How to feed indoor flowers in the fall. How to care for indoor plants in the fall. Houseplants that bloom in autumn and winter as a remedy for depression


August is the season of active work not only in the garden, but also home flower garden. Flowers grow, develop, and bloom during spring and summer, but by autumn their life processes slow down.

To provide for your pets optimal conditions for winter dormancy, already in August you need to start preparing, carry out work to adapt the flowers to the short daylight hours.

Lighting requirements

A lack of sunlight always has a detrimental effect on the growth and life of any flower. It is worth understanding that almost all indoor flowers come from warm countries, so proper lighting for them is necessary and vital.

In August, it is already necessary to remove devices that act as shade from windows. In my case, these are the blinds that I raise. Those pots that stood in summer time in the back of the room, you need to start moving it closer to the window.

Here you need to take into account one more factor - heat from heating devices and batteries. In the fall, the heating will be turned on in the apartment. Therefore, all indoor flowers should be placed in such a way that they do not receive excessive heat.

I grow violets, so in the autumn-winter period I provide them with additional lighting using a lamp. This allows me to achieve not only winter comfort for flowers, but also active flowering.

See also video:

Indoor temperature requirements

Almost all flowers for winter holidays require optimal indoor air temperature. Flower growers claim that for all flowers in winter time It is better to maintain the temperature around 18-22 degrees.


For flowers such as orchids and azaleas, the air temperature should be reduced to 16-8 degrees. If this regime is not followed, the flower stalks will not develop and there will be no flowering at all.
When choosing indoor plants, it is worth considering that some specimens require a temperature of 6 to 10 degrees in winter. It is better to keep such flowers on insulated balconies.

Watering in autumn-winter

In winter, it is extremely important to provide the plant with proper watering. In a dormant state, the plant can get sick or be damaged by pests, and only the right air humidity will allow the flower's immune system to cope with any problems.

Watering during this period is best done only after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried. In winter, watering should be kept to a minimum, and I do not water flowers such as cacti and succulents at all from December to March.

If you organize proper watering, then the flower will definitely develop the correct buds for flowering and development in the spring.

What fertilizing do flowers need?

The concentration of fertilizers and microelements should be reduced in the autumn-winter period. I buy special fertilizers for the autumn period. I would like to draw the attention of newcomers to the fact that autumn fertilizers should not contain nitrogen, but they should contain more potassium and phosphorus.
For plants that don't bloom, I'm generally in autumn period I don’t use fertilizers, but starting in August, I gradually reduce their amount to a minimum.

How to create optimal humidity for flowers?

Heating devices always dry out the air. Such an effect becomes detrimental to flowers. In this case, I advise you to collect in one place those plants that require high humidity and use artificial humidifiers.

The most basic way is to use water in small containers. It will evaporate as needed and create optimal conditions for flowers.

What to do with the plants that were on the balcony?

You need to be very careful when bringing flowers into the house after summer. Living on the balcony, they can get diseases and mites, which will very quickly spread to all other flowers. In order to prevent massive damage to flowers, I do the following procedures:

1. Carefully wash the pot in which the flower is located. I remove dried leaves from the plant, wash the branches and leaves. The best shower product is soapy water. It allows you to remove pests and clear dust. It is worth remembering that pests become active in the autumn, so do not a large number of insects will quickly destroy all the plants in the house.

2. Before bringing it into the house, you need to prune the flowers that need it.

3. All indoor plants should be placed in special trays with wet expanded clay to protect the flower from dampness and rotting of the root system.

What diseases can destroy a flower in the autumn-winter period?

Among the most dangerous diseases that cause flower extinction. Root system is rotting. Unfortunately, it is not possible to see this process right away, and when the system is affected, the flower withers and disappears in a short time.

If you responded in time to the appearance of rot on the root system, then the flower can be saved by using fungicides that prevent the development of fungus and various diseases in plants.

During the dormant period, it is important to monitor each flower and remove wilted leaves, as they will be an ideal environment for the development of painful flora or pests.
I hope that my little tips will be useful to everyone who takes care of their green flower garden at home.

Often annual climate changes are so sudden that it is sometimes difficult to determine the moment at which one season ends and another begins.

The transition from summer to autumn is usually a very difficult phase for a houseplant. During this period, the vital functions of plants are weakened. This applies primarily to perennial flowers. They are preparing for winter rest. And yet the plant is still full of vitality. Many of the leaves have turned yellow and the flowers have faded, but a few warm days are enough and you can see new leaves and new flowers blooming.

This period is quite difficult for any indoor plant, including annuals, which must “spread” seeds, and therefore require careful care and maximum protection. For example, replanting them is completely contraindicated, even if it seems to you that your flower is too cramped in a small pot.

WATERING

During this period of the year, the amount of water required by indoor plants gradually decreases to a minimum. However, when caring for flowers, great care must be taken and provide them only with the amount of water that is necessary, depending on weather conditions. However, most houseplants automatically reduce their water intake in preparation for winter dormancy, so excessive watering becomes harmful both for the root system and for the above-ground part.

FERTILIZER

Starting from the end of September necessary stop feeding most plants, because the rhythm of their growth slows down and the requirements for nutrients oh, that the roots cease to perform their functions. If you still continue to feed them with fertilizers, the depleted soil will gradually begin to accumulate them. As a result, due to their increased concentration, it will become toxic and, instead of being beneficial, can cause serious damage to the roots.

For those types of indoor plants that can continue to be fed, even in reduced doses, slow-release solid fertilizers should be used, especially suitable for such cases, because the nutritional regime in this situation is determined either by temperature or the level of soil moisture.

Most plants at this time of year are preparing to go dormant with very little signs of growth and therefore do not require additional contribution fertilizers But there are a number of few exceptions - these are species that bloom in late autumn and even in winter. They require fertilizing with fertilizers that contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

TEMPERATURE

In the fall, when caring for indoor flowers, it is important to maintain as stable and constant a temperature as possible, gradually lowering it so that the plants acclimatize to colder conditions. Sudden changes in temperature can cause serious harm, especially if the weather changes suddenly, going from warm summer days to freezing cold nights.

A sudden drop in temperature, especially if you have left the soil moist enough, is the main danger to which the plant is exposed at this time of year. Do not forget move indoor plants from the balcony into the room . If a flower on the windowsill suddenly begins to fade, move it to a warmer place; most likely the plant is cold at night from the glass.

FLOWER CARE

Carry on remove any wilted or weakened flowers from those plants that still form them during this period of the year. Houseplants, blooming in late autumn or winter, must be fed and watered accordingly.

In addition, it is extremely important to take special care of those flowers that are sensitive to shortening daylight hours, such as the most beautiful poinsettia. For their normal development and the formation of the correct color of the bracts (leaflets from the axils of which the flower grows), it is necessary not only to feed and water them appropriately, but also to provide them with a sufficient amount of sunlight. In September-November, any artificial lighting during the hours when there is sunlight prevents the plants from forming bright bracts.

LEAF CARE

For indoor plants with falling leaves, it is enough to limit pruning wilted leaves as they appear, to avoid their rotting and subsequent damage to plants by certain diseases. For perennial non-flowering plants, care varies depending on the species. Anyway, remove all wilted and damaged leaves. Stop spraying with water. As a rule, almost all indoor plants require a gradual reduction in watering intensity. Only some types of indoor plants, when cared for in the autumn, require watering with greater frequency to maintain leaves.

PESTS

Since the maximum activity of pests occurs in the summer, many of them do not reproduce, and therefore it may seem that the problem itself is losing its relevance. But that's not true. Most insects continue to remain active; moreover, for some of them, autumn is favorable time of the year.

Aphid can cause problems in the first half of autumn, especially if the plant is still blooming. Still, by the end of autumn it will probably disappear until spring, when its activity will resume.

Otherwise it will be the case with spider mite, which must be kept under strict control throughout this period of the year, because it continues to feed on your plants all year round, although with less activity - in accordance with the shortening of the day and the drop in temperature.

Chervetsy also continue to be active, although to a lesser extent than at the height of summer.

The same goes for thrips, which cause serious trouble all winter and can become elusive to control. Warm, dry conditions are optimal for them, and they thrive in the comfortable environment provided by central heating. Little by little, thrips go through different stages of development from eggs to larvae and become less and less catchable. That is why they can be completely destroyed only in the adult stage. It's harder to keep track of them during the fall and winter months because their life cycle spans that long period. Therefore, plants should be treated with a special long-acting insecticide, which will destroy adult insects as soon as they appear. Keeping a close eye on thrips in early fall will reduce the likelihood that they will lay eggs, making these pests easier to control.

In autumn, problems when caring for indoor plants can be caused by whiteflies. These small insects lay eggs on the surface of the soil and hatch into larvae that feed on organic tissue such as dead leaves and roots. These pests cause damage not only in their adult state, when they fly off every time you touch the plant. Their larvae also contribute to the transfer of diseases from infected plants to healthy ones. Therefore, there is a good chance that this will happen in the fall with relatively wet, rot-promoting conditions.

DISEASES

When caring for indoor plants in the fall, be prepared for possible rotting of roots and aerial parts of flowers. Both can easily happen during this period, especially when the plant is at risk of overwatering. If you notice that the roots or aboveground part still rotted, it is necessary to immediately apply the appropriate fungicide to prevent the fungus from causing any serious diseases.

It is important to promptly remove any wilted leaf or flower, which is an ideal environment for the development of fungal diseases such as blight, which forms large, fluffy gray-brown spots on stems and leaves ( gray rot). This nasty fungus, having exhausted the available food in the form of dead tissue, quickly multiplies and attacks already healthy plant tissue, especially such sensitive species as Saintpaulia (Uzumbara violet) and cyclamen.

In addition to careful care of indoor plants, it is also useful to apply an appropriate fungicide to prevent the development of the disease at the first symptom, and not wait to treat until the moment the flower is already completely infected and it will be difficult to save it.

It may also be a problem leaf rust- a fungal disease that appears on leaves if they are left wet or in an overly humid atmosphere. In addition, in the fall the foliage turns yellow, and the symptoms of this disease are often difficult to notice.

When caring for a sick houseplant, you must try to improve growing conditions and use all methods to prevent the subsequent manifestation of infection.


August is the season of active work not only in the garden and vegetable garden, but also in the home flower garden. Flowers grow, develop, and bloom during spring and summer, but by autumn their life processes slow down.

To provide your pets with optimal conditions for winter dormancy, you need to begin preparations already in August and carry out work to adapt the flowers to the short daylight hours.

Lighting requirements

A lack of sunlight always has a detrimental effect on the growth and life of any flower. It is worth understanding that almost all indoor flowers come from warm countries, so proper lighting for them is necessary and vital.

In August, it is already necessary to remove devices that act as shade from windows. In my case, these are the blinds that I raise. Those pots that stood in the back of the room in the summer need to start moving closer to the window.

Here you need to take into account one more factor - heat from heating devices and batteries. In the fall, the heating will be turned on in the apartment. Therefore, all indoor flowers should be placed in such a way that they do not receive excessive heat.

I grow violets, so in the autumn-winter period I provide them with additional lighting using a lamp. This allows me to achieve not only winter comfort for flowers, but also active flowering.

See also video:

Indoor temperature requirements

Almost all flowers for winter holidays require optimal indoor air temperature. Flower growers say that for all flowers in winter it is better to maintain the temperature around 18-22 degrees.


For flowers such as orchids and azaleas, the air temperature should be reduced to 16-8 degrees. If this regime is not followed, the flower stalks will not develop and there will be no flowering at all.
When choosing indoor plants, it is worth considering that some specimens require a temperature of 6 to 10 degrees in winter. It is better to keep such flowers on insulated balconies.

Watering in autumn-winter

In winter, it is extremely important to provide the plant with proper watering. In a dormant state, the plant can get sick or be damaged by pests, and only the right air humidity will allow the flower's immune system to cope with any problems.

Watering during this period is best done only after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried. In winter, watering should be kept to a minimum, and I do not water flowers such as cacti and succulents at all from December to March.

If you organize proper watering, then the flower will definitely develop the correct buds for flowering and development in the spring.

What fertilizing do flowers need?

The concentration of fertilizers and microelements should be reduced in the autumn-winter period. I buy special fertilizers for the autumn period. I would like to draw the attention of beginners to the fact that autumn fertilizers should not contain nitrogen, but they should contain more potassium and phosphorus.
For plants that do not bloom, I do not use fertilizers at all in the autumn, and starting in August, I gradually reduce their amount to a minimum.

How to create optimal humidity for flowers?

Heating devices always dry out the air. Such an effect becomes detrimental to flowers. In this case, I advise you to collect in one place those plants that require high humidity and use artificial humidifiers.

The most basic way is to use water in small containers. It will evaporate as needed and create optimal conditions for flowers.

What to do with the plants that were on the balcony?

You need to be very careful when bringing flowers into the house after summer. Living on the balcony, they can get diseases and mites, which will very quickly spread to all other flowers. In order to prevent massive damage to flowers, I do the following procedures:

1. Carefully wash the pot in which the flower is located. I remove dried leaves from the plant, wash the branches and leaves. The best shower product is soapy water. It allows you to remove pests and clear dust. It is worth remembering that pests become active in the autumn, so a small number of insects will quickly destroy all the plants in the house.

2. Before bringing it into the house, you need to prune the flowers that need it.

3. All indoor plants should be placed in special trays with wet expanded clay to protect the flower from dampness and rotting of the root system.

What diseases can destroy a flower in the autumn-winter period?

Among the most dangerous diseases that cause flower extinction. Root system is rotting. Unfortunately, it is not possible to see this process right away, and when the system is affected, the flower withers and disappears in a short time.

If you responded in time to the appearance of rot on the root system, then the flower can be saved by using fungicides that prevent the development of fungus and various diseases in plants.

During the dormant period, it is important to monitor each flower and remove wilted leaves, as they will be an ideal environment for the development of painful flora or pests.
I hope that my little tips will be useful to everyone who takes care of their green flower garden at home.

Autumn is a transitional period in the life of most indoor plants.

The conditions of detention are changing: temperature indicators, daylight hours are becoming shorter, and the beginning of the heating season is just around the corner. Specimens that spent the summer outdoors move to window sills, and some species prepare for winter dormancy.

Accordingly, the plant nutrition regime is adjusted.

By correctly selecting fertilizers and their dosage, we help some plants prepare as best as possible for a long and difficult winter, others for a dormant period, and others for colorful flowering. In this regard, plants can be divided into three groups.

WITHOUT A SPECIFIC REST PERIOD

This group includes mainly tropical species.

These are plants of the families Acanthaceae (pachystachys, beloperone, fittonia, hypoestes), Araliaceae (ivy, fatsia, schefflera), Araceae (anthurium, monstera, aglaonema, syngonium, dieffenbachia, etc.), as well as dracaena, episcia, saintpaulia, phalaenopsis, arrowroot , croton, palm, etc. Plants of this group are fed all year round, only from the beginning of autumn until the end of winter, either gradually reduce the amount of feeding to once a month, or reduce the dosage to half the dose.

It is best to use a specialized or complete complex fertilizer with microelements. Araceae, ivy and palm trees can sometimes be pampered with organic matter, but in less concentration.

PLANTS WITH A SPECIFIC REST PERIOD

The second group includes plants that require complete rest in autumn and winter (Achimenes, tuberous begonia, zephyranthes, hippeastrum, gloriosa, gloxinia) - the above-ground part dies off, or relative dormancy (pelargonium, oleander, myrtle, clerodendrum, bougainvillea, etc.) - the above-ground part remains, but the plants require a cool winter.

These species are fed only in autumn phosphorus-potassium fertilizers(for example, potassium monophosphate) to increase their resistance to cold, diseases and other adverse factors during wintering. The last feeding is carried out 1-2 months before the onset of the dormant period.

FEEDING FOR WINTER-FLOWERING HOUSE PLANTS

The third group consists of plants whose flowering period occurs in the autumn-winter period: gerbera, cyclamen, azalea, Decembrist, gardenia, camellia, some orchids and begonias.

For more abundant and long-lasting flowering, these plants are fertilized twice a month from autumn until the end of flowering, again with potassium monophosphate, supplemented by treatment with microelements (“Tsitovit”) and humic substances (“Potassium Humate”).

You can also use specialized fertilizers for each type of plant or complete complex fertilizers with microelements and low nitrogen content.

For a more stable wintering, cacti and most succulents can be fed once in early autumn with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer; nitrogen fertilizers will only harm them at this time.

But Crassulas have a positive attitude towards nitrogen, so these plants can be fed with a complete complex fertilizer until mid-autumn.

Below are other entries on the topic “Do-it-yourself cottage and garden”

  • : The beginning of autumn - what to feed...
  • : Fertilizers and fertilizers for flowers...
  • Autumn is a wonderful time, glorified by poets of all times and peoples. Golden foliage, fresh air, hot tea and warm blankets make this time of year especially attractive. However, sudden climate changes adversely affect indoor flowers. Even for those cultures that “live” at home, this period is considered very dangerous. The vital functions of plants are fading, flowers are preparing for winter holidays. Therefore, in the fall, potted crops need special attention.

    HOW TO WATER?

    During the fall months, your guide will be the weather. So, on sunny days, make sure that the soil does not dry out, but if it is raining outside, skip watering and wait until the soil dries. Many houseplants require less water in the fall, for example, and should only be watered 1-2 times a month at this time.

    DO YOU NEED TO CONTINUE FERTILIZING?

    The end of September is the time when the bulk of indoor plants stop needing feeding. The reason for this is the slowdown in crop growth. If feeding the flower is not stopped, nutrients will accumulate in the soil, which can lead to damage to the root system and death of the plant.

    The exception is plants whose flowering period occurs in autumn or winter. In this case, the flowers are periodically fertilized with long-acting solid compounds. During the flowering period, fertilizers of phosphorus-potassium origin are used.

    WHAT TO DO WITH SPRAYING?

    In the fall, you should take spraying of potted crops seriously. Unstable temperatures prevailing at this time of year can harm the plant. Spray the flowers warm water in the morning or afternoon. You should not do this at night - the plant will freeze.

    When heating is turned on in homes, the humidity in the room decreases noticeably. Crops such as dracaenas, ivy, etc., need high humidity - they should be sprayed more often - several times a day. You can place the plants on pallets with expanded clay or gravel, thereby improving drainage. Great solution During the heating season there will be a humidifier.

    WHAT SHOULD BE THE LIGHT AND TEMPERATURE CONDITIONS IN THE ROOM?

    Light lovers (cacti) are best placed on the windowsill. Preference should be given to southern and eastern windows. Here the green wards will have enough sunlight. Less light-loving flowers (ferns, philodendrons) can be placed near a well-lit window on a table or stand. If the plant does not have enough light, its stems will stretch, the leaves will begin to fall, and the variegated color of the flower will change.

    As for the temperature regime, it is important to maintain a relatively constant temperature. Gradually reduce the rate so that the flower gets used to cooler conditions. Sudden temperature changes are undesirable, for example, a warm, rainy day followed by a frosty night.

    Almost all varieties of flowers feel comfortable in a moderately warm room at a temperature of 15-17 degrees in the autumn.

    IS THE TOPIC OF PESTS RELEVANT IN AUTUMN?

    The majority of pests are most active in the warm season; in the fall, harmful organisms do not reproduce. The above fact does not at all indicate that the problem is irrelevant. Some pests still remain quite active in the autumn months, so they can cause a lot of trouble.

    For example, you may encounter this at the very beginning of autumn, especially if the plant continues to flower. At the end of autumn she will leave the plant alone.

    It’s a completely different matter - which feeds on indoor crops throughout the year, even in winter. With the arrival of autumn, the pest's appetite decreases, but you should not let your guard down. The same picture emerges in the case of mealybugs, which continue to be active.

    Big troubles can arise, they remain elusive even in the depths of winter. Ideal for harmful organisms warm conditions, which are safely provided by central heating. Thrips are growing into adults and now is the best time to control them. The affected plant is treated with a special composition. The beginning of autumn is the time for pest control - the fewer eggs they lay during this period, the easier it will be to eliminate them later.

    In the fall, problems can also arise. It is dangerous not only as an adult, but also as a larva - it transmits diseases from one crop to another. Therefore, the probability of such a phenomenon is very high in conditions of sufficient humidity, i.e. in autumn.

    WHAT ABOUT DISEASES?

    The most common unpleasant phenomenon in the autumn is rotting of the root system and above-ground parts of plants. The topic becomes especially relevant in conditions of excessive watering. If a problem is detected, use an appropriate fungicide immediately to prevent serious disease from developing.

    It is also necessary to promptly remove wilted leaves and flowers, since they are the most favorable environment for the spread of fungal diseases, such as gray rot. This type of fungus, after absorbing dead flower tissues, moves on to healthy ones, gradually “killing” the plant.

    During the fall months, it is possible that foliar fungus is a type of fungus that spreads on wet leaves in humid environments. Signs of the disease can be easily missed, since in the fall the leaves of many crops already turn yellow.

    To save a houseplant, it is necessary to provide favorable conditions for its cultivation and take measures to prevent the further spread of infection.

    So that your home plant continues to delight you with its attractive looking in the autumn, spare no effort and time to care for it. We recommend paying special attention to the watering regime and temperature conditions.

    In the autumn-winter season, in our apartments it is dark for plants, like in a cave, plus the air is very dry for them, and the streams of water that they are doused with from time to time do not save the situation, but only aggravate it. Let's try to avoid mistakes.

    Lack of light

    Light for plants is the same food. Lighting, which is quite comfortable for humans, is often insufficient for them. In nature, they grow either in the forest or in the open. And if tropical forest herbs are usually shade-tolerant, then for plants in open areas (succulents, cacti, most beautifully flowering herbaceous plants and shrubs) the light on the windowsill is ten times less than needed. In autumn and winter the problem worsens.

    External manifestations

    The stems are elongated, with long internodes. The total number of leaves decreases, they lose their characteristic color (for example, variegated leaves become green). In flowering species, the flowers are small or completely absent.

    How to help plants?

    We move plants from western and northern windows to eastern and southern ones so that they receive as much natural light as possible (leaves should not touch the glass). We regularly wipe the windows from the inside: clean glass increases the light intensity by 10%. For tropical herbaceous plants (begonias , bromeliads, peperomia, cineraria ) we use artificial lighting. If it is not possible to provide additional light to plants, subtropical ( oleander, laurel, myrtle, hoya , pomegranate , citrus ) we send it to cool storage.

    Low air humidity

    As soon as it comes heating season, air humidity in rooms with central heating decreases sharply, dropping to 30% and below. For most tropical plants ideal humidity- 70-90% (acceptable - 65-70%).

    External manifestations

    Young leaves grow small, damaged at the edges. The ends are dry. In many species, leaf fall begins. Buds and flowers dry up and fall off.

    How to help plants?

    Neither the frequency of watering nor its intensity can increase air humidity. Spraying helps until the plant dries, that is, within 5-10 minutes. Let's find a new place for the plant - on another window or in another room, in the kitchen, where the humidity is higher. Or we’ll just move it to the far edge of the window sill - away from the radiator. If this is inconvenient, we get a humidifier. Or we increase the air humidity by placing flower pots on a tray filled with pebbles, gravel, expanded clay, and adding water to it from time to time. You can place the pot in a larger planter, fill the gap with peat and keep it moist. Another option is decorative bowls, for example, with glass balls, etc., filled with water, which are placed between the plants. The bottoms of containers with flowers should not be immersed in water.

    Incorrect or uneven watering

    In a hot room, the soil in the pot dries out faster. If the plant is on a cold windowsill, the soil in the pot remains damp for a long time. It is in winter that house flowers can suffer from excessive watering - in the dark season, photosynthesis is reduced, growth is slowed down, and we, struggling with dryness, continue to water them abundantly, as in summer.

    External manifestations

    A sluggish plant with moist soil in a pot. Do not allow irregular watering, when the plant is either dried out or flooded.

    How to help plants?

    We water the plant only when the top layer of soil looks dry - no matter how much time has passed since the previous watering: one day or two weeks. To do this, we often evaluate the moisture content of the soil by touch. Without doing this, you cannot water! If the soil is too dry (typical of peaty soil), it is better to soak the plant: completely immerse the pot in water and let it sit until the release of air bubbles stops.

    Overwinter relatively well in indoor conditions

    Aglaonema , aloe , anthurium , aspidistra,

    Indoor flowers

    1165

    08.09.15 18:43

    For most plants, autumn is the most difficult, one might say critical, period. Flower growth is gradually slowing down as conditions deteriorate environment. The gradually weakening specimen prepares for a long period of rest. Features of caring for indoor plants in the fall are aimed at preventing the death of the root system and drying out of leaves and stems.

    Reducing daylight hours and connecting heating devices is a serious stress for any representative flora, so even the strongest specimens gradually begin to wither, frightening their owners.

    Features of caring for indoor plants in autumn - optimal conditions

    Lighting

    For representatives of the flora, sunbathing is very important, the morning soft sun is especially useful. In this period the best place for the pot - the window sill and the area closest to it. A south-east window is considered ideal; it provides abundant morning lighting and soft daytime diffused light. Eastern and southern window sills are also good, but with northern windowsills, additional artificial light is required. The leaves of the plant should not touch the window panes; this is the surest way to catch a cold.

    A decrease in daylight hours is a signal to reduce the frequency and abundance of watering. The water should not be cold, and you should not overuse spraying. When forming on the surface of the soil or edges of the pot white plaque, it is necessary to increase the softness of the water by settling it.

    Temperature

    The indicators should be lowered gradually; a large difference between day and night figures is unacceptable. If necessary, you can use cork or foam stands, they will protect root system from hypothermia.

    Ventilation

    Fresh air is necessary for all living beings, including plants. While airing, the pots should be moved to another room or covered with protective covers.

    Features of caring for indoor plants in the fall - simple and accessible tricks:

    • In the autumn, it is advisable to move all the plants to the loggia and arrange them there winter Garden. This will ensure quality and complete care all green spaces at once, solving the issue of lighting, fresh air and optimal temperature.
    • If you have to be content with a window sill, you need to choose a surface that completely covers the radiator. If necessary, you can even use covers to protect the pots from dry, hot air.
    • A thick blanket placed over the radiator or a damp towel can also save you from the intense heat of the batteries.
    • It is worth considering that turning on the heating is not a signal to increase watering; quite the contrary, such a step can delay the onset of the rest stage.
    • Dry air must be humidified. For this purpose, the already mentioned wet towels or wide trays with wet peat or water are used.
    • You can group plants into one large pot. In a team it is easier for them to survive difficult conditions.

    Good afternoon, dear readers!

    Geranium (peralgonia) is a widespread indoor plant. Since ancient times, our grandmothers have grown it. It is actively blooming whole year and pleases us with their beautiful bright hats a wide variety of colors. I really like it when there is a row of pots of geraniums on the windowsill, such beauty!

    Geranium. Reproduction

    You can grow geranium from seeds, but I prefer cuttings, which are carried out from mid-February to early March.

    At this time, it is already necessary to prune geraniums. After all, geranium is light-loving, but in winter there is little light, and the plant stretches out and becomes not very beautiful. In geraniums, you need to trim the bare shoots to the height you need (but not quite to the stump, of course), new branches will come from them.

    Or you can renew geraniums every year by replanting them from new cuttings, as our great-grandmothers did in the old days.

    Suitable for propagation of geraniums apical cuttings approximately 7 cm long with three to five leaves.

  • We cut the cuttings, making an oblique cut under the bud.
  • We tear off the bottom pair of leaves.
  • Dry the cut and the place where the leaves are broken for 2-3 hours so that the cut becomes covered with a film.
  • Plant immediately in prepared pots with soil.
  • Water lightly.
  • To form a lush bush, we pinch the apical bud.
  • We put it in a bright place, but not in the sun!
  • Many people simply cut the cuttings and put them in water, I advise you to put the tablets in a jar of water activated carbon so that there is no rotting. Roots form very quickly. Then they are planted in pots.

    You need to take a small pot. Geraniums don’t need a lot of soil. The faster the roots entwine a clod of earth, the faster the plant will bloom, and the smaller the pot, the more abundant the flowering will be. In large pots, the plant may not bloom at all, it doesn’t need it - life is already good, why bother? You can even plant several cuttings in one pot.

    During the rooting process, the lower leaves may turn yellow - tear them off when a couple of new leaves appear.

    To form a beautiful lush bush, pinch the top on the 8-10th leaf, the side shoots on the 6-8th and constantly turn the pot so that the bush is even.

    And recently I heard at the market from one grandmother who was selling geraniums that during flowering the pot no longer needs to be turned, otherwise flowering may stop.

    In principle, I don’t turn, but I didn’t know that it was necessary. And I think I need to tell you.

    Water as the soil dries, but don’t over-water it.

    In June-July, if necessary, you can also make cuttings, if you did not do this in March or if the bush grows unsightly.

    How to care for geraniums

    Caring for geranium is not difficult, this plant is not whimsical, you just need to know what geranium likes:

    • Sun (but tolerates light shade). She feels good on south and east windows
    • Warm (but will survive very light autumn frosts)
    • Not frequent, but abundant watering. Geranium tolerates dry soil more easily than excess moisture, which can cause rot.
    • Good drainage in the pot - required condition, following from the previous rule
    • Moderately fertile, even poor soil (otherwise there will be a lot of greenery, but few flowers)
    • Regular fertilizing, which begins in the spring and continues to be applied once every two weeks until late autumn. For active growth, nitrogen fertilizers are used, then they are replaced with potassium and phosphorus, necessary for abundant flowering.
    • Removing faded inflorescences to continue flowering.

    A very good feeding is Iodine water: Dissolve 1 drop of iodine in 1 liter of water and pour 50 ml of this composition carefully over the walls of the pot. Don't overdo it so you don't burn the roots!

    After such watering, the geranium blooms continuously and gorgeously!

    Good fertilizers can be prepared from a variety of home remedies.

    Possible problems

    If The leaves are turning yellow, the reasons may be as follows:

    • If only the edges of the leaves dry out, the cause is lack of moisture.
    • If the leaves are limp or rotting, the reason is due to excess moisture.

    In both cases, leaves may fall off.

    Stem exposure, lower leaves fall off - lack of light.

    Geranium in the garden

    In summer, geranium loves to live in the fresh air - take it out onto the balcony or into the garden, and plant it well in the ground when the threat of night frosts has passed.

    At first, having experienced the stress associated with a change of place, the geranium will hurt, its leaves may turn yellow and fall off. But then it will definitely delight you with abundant flowering.

    It blooms amazingly outside, and the bush grows wildly like never before at home!

    I plant geraniums in flower beds, I love when red and white geraniums are side by side. Geraniums look very beautiful next to petunia. A friend sent me photos of flower beds in Germany and Austria; flower beds with petunia and geraniums are widely practiced there.

    In the sun, sometimes the leaves of a flower turn pink - this is a normal phenomenon, like a “tan”, the plant is no better or worse from this.

    Geranium can withstand any temperature, and in hot summers it blooms well in the sun, but it prefers cool weather. In autumn, at 10-12 degrees, she “goes crazy” from this temperature!

    Check out tips from http://ogorodtv. ru on growing geraniums in the garden or at the dacha.

    You can keep geraniums outside until frost begins, until the temperature drops to 2-5 degrees Celsius. Then they will need to be trimmed, transplanted into pots and placed in a cool place (10-12 degrees) for winter hibernation or, gradually accustoming them to higher temperatures, brought into a room where they will continue to bloom.

    It is important to gradually accustom the plant to higher temperatures, and in general, in my experience, when geraniums return home from the street, they get very sick. Therefore, I usually specially grow plants for seedlings outside from cuttings, which I cut in January-February, and then remove them from the container and plant them in the ground. In this case, the main plant remains at home, sometimes in good weather I take him outside to breathe. And also in the fall, if necessary, I take cuttings from street flowers and plant them at home.

    Geranium is known to purify indoor air and is used to treat many ailments. I wrote a separate article about recipes for treating geraniums at home. I invite you to read it!

    These are the simple secrets for growing geraniums.

    You might be interested in this:

    • What flowers should you keep at home?
    • Why do spathiphyllum leaves dry or turn yellow?
    • Hot shower for caring for indoor plants
    • Home flower Gloxinia. Planting and care
    • Petunia in a flowerpot

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    Indoor flower JASMINE care at home PHOTO

    Introducing the flower indoor jasmine(sambac, polyanthus) and home care: watering, fertilizing, pruning, propagation, replanting, pests and diseases.

    We consider in detail the growing conditions: lighting, temperature, air humidity and soil, as well as possible problems when caring for the plant.

    Indoor jasmine: growing conditions

    • 1 Indoor jasmine: growing conditions
    • 2 Caring for indoor jasmine: watering, fertilizing, pruning, replanting
      • 2.1 How to properly water indoor jasmine?
      • 2.2 Feeding and fertilizers
      • 2.3 How and when to prune jasmine?
      • 2.4 Transfer
    • 3 Propagation of indoor jasmine
    • 4 Pests and diseases
    • 5 Possible problems during cultivation

    The following species are most often grown at home: sambac (Indian), holoflowered, multiflowered (polyanthus), medicinal (large-flowered).

    According to gardeners, a plant, even with proper care, can die for no apparent reason. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure comfortable conditions for cultivation, follow the care recommendations indoor jasmine and closely monitor his condition.

    Jasmine multiflorum ("Polyanthus")

    LIGHTING

    The plant loves a lot of diffused sunlight. The eastern or western side is optimal for growing a flower; on such a window it can tolerate direct sunlight in summer, in most cases, without shading.

    There will be little light on the northern windows, which will lead to a decrease in the decorativeness of the plant and a lack of flowering. On the south window it is necessary to move it to a more shady place or deeper into the room.

    In extreme situations, cover the jasmine with a cloth to prevent direct sunlight, especially during the peak summer heat. But you need to remember that he does not like shading and artificial lighting.

    • In winter, grandiflora and polyanthus jasmine remain dormant and do not need illumination from artificial light sources.
    • Jasmine sambac, on the contrary, needs ten hours to bloom in winter. daylight hours, so additionally illuminate it with phytolamps.

    TEMPERATURE

    In spring and summer, maintain 18-25 °C + regular ventilation is also necessary so that hot air does not stagnate in the room, but there should be no drafts.

    • If you wish, you can display the flower on a balcony or loggia in the summer, just protect the flower from the midday sun. Also be aware that temperature drops below 15°C in spring and summer can cause harm.

    In winter (dormant period), multi-flowered (polyanthus) and large-flowered jasmine should be moved to a cool place, optimal temperature– 10-12 °C. If it is warmer, then in spring and summer they will not bloom or will bloom little and weakly.

    If it is not possible to lower the room temperature or place it in a cool place, then spray more often to increase air humidity.

    Jasmine sambac does not need a cold winter, keep it warm at 18-23 °C.

    The lower limit of permissible temperature is 8 °C, regardless of the time of year, otherwise the flower may die.

    Jasmine sambac - bloom

    AIR HUMIDITY

    In caring for jasmine, maintaining high air humidity is an important factor. Low humidity depresses the plant, making it more vulnerable to diseases and pests, and also disrupts flowering.

    • To increase air humidity, it is more effective to combine simultaneously various ways. The main method of increasing air humidity is spraying.

    In spring and summer, spray indoor jasmine every 1-2 days with soft water, and if it is very hot and dry, then you can do it in the morning and evening.

    In winter, the air is often dry due to operating heating devices, and the temperature is higher than necessary - spray once every 2-4 days. During flowering, you need to be very careful so that drops of water do not fall on the flowers; cover them with a cloth or hand.

    In addition to spraying, use air humidifiers or traditional methods. Place a wet towel on the radiator, place a container of water near the pot or place the pot on a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay.

    Attention! In the case of a cool winter, the flower cannot be sprayed, nor can the humidity be increased by any other means.

    THE SOIL

    Jasmine needs loose and well-drained soil with a neutral (sambac) or slightly acidic reaction, pH - 5.5-6.5 (large-flowered, multi-flowered (polyantum)). At the bottom of the pot there must be a 3-5 cm layer of drainage, depending on its volume.

    • Composition of soil mixture for self-preparation: turf soil, leaf soil, sand, peat – 1:1:1:1.

    It is preferable to plant jasmine sambac in a ready-made universal substrate for roses or begonias, and for other species these soil mixtures must be supplemented with 1/3 of the soil for azaleas.

    Caring for indoor jasmine: watering, fertilizing, pruning, replanting

    The flower needs proper watering, fertilizing, pruning and replanting. We will talk about these aspects of flower care further.

    How to properly water indoor jasmine?
  • In spring and summer, water the flower as soon as the top layer of soil 1-2 cm deep dries out, approximately every 2-4 days. At that time ( active growth And heat) It is important to maintain the substrate in a slightly moist state at all times, without stagnation of water and drying out.
  • Starting in September, the need for moisture decreases and it is necessary to gradually reduce the frequency of watering. In autumn and winter, an excess of water is extremely undesirable, especially during cold wintering.
    Water indoor jasmine only after the middle layer of the substrate begins to dry out, approximately once every 4-7 days.
  • If the room is very hot and dry, then watering more often is not recommended, but it is necessary to spray the plant to increase the air humidity so that it can bloom.

    General principle: the higher the temperature and lower the humidity, the more often you need to water.

    Water for watering a flower should be soft, settled and slightly warmer than room temperature.

    Every 2-4th watering (1-3 times a month), it is advisable to slightly acidify the water to maintain optimal soil acidity. Add a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar per liter of water.

    In details: « WHAT WATER IS BETTER TO WATER INDOORS FLOWERS?».

    Feeding and fertilizers

    For beautiful flowering For good development, the plant needs additional nutrients.

    Jasmines, blooming in spring and in summer you need to feed from April to August. Jasmine sambac from April until the end of flowering.

    Every 8-12 days, feed the flower with liquid fertilizer for flowering indoor plants.

  • « TYPES OF FERTILIZERS FOR HOUSE FLOWERS».
  • « HOMEMADE NATURAL FERTILIZERS – TOP 20!».
  • How and when to prune jasmine?

    The plant responds well to formative pruning; moreover, regular pruning is necessary to curb growth and abundant flowering. Pruning stimulates the growth of new side shoots on which flowers appear.

    In early to mid-March (before the growing season begins), trim all shoots by approximately 40-60% of their length. Remove dry, elongated, damaged and poorly developed shoots completely.

    For young indoor jasmine (shoots up to 50-60 cm in length), pinch the tops of the shoots every month from spring to autumn so that they bush better.

    Attention

    • Prune jasmine species that bloom in winter in late fall, when they begin to actively grow.
    • Species that grow vigorously and are capable of growing more than a meter in length per season are recommended to be pruned after flowering and before the start of the growing season.
    • Jasmine sambac is recommended to be pruned 2-3 times a year. To do this, shorten the branches a little so that the crown becomes denser and more decorative.
    Transfer

    Young plants need to be replanted annually using the transshipment method, and starting from 3-4 years of age, replant every 2-3 years as they grow.

    It is better to replant indoor jasmine in the spring after the end of flowering (March) and pruning of the flower. After transplanting, spray the plant high humidity will help you cope with stress more easily.

    The new pot should not exceed the size of the previous one by more than 2-3 cm, otherwise there is a high probability of deterioration in the properties of the soil mixture and disruption of flower development. He likes the substrate to be almost entirely filled with roots.

    See also: « HOW TO CORRECTLY TRANSPLANT HOUSE PLANTS?»

    How to make a support and tie a flower?

    To grow jasmine, you need to make a support in the form of an arc of wire or plastic. Then tilt the stem to one side of the arc and carefully wrap it around it. To secure the flower, tie the stem and support with twine.

    Support option for jasmine

    Propagation of indoor jasmine

    The plant can be propagated by cuttings and layering. Each method has its own advantages.

    Cuttings

    The most productive method, but at the same time labor-intensive and requiring certain skills. Propagation of jasmine by cuttings is more suitable for experienced flower growers or for those who need a large number of copies.

    It is convenient to propagate indoor jasmine by cuttings in the spring after pruning, or from April to July.

  • In spring, take a woody, mature, powerful shoot. Cut its top with 2-3 internodes, length - 10-14 cm, bottom cut at an acute angle. For summer cuttings, take young green shoots.
  • Plant the cuttings in a moist soil mixture (peat, sand - 1:1 or just sand) 1.5-2 cm deep and cover with film or glass. You can also place the cuttings in a container with water, and after the roots form, plant them in a nutrient substrate.
  • Spray and ventilate the cuttings daily. After 30-40 days, roots usually form. Place the plants in separate cups (3-5 cm in diameter), soil mixture (leaf soil (peat), sand - 3:1) and place in a bright place without direct sunlight.
  • Mist the plants daily to keep the substrate slightly moist at all times. When the roots have covered the entire soil mixture, transplant the plants into a pot (8-10 cm in diameter). Then replant the flower annually until 3-4 years of age.
  • Rules and tips

    • Before planting in soil mixture or water, it is advisable to treat the cuttings with a growth stimulator (Kornevin and others). This will significantly increase its rooting ability.
    • Optimal conditions for rooting: high air humidity and air temperature – 20-24 °C.

    Rooted cuttings of Jasmine Sambac

    Layerings

    Convenient and easy way of reproduction. Perfect option if you need a small number of young flowers.

  • In April - May (you can also do it in summer), make a small cut on the outermost shoot, dig it into a small hole and sprinkle it with soil on top.
  • Water the layering area regularly; when the young shoots begin to grow (autumn, spring), separate the layering from the mother plant and plant it in a separate pot.
  • For more details, see here: “VEGETATIVE PROPRODUCTION OF HOUSEPLANTS - REVIEW”

    Pests and diseases

    Jasmine is affected by pests and diseases, especially often with improper care. For prevention, it is extremely important to regularly inspect the plant.

    The most common pests: Whitefly, weevil, Mealybug , Spider mite, Aphid.

    See also: “HOW TO FIGHT HOUSEPLANT PESTS?»

    Possible problems during cultivation

    • The tips of leaves and young shoots dry out and turn yellow - the soil is dry or there is insufficient air humidity.
    • Leaves curl and dry out due to dry air and high temperatures. Spray and water your jasmine more often.
    • Gradual drying of shoots - excessively alkaline soil due to watering with inappropriate water, lack of watering with acidified water, or incorrectly selected soil mixture.
    • Brown spots on the leaves are burns from direct sunlight.
    • The plant may shed its leaves due to drafts, lack or excess of moisture in the soil, lack of sunlight or excessively dry air.
    • If the flower sheds its leaves, fades and has an unhealthy appearance due to dry air, then place it under a hood after spraying. Ventilate and spray the plant every day, and when it starts to look better (5-15 days), remove the cover.

    Beneficial features

    Jasmine not only has a gorgeous appearance, but also brings benefits to the home. Its flowers, thanks to their enchanting aroma, calm the nervous system, reduce irritability and generally improve a person’s well-being.

    Attention

    If your sleep has worsened or unpleasant sensations have appeared, then it is better to move the flower to another room.

    ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

    1. CORRECT PLANTING AND CARE OF GARDEN JASMINE IN THE OPEN GROUND!

    2. MOUBUSHNIK: REPRODUCTION BY CUTTINGS, LAYINGS AND OTHER METHODS!

    3. THE BEST VARIETIES OF MOUNT BUSH: DESCRIPTIONS, NAMES AND PHOTOS!

    We wish you easy care for indoor jasmine and a great mood!

    Fertilizers for indoor flowers at home: how to fertilize flowers

    Beginning gardeners who are just gaining experience in growing potted plants are often confused by the variety of modern and traditional fertilizers.

    There are these types of fertilizers:

    • Mineral;
    • Organic;
    • Organic-mineral;
    • Microfertilizers;
    • Bacterial.

    The basis that all mineral and organic fertilizers- this is nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium. Every plant needs these components. At different times, the same indoor crop uses different amounts of each nutrient.

    Nitrogen fertilizers are:

    • Ammoniacal;
    • Ammonium;
    • Nitrate;
    • Amide;
    • Ammonium-nitrate.

    The first type is most widespread. The superiority of ammonia fertilizers is their cheapness and high level concentrations, and the increase in soil acidity caused by them is removed with the help of lime.

    Peculiarity nitrogen fertilizers easy to dissolve in water and quickly reach the roots of the crop. Ammonium nitrate can be used on all types of soils, but it is most necessary on podzolic soils. It is recommended to use it together with watering the plant. If the flower has enough phosphorus and potassium, then the effectiveness of nitrogen fertilizing will be much higher.

    Potassium fertilizer also has a beneficial effect on the development of potted crops, and in combination with phosphate fertilizers is used to achieve abundant flowering. This type of feeding is suitable for ornamental flowering plants.

    Complex fertilizer for indoor flowers on a mineral basis, is considered a first aid for many potted crops. They are produced in liquid and granule form, and there are also sticks, capsules, and tablets.

    Liquid fertilizer is practical and easy to use. It is simply diluted with water according to the instructions and used. The liquid form of fertilizing is a concentrate of salts; it allows the plant roots to immediately absorb useful components. This food can be purchased both for a specific type of plant and universal. There are liquid fertilizers for orchids, succulents or palm trees.

    Using this fertilizer, a solution is prepared for foliar spraying. This type of feeding will saturate the plant with useful substances through its sheet plates. They will absorb the required amount of nutrients, and the excess will not harm the plant.

    Foliar fertilizer cannot replace the nutrition of the plant through the root system, but is only an additional technique during the period of intensive growing season.

    TO organic fertilizers relate:

    • Humus;
    • Compost;
    • Bird droppings;
    • Mullein;
    • Green fertilizers;
    • Peat;
    • Do-it-yourself fertilizers.

    The peculiarity of organic matter is that it improves the structure of the soil, has a positive effect on its physical characteristics, and also increases its air and water permeability. All this makes the soil more fertile. This is an excellent source of nutrition for plants, since in addition to the main components (NPK), organic matter also contains a lot of microelements, and the substances are in an easily accessible form.

    Depending on the condition of the soil in which it grows indoor flower, provide organic fertilizers. The poorer the soil in the pot, the more organic matter you need to add to it when planting.

    Microfertilizers- these are substances containing microelements, after adding them to the soil, plants can easily “take” these nutritional components from there. Microfertilizers exist both with a specific active ingredient and complex ones. In the second case, they are able to saturate flowers with essential microelements. The only caveat: you must adhere to the standards specified in the instructions.

    Bacterial fertilizers are called plant nutrition products that contain special microorganisms. They enhance metabolism and nutrition of the plant as a whole. This happens due to bacteria transporting nutrients to their root system.

    The role of fertilizers and their importance

    As already noted, the main components of most plant nutrition products are Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

    Nitrogen necessary during intensive growing season, it is responsible for the formation of fruits. This is a building material for the above-ground part of a potted plant. This element is irreplaceable. Plants need it most during the period that begins with the emergence of seedlings and before the formation of flowers. When nitrogen is present in the soil, it is consumed by flowers, broken down into ammonium and nitrates.

    Fertilizing indoor flowers with saltpeter is the most common today. This food is effective: quickly eliminated external factors nitrogen deficiency, such as slow growth of green parts of the plant, and light green color of leaves, sometimes with yellowness. This unhealthy coloring occurs due to disruption of photosynthesis processes.

    Phosphorus is an obligatory component during the seed pecking period. This component also takes part in the process of photosynthesis and enhances plant resistance against various diseases.

    Potassium- an element responsible for the quality of ripened fruits, and also, together with phosphorus, it increases resistance to plant diseases. It enhances the effect of other substances and helps the flower develop properly. It helps retain moisture in the soil, which makes plants more easily tolerant of drought, frost, and others. unfavourable conditions. In order for plants to prepare for the dormant period, potassium is needed.

    In addition to these macroelements, indoor flowers also need microelements in balanced quantities.

    The choice of fertilizers depending on the season

    When spring comes, all plants become active. Indoor flowers are no exception. Spring is the time of year when we should begin to fertilize indoor flowers so that they properly begin their development after a period of dormancy and delight us with intense flowering.

    With the onset of March, the number of sunny days, and indoor plants begin their growing season. This is the best time to transplant them, take cuttings, or grow them from seeds. When the owner of a potted crop decides that the plant does not need to replace the soil, it must be fed.

    All fertilizing is carried out From March to September, once every half month. Then, starting in mid-October and in the following months, rest time begins for the plants. Some potted crops are an exception. Plants, blooming in autumn and in winter:

    • Poinsettia;
    • Cyclamen;
    • Azalea;
    • Decembrist;
    • Hippeastrum.

    Beginning flower growers often wonder: what to fertilize in winter? indoor crops. When plants are in a dormant period, there is no need to feed them at this time.. Fertilizers are relevant Only the above colors, as they develop and flower.

    The most popular home fertilizers

    Fortunately, you can organize plant nutrition not only with ready-made fertilizers purchased in specialized stores, but flower growers today also use natural fertilizers prepared in the kitchen. For this purpose, various food waste and some medications are used.

    The most commonly used household fertilizers are Sugar, wood ash, banana peels, egg shells, yeast.

    Each substance has certain characteristics and rules of use. Experts evaluate these fertilizers ambiguously; sometimes there are disputes about the effectiveness of a particular product.

    Their reviews may be exactly the opposite. Therefore, when using a certain remedy, you need to be attentive to your green pet and notice changes in the state of its development.

    Banana peel fertilizer

    After eating a banana, its peel is washed and dried. Then they are ground in a coffee grinder to obtain a powder. There are two options for fertilizing plants with banana peels. The first is that the crushed shell of this fruit is mixed with the substrate when planting a flower in a ratio of 1:10. The second option is when banana peel powder is spread on the surface of the soil as mulch, and then with each watering, the plant receives a certain amount of nutrients.

    How often to fertilize? Once every month.

    From eggshell

    Flower growers often note that the most good fertilizer for indoor flowers, these are egg shells. It contains a whole storehouse of microelements. Among them are calcium, iron, zinc, silicon, magnesium and others. This fertilizing also reduces the acidity of the soil mixture.

    Prepare this food for indoor flowers as follows:

  • The shells are washed in running water.
  • Remove the inner film from it and grind it.
  • Fill with water and leave for 3 days.
  • The liquid is drained and used for watering potted crops.
  • Egg shells can also be used as drainage. To do this, before planting the plant, it is laid out on the bottom of the container, then the substrate is poured and the flower is planted.

    Succinic acid as a fertilizer for indoor flowers

    Succinic acid is An effective growth stimulator. To achieve a positive result, you need to dilute 1 g of powder in half a bucket of water or 1 tablet per 1 liter of water at a comfortable temperature. This solution can be used to water the substrate, or it can be sprayed. According to gardeners, after a week more active growth begins and flowering intensifies.

    Succinic acid helps in the absorption of nutrients and improves plant immunity. It is not a supplement, it is only an additive. Seeds are soaked with it, cuttings are rooted, watered and sprayed.

    Tea party

    Some indoor flower lovers pamper their “green friends” by brewing tea. But if you sprinkle it on top, then black flies may appear. It is better if, when replanting a plant, place a tea bag on the bottom. The potted crop should get maximum benefit from this.

    Coffee as fertilizer for indoor flowers

    Treating the flower to coffee waste is also popular. You need to brew and drink the coffee, and pour the remaining grounds into the soil for the plant. Then it is mixed with the top layer of soil.

    After applying such fertilizer, the soil structure improves, water and air permeability increases, it is saturated with nitrogen and microelements.

    But not all potted plants like this “treat”. It can only be applied to plants growing on acidic soils. Among potted plants this Azalea, fuchsia, fern, anthurium.

    Castor oil as a fertilizer

    There is one more Flowering stimulator, which is often used to activate the formation of buds and the lush blooming of flowers. This is castor oil. Take a teaspoon and pour it into liter jar with water and stir thoroughly. Next, water indoor flowers with this fertilizer.

    Flower growers, when figuring out what a good fertilizer is, often note this product as quite effective.

    Ash

    Wood ash has been used as a plant food for a long time. It contains about 70 different macro and microelements. Almost everything is there - the only exception is nitrogen. The impact of ash on flowers is difficult to overestimate:

  • Nourishes plants.
  • Effectively protects bushes from pests.
  • It is a good remedy against fungal diseases of flowers (after spraying).
  • Disinfects the substrate.
  • To prepare an ash solution, take 1 tbsp. l. products, and diluted in 1 liter of water, and then filtered.

    Wood ash contains many useful substances, not just nitrogen. Therefore, in addition to using this product, you need to know how to fertilize plants with ammonia or urea.

    Yeast as fertilizer

    Potted crops respond very favorably to fertilizing with yeast fertilizer. It is useful due to the content of many nutrients, including amino acids, minerals, protein, and microorganisms for the soil.

    Despite all its advantages, yeast takes potassium from the soil, therefore, experts advise At the same time add ash solution.

    Let's learn how to fertilize indoor flowers with yeast. To do this, take 10 g of dry yeast and dilute it in a liter of water with the addition of 1 tbsp. l. sugar (the liquid should be warm). Then leave for several hours. After this, the contents of the container are diluted again 5 times.

    Other Homemade Fertilizer Recipes

    There are many recipes for plant nutrient mixtures. The ones described above are only a small part of full list fertilizers prepared independently.

    Feeding from onion peel infusion

    If plants lose their attractiveness, then something needs to be done urgently. How can you quickly improve their well-being? To do this, prepare an infusion from onion peels (it’s easy to prepare, and the raw materials are always available).

    The husks are placed in an enamel container and poured with one and a half liters of boiling water. Boil it for up to 7 minutes, then set it aside, leave for 2 hours and filter. You can spray both plants and the soil in which they grow. This procedure will help prevent disinfection. Also, the decoction of onion wrappers contains many useful substances, so in addition to disinfection, it acts as a complete fertilizer.

    How often should I fertilize potted crops with this decoction? The best way to do this is Once every 2 months, but you can do it a little more often.

    Onion broth cannot be stored, therefore, it is necessary to prepare fresh each time.

    Compote of orange peels as fertilizer

    Most people love to enjoy citrus fruits. The crusts are usually not used, and they go into the trash bin. But they can benefit plants, in particular indoor plants.

    Therefore, they should be placed in a 1-liter jar and filled to the top with boiling water. After cooling, you need to dilute this decoction again.

    You can use either fresh or dried orange peels. Houseplants really like this decoction: they get sick less often and become more resistant to pests.

    Plants love sugar too

    All potted crops like feeding with sugar.

    It can be sprinkled on top of the soil mixture, or diluted in the form of liquid fertilizer. To prepare a sugar solution, take a teaspoon of sugar per 200 ml of water. The frequency of such nutrition sessions is 1 per week. You can do this no more than 3 times in a row, otherwise this fertilizing can harm the plants.

    Potassium permanganate as a fertilizer

    The role of a light solution of potassium permanganate applied to the soil as a top dressing is impressive:

    • Its chemical formula contains potassium, which is so necessary for plants;
    • It slightly acidifies the soil, so it is used for plants that love high acidity;
    • Disinfects the substrate in which the flower grows, and thereby prevents various diseases.

    Answers to the question of how to properly apply potassium permanganate fertilizer differ among different experts. They all unanimously claim that it should be a light, unsaturated pink solution, but everyone has their own frequency of watering. Some cultivate the soil once every six months, others more often.

    Rules for diluting potassium permanganate: for this you need transparent dishes to visually observe the process. Should be poured warm water, because it accelerates dissolution.

    It is necessary to thoroughly mix the potassium permanganate until it is completely diluted - otherwise you can burn the roots of the plant.

    Feeding plants with manure

    Manure is an organic fertilizer, and few people do not know how to fertilize indoor flowers with manure. But it should still be clarified that it is added when replanting a potted crop, and well-ripened compost can be used to mulch the top layer of the soil mixture. Liquid organic fertilizers are given when watering plants.

    Zircon is an excellent growth stimulator

    The preparation zircon promotes at the cellular level more intensive development flower bushes. Effect of the product on plant development:

  • He takes part in the development of the roots and green part of the crop.
  • Improves rooting of cuttings.
  • It makes it easier to tolerate not only a deficit of moisture, heat and light, but also their excess.
  • Raises the level of plant resistance against diseases and pathogenic microflora.
  • Dilute it according to the instructions (4 drops per 1 liter of water), and add another (0.2 mg) to the water. citric acid, since zircon gives an alkaline reaction. Spray the flower in the dark so that this product is not destroyed in the light.

    To have an effect, it must be used in parallel with organic or mineral fertilizers. Plants should be treated with zircon using protective equipment: glasses, gloves, overalls. You should not smoke near its use.

    Hydrogen peroxide as a top dressing

    This product works in floriculture to enrich the roots with oxygen. We’ll look at how to fertilize indoor flowers with hydrogen peroxide and how it works below.

    To determine the dosage, you need to know its purpose of use. 3% drug is used:

  • To improve the health of a substrate that has not been replaced for a long time, give 3 ml of the product per 1 liter of water.
  • For watering - up to 10 drops per liter of liquid.
  • For the purpose of disinfecting planting material - a whole product.
  • For water treatment - for 5 liters of water, 1 ml of peroxide.
  • It perfectly revives flooded crops: it stops the rotting of the root system. As well as prophylactic, works on old soils.

    Doses and timing

    What is the best way to fertilize the following indoor plants, and how many ml of fertilizer to give for each of the listed indoor flowers:

    Plant names Fertilizer Deadlines Doses
    Violet Mister Color - Saintpaulia Every 14 days of the growing season For 2 liters of liquid 1 cap of product
    Fern Liquid organic fertilizers From May to September Compared to the instructions, reduce the dosage by 2 times
    Lemon Universal complex mixtures From the beginning of March to October once every 3 weeks According to instructions
    Pelargonium Ready-made fertilizers for flowering plants The entire growing season, excluding dormancy According to instructions
    Begonia Balanced mineral fertilizer Fertilize when the flower reaches a height of 10 cm According to instructions
    Potted pepper Complex mineral nutrition As needed According to instructions
    Pomegranate Complex mineral fertilizers IN growing season 2 times a month According to instructions
    Orchids Mister Orchid Flower During the growing season 1 cap per liter of liquid
    Indoor roses Complete mineral supplement Once every half month during the growing season According to instructions

    The existence of so many different fertilizers and growth stimulants can be confusing for novice gardeners. But with experience, properly caring for your green friends, including feeding, will not be difficult. The abundance of recipes in this article can be confusing - feel free to choose one or two you like and experiment - if the dosages are observed, there will be no harm, and the benefits may be obvious.

    Fertilizers from improvised means - on video

    A visual overview from the blog “Olga Cozy Corner” about various fertilizers that can be made from products that any housewife has in her kitchen.


    Very soon the golden landscape outside the window will be replaced by dullness and grayness. Deep autumn will come. Indoor flowers in the fall will begin to suffer from lack of light and sudden fluctuation temperature. Our article today is about how to help plants adapt.

    Protection from cold in autumn-winter period

    flower pots It is better to place it on low stands. And here cold-resistant plants should be placed closer to the glass. Such plants include: geranium, Washingtonia palm, cyclamen.

    - You can build frost protection for plants with your own hands. Take bubble wrap or plastic wrap and attach it to the bottom of the frame (at a height of 25-30 cm). Fold the rest of the film under the window sill.

    — it is also recommended to raise potted plants standing in close proximity to the balcony.

    Attention! To control the temperature, place a thermometer on the windowsill.

    How to protect indoor flowers in autumn from lack of light

    — for additional lighting, you can attach compact lamps to frames.

    — no need to leave the lights on 24 hours a day! Because of this, the physiological rhythm of the plant will be disrupted.

    — do not forget about the balance between room temperature and light level. The length of the light period should be 10 – 12 hours.

    Remember! Plants during the dormant period do not need feeding! For plants that overwinter in warm conditions with good lighting, fertilizer is applied in ½ part indicated on the label.

    How to protect indoor flowers from spider mites in the fall

    Dry air from heat sources and low humidity may cause the appearance spider mite. This article is written about methods of dealing with it.