old and new foundations are fastened to each other using reinforcement, which is placed in specially drilled holes.

Any foundation other than a pile foundation must be given time for the solution to harden and gain strength. Only after this can you continue working.

We build the frame

Since it is easiest to build a frame veranda, we will describe this method.

Construction begins with the installation of the lower trim - grillage. It can be made from 10x15 cm or 15x15 cm timber. Before laying wooden elements on it, it is necessary to lay waterproofing, for example, sheets of roofing felt.

It is important! Timber and other wooden structural elements, to which access will be limited after completion of construction, must be treated with an antiseptic before installation.

The beams are attached to the foundation with anchors, and connected to each other by a “half-tree” cut - by cutting out grooves. At the same time, grooves are also made for the frame posts, although the instructions allow for a simpler approach and fix them with galvanized corners. And so that the racks stand vertically and rigidly before the installation of the upper trim, they are temporarily supported by jibs.

The racks are installed with such a step that between them there are in the right places it was possible to install window and door frames. That’s why you need to draw up a plan in advance so that you don’t have to work with what you got later.

Making the roof and laying the floors

The shape of the roof depends on which wall the veranda is attached to. If from the gable side, then it would be logical to continue, lengthen the existing roof by installing several more rows of rafters.

But you can again do it simpler and make the roof pitched. In this case, on the bathhouse wall under the pediment or roof overhang anchor bolts a horizontal beam is attached. In it, as well as in the outer beam of the upper trim, grooves are cut into which the rafters are laid.

What to make it from:

• From edged boards with a certain pitch, if there is no ceiling on the veranda, and the roof is covered with hard sheet materials - slate or corrugated board.
• From an unedged board, if the ceiling will be hemmed. This will allow you to save a lot, since the price of unedged boards is much lower.

Advice. Select the pitch between the sheathing elements taking into account the strength of the roofing material and its size.

• From edged boards close to each other or from OSB sheets, if you plan to use a soft roll roof.

All that remains is to cover the roof, and this part of the work can be considered completed, since its insulation is not required for such a light summer building.

They are also made with simple single flooring along the joists. The installation method depends on the chosen material and the degree of openness of the veranda.

• If these are wooden boards, then they can be fastened close to each other only if a room is built that is well protected from precipitation and high humidity.
• If this is an open terrace, then it is better to leave 5-6 mm wide gaps between the boards to compensate for the swelling of the wood and deformation of the flooring.

• If as flooring you have chosen a decking board from composite material, not afraid of moisture, then it has its own method of fastening, which may differ depending on the manufacturer.

As in the case of the bottom trim, the bottom plane and ends of the floorboard must be treated with an antiseptic before installation. And after installation, cover the floor with any paint and varnish material that protects it from moisture and is suitable for outdoor use.

Stage three - final

The main work on which the strength and reliability of the structure depends has been completed. You can begin the creative stage of the project: paneling, installation of windows and doors, decorative elements.

If the veranda is closed and glazed, you should start with the installation of transverse beams for installing window frames or double-glazed windows.

Although there are possible options here. Suddenly you want to make the glazing continuous or cover the frame with so-called soft windows - a durable transparent PVC film. There can be many solutions, and each of them has its own technology.

See for yourself:

Having decided on the glazing, you can sheathe the remaining partitions with clapboard, blockhouse, siding or other material. With an open terrace, everything is even simpler - just make railings and fences between the vertical posts. And what they will be - simple or curly - is up to you.

Conclusion

Such a brief and superficial description is unlikely to seem sufficient to those who have never picked up a jigsaw and hammer. I suggest they additionally watch the video in this article and watch live the work of the masters. In any case, if you want to learn how to build with your own hands, it is best to start with such simple structures.

Having spent relatively little effort and money on building a veranda for a bathhouse, you will get a full-fledged and very comfortable recreation area on your suburban area.

Baths have existed in Russia since ancient times. And if earlier in Rus' the task of a bathhouse was to maintain cleanliness, now it is not only a structure for hygienic purposes, but also a wonderful place to relax, as well as a way to emphasize one’s wealth, since not every person can afford a bathhouse. This building is now being built soundly from quality materials so that it is reliable, warm and practical. A modern bathhouse can be a whole complex containing everything that can be found in an ordinary house: a swimming pool, a relaxation room, an open air bath, and the steam room itself.

Standard project one-story bathhouse with living quarters

Nowadays, a bathhouse can have a residential floor, which significantly saves space if the area is small. There may also be a veranda that can be protected from annoying insects and spend summer evenings there in a cool, cozy place. There is an opportunity to place a barbecue on the sauna terrace. Such a platform will be an excellent place to relax and receive guests. The size of such an extension, of course, depends on the capabilities of the site, but you can make it as large as possible or miniature, and when choosing a design for a bathhouse with a terrace, you should focus specifically on the size of the territory and the location of other objects on it.

Bath with large terrace made of laminated veneer lumber with block house finishing

If you want to profitably distribute space, then a bathhouse or a house with a terrace is the most competent solution. You will have an additional area for relaxation, protected from rain and sun, while filled with fresh air. In terms of construction costs, it is not very expensive. The most popular terrace projects are structures under the same roof as the house, as well as in the open air or with glass walls. If you decide to build a bathhouse with a terrace, then this is the right choice, since such construction will cost much less than a separate construction of a bathhouse and a separate gazebo.

Bathhouse with glass veranda

Bathhouse with covered veranda

Classic options

If you are just going to build a bathhouse, and you have a fairly large plot, then you can choose a 6x9 bathhouse design with a terrace: such a bathhouse will be very convenient for a large company or family, and the terrace will have a common foundation with the bathhouse. The building itself will allow you to place inside not only a steam room, but also other attributes home comfort and comfort, and on the second floor of the bathhouse you can arrange a guest room, which will have a large area. A 6x9 sauna can be made from a log frame, rounded logs or laminated veneer lumber, as well as stone materials. It is best to build it from chopped logs, which are more durable and retain heat better. Such projects of houses with a terrace, a photo of one of which is posted below, are quite popular, although they are more expensive. You can view a review of a log bath here:

Construction of a log bathhouse 6×9 with a veranda

If you want to expand the living space of the house, then you can add a bathhouse, which can be either a separate building or adjacent to the house.

For such a case, a 6x6 bathhouse project with a terrace is perfect, which will optimally enlarge your home and add a cozy area for summer relaxation. Now in the heat you can be outside and enjoy the fresh air and birdsong. Increasing the space of the house will be done quite competently, since a bath of this size will fit neatly on any site and goes well with any cottage.

Project of a bathhouse with a 6×6 terrace

Corner buildings

In addition to standard buildings, the project is becoming very common corner bath with a terrace, which is considered a fairly new find in construction. This building has a unique shape. Such a bathhouse will take up much less space on the site, while due to its angular shape it will be quite spacious inside. Such a bathhouse needs to be built with a terrace, then it fits harmoniously into the design of the entire building as a whole. It can be built from almost any materials: the choice is mainly determined by the financial capabilities of the owner, as well as the compatibility of the finished type of bathhouse with other buildings and the house.

Model and design of a corner bath

Corner baths are often built when it is necessary for the building to be located close to the cottage. Terraces adjacent to the house can be of a standard shape - rectangular, square. However, it is the corner design that is distinguished, first of all, by its convenient and ergonomic placement, thanks to which the layout of the site becomes the most logical and beautiful. In addition, such a solution will help not only to correctly distribute the free space on the site, but also to tidy up the area adjacent to the house. It's nice to relax on the terrace in warm weather, and now even rain won't stop you from enjoying warm summer days. There are designs of corner terraces of different prices and sizes, so choosing the right one will not be difficult.

Bathhouse adjacent to the house

Modern designs of verandas and terraces are suitable not only for country houses and baths, but also for shops, cottages and other objects to which it is technically possible to attach a terrace.

Two-story options with living space

The rational use of the territory of the land plot on which the residential building is located is becoming increasingly important. The plots are usually small, and the owners often want not only to live in a cozy big house, but also place a summer house, a gazebo and, if possible, some other objects for your convenience in your yard. This is especially true if construction is just beginning.

If there is no house on the site yet, but you plan to build a residential building in the future, then it is smartest to start construction with a bathhouse, since it will serve even after the completion of construction work. At first, the bathhouse can serve as summer house, and it can be used for its intended purpose or even store some tools in it. After the house is completed, the bathhouse will fit perfectly into and become a wonderful place for you to relax with friends or family. If you start construction with the construction or delivery of a finished construction trailer, then after it is no longer needed, the question will arise of how to remove it from the site, and this is an unnecessary and completely unnecessary problem. Therefore, it is better if a bathhouse appears on the site first. Two-story projects with a terrace are the most relevant; if you are planning further construction, want to get another additional room in which you can relax or accommodate guests, or want to save useful space on the site, then this design is ideal.

Wooden two-story bathhouse

Bath cottages with terraces

A cottage with a large terrace and indoor bathhouse facilities is not only beautiful, but also comfortable. On the terrace you can organize a gazebo for preparing kebabs and other dishes that require open air for cooking. This extension to the house can be a playground for children, and an excellent place for dancing and gathering guests. You can read or relax there even in bad weather, since the terrace is usually protected from rain and sun. You can hang mosquito nets or make decorative curtains that will protect from wind and flies.

House-bath with a terrace

Inexpensive options

Frame houses with a terrace are the most inexpensive compared to others. Benefits frame houses is that the house is much cheaper in price than its block or brick counterpart, but is not inferior in quality. An important advantage frame construction is also the fact that such a house is built in an extremely short time, which is very important, for example, for a summer cottage or for those people who do not want to delay construction for a long time. The advantage of such construction can be considered that after construction frame house little waste remains. A house design with a large terrace is considered popular: such a design will visually increase the space of the house, but at the same time it will not steal much space from the yard.

Frame house with terrace

If you like classics, you will probably be interested in the projects wooden houses with a terrace. Wooden houses not only have an attractive appearance and do not require interior or exterior finishing, which significantly saves the customer’s money, but also fit perfectly into the landscape of the countryside. Such a house will look great next to a log bathhouse. As a rule, wooden houses are erected quite quickly, while they are unpretentious in operation, do not require heavy equipment for their construction and are erected quite quickly.

Modern house projects with terraces can be used not only for private construction. For example, cafe designs with a terrace have long been popular. The photo can be seen below. They are used mainly in the summer, and the extension allows you to expand the area and move some of the tables outside.

Terrace summer type, attached to the cafe

For most people, going to the bathhouse is not just a ritual of washing, but rest and relaxation. It is for this reason that when designing it, preference is given to multifunctional structures where you can steam, wash, relax or sit at the table with family or friends. The choice of options is huge: these can be bathhouses with an attic and veranda, projects with terraces, swimming pools, recreation areas, etc.

Bathhouse with terrace

Buildings with a terrace are very popular. This is an outdoor area with fencing and flooring connected to the main building. It can be located under a canopy, the roof of a bathhouse, or even be open.

The construction of a bathhouse with a veranda is thoughtful and rational decision, which will not only decorate the appearance of the structure, but will also expand the possibilities of spending time there.

Material for building a bathhouse

Almost any material can be used to build a bathhouse, but wood is most often chosen. Ideal option are coniferous trees because they are more resistant to rot and are easier to process. And if you treat it with modern antifungal and fire-fighting agents, the structure will be fully protected from all troubles.

To build a log bathhouse with a veranda, whole tree trunks are used, cut down using a special technology that has been familiar since ancient times. The assembly of the structure is carried out by perpendicular stacking of logs on top of each other. A groove is made on each of them, and notches are cut out at the ends. Baths built using this technology look very attractive if all the logs are calibrated, that is, they have the same diameter.

Timber is also very popular for building a bathhouse. The cost of such projects is much lower, since its production is completely mechanized. To erect a building, you simply need to cut the timber to the required length and assemble the bathhouse in accordance with the previously prepared foundation contour. Assembly is carried out by placing the timber on wooden pins.

Bathhouse with terrace and barbecue

Not everyone can afford to build a large structure that, in addition to a room for steaming and washing, can also accommodate a rest room. Therefore, for small areas excellent option There will be a bathhouse with a veranda and a barbecue.

This building is multifunctional, as it provides the owner with a full-fledged recreation area, which, moreover, can be equipped with a summer kitchen. Due to the fact that the stove will be located practically in the fresh air, there is no need to install a chimney; you can get by with a small pipe.

As for the base on which the heavy stove will be placed, some recommendations will need to be followed. The best option The foundation for the stove is strip-monolithic, and it must be laid completely both under the walls of the bathhouse and where the barbecue equipment will be located. It should be poured to the height of the floor, since later the stove will be laid on it.

If you plan to use a barbecue rather than a stove, then a pile or columnar foundation is quite suitable. It is connected by a frame made of timber with a cross-section of 150*150 mm, on which it is laid flooring. The area where the grill will be located must be made of fire-retardant material so that the process of preparing barbecue and shish kebab is absolutely safe in the bathhouse with a veranda. Designers offer projects of this kind (there are a huge number of photos) most often, and they are all based on a reliable foundation.

The terrace can be covered and have a common roof with the bathhouse. The rafter system in this case rests on racks, which are components of the frame, and fences can also be attached to them. Basically, all bathhouses are built with a veranda under one roof (photo can be seen below), since this is more convenient and economical.

Bathhouse with a terrace made of profiled timber

Projects from profile beam are very popular because this material is processed on a specialized machine and the output is a smooth, shaped surface. Next, the timber is covered special means, giving the wood a good and natural shade that does not darken during use. Structures made from this material most often do not involve any internal decorative finishing because there is no need for it.

The fences in the project for a bathhouse made of timber with a veranda are laid from the same material as the main building in combination with decorative slats. It looks very natural and aesthetically pleasing. The extension itself can be common, combining the house and the bathhouse. And if it is also glazed, then a kind of corridor is formed between two buildings, which can be equipped for relaxation or to store accessories for a country holiday.

Another interesting project is a veranda attached to the bathhouse, which resembles an outdoor summer cafe. If its area allows, then you can also install a pool table, which will make your vacation not only pleasant, but also active.

Bathhouse with terrace and relaxation room

If you have financial capabilities and the space of the structure allows, then you can choose a bathhouse design with a veranda and a relaxation room. This way you will get a multifunctional and more practical structure. The terrace is used for its intended purpose most often in the warm season, so the presence of a relaxation room will allow you to fully use the possibilities of such relaxation in any weather.

The lounge provides the following benefits:

Year-round holiday in warmth.

No flying insects.

You can install household appliances in the room (music, TV, refrigerator, etc.).

Possibility to equip a room for relaxing with friends (mini-bar, bar counter, billiards, etc.).

The rest room must be included in the project before construction begins. The classic version of the bathhouse consists of a steam room, a washing room and a dressing room. The dressing room is an unheated room, which is intended for changing clothes and storing bath accessories.

IN modern projects instead of a dressing room there is a rest room, which has a permanent structure and common walls with the main bathhouse. Taking on the functions of a dressing room, this room serves as a relaxing place where you can sit at the table with friends and just have a good time. IN summer period From this room you can go out onto the terrace and enjoy the fresh air after steaming. It is not surprising that this particular project is the most popular.

Two-story bathhouse

If it is possible, but the size of the plot does not allow you to build a building with a rest room and a veranda, then you can consider the option of a bathhouse with an attic and a veranda. Such a structure will require much less space, but in terms of functionality it is in no way inferior to the previous one. This option makes it possible to have an additional room if all the rules of insulation and glazing are followed. A solid floor covering, waterproofing, and a pitched roof will be required, but despite all this, such a project is very practical and profitable. You can equip the attic with anything: a billiards room, a bar, a gym, etc.

In addition, you can also equip a living room here when there is nothing on the site except a bathhouse and a shed for storing garden tools. There you can not only relax after gardening in the summer, but also stay overnight after a bath in the winter.

The attic is a room under a broken line gable roof located above the main building. The descent from there is carried out along the stairs, the presence of which will add zest to the interior of the bathhouse with an attic and veranda. Projects of such structures require reinforced floors, since they must support the weight of a person.

Two-story bathhouse with an open attic

This building is ideal for large families and those who like to gather companies; in addition, an equipped room on the second floor will help save land area. An open, ventilated attic is ideal air cushion between the bathhouse and the roof. If desired, you can equip a balcony and sliding doors there.

Bathhouse with terrace 6 by 6

Most often, those who like to gather are interested in this project. big family, invite guests and not worry that there won’t be enough space for someone. Baths of this size generally have two floors, on the first there is a steam room, shower room, bathroom, dressing room, relaxation room and, of course, a terrace, on the second there is a room for playing billiards and guest rooms. Some owners, in order to save space, combine a dressing room with a relaxation room and then combine the style of this room and the design of the veranda in the bathhouse. The result is a single space.

The dimensions of such a building accommodate a large stove, a full-fledged restroom, and if desired, you can even include a swimming pool in the project.

When planning any bathhouse with a terrace, it is important to consider that access to it should be both from the inside and from the outside. A terrace can be made not only along the wall of the bathhouse, but also as a corridor from the house to it.

Modern technologies do not stand still. Today, the terrace can have several levels, for example, the first serves as a porch for the entrance to the bathhouse, and the second and third go towards the gazebo. In addition, if the customer has the opportunity, then a swimming pool can be installed on the terrace.

Terrace exterior

As mentioned above, it is very important to take care in advance of the entrance to the terrace both from the bathhouse and from the street. The foundation for it must be poured with the same depth as for the main structure, so that winter time there was no deviation between them. In addition, it is recommended to install the terrace on poles rather than attach it to the wall itself. The material of both structures (bathhouse and terrace) should be the same.

In addition to the functional features, it is important to consider the design of the veranda in the bathhouse, as well as what will be located outside it. To decorate the space in front of the terrace, you can make a small pond, install figurines next to it and plant plants.

Today, many are trying to install a swimming pool into the flooring of the terrace; this is not only fashionable, but also useful. The advantage of this proximity to the bathhouse is that the pool is covered with a canopy, but at the same time it is still located in the open air. Swimming in it after a steam room is more pleasant and healthier than swimming in one that is located indoors.

Terrace with sliding wall

Not so long ago, bathhouse designs with a sliding glass wall began to appear. Essentially, this building is a large veranda, which turns into an open terrace by removing the partition. The walls themselves can be made of plastic, glass, stretched fabric or metal of any color. The sliding wall mechanism can also be selected individually, these can be accordion walls, Japanese sliding walls or removable panels that function according to the type garage doors and are retracted under the ceiling or up from the street side, like a canopy.

In order to equip a terrace according to this principle, you need to choose a project as for a regular terrace, and only then install special doors.

Conclusion

As you can see, the choice of designs for a bathhouse with a veranda is quite extensive; everyone will be able to choose a suitable option for themselves and place it on a suburban area. Each of them has individual characteristics that are important for ensuring quality rest. Therefore, before starting to build any type of bathhouse, you should study all the fire safety rules, first of all this applies to buildings with a terrace where the installation of a stove or barbecue grill is provided.

Whatever the size and arrangement of the terrace, its presence will add completeness to the bathhouse and will serve as a decoration for the suburban area.

The best projects of bathhouses with a veranda

Buildings with a terrace are very popular. This is an outdoor area with fencing and flooring connected to the main building.

Bathhouse with a terrace: thinking about the project and choosing material for construction

Washing in your own bathhouse cannot be classified as a banal hygiene procedure. This is a true pleasure, which is accompanied by a pleasant feast in the company of friends and leisurely conversation. Therefore, when planning to build a small bathhouse on your site, do not miss the chance to make it truly comfortable and convenient.

In the warm season, after a hot steam room, you want to go out into the fresh air, settle into a soft chair and freeze in sweet languor.

Your holiday will not be overshadowed by the vagaries of the weather if a bathhouse with a terrace under one roof is built on the site.

What should its layout be in order to water procedures optimally combined with relaxation, board games and cooking homemade meals, we will consider in more detail.

Bath layout options

It is advantageous to build a terrace (veranda) not as a separate structure, but under the same roof as a bathhouse. Therefore, at least one size (length or width) must be the same. The easiest way to implement this idea is as follows: the gable roof of the bathhouse on one side rests on the main wall, and the other rests on the racks (columns) of the terrace.

The second step is to determine the usable area of ​​the terrace. It directly depends on the number of people visiting the bathhouse at the same time. For a family of 4 people, 8 m2 is enough for comfortable seating at the table. If the company is more representative (6-8 people), then include at least 14 m2 in the project. Having determined the area of ​​the veranda, you can finally decide on which side of the bathhouse it is best located.

Optimally arranged along a narrow end wall small terrace. If you want to make a more spacious room, then it is better to make an open canopy along the wide side of the bathhouse.

Another interesting layout option is placing a terrace between the bathhouse and the residential building. This way, you won't have to look for a place to cook or wait for the rain to end. Only in this case is it better to attach a bathhouse with a veranda to the blind side of the house so that the smoke from the heater chimney (when using solid fuel) did not get into the windows of residential premises.

When considering the design of a bathhouse with a terrace in terms of its internal layout, you need to proceed from the external dimensions of the structure. It is within this framework that you will have to “fit” all the rooms: dressing room, bathroom, shower, steam room, relaxation room and terrace. You can save useful space by abandoning the rest room and transferring its functions to the veranda. However, in this case, during the cold season you will have nowhere to relax after washing in the bathhouse. Therefore, reserve at least 6-7 m2 for it.

If your plans do not include the construction of a full-size bathhouse measuring 6 by 6 meters as in the figure above, then you can do it differently: remove the rest room from the layout, glaze the terrace and make a barbecue oven in it.

For the autumn and spring seasons, the heat from such a fireplace will be enough to create a comfortable temperature. In this case, the external dimensions of the bathhouse with a veranda can be reduced to a minimum (4 by 4 meters), without losing in comfort and ease of use.

Options for adding rooms

In addition to the considered solutions with a relaxation room, a glassed-in veranda with a barbecue, the idea of ​​adding an attic to the bathhouse deserves attention. It significantly expands the usable area and makes it possible to equip a guest room, a small fireplace room or a billiard room under one roof.

To implement such a profitable idea, you need to provide a place to install a narrow and not too steep staircase. It's not difficult to find. It is enough to slightly increase the area of ​​the hallway (dressing room).

On the second floor near the bathhouse you can design a spacious balcony. To do this, the attic roof needs to be extended so that it covers the veranda.

The slope of the roof will take away part of the usable area from the second floor. Despite this, there will be enough space in the attic for a recreation room with a billiard table. If desired, you can install a light open fireplace with an exhaust hood.

Photos of different bath options

Having gained an idea of ​​the external layout and internal layout baths with terraces, you should look at their visual embodiment. This will help us more accurately determine the material for the new building.

In photo No. 1 we see a classic bathhouse made of rounded logs, covered with a gable roof made of metal tiles. The roof covers not only the bathhouse, but also the terrace and balcony of the second floor.

The beautiful knitting of crowns serves as the main decoration of the facade. The only remark is the irrational use of attic space. The gable roof takes up a lot of usable space from the second-level premises. In this regard, a broken roof is more profitable.

Photo No. 2 shows an inexpensive and compact sauna made of timber with a terrace. Nothing superfluous is the life credo of the owner of such a structure. A shallow foundation is inexpensive and quite sufficient for installing walls made of wooden beam. Under the terrace strip foundation not needed at all. Three concrete columns for the roof support posts and a timber frame are the most reasonable solution.

You don't have to cover the veranda common roof with a bathhouse, and protect it with an ordinary flat canopy. Photo No. 3 shows the appearance of a structure measuring 6 by 4 meters with a veranda located along the long wall. As we can see, there is enough space for a dining table and a small barbecue oven.

When planning to build a bathhouse with a veranda, you can not invent complex options, but simply combine it with an ordinary garden gazebo, as in photo No. 4.

A polycarbonate roof will not only reliably protect you from rain, but will also create pleasant partial shade.

The bathhouse can become the central structure for the entire recreation area country estate. In this case, the terrace should be truly spacious and comfortable. To do this, it should be made as wide as possible or extended by unfolding it in the shape of the letter “L”.

In the far corner of the large log shed, a summer stove with a compartment for frying kebabs and steaks is conveniently located.

Construction materials

Wood is the most popular material for constructing a bathhouse with a terrace. Moreover, this can be not only an expensive profiled beam, but also an affordable rounded log.

Excellent bath characteristics are also achievable in an inexpensive frame structure, provided that ecowool and not polystyrene foam are used as insulation.

Foam block and aerated concrete are well suited for bathhouse construction. These materials effectively solve the problem of insulation and do not require expensive finishing. Important condition the durability of such a structure is good protection of the walls from moisture (deeply penetrating waterproofing and high-quality putty).

Brick is almost never used as the main material for walls today. But it is indispensable for the front decoration of the facade and looks good as a decorative fencing terraces.

A lover of the original can be advised to build round sauna with a terrace using the “claystone” technology. Two dump trucks of firewood, one clay truck and a hay cart are all the materials needed to build a unique and environmentally flawless structure.

Bathhouse with a terrace: thinking about the project and choosing material for construction

Options for bathhouses with a terrace, examples of layout and visual photos. Materials for the construction of a bathhouse.

Baths with a terrace: projects, photos, DIY terrace construction

A terrace is a platform with flooring, which is built on a prepared foundation. There are many types and varieties of this architectural addition:

• It can be located near the house, or it can be completely unconnected with it, or connected by a path.
• Maybe without a roof - then they say that it is open. Or with a roof - covered.
• May or may not have walls. The walls can be solid or in the form of a fence.
• There are single or multi-level ones.

There are a lot of types of terraces: both in shape, and in the number of levels, and in materials

If we talk about terraces that are adjacent to the house, then they can be side and front, and can cover one, two, three or four sides. Sometimes they have an irregular shape. They can be under the same roof with the main building or have their own.

If you consider that very different materials can be used in manufacturing, it is clear that there are simply countless variations.

Projects of bathhouses made of timber with a terrace

Building a terrace in front of the bathhouse or next to it is not so difficult. In general, most often the difficulty is caused by the lack of a project. If funds allow, it is better to order it, describing in detail what and how you imagine, what you want to achieve, and what things you absolutely do not like. If it is impossible to order the production of a personal project, there is an option to find one of the ready-made ones, slightly adjust it to suit own needs. Here are a few bathhouse projects with different terraces, which are easy to do with your own hands.

Bathhouse 4 x 4.5 with terrace

According to the project, the bathhouse consists of three rooms, with a terrace attached to it on a separate disconnected foundation (read about one of the options for its construction below). There are three rooms in the bathhouse building:

Bathhouse projects 4 + for 4 with a terrace on a separate columnar foundation

The parameters of the premises can be changed by moving the partition separating the rest room. If the bathhouse is being built for a dry-air sauna, a large volume of the steam room is not needed: calculate the number of people who should fit in one session, then calculate the area of ​​the shelves for their comfortable arrangement: for “seated” places you can take 1-1.2 meters per person, “lying” - 2.1-1.2 m. Width of shelves - 0.7-0.9 m. Calculate the area of ​​the shelves, add space for the stove and its fence and some area for free movement. Get the required area.

The calculation of the area of ​​the steam room in a Russian bathhouse is similar, but if there is no need to have “lying down” places in a sauna - they usually only sit there, then in a Russian steam room they are required. Another difference is that the fencing of the sauna stove is wooden structure, which prevents you from touching the hot walls. In a Russian steam room, if they install a metal stove, then they must cover it with a brick screen, and these are completely different dimensions. Therefore, a larger area needs to be allocated.

This is an example of what the implementation of the project looks like

Using such a bathhouse in winter will not be comfortable: entering the rest room directly from the street and the cold air will be a clear hindrance. To eliminate this drawback, you can either fence off part of the rest room as a vestibule, or make part of the veranda closed. The second option looks preferable due to the small size of the premises. But then you need to either make an entrance from the other side, or move the doors.

When choosing a wood-burning stove for a bath: for this project you will need compact version, perhaps tall and narrow, but you can try to fit just a small one in size. The volume will be quite small, so low power should be enough. This project includes a stove that is heated from the rest room. At the same time, it will also heat it, so you need some power reserve, do not forget about this (if you plan to visit the bathhouse in winter). For example, “Heat “Malyutka”, Varvara stoves - models “Palenitsa” and “Mini”, or “Compact”, “Osa”, “Shilka” and “Biryusa” from Termofor.

Project of a 4 by 6 bathhouse with a terrace

This layout option small bathhouse immediately provides for the allocation of a small vestibule, so this bathhouse is suitable for winter use without modifications. The steam room and sink are separate, they have almost same sizes, which is not always justified. If they will only use the shower in the washing room, then it can be made a little more compact by blocking off more space for a steam room (for a Russian bath). You can also install a sprinkler in the shower. If the ceiling height allows, it is mounted above the shower “gander”; if not, on the side.

Project of a 4 by 6 bathhouse with a terrace

Drawing of a 6 by 5 bath (with a protruding terrace)

This timber bathhouse project also has a fenced-off closed vestibule. It occupies part of the terrace, but in order not to reduce its area, it was “pushed” beyond the building’s foundation. If desired, you can further increase it by making it in the shape of the letter “G”. You will get a spacious area for summer recreation. It will be possible to fence off a part of it for installing a barbecue (there are several projects here).

Bathhouse 4 x 5 with adjacent terrace

Bathhouse project 6 by 6 with an open terrace

This layout option requires the same number of rooms. It’s just that their area has become larger: now the dimensions allow it. In this option, you can already fence off a small room for a locker room. And for winter use you will need to organize a vestibule somewhere.

Project of a 6 by 6 bathhouse with a terrace

If there is still an opportunity to add a little dimensions, you can already “fit in” the bathroom. The result will be a guest house-sauna, especially if you make a two-story bathhouse. One of the options, however, on the same floor, is located in the photo below.

Large bathhouse-guest house with terrace

What materials are they built from?

To cover the terrace you can use any building material: wood, brick, building blocks, natural or artificial stone, paving, ceramic, porcelain tiles, natural or artificial stone, etc.

Despite the fact that outdoor wood is not the easiest material to use, decks are most often made of wood. Using pine and spruce is a constant headache: maintenance and repairs need to be done very often. Harder wood is more expensive, but lasts longer and is less of a hassle.

Near brick bath a terrace with a brick fence looks good

Near the brick bathhouse, a terrace with a fence also made of brick looks good; in this case, it is rational to lay out the terrace itself with tiles or stone. A much more practical option. However, for such sites it will be necessary to pour a concrete slab.

If your soil is dry and not prone to heaving, it will be enough to fill it with crushed stone and sand. It will be possible to lay paving slabs. She is different forms and colors, so it can also look more than interesting.

The terrace with laid paving slabs looks very good. It can be combined with a blind area around the house. In this case, you will kill two birds with one stone.

How to make a wooden terrace on a pile foundation

The most problematic option is wood. If you plan to use it, then you need to choose from varieties that tolerate being outdoors well. It also requires treatment with protective impregnations, varnishing or painting.

Preparing piles

To create normal operating conditions for wooden terraces, it is necessary to think through the design so that water does not accumulate under the structure. In general, it is advisable to make the platform made of wood raised above the ground level so that the boards below are well blown and ventilated. Therefore, most often a pile or columnar foundation is made for such structures. Moreover, the fertile layer under the terrace is removed, the remaining soil is leveled and compacted, and then covered with crushed stone and also compacted. This is done to prevent the vegetation from rotting and spreading “odors” and spores.

The installation step of the posts is at least 1-1.5 meters - this way the boards will not sag. Material of manufacture - any. You can drive asbestos or iron pipes into the ground and pour concrete into them. This is a very durable, but not cheap option.

Roofing felt piles

Much less money (but more labor) will require piles with roofing felt formwork.

This is how you can make permanent formwork for piles from roofing felt

Ruberoid is rolled into round columns in two or three layers. Diameter - 20-22 cm, height - about 1 meter (70 cm is recessed in the ground, 30 cm is on top). This is for soils with an average tendency to heave. In order not to have to worry about measuring the diameter of this formwork, you can use a pattern. If you find a water bottle of a suitable diameter (these are nine-liter containers), the work will be simple: screw on the roofing material, secure it with tape, and pull out the “pattern” by the handle.

It is more convenient to fasten with tape, as usual. It just doesn’t want to stick to the powder. To ensure adhesion, remove the crumbs in the right places with a brush and wipe the cleaned area with white spirit. Once dry, the hold is excellent. So prepare the required number of columns.

Using a drill, make the required number of recesses, slightly larger in diameter than the molded posts and 25 cm deeper. These 25 cm are used to construct the pillow: they are covered with a 15 cm layer of crushed stone and compacted. Sand is added, which is also compacted.

Then formwork is installed in the prepared pits. All columns must be leveled. This can be done using two rods driven along the edges of the planned terrace and a cord stretched between them. Its verticality can be checked with a building level, adjusting the height of the rods if necessary. The second way is to set the height of the bars using a hydraulic level (you can also use a laser level, but it is difficult to work with it outside - the beam is visible only in the evening or in cloudy weather). After fiddling around with the alignment of the cord, you will then quickly bring all the columns in one row to the same height. Repeat the procedure in the following.

How to attach support pillars to concrete piles - one of the options

The columns also need to be placed vertically. You can't do without a plumb line here. It’s a simple tool, but nothing better has been invented yet.

Next, to increase the strength, it is advisable to insert several reinforcement bars inside - 2-3 per column. You can use smooth rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm. Then pour concrete inside. It needs to be compacted, since it is not worth knocking on the roofing felt; you will need to take a long metal rod and bayonet it (pierce it through and pull it a little from side to side). As a result of such actions, the concrete level will become a little lower - air will escape, you will have to add a little. Everything becomes easier if you have a submersible hand or mobile concrete vibrator. When the solution has set, you can begin further work.

Brick pillars

On heaving soils, the posts can simply be squeezed out, causing the terrace to slide down. What is needed here is a wider platform that will stabilize the situation. For such a foundation, small pits are dug, measuring 50*50 or 60*60 cm. The soil is compacted in them, crushed stone is poured, it is also compacted, and formwork is installed from boards 20-25 cm high.

The foundation for the terrace can be made of brick pillars

Several pieces of reinforcement are laid on the halves of the bricks - lengthwise and crosswise - to form a cage (2-3 rods each). A pipe is inserted into the middle (verticality is checked). All this is filled with concrete (maybe with crushed stone). Thickness - 20 cm.

After the mortar has set, a brick column is made around the pipe. The height is set just below the required flooring height - leaving room for the bottom trim.

How to make a bottom harness

There are two options for installing support pillars:

• first, logs are attached to the columns, and then support pillars are attached to the logs;
• when pouring concrete, galvanized embedded plates are inserted into the columns, then the bars of the posts are attached to them (put twice folded roofing material under the posts, treat the ends with impregnation, although it is better to tar or paint).

Another option for a foundation for a terrace is ready-made concrete blocks. You just need to dig the appropriate pit for each column, make a gravel backfill, place a half-block, and a rectangular block on top of the solution

The first method is used most often, but the second also occurs. It requires a little less cost, but there will be more fuss with laying the logs.

When making the bottom trim, a beam of 100*75 mm, 75*75 mm or wider is used - it depends on the size of the terrace and the load on it. They are treated with antibacterial impregnations, laid on a concrete column covered with a layer of waterproofing (lay twice folded roofing material or coat with mastic or liquid waterproofing).

The beams cost a lot, but you can cheat by making a spliced ​​beam from boards. It is not suitable for support pillars - the appearance is not the same, but for joists it is even better, since it has increased strength. How to make timber from boards:

• Take an edged board with a width equal to the length of the side of the beam, with a thickness of at least 25 mm.
• The number of boards to be spliced ​​is determined based on the required thickness of the timber. If you need timber 75 mm thick, then there will be three boards.
• They are connected with self-tapping screws in increments of 10-15 cm (the length of the self-tapping screw is slightly shorter than the width of all the boards being joined). When connecting, the fasteners are placed in a checkerboard pattern.
• When creating long beams, boards can be spliced. But at the same time, you need to ensure that the joint is at least half a meter away from the joint.
• Such spliced ​​bars are laid on the edge. Only in this state do they have high strength (even stronger than solid timber).

What does a terrace frame look like?

Regardless of the chosen method, all wooden elements must be impregnated with protective and antifungal compounds. For improvement appearance and to extend their service life they are coated with varnishes. Use better formulations for outdoor use, and if we talk about varnishes, then yacht varnish is preferable - it is well adapted to a humid environment and protects the wood from the effects of salts.

It is possible to create a frame made of metal. You can use a powerful corner or a square pipe. This base is more reliable and durable. It is well primed, then carefully painted and will serve for decades. To prevent the board from being damaged upon contact with metal, a waterproofing material - such as TechnoNIKOL, etc. - is glued to the metal. When attaching the flooring, you will have to drill holes - it is unlikely that you will be able to screw in the screws directly.

The frame can be welded from metal. Such a terrace will be much more repairable

After making and securing the strapping, you can begin making the flooring. An edged board is usually used. There is a special terrace board- it has not a flat, but a wavy front surface, but it is more often laid around fonts or pools built on the terrace. The wavy surface, even when wet, does not allow slipping, and if you make a slight slope, the water will quickly drain without lingering on the flooring.

The thickness of the board, as for the floor, is rarely thinner than 20 mm, although its thickness depends on the distance between the piles. At a distance of 1.5 meters, the thickness of the board is 25 mm, then it will not sag when walking.

Boards for plank flooring need to be of decent thickness. To make them last longer, they are treated with antiseptics and varnished or painted.

Tile terrace

If you decide to make a platform not from wood, but from tiles, you can go in several ways. It all depends on how you imagine your terrace.

If you are satisfied paving slabs as a coating, the technology can be greatly simplified. The process is very similar to installing a blind area around a house. The technology is similar, you can use the same techniques.

Simple option

The simplest, but very reliable and effective option is using profiled membranes and geotextiles. In this case, the soil is removed to the width of the future terrace, the depth is small - 20-25 cm is enough. If there is a roof on top, the site can be made level; if a roof is not provided, a slope of 3-5 cm is formed for every meter (from the foundation).

If precipitation in the region is heavy and subsoil water is close, it is better to lay a drainage pipe along the edge of the terrace. This is a special corrugated pipe with holes. A small recess is dug for it (about half the diameter), where it is placed. The end of the drainage pipe is led into a drainage well or into the sewer system.

One of the options for constructing a terrace (with a drainage pipe under the tiles)

To prevent plants from sprouting under the coating, they are treated with special chemicals. After processing, a profiled membrane is spread over the entire width. If you are laying drainage, the edge of the membrane should fit into the dug groove, reaching its opposite edge. A drainage pipe is placed on the membrane. Now all the moisture will roll down the film and get into it.

On the other hand, near the house, a membrane of 10-15 cm is placed on the wall. They fix it there. A layer of geotextile is rolled out on top. He is also lifted onto the wall. Both films can be secured with a clamping bar. The second edge of the geotextile ends above the drainage pipe (it is not fixed).

Now pour a layer of crushed stone of large and medium fractions. A curb stone is installed along the edge of the site (not above the drainage pipe, but closer to the house). The crushed stone is compacted well (preferably with a vibrating plate, but do not compact it over the pipe with a plate). A layer of sand is poured on top, leveled, spilled with water and compacted. You can already lay tiles on it.

What would such a terrace look like?

The thickness of the layers is 10-15 cm. The depth of the pit for the terrace is selected so that the tiles are laid at the required height. It is difficult to say exactly, since the tiles can be of different thicknesses. Based on the purchased coating, calculate the required depth of the pit around the house.

One “but”: the described method is suitable for the case when the foundation and base are insulated. If there is no insulation, half the sand is poured onto the crushed stone, slabs of extruded polystyrene foam are laid out, then sand is added, and then the tiles are laid on it. At the same time, the foundation of the house is also covered with expanded polystyrene slabs to the entire depth of the dug pit.

Bathhouse projects with a terrace: photos, drawings, foundations, do-it-yourself construction features

In the sauna we not only take a steam bath, but also relax and chat with friends. In the summer, these gatherings are more pleasant to endure with fresh air, so terraces are added to the bathhouses.

The construction of a private bath over time involves expanding the total area by adding a veranda or terrace.

The extension can have an open or closed structure, which allows it to be used in any climatic conditions. A bathhouse with a veranda is a complex and labor-intensive project, but if desired, even a novice developer can implement it.

A terrace or veranda attached to a bathhouse is a functional structure that can be used for various purposes. This is a full-fledged room that has walls, a floor and a ceiling, as well as a separate or combined roof with a bathhouse.

What is such an extension used for? Many find her quite household use- storage of unnecessary things and materials that did not have a place in the main building.

The key purpose of the extension is to eat food after completion bath procedures. Here you can equip a comfortable dining area, placing a compact table, garden chairs, a chaise longue, and a sofa with decorative pillows and a warm blanket.

If there is a small summer house on the site, then the extension can be used as summer kitchen, equipped necessary equipment and furniture.

Devoted connoisseurs of sauna relaxation can install a pool here filled with cool water to quickly cool down a hot body after a hot steam room.

Another option for using the extension is to create a play corner for children. The covered structure allows children to have fun outdoors even on a cloudy day. Here you can place Garden swing, sun loungers, floor mats, a Swedish gym wall and even a miniature sandbox.

The choice of the appropriate size of the extension is determined by the individual wishes of the developer and the size of the land plot. In this case, the area of ​​the extension can be equal to the area of ​​the bathhouse, in some cases more or less.

Differences between veranda and terrace

Having decided to build an extension for a private bath, many owners ask themselves: what is better to choose - a veranda or a terrace?

The veranda is a functional room closed type, which is built into the existing structure.

The terrace is open design located on a separate base.

Important! Despite obvious design differences, veranda and terrace are classified as additional buildings.

Main characteristics of the bathhouse extension:

• A mandatory structural element of a veranda is a roof, while a terrace may not have one.
• The veranda can serve either as an additional part of the building or as a separate extension. The terrace can be connected to the main building or located next to it.
• If the veranda and terrace are used in winter, they must have a single roof with the bathhouse.

The construction of extensions has its own characteristics, but still many homeowners opt for a veranda. It can be of any geometric shape and size, with panoramic or standard windows, insulated or lightweight.

The choice of the appropriate type of structure, open or closed, is considered at the stage of creating a detailed design. An open-type veranda is nothing more than a fenced terrace, but a closed-type one is a full-fledged functional room.

Design

The veranda attached to the bathhouse provides two entry options: internal, from the bathhouse, and external, from the street. It is often built along a long wall and comes in square, rectangular and semicircular designs.

When building an extension on support pillars, a technological gap of 10 mm must be maintained between it and the bathhouse.

Taking into account the location in relation to the bathhouse, the building can be:

• side - located along the wall;
• frontal - erected to the front of the building;
• corner - located at the junction of permanent wall structures;
• encircling - built around the perimeter of the building;
• semicircular - completely connected to the bathhouse with an internal exit.

Modern designs of bathhouses with verandas involve the construction of an extension in the shape of a rectangle or square, less often - an oval or semicircle.

Materials

Traditionally, when building extensions for brick and wooden baths rounded logs and beams are used. Such materials are environmentally friendly, durable, and also have high performance characteristics.

Important! For construction, high-quality and well-dried wood with a minimal shrinkage rate is used.

Logs and beams are prepared from coniferous and hardwood trees, pre-treated with antiseptic compounds.

As a floor covering except wooden planks you can lay artificial and a natural stone, porcelain tiles, paving and ceramic tiles.

Roofing materials require special attention, in particular if the roofs of the veranda and bathhouses have general design. For the extension, you can use slate, metal tiles, steel sheets, ondulin and polycarbonate.

Foundation

How to attach a veranda to an existing bathhouse quickly and efficiently? Construction work begins with the preparation of a strong and durable foundation, which is designed to protect the finished structure from subsidence and deformation.

The addition of a veranda to a bathhouse can be done on the following types of foundations:

• Tape. It is a reinforced concrete base, running along the perimeter of the construction site on which the construction of an extension is planned. It is suitable for stable types of soil with low groundwater level and can withstand heavy structures.
• Columnar. It is erected from strong supports buried 75 cm into the ground in increments of 2 meters. Asbestos-cement pipes or bored-type piles can be used as supports. Requires additional waterproofing of supports.
• Pile-screw. Built from metal pipes equipped with end blades. They are screwed into the ground to the required depth with pre-treatment with an anti-corrosion compound.
• Pile. The most affordable type of base, which is used for problematic soils. The basis is bored concrete piles.

The choice of a suitable foundation for the veranda is determined by the type of foundation on which the bathhouse is built. The finished base is covered waterproofing material, after which the frame and flooring are assembled.

Walls

The most affordable option is to build a frame veranda for the bathhouse from logs or timber measuring 100 × 150 mm or 100 × 100 mm. Construction work is carried out using the following technology:

1. A grillage is laid on top of the waterproofing layer of the foundation base - a wooden frame 55 mm thick and up to 160 mm wide. The strapping is fixed to the base with metal anchors.
2. Afterwards, vertical supports are installed - by cutting or metal corners. The racks are fixed on each side to provide the necessary structural rigidity.
3. Vertical racks are mounted so that the window and door openings are located between them in the right place.
4. Performed top harness according to a similar scheme. In the outer corners, the logs are joined by notches or corners.
5. Wall surfaces are insulated with mineral or basalt wool, and the outside is sheathed with planed boards or decorative panels.

Glazing

The sauna veranda can have partial or full glazing. Each of these options has its own technical features.

1. Partial. It is represented by wall structures, which consist of 1/3 of brickwork or a wooden base, the rest of the volume is made of glass. A large number of windows provide additional daylight, makes the room more spacious and open.
2. Complete. Wall structures consist almost entirely of frames with installed panoramic windows equipped with vents for natural ventilation.

Roof

The design of the roof depends on the location and shape of the veranda itself. If the extension is located under the bathhouse gable, it is easier to arrange common roof. In this case, there is no need to organize an additional drainage system.

If the veranda is perpendicular to the gable of the bathhouse, a separate roof should be installed.

Now let's look at how to make a roof for a veranda. The assembly proceeds as follows:

1. The roof truss system is being installed.
2. Hydro- and vapor barrier is installed.
3. The wooden sheathing is fixed, taking into account the overhangs and ebbs for the pediment.
4. Roofing material is being laid.
5. An apron is installed at the junction of the veranda and the bathhouse.

Important! The roofing material must be similar to that mounted on the bathhouse.

Decoration and design

It is quite easy to build a veranda for a bathhouse with your own hands, and if you follow frame construction technology, all work can be completed in a short time.

The final stage of arranging the veranda - decorative design interior In this matter, it is important to take into account the overall design of the bathhouse or sauna in order to get a practical and harmonious interior. There are several popular styles for decorating a bath veranda.

Cottage style. This is a variety of shapes and designs, the presence of all kinds of details and decorative elements made of wood. A bathhouse with an open veranda can have carved railings, made in the form of a decorative fence, decorated with hanging pots with fresh flowers.

Mountain style. Suitable for large verandas: there is a heavy wooden frame, log railings and canopy. Fir or pine branches can be used as decorative elements. In such a room, good quality wooden furniture looks solid self made without decorative processing.

Modern style. Provides a minimum number of decorative elements and details. The entire interior is decorated simply and concisely. For finishing you can use wood, natural or artificial stone, glass, metal and plastic.

Eclecticism. This is a mixture of different styles with the choice of the most suitable elements. Laconic or expensive furniture, decor made from natural or artificial materials - all this can be safely combined to decorate a veranda.

A private bath or sauna is a real paradise for true connoisseurs of bath relaxation. If necessary, the modest structure can be expanded by building a spacious and functional veranda.