Many people believe that caring for cabbage is only needed at the initial stage of growing, and then it develops independently. Probably, such rumors are spread by those who have never grown this plant themselves, because a slight change in the conditions for growing cabbage in open ground may lead to crop loss. Even with all the advantages of cabbage as a plant, there are enough factors that can negatively affect its development. In this article we will talk about the features of growing cabbage in open ground and share useful tips, which can be useful in gardening.

Varieties for open ground

The first thing you need to understand is that there is different types cabbage: white, red, Brussels sprouts, Peking cabbage, cauliflower. In our area, mostly white cabbage is grown in open ground, less often red cabbage.

The most popular varieties: Gribovsky 147, No. 1 polar K-206 (early ripening varieties), Transfer, F Sprint, F Rinda, Golden Hectare, Stakhanovka (mid ripening and mid-late varieties) Galaxy, Kolobok, Gade (late varieties). These varieties can also be grown in greenhouses, but they are better suited than others for growing in open ground.

The main rules for growing in open ground

As has already been noted, growing cabbage in open ground is not as easy as it seems. Even if it is surrounded with the same care as seedlings in a greenhouse, there are still more dangers awaiting it here, from which it should be protected. There is a high probability of occurrence here various diseases

, pests. You also need to monitor the soil moisture, because deviations from the norm in any direction can lead to unpleasant consequences. A lot depends on the site itself.

It is important to remember that acidic soil is not suitable for growing cabbage in open ground; in this case, be sure to liming.

Sowing and caring for seeds

If you decide to grow cabbage from seeds, then your first actions should depend on what kind of seeds you decide to use: store-bought or obtained with your own labor. Before sowing your own seeds, you need to prepare them: first keep them for some time, no more than 20 minutes, in hot water (water temperature should be about 50°C), immediately after that send them to cold water for a couple of minutes, and finally dry them completely .

There is no need to do this with purchased seeds, since almost all manufacturers pre-treat the seeds. A similar procedure is carried out immediately before sowing: the seed is soaked and kept for a day at a cold temperature - such hardening promotes rapid germination and durability of the seeds. In the future, such seedlings will be able to withstand frosts of 5-7°C in open ground, while unhardened ones will not withstand more than two or three.

To grow seedlings from seeds, use exclusively loose soil, usually with a large admixture of peat. There is a method with picking, when the seedlings are moved into individual containers, and there is a method without picking. But regardless of this, there is general rules seedling care. Cabbage needs moderate watering: if there is not enough water, it begins to dry out and grow poorly, and if you overwater it, oxygen will stop flowing to the roots, rotting will begin, and other diseases are possible.

It is necessary to observe both light and temperature regime. Low illumination or high temperature entail stretching of seedlings; the same result will be with dense sowing. It is also recommended to frequently ventilate the room with seedlings.

It is important to remember that the cabbage will grow slowly for the first 2 weeks, and the first pair of leaves will appear in about 20-25 days.

Landing in the ground

It is worth planting only strong seedlings that have already acquired a dark green color and have 4-5 leaves. Mark the planting site as follows: the distance between plants should be approximately half a meter, that is, the holes are knocked out every 50-60 cm, and the rows should be separated by a distance of approximately 70-80 cm.

In addition to watering the holes before planting, you also need to add fertilizer - compost, also add wood ash mixed with soil, then water again. It is important to ensure that the growing point is not covered.

Care

After you have planted the seedlings and they have taken root, you can sigh a little - half the work is done, but under no circumstances should you stop caring for the plants. You need to continue to water the plants 2-3 times a week, later you can switch to abundant watering once a week. Experienced gardeners recommend sprinkling watering, this way the air is also saturated with moisture. It is advisable to loosen the soil near the plant at least once every two weeks.

Try to combat pests as effectively as possible (today there are enough chemicals designed to combat certain diseases and insects, you can also resort to traditional methods).

You need to fertilize several times. The first is about two weeks after planting in a new place - usually phosphate fertilizer, manure, and chicken droppings are applied. The second fertilizing should take place in another 2 weeks, the same components are added, potassium mixtures can be added, further fertilizing is done if necessary.

Considering the cold resistance of cabbage, it can be safely cut even after frost; early ripening varieties, of course, earlier. Here you need to choose the right time, because if you harvest the crop earlier, the vegetables may begin to wither; if you miss the moment, cracks in the heads of cabbage are inevitable.

A video that is designed to teach novice gardeners to avoid annoying mistakes in the process of growing cabbage in their summer cottage.

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Transplanting cabbage seedlings into open ground - initial care

We transplant white cabbage seedlings into open ground without loss - feeding and care

Seedlings white cabbage there is not long left to “sit out” in the house, because the time to disembark is just around the corner permanent place. Let's figure out how to do it correctly.

Family: Brassicas

Cycle: Biennial plant, in the first year it forms a powerful bud-head weighing 400-500 g in early cabbage and up to 10-12 kg or more in later varieties

Vegetation: U early varieties- 70-130 days, middle - 125-175, late - b153-245

Cabbage crop rotation: Good predecessors are cucumbers and onions. tomatoes, potatoes, legumes, beets, pumpkins, perennial herbs; bad - other cruciferous vegetables

Read more: Compatibility and alternation of vegetables

For cabbage, choose flat, well-warmed areas by the sun. For seedlings of early varieties, in the fall, 5-6 kg of rotted manure, 12-15 g of potassium chloride, 30-40 g of superphosphate are added per 1 sq.m. and immediately before planting 25-30 g ammonium nitrate. For mid- and late-ripening - 5-10 kg of manure, 10-12 g of phosphorus and 20-25 g of potassium, and in the spring before planting - 10-12 g of nitrogen per 1 sq.m.

Preparing for planting cabbage seedlings

Three main points can be highlighted. Firstly, a week before planting, the seedlings are transferred to a greenhouse or exposed to the sun for 3-4 hours every day. Secondly, they reduce watering from daily to once every 2-3 days, and the day before planting they do not water at all (so that the seedlings do not break on the road and it is easier to remove them from the pot, and if watered, the plants are transported laying them on their side ). Thirdly, 1.5-2 weeks before planting, seedlings are fed with potassium (4-6 g of potassium sulfate per 1 liter of water), which increases the cold resistance of plants.

If there is a risk of pests (for example, aphids) appearing on the site, then 2-3 days before planting, the seedlings are watered with Aktara solution (0.3 g per 1 liter of water).

FACT: It is better to plant cabbage seedlings in the morning or evening hours, when there is no direct sunlight. Cloudy weather or even light rain is ideal.

To the market for cabbage seedlings

If you buy cabbage seedlings, pay attention to their appearance. The plant must have at least 3 true leaves, be stocky, i.e. not elongated, free from kinks, injuries, etc. Pay special attention to the roots: their length should be at least a third of the above-ground part; there should be no thickening, rot or other signs of disease on the roots.

Planting cabbage seedlings

Early cabbage seedlings at the age of 60 days are planted in open ground in late April - early May, when the soil warms up to +8...+10 degrees. The planting pattern depends on the expected size of the cabbage - 45x20-25 cm (cabbage with conical heads can be planted more often). Age of cabbage seedlings is medium and late ripening varieties should not exceed 35 *n, otherwise the survival rate will fall. Plants are planted in the middle to the end of the bark according to the 70x30-40 cm pattern. Contrary to popular belief, cabbage should not be buried: this leads to poor ventilation under the lower leaves, accumulation excess moisture and disease damage.

It is more correct to plant it so that a third of the height of the cup (when removing the seedlings from the pot, the soil in which it grew retains the shape of the vessel) is above the soil level. Only very overgrown seedlings can be buried a little.

After planting, the plants are watered at the rate of 3-5 l/sq.m. To protect against frost, the bed is covered with white spunbond. In addition to insulation, it protects the soil from drying out and prevents pests from reaching the plants. The cabbage is opened for the day after the daytime temperature rises to + 18 ... + 20 degrees.

Caring for planted seedlings

At first, water the cabbage sparingly. Weed away from weeds.

Various pests (flea beetles, cabbage flies, aphids, whiteweed, etc.) pose a great danger. They fight them chemically, alternating drugs of different groups so as not to cause addiction in insects (for example, Decis, BI-58 New, Karate or Aktara).

Feeding young cabbage

At the initial stages of growth, cabbage requires a lot of nitrogen, and when forming a head of cabbage, it requires phosphorus and potassium. The beginning of fertilizing is usually combined with the first hilling of the plant and watering: early varieties - 10-14 days after planting; late - after 20-30 days. The second and subsequent ones are done 20 days after the previous one.

For the first time, cabbage is fed with ammonium nitrate (5 g/l of water) or infusion of mullein (1:5) or bird droppings (1:10) 1-1.5 liters per plant. The second feeding is a mixture of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium chloride (1:2:1) at the rate of 40-60 g/sq.m, as well as nitrophoska in the same dose. In the future, if the plants are underdeveloped, add a mixture of superphosphate and potassium chloride (2:1) or wood ash (30 g around the plant).

Tip: Due to the waxy coating on the leaves, solutions used to treat cabbage against diseases and pests often roll to the ground. To avoid this, you can add an adhesive: a special one from the store or liquid soap, shampoo (1 tsp per 10 liters of composition).

Read also: Growing white cabbage - planting and care

Cabbage without seedlings

In the middle zone, early cabbage seeds are sown in open ground in early April, late cabbage seeds are sown in the first ten days of May. In the southern regions, cabbage of late-ripening varieties is sown in the first and second ten days of May, and mid-ripening varieties - in late April - early and second ten days of May. The seeds are sown quite densely directly onto the bed according to the pattern 10-15×70 cm to a depth of 1-1.5 cm, the soil is immediately spilled and then the area is covered with spunbond.

Cabbage sprouts will be able to fight for life only after a month, when they have formed 3-4 true leaves. Until this time comes, they will have to be looked after especially carefully: regularly weed, because young shoots are not able to compete with them, and treated against cruciferous flea beetles and other pests. In the phase of 4-6 true leaves, cabbage is thinned out, leaving 40-50 cm between neighboring plants in a row. This should not be done earlier: after all, only by this age will it become clear whether the plant is affected by clubroot or blackleg or not.

Cabbage: benefits

Cabbage leaves contain minerals, organic acids, enzymes, vitamins B, C, PP, K, E, U, dietary fiber, biologically active substances, as well as 16 amino acids that suppress the growth and reproduction of pathogenic bacteria in the human body.

Cabbage improves digestion, metabolism, and removes bad cholesterol.

Rich in potassium salts, which prevents fluid retention in the body.

Fresh cabbage juice is prescribed to drink 3 times a day 30 minutes before meals for ulcers: starting with 0.5 tbsp. and gradually increasing the single dose to 1 tbsp. (do not add salt). The course of treatment is 3-4 weeks.

Choosing the best variety of cabbage

Name	Peculiarities	Description
Gribovsky 147	Early ripening variety. Easily withstands both low temperatures and drought. On acidic soils affected by clubroot	Heads of cabbage are round, weighing t 1-1.5 kg, medium density
Slava 1305	Mid-season fruitful, adapted to different climatic conditions, one of the best pickling varieties. Cold-resistant, moisture-loving, resistant to cracking, heads of cabbage are stored until January	The heads of cabbage are round, 15-25 cm in diameter, juicy, medium density, weighing 2.4-4.5 kg
Moskovskaya late 15	Late variety, medium transportability. Not suitable for winter storage, but this is one of the best varieties for pickling. Demanding on fertility and moisture	Heads of cabbage are round, average weight - 4-6 kg

On a note:

Lacy cabbage

The delicate corrugated leaves of Savoy cabbage do not have rough veins; it is juicier and more nutritious than white cabbage. You can eat it either fresh or boiled, but most of all I like it stewed, because when cooked, Savoy does not emit the smell inherent in all cabbages. It is especially good to make cabbage rolls from it: the leaves are easily separated from the head of cabbage and do not tear.

I haven’t seen Savoy cabbage seedlings on sale, so I grow them myself. Since it is quite cold-resistant and the seeds begin to germinate at +3 degrees, I sow them in mid-April in a sunny area with fertile soil, then replant them in a permanent place.

Care savoy cabbage It’s even easier than growing white cabbage: it is resistant to leaf-eating pests, and its ripe heads of late varieties can withstand light frosts.

I cut off early varieties of savoy together with the covering leaves when the heads of cabbage have reached sufficient density; I don’t delay harvesting - the forks may crack. We eat the harvest of early varieties in the summer, because they cannot be stored; we keep the later varieties in the cellar for up to three months, laying them out in one row on racks or in boxes.

Plant kohlrabi

Experienced gardeners grow kohlrabi throughout the summer, removing 2-3 waves of this cabbage from one bed. Now is the time to take care of the early vegetable harvest - 30-40-day-old kohlrabi seedlings are planted in the ground at the same time as early white cabbage. Planting pattern: 25-30 cm between plants and 45-60 cm between rows.

Kohlrabi can be used as a compactor (it is placed next to late-ripening vegetables), and also as a crop for re-sowing after harvesting green plants or early vegetables: onions, radishes. In these cases, kohlrabi is grown both by seedlings and without seedlings. The vegetable is eaten in salads, stewed and baked. Stem fruits are stored in the same way as white cabbage or beets.

Read also: Kohlrabi cabbage (photo) - cultivation and varieties

Our information

In hot summers, kohlrabi should be well watered. Drought inhibits growth - and then the stem fruit does not form or the fruit grows small, rough and tasteless. However, sudden heavy watering can cause kohlrabi to crack!

Cabbage seedlings love coolness and the obligatory drop in temperature at night.

For cabbage, very spartan conditions are required (15-17° during the day, 8-10° at night), for cauliflower and Brussels sprouts - softer conditions (17-20° during the day, 20-15° at night). In the 24-hour warmth of the apartment, soon after germination it will become pale, stretch out and lie down. If circumstances force you to prepare seedlings in the city, then it is better to keep them on a balcony, loggia, or some cool place.

Usually cabbage is sown in small outdoor greenhouses, covered with glass or film at night. You can sow seedlings in unheated greenhouses, just in time for planting peppers and tomatoes, the cabbage can be moved to a permanent place. Cabbage should be planted in the ground when the ground is well warmed up. There is a reliable one folk method determining planting dates. If you can sit on the ground without bedding, that means the vegetables will be comfortable. If the body feels deep cold, then the plants will suffer.

Why do you need seedlings?

Although cabbage manages to go through a full season life cycle, you still can’t do without growing seedlings. Why? The fact is that adult cabbage plants require a lot of space to feed. The width of the rosette of leaves of some varieties can reach 1 m. Even small varieties of kale should be placed at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. Sowing seeds in a permanent place at such a distance is irrational. Therefore, cabbage is first sown and grown in nurseries.

Preparing the land

The soil for the nursery should be nutritious and loose. No special frills are required: you need to mix turf soil and humus in equal parts, add a little wood ash. Part of the humus can be replaced with peat, vermicompost, and rotted sawdust. If the soil is too dense, you can add a little sand to loosen it. You cannot take soil from the beds where cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables (rutabagas, radishes, turnips, mustard) grew last year. The day before sowing, you should water the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate to prevent rot.

SOIL FOR CABBAGE SEEDLINGS

1. Humus. 1 part
2. Ash, 1 cup per bucket of soil
3. Sod land, part 1

Baby food

Cabbage seedlings need at least 2 feedings: at the age of 2 weeks and a few days before planting in the ground. For the first feeding, 1 tsp should be dissolved in 1 liter of water. ammonium nitrate and superphosphate. To avoid burning the roots, the plants must first be watered with clean water, and only then with a fertilizer solution. For the second feeding, an infusion of manure with the addition of ash is perfect. Between feedings, you can dust the seedlings with ash - this will also prevent blackleg.

Seeds, let's start!

Before sowing, it is better to treat the seeds to increase their resistance to fungal diseases. Seeds for 15-20 minutes. immerse in water - about 50°, and then for 5 minutes. placed in a cold place. Coated seeds cannot be processed in this way! The soil needs to be watered before sowing and then it is better not to water until the seedlings appear. The germination rate of cabbage seeds is usually good, the seeds are not too small, so you can immediately sow them at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other. If the seedlings turn out to be dense, they need to be thinned out. Whether to carry out a pick – there is no single answer here.

If at first sowing was done in planting boxes, then it is better to plant 2-week-old seedlings into pots. When sowing in greenhouses, you can limit yourself to thinning the seedlings.

Moving to the garden

40-day-old seedlings with 2 true leaves are usually planted in a permanent place. In extreme cases, the presence of 3-4 leaves is permissible; a later transplant leads to a severe delay in development, and heads of cabbage may not form at all. If the weather is unfavorable, it is better to plant the seedlings under temporary shelter rather than delay replanting.

Excellent individual houses for cabbage are made from 5-liter plastic water bottles. The bottom of the bottle is cut off and placed over the plant with the neck up. On cold nights you can tighten the lids. Such caps additionally protect seedlings from leaf-eating insects.

© Alexey SOBOLEV, Ph.D. agricultural sciences, Sergey BARSUKOV, Ph.D. agricultural sciences., Vera Prokopalova, p. Niny Stavropol Territory

vsaduidoma.com

How to grow cabbage

One can really envy summer residents: on their plot of land people relax and work, spending their free time usefully. While others sit in concrete boxes of city apartments, the happy owner of a dacha breathes fresh air, works with the soil, which ultimately responds to him with gratitude in the form of a rich harvest.

Cabbage seeds should be kept for 15-20 minutes in water whose temperature is approximately 50 degrees, and then placed in cold water.

Dacha plots are decorated with neat rows of beds with cultivated plants, but the most impressive, perhaps, are the beds with large, strong heads of cabbage heads. The luxurious look of cabbage plus knowledge about it is incredible beneficial properties make you want to grow this vegetable on your property. And it turns out that it’s not difficult at all!

Europe's number one vegetable

Growing cabbage is an activity that has been familiar to people since ancient Rome. This vegetable, which originally grew wild in the Mediterranean, has been cultivated since the distant times of the great Roman emperors and generals. And all because even then its beneficial, positive effect on human health was noticed.

Early and late landing cabbage

Cabbage was supposed to be consumed not only as food, but also as medicine: Insomnia, deafness, migraines and even signs of stomach ulcers were treated with the help of this vegetable crop. Such statements are not unfounded: even the well-known thinker Pythagoras noted that cabbage has wonderful properties of maintaining vigor of body and spirit. By the way, the name of cabbage most likely came from the ancient Roman word “kaput”, which meant “head”.

Cabbage heads were also highly valued in Ancient Greece: written sources with instructions on how to grow cabbage and how to care for it have been preserved. The treatment of many diseases, as well as strengthening the immune system, was recommended by cabbage by Hippocrates, a Greek healer, whose advice is still relevant and accurate.

It’s not for nothing that cabbage was called the first among vegetables in ancient Rome. This is truly an incredibly healthy crop, and this has already been proven by modern scientists: low calorie content and high content of nutrients and vitamins make cabbage attractive to many people. Those who want to reset excess weight without harm to health, who adheres to a diet according to medical indications If you want to overcome vitamin deficiency or simply keep your body in good shape and in excellent condition, you simply must pay special attention to cabbage and dishes with it.

But there are also many types of this vegetable: red and white cabbage, Brussels sprouts, Peking cabbage, Savoy, cauliflower, kohlrabi, broccoli... It is clear that the cabbage diet will not seem boring and monotonous: there are very, very many dishes made from white cabbage alone.

And the benefits will be truly impressive, because only in terms of vitamin C content, cabbage ranks on par with citrus fruits!

The guarantee of a rich harvest

Cabbage picking pattern: 1. Correct, 2,3,4. Incorrect (2. The root is bent, 3. The root is not in contact with the soil, 4. The seedling is shallowly peaked).

To grow such a healthy vegetable in your dacha, you need to follow simple rules. Firstly, the soil before planting cabbage must be well cultivated. Ideally, the predecessors should be new potatoes, onions, cucumbers or peas. And for late varieties of cabbage, fertile soils cultivated with herbs (annual and perennial) may also be suitable.

Growing a good harvest is also facilitated by preliminary soil preparation in the fall - hilling and fertilizing with compost. Plus, before planting cabbage in the spring, the beds are carefully dug up, having previously chosen the most optimal place for them, well-lit (the heads of cabbage do not develop well in constant shade), with well-moistened soil. Ideally, the air should be humid, and the optimal temperature should be +17-+20 degrees Celsius.

Growing cabbage becomes an easy and rewarding task when strong seedlings was correctly placed in the ground, the earth near it was tightly pressed and subsequently often loosened. Those who have a dacha located on low-lying areas of land can expect good growth cabbage It is only important to ensure that the water in the soil does not stagnate.

Planting cabbage

When general information Once the process of growing cabbage has been studied, you can begin the planting process itself.

Cabbage planting scheme.

For this you will need:

• cabbage seeds;
• soil mixture (peat or turf soil plus ash and humus);
• trays for seedlings;
• pots, cassettes or plastic cups for picking seedlings;
• fertilizer for feeding;
• watering can;
• weeding tools (for example, a small hoe).

After purchasing cabbage seeds, you should keep them in water whose temperature is about 50 degrees Celsius. Let the seeds lie in it and warm up for 15-20 minutes, and then you need to transfer them to cold water for five minutes. This kind of “hardening” will definitely yield results: the cabbage will be much more resistant to fungal diseases.

Next, the seeds are dried until they flow, and at this time you need to prepare the soil in special trays. Of course, for growing seedlings it is better to prepare the soil mixture in the fall, but if for some reason this was not done, you should not be upset. You need to mix equal amounts of humus with the selected type of soil (for example, turf soil), and then add a large number of ash. Ash plays the role of an additional source of nutrients and protection against diseases of cabbage seedlings. This entire mixture should be well mixed and placed in trays.

Then the seeds are sown in the prepared holes, watered with warm water. If you need fresh heads of cabbage at your dacha already in June-July, seeds for seedlings need to be sown in March. Mid-season varieties can be planted from the end of March until the twentieth of April, and cabbage of late varieties is sown on seedlings in April, until the last of April.

Scheme of film covering cabbage.

It is important to observe temperature and light conditions so that growing cabbage does not turn into a struggle for every healthy seedling. Seedlings that grow on the windowsill of a country house need to be illuminated with a regular lamp. Sprouts need light up to 15 hours a day! The temperature during the day should be on average plus 17, and at night - plus 10 degrees Celsius. We must not forget about feeding young seedlings: first, you need to water them so that the nutrient solution does not burn the stems, and then add fertilizer.

When the cabbage seedlings have become stronger, they can be planted in separate cups or cassettes. The main rule: you cannot use soil from the bed where cabbage was already growing. This threatens the transfer of plant pathogens to young seedlings.

10 days before planting seedlings in open ground, you can begin to harden them by opening a window in the cottage where the cassettes with seedlings are located. First for a couple of hours, and then for the whole night.

Before you start growing cabbage in the open ground of your garden, you need to make sure that the soil is prepared, fertilized, well watered, and that the seedlings have at least four full leaves.

A useful tip for those who want to know how to grow cabbage in the country: early varieties can be planted in the garden as early as April 25. Mid-season varieties are recommended to be placed in the ground in mid-May, and late-ripening varieties - at the end of the last spring month.

Experienced summer residents advise planting seedlings not in sunny weather. Ideally, it should be late afternoon and the weather should be cloudy. And in the first days it is better to create artificial shading for cabbage seedlings.

Proper care

Growing cabbage involves not only proper landing, but also cultural care. Cabbage loves moisture very much. On hot days it must be watered, and abundantly. If you do not water the cabbage for a long time and then give a lot of water at once, the heads of cabbage will be susceptible to cracking. Water for irrigation should be warm, it should be supplied in the morning or evening at least once a week, and especially abundantly during the setting of heads of cabbage. To prevent aphids and snails from harming the cabbage, it is recommended to sprinkle the heads of cabbage and the ground next to them with ash (wood).

If you remove weeds in time, weed ridges and rows, water and feed the plant, growing cabbage will bear abundant fruit. This vegetable is good because early-ripening varieties will delight you with crispy heads of cabbage in the summer, while late-ripening varieties are ideal for pickling or long-term storage until the next season. Moreover, not a single useful element is lost at this time, and the head of cabbage retains its fresh appearance and pleasant taste.

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How to grow cabbage in an open home garden: preparation, planting and caring for plants - Agronom.com

How to grow cabbage in an open home garden: preparation, planting and caring for plants

Cabbage dishes are a decoration of many national cuisines.

The reason for this popularity lies in the unusually wide zoning of this plant, as well as the beneficial properties that it possesses.

With all this, growing cabbage is a fairly simple process that will not be difficult for either experienced gardeners or novice amateurs.

In any case, we are going to devote this article to all the features of the process of preparing, planting and caring for cabbage, revealing all the secrets of the most successful professionals.

Also, we will introduce you to some varieties of this plant, and teach you to understand the main criteria by which these varieties are distinguished from each other.

How to properly prepare for planting cabbage: we share the secrets of experienced gardeners and agronomists

Planting cabbage includes many aspects, among which a very important place is occupied by choosing a good place for planting, preparing both the soil and seeds for planting. However, do not be intimidated by such a large list - we will reveal all these questions to you in very detail and simply, making you experienced gardener on a theoretical level.

We select good conditions for the growth of cabbage and get acquainted with other features necessary for this plant

Turning to the peculiarities of growing this plant, one cannot help but dwell on the distinctive features of cabbage itself, which must be taken into account when propagating it.

The great advantage of cabbage is its good resistance to low temperatures, which is very important when taking into account the long growing season of this plant.

In particular, even early varieties, when planted in open ground without seedlings, continue their growing season for 90-120 days. It is for this reason that planting cabbage in open ground without using seedlings, which we want to tell you about, is not a particularly common method, since it is used according to middle latitude And northern regions absolutely not possible.

Taking into account the light-loving nature of this plant, it can only be planted in well-lit beds that are not shaded during almost the entire daylight hours. The optimal amount of light time required for cabbage to fully develop is 13 hours.

You should also know that cabbage is a biennial plant. In the first year, the head ripens directly from the seeds or seedlings, which is intended for consumption. In the second year, a peduncle grows from the resulting head, from which seeds can be collected closer to the end of summer.

Preparing the soil for planting cabbage: how to loosen and fertilize correctly?

Before you prepare the soil, you need to choose it correctly. Of course, with the help of fertilizers you can improve the fertility of any type of soil, but it is preferable to plant cabbage in structures with a high level of natural fertility.

A good option is loam, which contains a large amount of humus. Thanks to this, moisture is retained in the soil much better and longer, nourishing the root system of the plant. Another important requirement for soil characteristics is the absence of acidity or a very low level of this indicator.

Ideally, the predecessors of cabbage in the garden should be plants such as cucumbers, onions, various root vegetables, legumes or grain crops. After the growth of such plants, a lot of those substances remain in the soil. nutrients, which cabbage needs for successful growth and head formation.

It is important to know that you cannot plant cabbage in the same bed for more than 2-3 years in a row. It is better to let the soil rest under other plants for 4 years.

Preparing the soil for sowing cabbage seeds should be done from the beginning of spring. At this time, it needs to be dug deep enough, saturating it with the necessary oxygen. In the garden you should make not very wide beds, about 1 meter.

If your garden is located in a place where water comes to the surface, it is very important to dig deep trenches around the bed.

Fertilizers should be added to the soil (calculating a bed area of ​​1 m2):

• About 1-1.5 buckets (10-15 liters) of humus that has managed to settle. It's also good to use compost.
• Superphosphate in the amount of 2 tablespoons.
• 1 tablespoon potassium sulfate.
• If possible, you can also add 2 tablespoons of complex fertilizer to the soil.

The most popular varieties of cabbage and their differences

All varieties and hybrids of cabbage are divided into 5 main groups, the main criterion for which is the ripening time of the heads of cabbage. At the same time, the difference in ripening of the earliest and latest varieties can be 50-70 days.

1. Group early ripening varieties cabbage The growing season lasts for 105-120 days, the heads of cabbage ripen already at the beginning of summer.

The main use of such cabbage is to eat it directly fresh. Such cabbage is absolutely unsuitable for pickling or storing for winter period. These include: “Iyunskaya” (heads of cabbage up to 1 kilogram), “Golden Hectare” (5-8.5 kilograms of harvest per 1 m2), “Dietmarsher” (heads of cabbage weighing about 2.5 kilograms), “Gift” (from an area From 6 to 10 kilograms of cabbage heads are collected per 1 m2).

• Mid-early varieties of cabbage. They ripen about 10 days later than the earlier ones. This type of cabbage is usually used fresh in the fall; it can also be fermented, but only for immediate consumption (good taste qualities stores only for 2-3 months)

The most popular varieties in this group are the varieties “Stakhanovka” (heads of cabbage weighing 1.5-2.5 kilograms), “Langedeikererle” (very large and dense heads of cabbage, weighing up to 5 kilograms), “F1 Metino” (3 kilograms heads of cabbage that do not crack).

• Mid-season cabbage - ripens within 131-145 days from the moment the seeds are sown. These varieties are more suitable for long-term storage and are good for pickling.

It is worth paying your attention to the variety “Slava 1305”, which has very large and dense heads of white color weighing up to 5 kilograms, as well as “Slava Gribovskaya 231” with almost the same large heads of cabbage.

• Cabbage varieties classified as mid-late varieties have the widest economic use, although they have to wait a long time for ripening - 146-160 days.

Heads of such cabbage are simply ideal if stored in a dry and cool place. “Urozhaynaya” (the weight of heads of cabbage ranges from 2.9 to 4.5 kilograms) and “Final” (stable yield up to 50 tons per hectare) are very popular.

• Late ripening varieties of cabbage. Although the safety of the harvest of this group of varieties is at its best high level, however, due to the long ripening period (from 161 to 185 days), in many regions it can freeze slightly.

These are the cabbage “Bagaevskaya” (head up to 5 kilograms), “Valentina F1” (yield of an area of ​​1 m2 - 8 kilograms), “Sorcerer F1” (fruits 2.5-3.5 kilograms).

Only early varieties can be sown in open ground, late varieties only under film.

How to prepare seeds for planting in open ground

In order to improve the stability of seeds and future plants, they are treated with hot water.

To do this, cabbage seeds are filled with water at a temperature of 40-45ºC for 15 minutes, and then immersed in cold water for several minutes.

Also, it is very important to keep them in nutrient solution from any mineral fertilizers.

In order for the seeds to harden, they still need to be sent for a day to a cold place with a temperature of 1-2ºC, after being washed in cold water. This room can be either a basement or a refrigerator.

Features of landing: main stages and rules

In order for the head of cabbage to have time to form well and ripen, seeds and seedlings need to be sown and planted in a clear certain deadlines. Otherwise, the plant will get sick, develop poorly, and the harvest will not be at all what you expected from the variety you chose.

When can cabbage seeds be sown in open ground?

You should not start sowing very early, because spring frosts can deprive you of seedlings. It is best to sow seeds after the first of May, although in the southern regions this can be done after the first of April, or even at the beginning of March.

Thus, even when planting cabbage seeds in open ground, early varieties of cabbage will be able to produce a harvest by July 20-August. Also, you should not delay this matter, since in August, in 20-30 days, the first autumn frosts may begin, which can greatly harm the already almost ripe, but not sustainable, harvest.

Also, sowing cabbage seeds, especially early varieties, cannot be done at the same time. By leaving a gap of 2-3 days between sowings, you will also extend the ripening time of the crop.

Scheme of sowing seeds and planting cabbage seedlings

Sowing cabbage seeds in the ground is carried out in grooves specially prepared for this purpose, 1 centimeter deep, and a distance of 3-4 centimeters between them. Seeds before these very it's important to dry it a little so that they do not stick to your hands, because the seeds are placed in the grooves one at a time at a distance of 1 centimeter.

The soil is then lightly compacted. In good weather, seedlings will be visible within a week. When the plants reach such a size that they begin to interfere with each other, they need to be planted.

When planting seedlings of early cabbage varieties, the space between two rows of plants should be at least 40-45 centimeters. But in the rows between two plants a distance of 20-25 centimeters will be sufficient.

For later varieties, the planting pattern will be significantly different. In particular, the row spacing will be from 50 to 60 centimeters, and the space between two heads of cabbage will be at least 30 centimeters.

How to provide cabbage with the necessary care: the most important instructions

Unfortunately, cabbage cannot grow without regular care. By letting it grow into a wild plant, you risk being left without a harvest. She needs to constantly maintain a certain level of soil moisture and do not forget to remove all weeds from the garden bed, which can greatly slow down the development of the cabbage itself.

In addition, there are a large number of pests and diseases that can sometimes cause great harm to the future harvest. All this requires the gardener to pay careful attention to the beds in which the cabbage is planted, as well as to perform the actions described below.

Cabbage diseases and pests: how to resist and fight

For prevention against aphids, various slugs and snails cabbage recommended dust with wood ash. In this case, about a glass of this substance is used per 1 m2. You can also use tobacco.

Cabbage is also treated with various chemicals aimed at destroying or combating a specific problem. If you are an opponent of chemicals, pests can be collected from the plant by hand, while trying to destroy the eggs they lay.

Infusions made from burdock, tomato tops or onion peels are effective against insects.

Today, various covering methods of combating them are very often used, using special non-covering materials.

But in any case, the most important thing is to be attentive to the plants, constantly monitoring their condition.

Providing moisture to cabbage beds

Cabbage loves moisture very much, so watering a must for her must be regular.

Water each plant immediately after planting; the interval between waterings should not be longer than 3-4 days from the moment of the previous watering. This regularity should be maintained for two weeks, using about 6-8 liters of water per 1 m2. Then watering is carried out only once a week, using 10-12 liters for the same area of ​​the bed.

For early varieties, abundant watering is preferable in June, but for late varieties - in August. It is very important to water this plant only in the morning or evening, using water at a temperature of at least 18 ºС.

A little about feeding cabbage: what fertilizers can be used and in what quantities?

I feed cabbage often and a lot. The first application of fertilizers to the soil is carried out 20 days after planting in a permanent place.

A mullein solution is used: 0.5 liters per 10 liters of water. For each plant you need to spend about 0.5 liters.

The next feeding is carried out after about 10 days. This time the amount of fertilizer needed by one plant increases to 1 liter.

Also, you will need to add 1 tablespoon of crystalline to the solution described above.

Mullein can also be replaced with chicken droppings.

The described two feedings are necessary for both early and late varieties of cabbage.

The third feeding should be carried out only for late cabbage; it is carried out in June. Add 2 tablespoons of superphosphate to a solution of 10 liters of water.

About 6-8 liters of fertilizer are used for an area of ​​1 m2. This feeding can be repeated in August, using nitrophoska.

Stabbing cabbage: what is it and why is it needed?

Stabbing cabbage should be done even when it is at the seedling stage. This is only necessary for those plants that were originally grown in greenhouses or in the house.

So, another 15-20 days before its transplantation, it is slaughtered with low temperatures and light. In order for the seedlings to be more resistant to low temperatures, they lift the film over them or take the boxes out onto the balcony.

You just can’t allow the temperature to drop below 5-6 ºС. Naturally, this should be done during the daytime and in clear weather, so that the plant receives as much sunlight as possible.

Timing and other features of cabbage harvest

Early cabbage can be harvested already at the end of July - beginning of August, and in southern regions– even at the end of June. In this case, the heads of cabbage need to be cut with a sharp knife, since the stalk of this plant is very dense.

Late cabbage, which will be stored all winter, is harvested last - in the last days of October and the first days of November. If you set yourself the goal of sourdough cabbage, then you need it remove from the beds in mid-October.

To store cabbage better, it is cut with a fairly long stump. Also, it is important to leave a few green leaves near the head of cabbage that do not fit tightly to it. During storage, it is very important to maintain a stable low temperature of 0 to 5 ºC. Optimal humidity air should be within the range of 80-85%.

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Country Living | Growing cabbage in open ground - little tricks.

Growing cabbage

Many summer residents grow cabbage in their gardens. Not because this vegetable is not on sale or is too expensive. People want to grow and then use environmentally friendly products for their home table. And since summer residents grow cabbage, they have various cabbage questions. What varieties to plant, how to care for them, when to harvest them, and others.

Different varieties of cabbage.

When planning to plant cabbage, you need to take into account that there are both varieties, as well as early and late varieties. Varieties: white, red, kohlrabi, cauliflower, Savoy, Brussels sprout. Who likes what?

The most common planting is white cabbage. And here it is important to correctly calculate how much to plant early and how much late in winter. In my experience, when I once planted a lot of early cabbage, and we didn’t have time to eat it, it instantly outgrew and cracked. It's like a salad, a radish - if you don't have time to harvest it in time, it means it's thrown away. Or to feed animals who have them.

But it is better to plant more late cabbage. It is stored well in winter in a cool place. In winter, tasty, juicy vitamins are always handy. It needs to be planted less often so that the heads of cabbage are large and dense. I have about 60 cm between seedlings. I plant seedlings in a narrow bed.

And one more piece of advice– cabbage beds, cover with black lutrasil (this is a non-woven synthetic material made of polypropylene fiber). Early cabbage in such a bed sets well, the heads of cabbage are good without loosening or hilling.

Removing the lower leaves.

One of the cabbage questions is: should the leaves be removed when the heads begin to set? Almost unanimously, the summer residents decided that only the most lower leaves lying on the ground. They give this advice, as a rule, because they are used to doing it, and not because they know how.

It is better not to remove the leaves. Removing them reduces the yield. Lightly removing the leaves (breaking them off) helps the cabbage produce hormones that increase yield. But people are so keen on breaking off leaves that the effect is reversed. So it is better not to interfere with the natural growth process.

Do not cut off the leaves under any circumstances, they are involved in the formation of the head! Leaves can be plucked only from the lowest ones, which lie on the ground, and the rest provide food for the formation of the head.

Cabbage pest control.

The second cabbage question is what to do if cabbage is attacked by pests? There are many chemicals available to combat them. But how to grow organic cabbage?

The main pests are cabbage butterfly caterpillars. I usually infuse garlic: I dig up a few fresh garlic cloves with herbs or take ready-made dry heads, about 5-7 by eye, cut into large pieces, pour two liters of running water, and the whole thing infuses for two days. Then I filter the solution and spray the cabbage. If garlic solution remains, you can sprinkle fruit trees- not prevent. Aphids and other pests also live there.

It is also recommended (but I have not tried) to water the cabbage with a solution of 9% vinegar 2-3 times per season (add a glass of vinegar to a 7-liter watering can). Pests do not attack heads of cabbage watered with this solution. You need to water the cabbage not at the root, but give it a shower. The effect of using vinegar is that the heads of cabbage grow dense and the cabbage is very tasty.

Harvesting cabbage.

From the end of June you can already cut off early cabbage. The indicator of readiness is a pronounced head. It cannot be hard, but it is not soft either. It’s just that early varieties are not intended for storage; the interleaf layers are large. Mainly used for salads and first courses. As the cabbage matures, it must be harvested. Overexposure is fraught with the fact that the head of cabbage cracks and from there the next generation of cabbage grows for seeds. Therefore, it is important not to miss this.

Late varieties can be kept on the ground for a long time, right up to frost. If you didn’t have time to harvest before the frost, and the cabbage is frozen, you need to let it thaw on the vine, and only then cut it.

By following these little tricks, you will delight yourself and your loved ones with environmentally friendly, tasty and healthy products grown with your own hands and with soul.

White cabbage is one of the leading vegetable crops and is very widely cultivated by gardeners in their garden plots. The wild relative of the crop is currently not known for certain.

Biological features

White cabbage is a vegetable crop belonging to the Brassica family. (Brassicaceae Burnett) and the Cabbage family (Brassica L.) A synonym for the family is called Cruciferous (Cruciferae Jussus).

In the first year of the growing season, the plant develops a stalk-stem. Solid sheets are large in size. The upper and lower leaves, densely located on the stump, intersecting, form a head of cabbage.

Early ripening varieties have a rosette of 10-15 leaves. Mid-season varieties have 20-25 medium-sized petiolate leaves. Late-ripening ones are characterized by the presence of 25-30 long petiolate leaves.

The following year, leafy flowering shoots develop from the stem buds, the height of which does not exceed 150 cm. The inflorescence is represented by a brush. Standard flowers of large sizes. The fruits are long pods. The seed material is round-angular in shape, black with a brown tint. The diameter of the seed does not exceed 2 mm.

The best varieties and modern hybrids

Selection work to develop new, most promising varieties and hybrids of white cabbage is carried out by both Russian and foreign specialists.

However, along with new products, some time-tested varieties do not lose their relevance.

Early ripening varieties

Name	Peculiarities	Today, according to most gardeners, the following early-ripening varieties of cabbage deserve special attention.	Productivity
Sustainability indicators	"June"	Ultra early ripening variety. Oval-shaped heads of cabbage weighing 1.0-2.5 kg. Used fresh.	from 2.0 to 6.0 kg per m²
Average resistance to diseases. If harvesting is not done in a timely manner, cracking of the heads of cabbage is observed.	"Transfer-F1"	Ripens in a maximum of 120 days. The fruits are round, weighing up to 1.5 kg.	up to 6.0 kg per 1 m²
Average disease resistance. No tendency to crack.	"Copenhagen Market"	Ripens in a maximum of 115 days. The average weight of a ripe vegetable is from 1.5 to 2.5 kg.	up to 4.5 kg per 1 m²
Average resistance to diseases. High resistance to cracking.	"Ditmarskaya Early"	105-115 days pass before the onset of technical maturity. The weight of the head of cabbage is 1.5 kg.	up to 5.5 kg per 1 m²
The variety is resistant to mucous and vascular bacteriosis, as well as clubroot.	From full germination to harvest – 102-110 days. The fruits are small, about 1.5-2.5 kg.	from 5.0 to 8.5 kg per 1 m²	Average indicators of disease resistance. Resistant to flowering and drought-resistant.

Mid-season varieties

It is possible to obtain a high yield of medium ripening when growing the following varieties.

Name	Peculiarities	Today, according to most gardeners, the following early-ripening varieties of cabbage deserve special attention.	Productivity
"Present"	The ripening period is 130 days. The shape of the heads of cabbage is round or flat-round. The weight of the heads is from 2.5 to 4.5 kg.	up to 15.0 kg per m²
"Menza F1"	After planting the seedlings, 115 days pass before they ripen. The shape of the fruit is round-flat, the stump is very small. Head weight is from 4 to 9 kg.	about 15.0 kg per 1 m²	Average indicators of disease resistance.
"Slava 1305"	No more than 137 days pass from germination to harvest. Head weight is from 4 to 5 kg.	up to 12.5 kg per 1 m²	Average resistance to diseases. Resistant to mucous bacteriosis.
"Slava Gribovskaya-231"	The ripening of heads of cabbage occurs in 125 days. The weight of the fetus ranges from 1.7 to 4.5 kg.	up to 9.0 kg per 1 m²	Average disease resistance. Quite frequent cracking of heads of cabbage.
"Caporal-F1"	Ripens in 90-100 days, forming heads weighing from 2.5 to 5 kg.	from 5 to 8.5 kg per 1 m²	Highly resistant to drought and heat, not affected by fusarium

Late ripening varieties

Late-ripening varieties are in demand as vegetable products with a long shelf life, as well as in canning.

Name	Peculiarities	Today, according to most gardeners, the following early-ripening varieties of cabbage deserve special attention.	Productivity
"Amager"	Technical ripeness of heads of cabbage occurs in 129-148 days. The fruits are high density, weighing from 2.3 to 3.6 kg.	up to 15.0 kg per m²	The variety is moderately resistant to diseases, but is susceptible to vascular bacteriosis.
"Kolobok-F1"	Ripening in 115-125 days. The shape of the heads of cabbage is round. The weight of a dense head of cabbage is 2-3 kg.	Yield indicators are about 12.0 kg per 1 m²	Good resistance to mucous and vascular bacteriosis, various types of rot, and Fusarium wilt.
"Valentina-F1"	Hybrid for long-term storage and fresh consumption. Full ripening - in 140-180 days. The weight of the head of cabbage is 3.2–3.8 kg.	Up to 8.0 kg per 1 m²	Resistant to Fusarium wilt.
"Kolobok-F1"	The ripeness of heads of cabbage occurs 145–160 days after germination. Weight 4.2 kg.	about 8.0–9.0 kg per 1 m²	Average disease resistance.
"Biryuchekutskaya138"	Approximately 140–170 days until the heads of cabbage are technically ripe. The head of cabbage is flat-rounded, weighing up to 5 kg.	about 9.0-10.0 kg per 1 m²	The variety is resistant to bacteriosis. The most heat-resistant variety.

Landing rules

Despite the apparent ease of cultivation, this vegetable crop is quite demanding in terms of conditions such as quality soil composition, sowing time seed material, important and correct scheme landings.

How to grow early cabbage (video)

Soil requirements

Soil density is not particularly important. It is the chemical or qualitative composition of the soil that largely determines the yield. The best option is to use for planting an area with very fertile, humus-enriched soil with a neutral pH reaction.

In addition, it is important to comply with the following requirements:

• the described vegetable should be grown in open areas with good lighting;
• V autumn period to prepare the planting area, add manure, compost or peat at the rate of 4 kg per 1 m²;
• in the spring, mineral, phosphorus and potash fertilizers at the rate of 36 g of superphosphate and 18 g of potassium salt or potassium chloride per 1 m²;
• The pH acidity of the soil should be 6.5-7.5;
• application of fertilizers must be accompanied by high-quality and deep digging of the soil;
• you should be very careful about observing crop rotation and grow white cabbage in one area no more than three years;
• the best predecessors for this vegetable crop are cucumbers, legumes, onions and most root vegetables;
• The optimal garden crops cultivated before white cabbage cannot be cabbage crops, beets, tomatoes, turnips, radishes, radishes. After growing them, the crop can be returned to the ridges only after 4 years.

Particular attention should be paid to soil moisture. In addition, sowing seeds and planting seedlings should not be done on sandy soils.

Time for sowing seeds

When cultivating cabbage in a seedless way It is possible to preserve the tap root of a vegetable crop, which can be located at a depth of 2 m, where it obtains moisture.

When sowing in open ground, the following terms should be adhered to:

• early varieties need to be sown from the end of April to mid-May;
• late varieties need to be sown in the second or third ten days of May;
• Medium ripening varieties must be sown in the third ten days of May or the first ten days of June.

Summer residents grow a significant part of the seedling material in film greenhouses:

• seeds of early ripening varieties should be sown in the first ten days of March;
• seed material of late-ripening varieties should be sown from mid-March to mid-April;
• The last to be sown is mid-season cabbage, which is sown from the last ten days of April to mid-May.

Sowing dates may vary slightly depending on the region of cultivation, as well as weather conditions.

Growing cabbage seedlings

For getting decent harvest You should perform a number of activities listed below.

• The seeds must pass pre-sowing preparation, which consists of briefly soaking dry seeds in hot water at a temperature of 50 °C.
• Next, the seed material is cooled and transferred to water with microelements for 12 hours.
• After preplanting treatment, the seed material is dried and sown according to standard sowing dates.
• At the stage of forming the first pair of real sheets, the first foliar feeding seedlings with basic microelements.
• At the beginning of hardening, a second foliar feeding is performed. The leaves are treated with a solution based on 1 tbsp. l. urea and the same amount of potassium sulfate, diluted in a bucket of water. For each seedling, 200 g of the prepared solution should be used.

The seedlings will be ready for planting in open ground beds if they have 4-6 leaves.

Planting scheme

High-quality seedlings of early-ripening varieties should be placed at a distance of 0.35 m. The standard distance when planting late-ripening cabbage is about 0.7 m. When planting seedlings of mid-ripening cabbage, it is necessary to focus on the distance of seedlings of 0.6 m from each other.

Features of care

Compliance with agricultural technology is of no small importance for the formation bountiful harvest.

Cabbage: from seedlings to harvest (video)

Fertilizer application

With high-quality pre-planting soil preparation for sowing or planting seedlings, it is necessary to adhere to the following fertilizer application scheme:

• 14 days after planting, it is necessary to add urea, superphosphates and potassium salt to the soil in a ratio of 1:2:1.5;
• the second feeding should be carried out during the fruit formation phase. Urea and potassium salt should be used in a ratio of 1.5:1.

The efficiency of fertilizers can be increased by combining fertilizing with watering.

Rules for watering at different stages of development

Cabbage is a very moisture-loving vegetable crop that consumes about 9 cubic meters of water per 100 kg of produce. Irrigation technology is based on taking into account the following factors:

• significant watering is necessary for the plant during the phases of formation and growth of heads of cabbage;
• when growing early white cabbage in light soil and climate conditions middle zone in our country, watering should be carried out at least 5-6 times per season;
• Cultivation of early ripening varieties on soils that are too heavy or dense requires watering 3-4 times per growing season.

The number of waterings when cultivating mid- and late-ripening varieties should be increased by 1.5 times.

Additional types of care

In addition to watering, you should pay attention to the following care measures:

• performing regular shallow loosening of the soil between the rows;
• During the loosening process, any weeds in the white cabbage growing area should be removed as thoroughly as possible.

The square cultivation method using mechanical processing involves the first loosening of the soil longitudinally. After half a month, loosening the soil should be carried out in the opposite direction.

Main diseases of cabbage

Timely detection of the disease and proper use of the right drugs for prevention and treatment are the most important principles getting high and stable harvest.

Disease	Peculiarities	Signs of defeat
Kila	Most often, plants become infected in soil that is too wet at the stage of growing seedlings.	At first, the plants wilt slightly, and growths and swellings are recorded on the root system.	The diseased plant must be dug up and destroyed. The soil is disinfected with Bordeaux mixture or formaldehyde. The next planting should be carried out no earlier than 5 years.
Fusarium	Seedlings are most often affected.	The seedling material completely withers or dies. Mature plants reduce the yield and quality of heads of cabbage.	Treating the soil with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. Treatment with hot pepper infusion. Compliance with the rules of agricultural technology and cultivation of disease-resistant hybrids or varieties.
Blackleg	Seedlings in greenhouses are more susceptible to damage when crops are thickened and there is insufficient lighting.	Darkening of the stem part near the root collar, followed by thinning, which causes curvature and lodging of the stems.	Steam treatment, treatment of seed material and soil with fungicides, elimination of waterlogging, compliance with agricultural technology.
White and gray rot	By-effect insufficient potassium or phosphorus supplements, as well as neglect of storage conditions.	The appearance of weeping, mucous-type spots with a characteristic coating on the leaf plate.	Compliance with crop rotation and agricultural technology. Carrying out processing of storage facilities before storing vegetable products.

Pests and methods of controlling them

Quite often, cabbage is affected by the most common pests for any cruciferous crop. The cultivated plant needs protection throughout growing season.

Pest	Peculiarities	Signs of defeat	Methods of treatment and prevention
slugs	The pest appears in the last month of spring.	The pest eats a huge amount of cabbage green mass.	The main method of destroying slugs is to collect them manually, as well as install traps.
flea beetles	Small black bugs	The appearance of numerous holes on young leaves. Massive pest damage can cause the death of the plant.	The use of drugs "Actellik", "Bankol", "Karate", "Decis" and "Bi-58".
cabbage fly	A species of short-whiskered dipterans from the family of flower flies, or Anthomyiidae.	When plants are damaged, the root system suffers. Cabbage stunts and wilts. If the damage is significant, the plant dies.	Systematic treatment weekly with 5.5% DDT or 12% hexachlorane solution.
cabbage moth	A species of butterfly from the sickle-winged moth family.	An outbreak of mass reproduction of cabbage moth leads to the death of young plants due to damage to the central rosettes.	The use of bacterial preparations “Lepidocid”, “Dendrobacillin”, “Bitoxibacilin”, “Dipel” and “Bactospein”.

Early ripening varieties are collected selectively. Cutting is carried out as it matures. To protect the heads of cabbage ready for cutting from cracking, bend them a couple of times in one direction. Mid-season and late varieties must be cut at one time. Heads of cabbage that are intended to be preserved are cut at the most late dates.

How to choose the right cabbage seeds (video)

Reviews and comments

(2 ratings, average: 4,50 out of 5)

Sveta 09.22.2015

Cabbage is sensitive to the climate in which it is stored. Not only temperature is important here, but also humidity: if it is too dry in the cellar or basement, then the cabbage will wither, and if it is too humid, it will begin to rot. I have a good cellar with a hood (pipe), late cabbage I put it on wooden shelves, and so it is stored until the summer.

Marikha 10/08/2015

My main problems are slug pests and high humidity. If the first problem can be somehow dealt with, then excessive humidity I can not. This summer was rainy and my hair was cracked. Unfortunately, there is no help in this matter.

Alexandrovna 10/14/2015

I found a way to fight slugs - I simply sprinkle salt around the plant. They just burn out from it. But cracked cabbage, yes, is a problem. I’ll try to do it next year as advised in the article.

Olga 02/16/2016

My main problem is cabbage fly. You may not notice it right away, but it lays eggs and the larvae devour the stem from the inside, unnoticed. Seedlings that have already taken root and are growing die die - it’s a shame. And slugs appear in September, in already formed heads of cabbage, when it becomes cooler and more humid. Yes, salt helps with them.

Lina 03/02/2017

I only discovered celery last summer. It grows well and does not require care. True, it was leaf celery. Super aromatic and spicy greens. This season I will definitely try to grow root celery. After all, such celery has double benefits - the tuber and greens are edible. The month of March is just the right time to plant it. I hope I can do it.

Elena 03/05/2017
Celery is, indeed, not a difficult vegetable to grow, but the benefits are enormous.
I also, as recommended in the article, plant more than 15 plants at the dacha, and for our family of two people, this is quite enough. We eat celery greens all summer, and tubers the rest of the time.

When preparing dishes, I add celery to almost all first courses and many second courses. The food turns out tasty, aromatic and healthy.

Svetlana 03/05/2017

Celery is a healthy and tasty product. I often go on vegetable diets and not a single salad is complete without celery. Moreover, the product has a beneficial effect on blood vessels and heart function.

Alena 04/24/2017

Nadezhda 12/13/2017
I grew different types of cabbage and decided for myself that I would only plant broccoli: firstly, it is expensive in stores, secondly, it does not require much care, and thirdly, it is very healthy. It is only important to protect from aphids and not to miss the moment of collection, otherwise it will fade.

In general, kohlrabi grew well, but my family didn’t really want to eat it. I liked the Brussels one because it harvested until the frosts. In my opinion, it’s not worth planting white cabbage at all - it’s easier to buy than to waste time and effort on care.

You can't grow good cabbage without good seedlings. Our apartment is shady, so year after year the seedlings turned out to be weak, and as a result, the harvest was often poor. But about ten years ago we started buying high-quality seedlings from the local state farm. It is rooted in a peat cube, strong, healthy, as a result, it does not burn out when sowing, and grows quickly and well. Since then we have had an abundance of cabbage.

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Get bountiful harvest You can grow vegetables even without much experience in gardening. You just need to follow the sowing dates and know all the features of growing cabbage in open ground.

Cabbage is a very healthy and versatile vegetable to prepare: it can be fried, stewed, boiled and baked. It is used fresh for preparing salads and cold appetizers, is included in many first and second courses, and makes delicious stews and excellent fillings for pies. In addition, it should be noted that cabbage is one of the unpretentious garden crops and providing her with favorable conditions is not difficult. But still successful cultivation white cabbage depends on compliance with basic requirements.

The soil under the garden bed is fertilized in the fall by adding manure, humus or compost for deep digging.

The soil under the garden bed is fertilized in the fall by adding manure, humus or compost for deep digging at the rate of half a bucket per 1 square meter. m area. You need to use mineral fertilizers as carefully as possible, since cabbage tends to accumulate nitrates. Therefore, it is better to abandon them completely or use them in a reduced dosage.

Moisture for cabbage is extremely important and directly affects the formation of the crop. This exactingness can be explained simply - the water flowing to the roots evaporates intensively large leaves, causing plants to quickly lose moisture. Therefore, if there is insufficient rainfall, it is necessary to provide regular watering, preferably by sprinkling, in order to saturate not only the soil, but also the air with moisture.

If you have sandy soil at your dacha, then cabbage beds It is better to choose lowlands, places near a pond, or plant where it is easier to organize watering.

Video about growing cabbage

Sowing seeds directly into the soil saves you from unnecessary hassle.

There are two ways to grow cabbage: by sowing seeds in open ground or through. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. This way, planting seedlings allows you to get earlier harvests and provide care for growing plants, which is important when growing in the country, when it is not possible to visit the site every day. On the other hand, sowing seeds directly into the ground saves you the unnecessary hassle of placing containers with seedlings and subsequent replanting.

When sowing cabbage immediately in a permanent place, it is better to cover the hole. glass jars or transparent plastic bottles with a cut bottom. This will create “greenhouse” conditions for the speedy germination of seeds and the formation of a rosette. And only when the leaves become cramped under the cover, it is removed.

Also, when planning to grow your own cabbage, it is worth deciding on the seed material, the varietal characteristics of which will determine the sowing time and, accordingly, the expected harvest time.

1. Early cabbage is distinguished by its tender leaves gathered into loose, medium-sized heads. The harvest can be obtained after 90-100 days from the emergence of seedlings. The most popular varieties are June, Express, Golden Hectare, Transfer F1. Sowing of seeds is carried out from March 10 to March 25.
2. Medium cabbage is grown for summer consumption and homemade preserves. Heads of cabbage are ready for harvesting 4-5 months after sowing the seeds. Varieties - Slava 1305, Symphony F1, Zastolny F1 and others. Sown from the end of March to April 10.
3. Late cabbage with a long ripening period. Its dense, hard heads of cabbage tolerate transportation well and can be stored for a long time, therefore it is most often grown for consumption in winter time. Proven varieties: Stone Head, Kharkovskaya Zimnyaya, Morozko, Arktika F1, Garant F1. It is recommended to sow for seedlings or in open ground from April 5 to April 20.

It is also worth saying that if seedlings are grown on a windowsill at a temperature high enough for cabbage room temperature, she tolerates transplantation and adaptation very painfully, so she must be hardened two weeks before disembarkation. You can save yourself from these hassles by sowing seeds at your dacha in a greenhouse or film greenhouses, where during the day the air is warmed by the intense spring sun, and at night the temperature drops to sub-zero levels.

Video about choosing seeds

There are no exact dates for planting seedlings, but a characteristic feature has been noticed - the younger the rosettes, the faster they take root in a new place. Therefore, if the cabbage has already formed 2-3 true leaves, it is quite ready for planting.

Before planting, seedlings need to be watered generously, especially if they were grown in ordinary containers and not in peat cups

Having chosen a place for the garden bed, dig up or loosen the soil that has become compacted during the winter, level it with a rake and prepare the holes according to the planting pattern:

• for early varieties and hybrids – 30x40 cm;
• medium-ripening cabbages are planted at a distance of 50x60 cm;
• large heads of late varieties will need at least 55x70 cm.

Before planting, seedlings need to be watered generously, especially if they were grown in ordinary containers and not in peat cups. The same applies when growing seedlings in a greenhouse, because plants that are saturated with moisture will more easily tolerate transplantation, and it’s easier to remove them from loose soil. The holes are also watered with water and, without waiting for it to be completely absorbed, young cabbage rosettes are planted directly into this mud. After replanting, the bushes are again generously watered and mulched with wood shavings with the addition of crushed eggshells. Such a shelter will prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture and protect the plantings from the invasion of slugs, which simply cannot overcome the “prickly” barrier.

Abundant and repeated watering during replanting will ensure that the cabbage roots penetrate deep into the soil, where the plant will have the opportunity to independently obtain moisture without requiring frequent watering.

Video about sowing seedlings

Garden bed care

Further care for cabbage consists of protecting it from numerous pests, preventing diseases, as well as controlling moisture levels and regular weeding.

Video about caring for planted cabbage

An excellent way to solve problems with protection is the use of modern drugs such as Prestige, which has both insecticidal and fungicidal properties. And in this case, you should not be afraid of using “chemistry”, because the effect of the drug is limited to two months, after which it completely disintegrates. Therefore, if you strictly follow the instructions and treat cabbage with such a disinfectant at the seedling stages, you can protect it from the cruciferous flea beetle, cabbage fly, cutworm and aphid, and also prevent the development of fungal diseases.

But you can grow kaputa without any “chemistry” at all. Organic measures to combat insects can be dusting wet cabbage leaves with wood ash and tobacco dust with the addition of ground red pepper powder. A good protection for dacha plantings would be joint planting of cabbage with garlic, nasturtium, marigolds or blackbrows, which repel pests with their smell.

Various types of cabbage, traditional and exotic, are grown in domestic gardens. The white variety of this vegetable is used in folk cooking and medicine. It is cultivated in open ground and bears rich fruits when proper care. Although this is an unpretentious plant, there are secrets to planting and growing it.

Cabbage in open ground produces excellent yields

Varieties

The varieties of white cabbage grown are as follows:

• early (ripen 2-3 months after planting and with appropriate care);
• medium (removed after 3-5 months);
• late (after six months).

Preparation

White cabbage is planted in open ground as seedlings. She does not withstand transplantation well. It can be grown in peat tablets or pots, soil mixtures are also prepared (peat, turf soil and sand, 1 part each).

The grown seedlings are planted after one and a half to two months, when they have developed and become stronger with proper care. Early disembarkation is also possible. Its advantage is that such shoots take root faster.

• Cabbage seeds are sown for seedlings from late winter (February) to late spring (May). The exact time depends on the variety and purpose of cultivation:
• early varieties are sown in early spring;
• average - in March and early April;

late - from the end of February or beginning of March.

Avoid growing early varieties in open ground at low temperatures - in such conditions blooming occurs or the inner stalk is pulled out.

Before sowing, the seeds are prepared. They are placed in warm water (50 degrees) for a quarter of an hour, then transferred to cold water for one minute. After 12 hours, keep the seed material in a solution of microelements, wash it under running clean water and put it in the refrigerator for a day.

If you plant cabbage too early, it may bloom.

When two true leaves appear, the seedlings are fed using the foliar method. Half a tablet of microelements is dissolved in a liter of water (alternatively, half a teaspoon of complex nutrition with microelements). Spray the sprouts with this liquid.

When hardening begins, a second foliar feeding is carried out. The seedlings are sprayed with a solution of potassium sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), for each sprout - 200 ml of solution.

Disembarkation

To grow strong, tasty produce, choose the right soil: not too loose, but not too dense. It is recommended to avoid light sandy, acidic and waterlogged soils. The best option is floodplains.

This vegetable is light-loving and is planted on southern and southeastern open slopes. The secrets to getting a rich harvest are 17-18 hours of daylight. With this lighting, vegetables grow and develop quickly. Precursors include carrots, potatoes, onions and grains. Scheme for planting white cabbage seedlings (in cm):

• for early varieties - 50 to 50;
• for medium ones – 60 to 60;
• for later ones – 70 to 70.

A temperature of 15-18 degrees is suitable for the growth of these vegetables. Seedlings are planted with 5-6 leaves. In the first days they are advised to be shaded. Three weeks after planting, the beds are hilled. This procedure is repeated after 10 days.

Gardeners do not recommend rushing to plant seedlings in open ground if the weather is cool. White cabbage planted at low temperatures produces a shoot with seeds within a month. To grow a crop from seedlings of early varieties, they are planted at the beginning, and from late varieties - at the end of May.

Cabbage is planted in open ground when the danger of cold weather has passed.

Seedless method

In this case, the growing technology consists of sowing seeds in open ground. In such plants, a more developed root system is formed, and the growing season is reduced by two weeks. However, such seedlings require more diligent care. This method is suitable for growing mid-late and late varieties of white cabbage.

Caring for vegetables planted in this way is the same as caring for seedlings: gardeners loosen the soil in the rows, fight weeds and pests, and water the beds.

Caring for cabbage involves loosening the soil and removing weeds.

First period

Seedlings planted in open ground are treated against cruciferous flea beetle. To do this, it is sprinkled with dry wood ash. If the weather is rainy, then sprinkle once a day. To protect the crop from caterpillars, it is sprayed with chemicals or eggs and caterpillars are collected by hand (in a small area).

Also, for preventive purposes, plantings are watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and the soil is watered and loosened the next day (to a depth of 8 cm).

White cabbage is harmed by lack of moisture. It grows poorly, the formation of heads of cabbage slows down and their size decreases, and the leaves become hard. Having planted the sprouts, they are watered every 2-3 days (8 liters of liquid per 1 square meter). Then water once every 7 days (13 liters per 1 square meter). If there is excess moisture, leaf growth slows down, a waxy coating appears, and the root system rots. The harvest is dying.

Planting care includes fertilizing. It is recommended to use liquid mullein for this purpose. Another type of fertilizer - wood ash, which is sprinkled with cabbage leaves and soil. It is also a pest repellent.

In order for the head of cabbage to form correctly, the cabbage must be watered regularly.

Second and third periods

This stage begins with the development of leaves and continues until the formation of the head. Care is the same as during the first period. The plants continue to be fed with nitrogen fertilizers, the rows are loosened and watered.

Pest control is important: herbal decoctions and infusions (from tomato leaves, wormwood).

Aphids are fought with garlic or dandelion infusion. The third period begins when the ranks close. Maintenance at this time is watering and loosening.

Collection and storage

The harvest is harvested after the first frost, from minus 2 to 7 degrees (if the temperature drops below, the heads of cabbage will freeze and their keeping quality will deteriorate). It is recommended to stop watering 20-25 days before harvesting so that fiber accumulates in the heads of cabbage. This white cabbage is tasty and juicy, and this procedure guarantees the safety of the harvest.

The cabbage heads are carefully cut off, leaving a 2 cm stump and a few green leaves on the surface (they are removed in December). The heads of cabbage are moved to a storage location (cellar, basement). Sometimes they are pre-wrapped in paper, which helps prevent them from drying out. Stored harvested

Growing cabbage in open ground and caring for it does not require much effort, but certain technology must be followed. If you follow the rules, you will reap a rich harvest and create reserves for the winter.

There are two ways to grow white cabbage: seedlings and non-seedlings; in the latter case, the seeds are sown directly into the ground. Most often, cabbage is planted in the ground as seedlings, but in the central and southern regions, mid- and late-ripening varieties sown with seeds grow well.

Planting cabbage

Regardless of how cabbage is grown, you first need to prepare the seeds. First, the seeds are checked for germination. They need to be placed in a damp piece of cloth. High-quality seeds will germinate in 4-5 days. Then you need to put them in hot water (48-50 ° C), and after 20 minutes - in cold water. If you leave the seeds in water for 1-2 days, the seedlings will sprout 2-3 days earlier. It is useful to soak the seeds in a solution of nitrophos or nitroammophos (1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water), then rinse with clean water and put in the refrigerator - this will harden the seeds. In order to grow cabbage seedlings yourself, you must take into account that the seeds of early cabbage are sown no later than March 20, and late cabbage seeds - from February 15 to April 15. The substrate for seedlings is prepared from sand, peat and turf soil, taken in equal proportions. The substrate is carefully leveled and watered with a solution of potassium permanganate (1 g per 10 liters of water). Then grooves are made in the soil 1 cm deep so that the distance between them is 3 cm. The seeds are sown in the grooves and sprinkled with the same soil. Be sure to water the future seedlings through a strainer with water. When growing seedlings in room conditions care must be taken to ensure that there is no lack of light. This condition is especially important in the first few days after planting the seeds. During this period, additional lighting is necessary. To do this, use fluorescent lamps of 40-60 watts, install them at a distance of 10-15 cm above the seedlings. The lamps must be turned on every day for 8-10 hours for a month. As for temperature, this is an equally important factor.

If you grow seedlings in low temperature conditions, this can lead to plant death or the development of diseases. However, it must be taken into account that when growing cold-resistant varieties, it is useful to maintain temperatures of up to 6-8 °C in the first days after germination, and in the subsequent period - not lower than 12 °C. When the seedlings grow, you need to pay attention to their appearance. If the seedlings are light green, they need nitrogen fertilizing. But you should not add too much nitrogen, as this delays the formation of fruits. At the end of the seedling period, seedlings need phosphorus-potassium nutrition. It is enough to fertilize 1-2 times: after picking and in case there are nutritional deficiencies. Bird droppings are most suitable for this. It must be remembered that seedlings must be watered regularly, but not over-watered. It is best to water the seedlings generously 2 times a week, and on sunny days, if the soil dries out too much, every other day. After picking, the seedlings can be watered every day so that the soil is always slightly moist. With the appearance of the first true leaf, the seedlings can be planted in pots. For early ripening varieties, pots measuring 5x5 cm are suitable, for late varieties - 8x8 cm. Before planting, 10-15 days in advance, it is recommended to harden the seedlings by taking them out into the fresh air for a short time. Seedlings can be planted at the age of 45-60 days. Before planting, you need to carefully examine the seedlings and remove plants with signs of disease and weak ones. For planting you need to choose hardened plants with a well-developed root system and an intact apical bud. Seedlings that have 6-7 true leaves take root best. It does not break from the wind and does not lose moisture. Having selected the plants, you need to shorten the long roots before planting.

In order to get a good harvest of cabbage, it is necessary to plant it in fertile, breathable soils with a neutral reaction. Early ripening cabbage varieties grow well on sandy loam, light loamy and floodplain soils, medium and late varieties grow well on chernozems and peat bogs, as well as soddy-podzolic soils. If the area is waterlogged, cabbage should be planted on ridges or ridges. For early varieties of cabbage, it is recommended to choose areas where the snow melted first, that is, well heated by the sun. For medium and late varieties of cabbage, the area is additionally loosened with a hoe or rake to remove, if not all, then at least part of the weeds and eliminate the crust on the surface of the ground. First, early cabbage is planted, then seedlings of late-ripening varieties so that it can form a head of cabbage before the onset of cold weather. Before planting, be sure to water the seedlings in pots. Seedlings should be planted deep enough, to the level of the first leaf, so that the plant develops adventitious roots. But at the same time, you need to ensure that the apical bud is not covered. After planting the plant, compact the soil around it well so that the root is in close contact with the soil and there are no voids not filled with soil. Before planting, the holes need to be watered with water (1-2 liters per hole). After planting, the plants need to be watered again and sprinkled with dry soil. After planting is completed, the compacted row spacing is loosened. The area is marked in advance to ensure best area plant nutrition. Row and square planting methods are suitable for cabbage; the variety of cabbage and soil fertility must also be taken into account. Early cabbage is planted in fertile soil in rows with a distance between them of 60-70 cm, and between rows - 25-30 cm. If the soil is not very well fertilized, the feeding area should be larger - 30-35 cm in a row, and between rows - 60 -70 cm. Mid-season varieties are planted in rows, keeping a distance between them of 70 cm, and between plants - at least 50 cm. Late varieties should be planted at a distance of at least 60 cm.

If the time for planting seedlings has already passed, you can sow cabbage seeds. The grooves are made in such a way that the distance between them is at least 10 cm, and the depth is 1-2 cm. You can also make holes 2-3 cm deep at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other with row spacing of 60-70 cm. In each 2-3 seeds are placed in each hole. Sowing time is late April - early May. To protect crops from the night cold, they need to be covered with film for 2-3 weeks and then removed. 3-4 weeks after sowing, when the seedlings appear, they need to be thinned out, leaving a distance of 30-40 cm between them. If the seeds were planted in a hole, then after 2-3 leaves appear on the sprouts, the seedlings need to be thinned out, leaving only one strong plant. Seedlings of various types of cabbage, as well as Chinese cabbage, can be grown in greenhouses. Seeds need to be sown in rows with a gap of 10 cm between rows. Make sure that the distance between cabbage sprouts should be at least 7 cm, since with frequent planting the seedlings stretch out, the internodes lengthen, and the stem becomes thin. When 2-3 true leaves form and warm days arrive, the film needs to be opened slightly, and if the weather permits, then completely removed.

Cabbage care

Caring for cabbage means watering, regularly loosening the soil, fertilizing and protecting it from pests and diseases. It has already been said above that cabbage is a very moisture-loving plant, so the main thing when growing cabbage is to water it well. Especially a lot of water is needed during the formation and growth of heads of cabbage. If early varieties of cabbage are grown on light soils in the middle zone, they should be watered at least 5-6 times per season. Medium and late-ripening cabbage need to water even more often. In dry times, it is also necessary to water cabbage at least 8-12 times a season. When watering with a hose or watering can, make sure that the pressure is not strong - this will avoid soil compaction and water runoff. Already two weeks after planting in open ground, you need to inspect the area and replace wilted plants new. They need to be planted a few centimeters from their original location. And when the plants take root, after 4-5 days, treat the soil in a row. At first, when the roots are still small, you can loosen close to the plants, leaving 4–5 cm around the plant unloosened.

As the root system grows, this area should increase. During loosening, all weeds must be removed. They should not be left on the site; it is better to take them to the compost heap. It is recommended to combine loosening with hilling. Timely loosening of the soil reduces the need for water by 20-25%. For good growth, cabbage needs organic fertilizers, which are best applied to the soil in the fall during digging. You can use horse, cow, pig manure, poultry manure and compost. The amount of manure applied should be as follows: in poorly cultivated soils - 5-6 kg per 1 m2, in well-cultivated soils - 3-4 kg, in floodplain soils - 4-5 kg, in chernozem soils - 3-5 kg, and in lowland peatlands - 2-2.5 kg per 1 m2. This amount is calculated for mid- and late-ripening varieties. To better provide cabbage with useful substances, it is advisable to add ammonium nitrate to the manure (0.1 kg per 10-15 kg of manure). Mineral fertilizers can also be applied during the formation of heads of cabbage. There are the following standards for the use of ammonium nitrate: 30-35 g per 1 m2 of sandy and loamy soils, 20-27 g per 1 m2 of floodplain soils, 10-15 g per 1 m2 of drained peatlands. The rates of simple superphosphate are 40-60, 30-40, 35–40 g per 1 m2, respectively, and potassium chloride - 10-15, 15-20 and 15-30 g, respectively. Already 15-18 days after planting the seedlings, you need to carry out the first fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. For mid- and late-ripening varieties, it is necessary to add half the norm of ammonium nitrate, 1/4 part of superphosphate and 1/5 part of potassium chloride. After another 20 days, you need to add the remaining dose of ammonium nitrate and superphosphate, as well as 40% potassium chloride. And only when the head of cabbage begins to form can you fertilize with the remaining dose of potassium chloride. Mineral fertilizers can be alternated with organic ones. Fertilizer can be applied dry or diluted in water (70-80 g of fertilizer mixture per 10 liters of water). When fertilizing for the first time, apply it directly to the plant, the second and third time - between the rows of plants with a large planting depth. If the fertilizer is dry, apply it after watering or after rain. Ammonium nitrate is most suitable for dry fertilizing as a nitrogen fertilizer. Nitrogen fertilizers help speed up the process of head formation. They are especially important for early cabbage varieties.

Controlling cabbage pests and diseases

Cabbage fly. This insect causes especially great damage to the plant in rainy years. It is found almost everywhere, but most of all it is found in the non-chernozem and central zones. There are spring and summer cabbage flies, among which the spring one is more dangerous. It is similar to a housefly, but lighter and smaller: the length of the spring fly is 6 mm, the length of the summer fly is 7-8 mm. Its larvae infect the root and lower part of the cabbage stem, the plant withers and dies. The spring fly is especially harmful to cauliflower. The pupae of the spring fly overwinter in the ground at a depth of 10-15 cm, and the pupae of the summer fly are even deeper - 15-30 cm. The spring fly breeds 1-4 generations, the summer fly - one. Control measures: from chemical preparations, you can use a solution of chlorophos (20 g per 10 liters of water), which serves to prevent egg laying. Spray the seedlings 2-3 times, taking a break of 7-10 days. It’s better to water the soil at the base of the plant in advance with a chlorophos solution (30 g per 10 liters of water). Repelling agents that can be used as naphthalene, tobacco dust mixed in half with slaked lime, as well as ash. Sprinkle the soil around the plant at the rate of 20 g of mixture per 1 m2. The egg-laying of the cabbage fly can be destroyed by removing the soil from the root collar of the plant by 10-15 cm and replacing it with fresh soil taken from the rows. This must be done several times during the egg laying period. If you remove the stalks from the plot after cutting the forks, cultivate the soil in the fall, hill up the cabbage, water and apply fertilizing before hilling, you will be able to prevent damage to the cabbage by these pests.

Cruciferous flea beetle. This dangerous pest sometimes completely destroys cabbage seedlings, as well as other vegetable crops, gnawing out the pulp of the leaves. Cruciferous flea beetles - bugs 2-3 mm long, black or with yellow stripes on the underwings. They usually overwinter under plant debris or in the surface layer of soil. Control measures: plants need to be pollinated with tobacco dust. The effect will improve if you add lime and ash to it. Tobacco dust and ash can be used as prophylactic agents, especially since they are fertilizer.

Cabbage whites. This is one of the most dangerous pests, causing harm not only to cabbage, but also to radishes, turnips, and rutabaga. The cabbage white is a butterfly with white wings with black stripes in the front; the female has 2 round black spots on the front wings. Adult caterpillars are yellow-green in color and covered with bristles and hairs. Pupae overwinter on the trunks of trees, shrubs, etc. They give 3-4 generations. Control measures: if the area is small, the caterpillars can be collected by hand and destroyed. In addition, it is recommended to weed the cabbage and neighboring areas more often. Among the chemical agents, solutions of bacterial preparations such as entobacterin, dendrobacillin, lipitocide are effective. The solution is prepared at the rate of 20-30 g of substance per 10 liters of water.

Cabbage moth. Caterpillars cause especially great harm. They are yellowish in color, spindle-shaped, and their length is 9-12 mm. The caterpillars gnaw out small sections of the leaf without affecting the upper part. Very often the top bud of cabbage is damaged. Distributed everywhere. In warm weather conditions they produce up to 10 generations. Control measures are the same as for cabbage whites.

Cabbage scoop. Damages cruciferous and other vegetable crops. It has gray-brown forewings, with a yellowish wavy line and two dark spots at the anterior edge, and the hind wings are dark gray. The caterpillars are green, greenish-brown or brownish-brown in color, with a yellow stripe along the body. They cause damage by gnawing holes in the leaves and then entering the head of cabbage and contaminating it with excrement. The caterpillars feed at night and hide at the base of the head of cabbage during the day. The head of cabbage gradually rots and acquires an unpleasant odor. The pupae overwinter in the soil at a depth of 9-12 cm. The cabbage cutworm produces 2 generations. Control measures: first of all, in the fall, you should definitely dig up the ground, carefully weed and hill up the plants. It is recommended to treat young plants with a solution of entobacterin (10-30 g per 10 l of water).

Cabbage aphid. This small insects 2 mm long, with and without wings, covered with a light waxy coating. Larvae and adult aphids infect plant leaves, feeding on their sap. The leaves become colorless or turn pinkish, curl, and the growth of heads of cabbage slows down. In the first half of summer, aphids live on weeds, and then the females fly to cabbage. They produce large offspring, up to 16 generations per summer. Their numbers can only be reduced by cold weather. Control measures: firstly, spraying with tobacco infusion. The infusion is prepared as follows: 50 g of tobacco is poured into 0.5 liters of water, infused for 24 hours, then diluted 2-3 times and a little soap is added (40 g per 10 liters). Secondly, spraying potato tops with infusion. To do this, you need to pour 1.2 kg of tops into 10 liters of warm water, leave for 3 hours, then strain. A decoction of tomato tops is also an effective remedy. 4 kg of crushed mass should be poured into 10 liters of water, put on fire and boil for 30 minutes, then cool and strain. The decoction should be diluted with water before use (for 3 liters of decoction, 10 liters of water). Preventive measures include the destruction of cruciferous weeds and removal of stalks from the site. It is good to sow carrots and dill next to cabbage: these plants attract insects that destroy cabbage aphids.

Cruciferous bugs. These are large insects with red spots on their wings. They feed on juices from leaves. They hibernate under fallen leaves, under trees, and along the sides of ditches. In spring they live on weeds of the cabbage family, and then move to cultivated plants. Control measures consist of spraying with a solution of karbofos at the rate of 5-10 g per 10 liters of water. It is also important to control weeds.

Slugs are naked. Distributed almost everywhere. They multiply quickly in rainy years and damage many plants. They feed at night, and during the day they hide under lumps of soil, plants, and between cabbage leaves. Control measures: First of all, you need to mow the grass in nearby ditches and damp places. A solution of iron sulfate (1 kg per 10 liters of water) is also used to kill slugs. An effective remedy is also a mixture of ash and bleach (2 g of ash and 4 g of lime per 1 m2). You can use a mixture of tobacco dust and lime, taken in equal quantities. All measures to destroy slugs should be carried out late in the evening, when the slugs move on to the plants.

Plant diseases are another problem that gardeners have to deal with. But many diseases can be prevented or the likelihood of their occurrence reduced.

Kila. This fungal disease harms cabbage by affecting its root system. It can be recognized by the growths and swellings that appear. Control measures: dig up and destroy damaged plants. You cannot plant cabbage in this place for 5-6 years, as spores remain in the soil.

Blackleg. This fungal disease develops when poor care for seedlings, if the crops are too thick, as well as after sudden changes in temperature and soil humidity. The disease begins with the root collar darkening, becoming thinner and gradually rotting. The seedlings lie down and dry out. Control measures: first of all, careful care of the seedlings is necessary, compliance with all conditions for its cultivation. Before sowing and picking, it is necessary to rake TMTD into the soil (5-8 g per 1 m2).

White rot. A fungal disease that affects many vegetable crops. Root vegetables become soft and slippery, but do not change color. A loose white fluff forms on the surface of the infected area. Control measures: do not plant cabbage in the same place, apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Gray rot. This disease most often develops during storage. In this case, the bases of the petioles of the lower leaves are covered with gray fluff. Control measures: treat the storage with a 2% formaldehyde solution or an infusion of bleach (dilute 400 g of lime in 10 liters of water, let it brew for 3-4 hours). Observe the storage conditions for cabbage.

Fusarium. A fungal disease that primarily harms cabbage leaves by clogging blood vessels. As a result, cabbage seedlings wither and adult plants grow poorly. At the same time, the leaves turn yellow and sometimes fall off completely. Fusarium also manifests itself in the fact that a brown ring of blood vessels appears on a cross section of the leaf petiole. The disease often develops in hot and dry weather. A lack of potassium in the soil can also cause fusarium. Control measures: the same as for mucous bacteriosis.

Harvesting and storage

Early and mid-season varieties of white cabbage, as well as cauliflower, should be harvested as the heads of cabbage mature. To prevent heads of early ripening cabbage from cracking, they need to be bent 2-3 times in one direction. In this way, the flow of nutrients into the head of cabbage is limited, and the period of harvesting the heads of cabbage will increase by several days. The heads of cabbage need to be cut off carefully, leaving a stalk 3-4 cm long and the lower leaves. You can grow a second crop on such a stalk. To do this, it is necessary first of all to loosen the soil between the rows and rows and add mineral fertilizers(per 1 m2 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 10 g of potassium chloride and 10 g of superphosphate). Then the plant needs to be earthed up to form an additional root system. These events will lead to the awakening of the buds in the axils of the remaining leaves and the formation of new small heads of cabbage. In 2-2.5 months, heads of cabbage weighing 200 g or more grow. Medium and late varieties of cabbage grown for winter storage can be cut down or pulled out by the roots. Heads of cabbage intended not for pickling, but for fresh storage, should be harvested at the end of October, preferably before frost.

Cut heads of cabbage are placed in piles so that the outer leaves wilt a little and do not break during transportation. Brussels sprouts frosts are not terrible; on the contrary, they improve its taste. It can be harvested in late autumn. The shelf life of cabbage largely depends on the variety, so you should not store cabbage of different varieties together. Cabbage is usually stored in the basement or cellar on racks. The optimal storage temperature is 0 °C, and the relative humidity is 95%. A small number of heads of cabbage can be hung by the stalks from the ceiling or shelves separately from each other. If the cabbage harvest turns out to be very large, it is better to lay it on racks in 2-3 layers in the form of a pyramid. It should be taken into account that the distance between the heads of cabbage and the next shelf should be about 25-30 cm. Another way to store cabbage is in lattice boxes. The cabbage is laid with the stalks up, and the last top layer is laid with the stalks inward. The boxes are placed on a wooden floor, and the distance between the floor and the floor should be about 20 cm. To prevent the formation of gray rot, cabbage can be sprinkled with chalk or slaked lime (2-3 kg per 100 kg of cabbage) before storing. Cauliflower is stored at the same temperature and relative humidity as white cabbage for 2-3 months. It is best to store it in boxes, the bottom of which is lined with plastic film. The leaves can be trimmed lightly above the head, but can be stored with all the leaves. The top of the box also needs to be covered with plastic wrap. Cauliflower can be stored in thin plastic bags.

You can also use thick cling film, but to do this you need to cut holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm on both sides of the bag. You need to place 1-2 heads in one bag, after clearing them of leaves, tie them and put them in a box. Cabbage can be stored in bags for at least 35-40 days at a temperature of 0 °C. Another way to store cauliflower is as follows: whole plants along with the roots should be placed in boxes, the roots should be sprinkled with sand and watered generously, and the leaves should be raised. Plants with a head diameter of 25 cm are selected and dug up before frost occurs. Storage temperature should be no higher than 2-4 °C.

Video: Growing early cabbage